Gate Slider foundation, also auto remote supplier

cheeryble · May 25, 2018

Hi we now have a wall nearly all the way round our plot at the end of previously grandma's lot.

Approached by a 60m black clinker track, the space for the gate is about 6m.

If things work out we will build a house inside.

I think this space will have a door-gate entry one side, guess this will take up a metre plus the width of a column for one side of the door.

So there'll be 5m or less for the sliding gate.

Note to self: Make sure cement trucks etc can get through space and make a right turn to the site area (there's a small tree straight on to avoid)

Anyway I had been thinking the best would be to put the gate in at a later stage, but missus is talking of doing it soon.

One good thing about this is I have taken in a dog and he can't be let loose with a busy country road bend outside grandma's and no wall or gate to her's.

There was another accident outside just last night......they can't hold the bend and a loose dog could be deadly.

So apparently there's a local gate guy (we're half hour south of CM).

Thing is if the gate and slider goes in before house the foundation for the slider needs to be strong enough for loaded trucks etc.

There may also be an element of side impact on the top edge of this buried beam as well as weight bearing.

I could take a wild guess at whats needed in the way of reinforced concrete for this, but wonder at TV members' experience.

Secondly, trying to be very budget oriented but wonder about motorised gate. The local guy MAY be able to supply and fit but wonder if any CMers can recommend anywhere else I can compare prices/qualities etc.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on these two items.

ps the photo is from INSIDE the building plot.

grollies · May 25, 2018

Concrete pad on drive entrance 4in thick, reinforced with wire mesh will be plenty even for cement trucks. 5m wide is plenty.

Make the concrete pad edges thicker at say 8in to act as a mini foundation.

Don't know about the rest.

Our drive in.

r136dg · May 26, 2018

I just put our opener in a few days ago.

Make sure the base of your gate is proportionate to the height your driveway will be. Our gate's 4 meters & no problem for redi-mix trucks turning in. Hold off on the concrete base for the opener till your gate's in & you have the opener in hand. You'll have to set the height of that base proportionately to where you want the rails on your gate & you'll need the base of opener for location of anchor bolts & electrical.

I don't know any installers.

cheeryble · May 26, 2018

Thanks for replies!

Grollies......surprised at 4 inches.....I was thinking more of a beam under the rail. But it's been OK eh?

We wont be having a concrete entry road I don't think but should think of rebar stubs on the side of any beam under the gate in case this comes sometime.

R136DG.....thanks for that.......your sub rail beam looks about 200mm wide? how deep did you make it? Rebar?

BTW would be interested in good opener prices posters have found anywhere to get an idea.

grollies · May 26, 2018

45 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Thanks for replies!

Grollies......surprised at 4 inches.....I was thinking more of a beam under the rail. But it's been OK eh?

We wont be having a concrete entry road I don't think but should think of rebar stubs on the side of any beam under the gate in case this comes sometime.

R136DG.....thanks for that.......your sub rail beam looks about 200mm wide? how deep did you make it? Rebar?

BTW would be interested in good opener prices posters have found anywhere to get an idea.

Try google for foundation drawings, loads of info. Simple one here.

www.grantsautomation.com.au/index.php?page=65

Fruit Trader · May 26, 2018

If a sliding gate track footing fails and the track starts to sag its a real drama to fix the problem.

My smart ass brother in law went through the drama twice before realising concrete and thin wire mesh were not long term solutions for our busy gate.

We now have a beam (600 x 300 approx) with decent size reinforcing bar which has remained stable for the past 4 years. The rail is properly protected each side similar to a railroad crossing.

We use the Italian DEA brand gate motor because they are reliable and spares parts easily obtained from Bangkok.

http://www.deasystem.com/en/

Gate track sits below road surface

cheeryble · May 26, 2018

47 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

If a sliding gate track footing fails and the track starts to sag its a real drama to fix the problem.

