Quality of Thai paint?

[seajae]

bricks and concrete need to be neutralized(acid wash) to stop lime, this is the biggest reason paint blisters/bubbles and peels off.  This was my trade for over 30 years after my apprenticeship,  I brought all my gear with me when I originally moved over as thai painting gear is absolute crap, brushes and rollers/sleaves. extension poles/buckets etc. Same goes with their paint and they do not have the correct materials anyway, on rendered wall you need a block filler, heavy talc  fills the surface after you block it off to remove all the lose bits/sand etc, block filler stops the various surface textures you always see after using the thai garbage, primer is not designed for rendered walls as it its too thin even before watering it down, it is for gyprock. The polyurethane here isnt the best either, I ended up using a 2 pack(satin/semi gloss) on our new woodwork after applying a sealer, good finish and because its a 2 pack its rock hard, did want to stain them but couldnt find any decent stains here. Dulux are one of the more reliable finishes but top of the range, for painted wood work they make an acrylic gloss that isnt too bad, havent found any decent acrylic undercoats thought and the oil ones arent all that flash. They also dont carry binders, had to bring back a can of bullseye 123 acrylic binder/undercoat from Australia, it will go over any surface and bond to it, enables me to paint over all the varnish work with an acrylic gloss. Havent had to water proof a wall here yet but  a product similar to bondcrete would do it, there are several in the hardware stores. Just wish I could find plaster top coat here to fix all the crap plaster joins they do, for some reason Thailand does not have any of the correct products for building, think it has something to do with wanting it done cheaply, for that matter would love to be able to get laser cut treated pine to frame with and build a house properly but guess thats some of the things we give up. You can see the quality of their paint on all the houses turning black, the high humidity combined with paint that is below western standards plus the fact they dont really apply them correctly is the cause, dont water down the paint as that will cause it to break down sooner, it oxidizes and deteriorates too fast as it is

[bankruatsteve]

Just to add a tip for the confused... if the paint smells like paint, it isn't the premium grade.  Just bought some TOT Supershield acrylic paint today for a replacement ceiling project (B1120 for 2.5 g) and I can't smell anything.

[yrag]

On 6/12/2018 at 9:53 AM, The Deerhunter said:

All kinds of paint.  Oil and Water based but not much interested in Polyurethane except to know  if there are dedicated primers for Polyurethane  finishes?

Do what the pros do, Hilton,Home Pro...etc

1.. prep is more important than the Paint

2. Clean walls with a solution of Bleach/water, kills everything and will clean surface effectively...

3. Sand cement wall with large sanding block available at The Watsadu, prime with Jotun cito 09, goes deep into the cement...solvent base..what Home Pro uses out side and inside their buildings...

4. Use a primer...again use a primer even over old work...TWO COATS

5. Use a semi-gloss Paint on the Drywall/Gypsum...easier to clean and more.

6. Toa and i like 4 seasons Paint...SEMI_GLOSS...flat is too porous....

Cito 09 primer is fantastic,,,,i see why the big boys use it...also note that Synotex Roofing Paint is very effective exterior paint...( Synotex ) be American formula....20 years and even longer with cito 09

Note/ Cito 09 is solvent base...goes deep into the substrate...Be a Norwegian Co.

          Synotex Roofing paint is anti-fungal and basically a glue Paint.....also used on tennis courts...Excellent paint 500 to

600 bt every where but lazada cost only 270  ( Be a Paint based out of India..In beginning was a British Paint and also was purchased by Sherwin Williams U.S.)

[yrag]

On 7/8/2018 at 10:14 PM, seajae said:

