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Car broke down.

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3 minutes ago, Happy Grumpy said:

This could be it. 

Possibly? I would fill the cooling system with water to prove it is indeed a cooling problem, if it is and it hasn't done any major damage you then need to start flushing out the system and replacing with a coolant, strange that you never got any warnings of overheating.

Good luck.

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  • Author

So, pour the coolant directly into the radiator? Until it rises up to where I can see it?

 

Then pour the rest into the coolant reserve tank?

It stops and you tow it home.? Normal Folks call the Dealer, they tow it to a place full of Mechanics and bits that make em go again.

  • Author
9 minutes ago, Happy Grumpy said:

So, pour the coolant directly into the radiator? Until it rises up to where I can see it?

 

Then pour the rest into the coolant reserve tank?

 

 

This is a very good tutorial on it.

 

 

14 hours ago, Pilotman said:

Bin it and buy a new one, car that is. It's been my long held ambition to go through my life and never open the bonnet (hood to our Yank friends)  of a car.  So far it's worked out for me.  

Deep pockets?

33 minutes ago, Happy Grumpy said:

So, pour the coolant directly into the radiator? Until it rises up to where I can see it?

Then pour the rest into the coolant reserve tank?

At this stage I wouldn't bother putting coolant in, water will suffice - until you have proved that the engine hasn't suffered permanent damage, if it is ok, then you need to flush the system and add coolant.

I think you may be in over your head on this ????

  • Author

Will fill up the radiator with water and let it run. Will see if the fan kicks in almost immediately again. 

 

If okay, will go for a short drive 1 -2 km. If still okay will take it to the mechanic on Monday for them to properly flush the system and fill with coolant. 

1 hour ago, Happy Grumpy said:

So, pour the coolant directly into the radiator? Until it rises up to where I can see it?

 

Then pour the rest into the coolant reserve tank?

I see that you had since this Post, found a video...  

 

the execess fluid, yes, into the 'coolant reserve tank' but don;t forget that it's really an 'expansion' tank! 

Meaning: that the mention of 'what level' to, in the video had one error. 

Decant only up to the Mark 'Low' - which is the level of fluid to be in the Tank, when the engine Temp is Low. The High mark is the level representing the 'Expansion' that may be expected to occur on a hot day's engine running trip.

 

The video implies that ALL fluid is drained!

Not really true - for there is always a 'measurable' amount left in the system

Not a 'major' problem, however the video has him decanting a 50/50 mixed fluid for the initial Fill!

 

A typical 2L 4cyl system, might have approx 11L; when you include all the heating core system, and the extra approx 1L for the expansion tank.

in this hypothetical 50% case; I'd be instilling 5.5L of the Concentrate, to get the resulting 50% of 11L

 

Once you run the car, the latent pure water still sitting in the bottom of the block folowing the draining; mixes with, and further dilutes the total 11L down to the desired 50% -  and that is because the 5.5L Concenr-trate is decanted before the water...

 

I've been onto this many years, having a car back from Service, and litres of Coolant lost thru overfills, and their under calculating the % required...

 

...and so, now, if it was me' I'd be decanting undiluted 'Concentrate' directly into the system, equivalent to whatever would result in that 50/50% eventual result.

 

Only once ALL the required Concentrate is in the system, will I then add the Distilled water to complete the fill.

Doing it this way ensures the minimum % requirements are met!

In fact, at the end of the fill; all I need to do is then decant Distilled water to the Expansion bottle,

and subsequent runs/cools/runs/cools will mix the system and the bottle's fluids all together

 

I only use any preMix i.e that 50/50 for TopUps only.  there is no chance at this point of further dilution occurring;

unless of course, out on the side of the road, someone pours straight water into the rad. - but that is a different kettle of fish.

 

So it's good idea that at the time of purchasing the Coolant;

buy the Concentrate,

and at the same time, get the same Brand/Model fluid 50/50 equivalent,

that does not conflict i.e not red to blue/green; or blue/green to red etc etc

 

 

1 hour ago, HAKAPALITA said:

It stops and you tow it home.? Normal Folks call the Dealer, they tow it to a place full of Mechanics and bits that make em go again.

I think theres a prize for guessing the make and model.

  • Author

It's safe to say the issue has been found. ????

 

I started filling the radiator with water, with 2 liters gone into it it started leaking (almost pouring) out of a part of the engine.

 

Looking down:

 

OtdRQiE.jpg

 

It was coming out from around 1cm below the semi-circle part at the top of the pic. On the right side of the engine under/near the air-filter box.