My smart ass brother in law went through the drama twice before realising concrete and thin wire mesh were not long term solutions for our busy gate.

We now have a beam (600 x 300 approx) with decent size reinforcing bar which has remained stable for the past 4 years. The rail is properly protected each side similar to a railroad crossing.

We use the Italian DEA brand gate motor because they are reliable and spares parts easily obtained from Bangkok.

http://www.deasystem.com/en/

Gate track sits below road surface

600mm deep?

Sounds good would take a small tank.

Have to be careful of hump as wife drives elderly low slung Corolla.

Hump may = getting the hump.

Is the hump to minimise water sitting in the rail channel?

Edited May 26, 2018 by cheeryble

Fruit Trader · May 26, 2018

46 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

600mm deep?

Sounds good would take a small tank.

Have to be careful of hump as wife drives elderly low slung Corolla.

Hump may = getting the hump.

Is the hump to minimise water sitting in the rail channel?

Where did you get the 600 deep from? Oh yes sorry I missed out the length and forgot to mark the depth and width so that everyone can play along. Silly me.

The raised concrete forms the channel (30mm high approx) but it could be flush if required. Water drains at each end.

We would of course find any vehicle having problems with the 30mm bump a source of amusement.

The basic idea

Edited May 26, 2018 by Fruit Trader

sirineou · May 27, 2018

Did the same like you.

Several years ago, we purchased the property, build a small house for wife's sister (wonderful girl) , kept one side for our future build, and enclosed the whole area with a two meter tall fence . We let two 5m gates, on opposite ends of the front of the property. One for the sister and one for when we build later on. We had simple sliding gates installed on both openings, a local metal guy made them for as and they were not very expensive to make (don't remember price).

As you know from my thread (thank you for you kind words, support and humor) we finished our house a couple of months ago. The trucks going in and out did tear the base to shreds but no problem. The builder was happy to fix at no extra cost, and as a plus adjust it to the new height after grading and pouring a driveway. Don't bother with a motorised gate yet, wait until you build, (unless you use that gate a lot now) that way it will be wired at the same time as your build,with the proper connections.

You can have a door incorporated in to your gate. the metal fabricator can easily do it. or you can do it on the side but do it,, I didn't do it at the time and I am sorry i did not, I will do it as soon as I am back in Thailand. if you motorise the gate and there is a power loss as it often happens in Thailand, you might not be able to open the gate from the outside.

BEVUP · May 27, 2018

No need for any of that

This is now my second stainless steel gate & never had a problem (Thai spec build )

Once in a village & now in a Moo Baan

I have an atalian job motor over rated for the gate I have now since I brought it from another property that had a 5 mtr x 2 mtr stainless gate - 100,000 bht all up

Plenty of people who will install just ask the gate man ( I got my used motor installed for 7,500 bht )

18,000 bht for an Atalian job fully installed (maybe pending ) new

PS: That channel is a bad idea for 2 reasons

* You will be forever cleaning it out

* Corrosion

This is why they put the stainless steel round bar on the top of the concrete

Edited May 27, 2018 by BEVUP

cheeryble · June 2, 2018

On May 27, 2018 at 8:56 PM, sirineou said:

Did the same like you.

Several years ago, we purchased the property, build a small house for wife's sister (wonderful girl) , kept one side for our future build, and enclosed the whole area with a two meter tall fence . We let two 5m gates, on opposite ends of the front of the property. One for the sister and one for when we build later on. We had simple sliding gates installed on both openings, a local metal guy made them for as and they were not very expensive to make (don't remember price).

As you know from my thread (thank you for you kind words, support and humor) we finished our house a couple of months ago. The trucks going in and out did tear the base to shreds but no problem. The builder was happy to fix at no extra cost, and as a plus adjust it to the new height after grading and pouring a driveway. Don't bother with a motorised gate yet, wait until you build, (unless you use that gate a lot now) that way it will be wired at the same time as your build,with the proper connections.

