SCG Staycool Insulation install

[longball53098]

Hey all,,,,,,I will be installing the 150mm Staycool batts in ceilings over 3 rooms in the near future. I will hire out the install but I am trying to decide if I should make a deal with Homepro for the product and their installer services or hire my own local guy that has never done this type of thing before.

 

Has anyone used Homepro for this? Can you validate that they do a proper install? Cutting out the areas around downlights as an example?

 

I will ask my local guy to watch the Thai SCG videos on how to install and see if he is willing to do it.

 

So, anyone with any suggestions?

 

Thanks

 

PK

[bankruatsteve]

If your ceiling is the "normal" hanging type, the hangers are (should be) 60cm apart and that is what the bat width is.  So, it's just a matter of rolling them out.  A short person who can survive the heat can easily do it but best to have two.  My wife and the neighbor boy did ours.

 

I wouldn't bother cutouts.  There is no fire hazard with today's lights and that stuff doesn't burn anyway.  It's the reflection of radiant heat that will help so you don't really need much thickness to the bat (must have some).  But there are folks that are convinced the thicker the bat, the better.  There you go.

[sometimewoodworker]

The 150mm batts need no training to install, I did our bedroom ceiling myself. The only tool needed was a knife to cut round electrical cables.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

If your ceiling is the "normal" hanging type, the hangers are (should be) 60cm apart and that is what the bat width is.  So, it's just a matter of rolling them out.  A short person who can survive the heat can easily do it but best to have two.

I took it that he had the individual squares not rolls. So it is even easier, though longer, to fit

[eyecatcher]

On a flimsy suspended plasterboard ceiling its not easy no matter hoe you look at it.

I made two efforts before buying these Staycool rolls just to see if i thought the runners could hold my weight or if i marched out there could i balance and turn around.

In the end despite my athletic and flexible manoeuvres i decided those runners would fold in a heartbeat and i would be thro.

I paid someone the going rate of 50bt a m2 for 16rolls. The trick is your profficiency with the long stick to roll out and push to the corners.

 

Our guy was literally like a pit miner when he surfaced, For 1800bt it was preferable to me falling through the ceiling with a lot of damage

[bankruatsteve]

7 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

On a flimsy suspended plasterboard ceiling its not easy no matter hoe you look at it.

I made two efforts before buying these Staycool rolls just to see if i thought the runners could hold my weight or if i marched out there could i balance and turn around.

In the end despite my athletic and flexible manoeuvres i decided those runners would fold in a heartbeat and i would be thro.

Perhaps your ceiling not conventional?  When they put the hangers in for my house, I could suspend my 90 kg with no issue.  Wouldn't put weight on the plaster board, but the runners should be OK.

[Fruit Trader]

1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

I wouldn't bother cutouts.  There is no fire hazard with today's lights and that stuff doesn't burn anyway. 

Some LED fittings and drivers might not be happy with their new cosy wrap. 

[fredob43]

18 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

Some LED fittings and drivers might not be happy with their new cosy wrap. 

I have never had a problem with LED lights as they seem to run cool. But I did have to cut around the spots as they used to get hot and bugger the bulbs rather quick. I only use then on a dimmer so never on full power. Just a small gap over the spots letting any heat out and they have lasted for months.

 

Has the lagging of roof helped, you had better believe it the rooms stay quite cool now. Well worth the expense.

[Fruit Trader]

14 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

I have never had a problem with LED lights as they seem to run cool. But I did have to cut around the spots as they used to get hot and bugger the bulbs rather quick. I only use then on a dimmer so never on full power. Just a small gap over the spots letting any heat out and they have lasted for months.

 

Has the lagging of roof helped, you had better believe it the rooms stay quite cool now. Well worth the expense.

LED lights that appear to be running cool are most likely dissipating their heat effectively. Interfering with the heat dissipation can result in premature failure of the LED or its solid state driver components. You can quite literally cook egg on the back of a 10 watt LED that has no place to dump its heat.

 

Good quality drivers will most often fail in a safe manner but unfortunately the same cant always be said for those off the cheap Chinese market.

[eyecatcher]

A good supply of plastic plant pots if in doubt 

[scorecard]

11 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

A good supply of plastic plant pots if in doubt 

 ... with holes drilled or whatever to let them breath a bit. Easy.

[eyecatcher]

6 minutes ago, scorecard said:

 ... with holes drilled or whatever to let them breath a bit. Easy.

No need to drill, just buy the pots like these, this is a 5inchx5inch pot

[xkkpafi]

5 hours ago, longball53098 said:

I will ask my local guy to watch the Thai SCG videos on how to install and see if he is willing to do it.

Longball, do you have a URL to these videos, would appreciate the link if you do. Any idea of what these are called in Thai as I can't understand the Tingalit spoken in the HP stores.

[scorecard]

31 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

No need to drill, just buy the pots like these, this is a 5inchx5inch pot

Exactly, my buddy in CM used these exact pots. 

[sometimewoodworker]

45 minutes ago, xkkpafi said:

Longball, do you have a URL to these videos, would appreciate the link if you do. Any idea of what these are called in Thai as I can't understand the Tingalit spoken in the HP stores.