 

DSFAb6o.jpg

 

From part of that circle piece with the Hex-nut on top, seems to be from the seal area around 1cm under it.

 

CC1WfUf.jpg

 

So, the coolant all leaked out. Power cut out in order to stop over heating etc.

 

Will get a mechanic to come next week.

the Thermostat gasket?

hard to see... unless the photo is of the Pump?

 

 

how come not see all the fluid earlier??

 

 

luckily you don't use a bottle of StopLeak goo! ... or egg white

26 minutes ago, Happy Grumpy said:

Will get a mechanic to come next week.

At last. ???? ????

  • Author

Actually I had noticed  'water' drops on the ground when parking a few days ago. Checked it wasn't oil, and put it down to condensation from the aircon.

 

 

I don't know what the part of the engine is, that's leaking. 

So what was the dipstick reading if not engine or transmission oil ? ?

 

+ do I get a prize for guessing it was coolant related ?

2 hours ago, Vacuum said:

Deep pockets?

Nothing in my pockets, spent it all on cars. 

  • Author

Why I don't like going to dealerships.

 

Had it towed there this morning. 

 

4,000 baht for them just to check what the problem is. (not removing the engine)

 

Of course then they can pull a whole host of parts out of thin air that you need. Why not, it's a franchised business and they make money on selling parts and labor. ????

On 1/30/2019 at 10:56 AM, Happy Grumpy said:

Why I don't like going to dealerships.

 

Had it towed there this morning. 

 

4,000 baht for them just to check what the problem is. (not removing the engine)

 

Of course then they can pull a whole host of parts out of thin air that you need. Why not, it's a franchised business and they make money on selling parts and labor. ????

Time for a dollop of Go Fund Me i recon.:drunk:

  • Author

^ Have a great one 200 meters from home. It was originally towed there, then towed home when it was closed. No others around that I automatically trust. 

 

Unfortunately it's currently closed until the week after Chinese New Year. Too long to wait for us. 

3-4 years- you are lucky. With the humidity and other factors in Phuket we are lucky to get two years out of a battery.

  • Author

Yeah, it was worth getting a new on even though that wasn't the issue. 

  • Author
4 hours ago, johng said:

So what was the issue ?

 

No word back from the dealership yet. Probably will know next week.

 

With the contents of the cooling system (coolant or water) pouring out from under what appears to be the water pump, hopefully the seal and a new waterpump.

 

What the franchised dealership say is anyone's guess. 

  • Author
On 2/1/2019 at 9:42 PM, Happy Grumpy said:

What the franchised dealership say is anyone's guess. 

mtRnmoq.jpg

 

O6U7x6X.jpg

 

Pretty much needs a whole new cooling system.

7,500 + 7,800 + 2350 thb.

 

Then there's the stuff that dealerships always find that you need to renew.

 

This time it's these:

 

3SijSfP.jpg

 

7,000 (x2) to fix

or 9,000 (x2) to renew.

 

 

4,000 thb was the quote to check everything.

 

So probably around 10k labor once finished. 

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Well, an update on this.

 

It's all been put back together with 60k baht of new engine parts.

 

But now the gears don't work!

 

Automatic car, after 5 minutes of the engine running, it gets to around 3000rpm and then doesn't change gear, then starts free revving. They said this on the phone and to come and see it.

 

Got back from the test drive, just about, after having to stop and turn off the engine 3 times, to all the mechanics busting their ass laughing.

 

 

Waiting for the quote for them to fix that now.

60,000 baht should/could have bought a whole new engine...well maybe not if its a Lamborghini...did you ever find out what that "other" dipstick was for ?

2 hours ago, Happy Grumpy said:

Automatic car, after 5 minutes of the engine running, it gets to around 3000rpm and then doesn't change gear, then starts free revving. They said this on the phone and to come and see it.

 

Got back from the test drive, just about, after having to stop and turn off the engine 3 times,

 

Sounds like the transmission.

 

It could be going into neutral when the engines gets to running temperature and gets to a certain rpm.

 

It sounds rather strange, to be honest. 

  • Author

They're communicating through the Thai wife.

 

They say around 200k baht for the new part for this new problem. Or around 80k baht to fix it.

 

No other details being given. Needless to say, I'm skeptical.  

44 minutes ago, Happy Grumpy said:

They say around 200k baht for the new part for this new problem. Or around 80k baht to fix it.

 

200,000 baht for the new part that stops the transmission free revving?

 

80,000 baht to fix it?

 

 

They're lying.

 

Get the name and numbers in a list of the parts they say they need, then research them online. 

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