You can have a door incorporated in to your gate. the metal fabricator can easily do it. or you can do it on the side but do it,, I didn't do it at the time and I am sorry i did not, I will do it as soon as I am back in Thailand. if you motorise the gate and there is a power loss as it often happens in Thailand, you might not be able to open the gate from the outside.

Haha the local gate fabricator coming today.

I told the wife of my concern about trucks going over the base for months.

She disdainfully say the gate guy knows what he's doing.

Well given your experience Sirineou, maybe he does,,,,,,,,,,,and maybe he doesn't. Either way I'm going to be careful about the base and not just leave it to him..

Shame we have to put the gate in but it';ll help to know the dog won't come to harm or go out strutting his stuff.

BTW assuming I start (and maybe finish!) without a motor I've noticed people are always fiddling around trying to get their hands through rails to open padlocks or sliding gate lock or whatever.

Nasty.

Anyone know a nice handy way to do it?

Edited June 2, 2018 by cheeryble

cheeryble · June 2, 2018

On May 27, 2018 at 9:16 PM, BEVUP said:

No need for any of that

This is now my second stainless steel gate & never had a problem (Thai spec build )

Once in a village & now in a Moo Baan

I have an atalian job motor over rated for the gate I have now since I brought it from another property that had a 5 mtr x 2 mtr stainless gate - 100,000 bht all up

Plenty of people who will install just ask the gate man ( I got my used motor installed for 7,500 bht )

18,000 bht for an Atalian job fully installed (maybe pending ) new

PS: That channel is a bad idea for 2 reasons

* You will be forever cleaning it out

* Corrosion

This is why they put the stainless steel round bar on the top of the concrete

Bevup are you talking about embedding a cylindrical rail say halfway into the concrete with wheels on the gate formed to run on it? OR the rail gets fixed right on top? Does that work?

BEVUP · June 2, 2018

35 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Bevup are you talking about embedding a cylindrical rail say halfway into the concrete with wheels on the gate formed to run on it? OR the rail gets fixed right on top? Does that work?

They put 1/2 " ( I think or bigger ) of solid stainless steel & would need lugs welded on the bottom for it to be solid in the concrete (new build )

On a completed drive way i guess they would have to get those lugs in somehow - maybe drill holes ect/ect but would need to put something in the holes so the rail stays perfectly still & also give it strength

After the above is completed then the gate with wheels shall sit on - The wheels should hug 1/3 - 1/2 the rail

cheeryble · June 2, 2018

4 minutes ago, BEVUP said:

They put 1/2 " ( I think or bigger ) of solid stainless steel & would need lugs welded on the bottom for it to be solid in the concrete (new build )

On a completed drive way i guess they would have to get those lugs in somehow - maybe drill holes ect/ect but would need to put something in the holes so the rail stays perfectly still & also give it strength

After the above is completed then the gate with wheels shall sit on - The wheels should hug 1/3 - 1/2 the rail

That sounds good i like the idea of the lugs instead of fittings.

We don't have a completed driveway it's some sort of black clinker and as it's bedded down quite nicely and is 60m long as far as the gate will likely stay that way ? so only a matter of digging out a trench for concrete. Might be an idea to come out a metre either side with say 6inch concrete too with stubs of rebar coming out the sides in case one wanted to extend it.

Is solid rail really necessary? tubular for is very strong. The only thing i would think could dent it is if a bit of clinker got between it and a wheel.....and then the clinker might just break before the rail dented.

r136dg · June 2, 2018

I think what BEVUP is referring to is what was done on my gate (look at pic again). They used .8" OD galvanised tube, 2mm thick. I wasn't present for that project but looks like they stuck small anchor bolts in the crete upside down, left barely exposed for welding to.

Just had 3.5 cubic meters of crete in the larger truck all over it the other day, no problem. If concerned about it a guy could place some 1x lumber.