bricks and concrete need to be neutralized(acid wash) to stop lime, this is the biggest reason paint blisters/bubbles and peels off.  This was my trade for over 30 years after my apprenticeship,  I brought all my gear with me when I originally moved over as thai painting gear is absolute crap, brushes and rollers/sleaves. extension poles/buckets etc. Same goes with their paint and they do not have the correct materials anyway, on rendered wall you need a block filler, heavy talc  fills the surface after you block it off to remove all the lose bits/sand etc, block filler stops the various surface textures you always see after using the thai garbage, primer is not designed for rendered walls as it its too thin even before watering it down, it is for gyprock. The polyurethane here isnt the best either, I ended up using a 2 pack(satin/semi gloss) on our new woodwork after applying a sealer, good finish and because its a 2 pack its rock hard, did want to stain them but couldnt find any decent stains here. Dulux are one of the more reliable finishes but top of the range, for painted wood work they make an acrylic gloss that isnt too bad, havent found any decent acrylic undercoats thought and the oil ones arent all that flash. They also dont carry binders, had to bring back a can of bullseye 123 acrylic binder/undercoat from Australia, it will go over any surface and bond to it, enables me to paint over all the varnish work with an acrylic gloss. Havent had to water proof a wall here yet but  a product similar to bondcrete would do it, there are several in the hardware stores. Just wish I could find plaster top coat here to fix all the crap plaster joins they do, for some reason Thailand does not have any of the correct products for building, think it has something to do with wanting it done cheaply, for that matter would love to be able to get laser cut treated pine to frame with and build a house properly but guess thats some of the things we give up. You can see the quality of their paint on all the houses turning black, the high humidity combined with paint that is below western standards plus the fact they dont really apply them correctly is the cause, dont water down the paint as that will cause it to break down sooner, it oxidizes and deteriorates too fast as it is

All Paints are not Thai/...exp/ Jotun is Norwegian, Berger is Based in India but originated from England then U.S/Sherwin Williams..,Nippon is Japanese..Etc

[mogandave]

Just to add a tip for the confused... if the paint smells like paint, it isn't the premium grade.  Just bought some TOT Supershield acrylic paint today for a replacement ceiling project (B1120 for 2.5 g) and I can't smell anything.

Take the top off...

[kannot]

On 6/12/2018 at 10:07 AM, The Deerhunter said:

I hope you get an answer because is part of what I am experiencing.    Rising damp is a problem here because there is never a membrane of any sort between foundations/floors  and the walls.   ON some of my exterior walls the worst damage is around the bottom edge  of the exterior wall.  I also wonder if some of the floor tile failures we see around the country are caused by upward migration of water or efflorescence from the concrete coming up under the tiles.

 I dont know if this is available in Thailand but is cheap here in the UK a  silicone  cream you can squirt into the mortar layer and provides a LONG lasting damproof membrane, every 10 cm drill wall 12mm diameter about 90% thru the wall.........end of problem 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10-DryZone-DPC-Damp-Proofing-Cream-310ML-Tube-BRAND/1012712743?iid=323313255196&chn=ps 

[kannot]

On 6/29/2018 at 3:03 AM, yrag said:

Anytime you paint.. do two times for complete coverage same with primer...Bleach walls to kill fungus etc...yes i sand my walls with abrasive paper...i bought my sanding block at Thai Watsadu..only place could find a good one pictured below.

Sheesh, electric plate sander does it way faster.

[kannot]

On 9/11/2018 at 3:40 AM, yrag said:

Berger

I think u r confusing the rather crap "BEGER" with "Berger"

[kannot]

On 9/11/2018 at 7:16 PM, mogandave said:

 

Take the top off...

 

and pour over head

[The Deerhunter]

8 hours ago, kannot said:

I think u r confusing the rather crap "BEGER" with "Berger"

 The old radio jingle:    "Berger paints keep on keeeepinngggggggg onnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn"

[yrag]

On 6/12/2018 at 3:35 PM, The Deerhunter said:

I have had Beger highly recommended too,  I have mostly been using JBP which seemed ok but now i am wondering.  Their enamel oil paints for wood apply very nicely and some others are not at all easy to use..  But how they last is the real test.   Thanks.

Jbp worst paint i have ever come across....

[yrag]

On 7/7/2018 at 10:42 AM, hackjam said:

Looks like this-Fungus-could be my problem, a small section of my wall is driving me round the twist, I have sanded it, primed and painted but each time it just flakes. What kind of bleach should I use. Also, can anyone recommend a good quality primer?

Any Bleach get any where even 7-11...Bleach will kill the Fungus and or Algae...Best Primer is Solvent Base...Cito 09 what i use...

 Toa also  has a good one...Let each application dry fully..

[zeekgarcia]

On 9/10/2018 at 4:13 PM, yrag said:

2. Clean walls with a solution of Bleach/water, kills everything and will clean surface effectively...

 

How do you mix your bleach/water solution?  how much bleach to how much water?

Thanks