Only issue is, since my driveway isn't in yet, dirt builds up along the tube, but not enough to require any action.

cheeryble · June 2, 2018

I think what BEVUP is referring to is what was done on my gate (look at pic again). They used .8" OD galvanised tube, 2mm thick. I wasn't present for that project but looks like they stuck small anchor bolts in the crete upside down, left barely exposed for welding to.
Just had 3.5 cubic meters of crete in the larger truck all over it the other day, no problem. If concerned about it a guy could place some 1x lumber.
Only issue is, since my driveway isn't in yet, dirt builds up along the tube, but not enough to require any action.

Got you

Out of interest are your metal uprights mostly closer spaced than in your photo? Looks like a dog could hop right through :)

Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

r136dg · June 2, 2018

53 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

Got you

Out of interest are your metal uprights mostly closer spaced than in your photo? Looks like a dog could hop right through ?

Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

Hard to tell in the pic but there's cement board in there also.

BEVUP · June 2, 2018

3 hours ago, cheeryble said:

Is solid rail really necessary? tubular for is very strong.

I would say solid as something such as only 1/2 " or so would be thin wall & maybe difficult to find ( unless you try & use what they make the fences from )

Edited June 2, 2018 by BEVUP

r136dg · June 3, 2018

Looks good BEVUP. If I guy welded a few ss bolts to the ss rod for anchors, knew exactly where the gate would ride & placed in the concrete drive while wet; that's what I'd do if there's a next time.

@ BEVUP Is that concrete in your pic? Exposed mix from a batch plant? Aggregate worked in & exposed? I'm really interested. Thanks

BEVUP · June 3, 2018

4 hours ago, r136dg said:

Looks good BEVUP. If I guy welded a few ss bolts to the ss rod for anchors, knew exactly where the gate would ride & placed in the concrete drive while wet; that's what I'd do if there's a next time.

@ BEVUP Is that concrete in your pic? Exposed mix from a batch plant? Aggregate worked in & exposed? I'm really interested. Thanks

I can't quite recall

Mine was already installed

But I did sought of see them laying across the road

Warning they do it different here - they actually lay concrete (drive way ), rough finish, then they will top coat with another layer & add dye powder accordingly ( I'm taking a bet they add the stones, as that one you see seems to be finer then around the house )

Not sure if they add a bonding agent

Edited June 3, 2018 by BEVUP

r136dg · June 3, 2018

Thanks, that's what I thought. I've been looking for a batch plant that carries pee rock for exposing. lol

That's really nice work you have there!

grollies · June 3, 2018

24 minutes ago, r136dg said:

Thanks, that's what I thought. I've been looking for a batch plant that carries pee rock for exposing. lol

That's really nice work you have there!

It's called (phonetically) silang and is a decorative way of cheering up a plain concrete slab. Can look really nice.

grollies · June 3, 2018

Bevup's rail is top notch.

If your wife gets the gateman to install it you'll get, like ours, angle iron buried, apex up, in 12" concrete foundation with smooth rebar welded on top for the runner.

It's not a criticism, ours has been in 10 years plus and no cracks despite concrete trucks, 20 tonne wagons carrying stone....

As someone else said, a simple construction like that stops stones getting trapped in the runner.

cheeryble · June 6, 2018

On June 3, 2018 at 7:12 PM, grollies said:

It's called (phonetically) silang and is a decorative way of cheering up a plain concrete slab. Can look really nice.

I've been looking out for the name of that finish Grollies

Would you pronounce it See-Lang? Not Sigh-Lang I presume?

Would they say chaap si lang?

Edited June 6, 2018 by cheeryble

grollies · June 6, 2018

4 hours ago, cheeryble said:

I've been looking out for the name of that finish Grollies

Would you pronounce it See-Lang? Not Sigh-Lang I presume?

Would they say chaap si lang?

google sandwash floor and it's 'sigh lang' according to the wife.