It was so difficult to find them YouTube search link

[xkkpafi]

Thanks for that.

[fredob43]

5 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

LED lights that appear to be running cool are most likely dissipating their heat effectively. Interfering with the heat dissipation can result in premature failure of the LED or its solid state driver components. You can quite literally cook egg on the back of a 10 watt LED that has no place to dump its heat.

 

Good quality drivers will most often fail in a safe manner but unfortunately the same cant always be said for those off the cheap Chinese market.

It does depend on what LED spots you have. Your correct. Some do get hot I have a couple fitted over the Patio and they only get used a small amount. They are also on a dimmer. Have loads of room to dissipate the heat.

 

They stopped working took a look and found they had burnet out the thin connecting wires that came with them. Now replaced with thicker 15am stuff so far so good.

 

Bulbs I have in the spots in lounge are normal round headed 60amp: ones. They don't seem to get to hot thank Buddha. But have still made an opening in the insulation just in case.

Edited April 23, 2019 by fredob43

[bankruatsteve]

18 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

Bulbs I have in the spots in lounge are normal round headed 60amp: ones. They don't seem to get to hot thank Buddha. But have still made an opening in the insulation just in case.

60 Watt perhaps?  But then, the only "normal" 60W bulb would be incandescent and they do get hot.  Anyway... the OP referred to down lights - which would be in a casing and nothing to worry about IMO.

[fredob43]

17 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

60 Watt perhaps?  But then, the only "normal" 60W bulb would be incandescent and they do get hot.  Anyway... the OP referred to down lights - which would be in a casing and nothing to worry about IMO.

Yes watt and not amp: I can assure you mine don't get hot as they run via a dimmer and are never put on full power. I would call them down lights What would you refer to them as.

 

[Fruit Trader]

50 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Anyway... the OP referred to down lights - which would be in a casing and nothing to worry about IMO.

The fins and plates at the rear of LED recessed down lights dissipate heat. Down lights fitted with MR11 style LED lamps benefit greatly from air flow moving through a recessed fitting.

 

Cool LED's live longer.

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, fredob43 said:

Yes watt and not amp: I can assure you mine don't get hot as they run via a dimmer and are never put on full power. I would call them down lights What would you refer to them as.

 

I would also call them downlights, though I'm sure that they are not 60W ones, equivalent to 60W sure but more probably somewhere between 6W and 12W.

 

I have some 50W LED lights in my workshop and you are not going to get them into those fittings, I'm not sure if you can even get them with an E27 base, mine are E40

[longball53098]

Thanks to all for the discussion here and good tips. I will most likely ask my local handyman that has done many jobs for me as a first person to use. I trust him to do a good job for me and he will not disappear.

 

As for my "down-lights" I have mostly this type of light fixture that use the E27 base bulbs. Most have the newer LED bulbs installed at this point and some the spiral CFL.

 

 

[fredob43]

14 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I would also call them downlights, though I'm sure that they are not 60W ones, equivalent to 60W sure but more probably somewhere between 6W and 12W.

 

I have some 50W LED lights in my workshop and you are not going to get them into those fittings, I'm not sure if you can even get them with an E27 base, mine are E40

If I say they are 60w I mean 60w. Have enclosed snap of box and bulb I do like to be correct if I can as it helps everyone.

 

Edited April 24, 2019 by fredob43

[fredob43]

16 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

The fins and plates at the rear of LED recessed down lights dissipate heat. Down lights fitted with MR11 style LED lamps benefit greatly from air flow moving through a recessed fitting.

 

Cool LED's live longer.

 

 

I have those type over my patio. They do get very hot.

They are the ones that I said that they burnet out the wires that come with the set up. They also have a very large gap above lights to dissipate the heat.

Snap of one of them. The wires I am referring to can be seen on one on the picture above.

Mine are on dimmers and never use on full power. But they sill buggered the wires so will need lots of room to get rid of heat.

 

Edited April 24, 2019 by fredob43

[bankruatsteve]

3 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

If I say they are 60w I mean 60w. Have enclosed snap of box and bulb I do like to be correct if I can as it helps everyone.

 

Looks like incandescent bulb to me.

[fredob43]

31 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Looks like incandescent bulb to me.

 

31 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Looks like incandescent bulb to me.

Yes I did say they were standard bulbs not LED or the new type. They don't get to hot as I have said several times, all my lights run of a dimer. Only used if I want a small amount of background light. Anything else and it's LED ceiling lights.

Snap of one of my 3 LED ceiling light so there's no confusion this time.

N/B you cant dim those type. Would like to be able to dim same as they are very bright I have a 40s/m lounge and 1 lights up the whole thing.

 

Edited April 24, 2019 by fredob43

[Fruit Trader]

2 hours ago, fredob43 said:

N/B you cant dim those type. Would like to be able to dim same as they are very bright I have a 40s/m lounge and 1 lights up the whole thing.

LED lamp dimming at the 220V level can be problematic even when the manufacturer stamps the product dimmable. One way lighting designers get around this problem is to use many smaller low output LED lamps and switch them in groups to adjust the mood. Output colour is also important when selecting LED lighting.

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, fredob43 said:

17 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I would also call them downlights, though I'm sure that they are not 60W ones, equivalent to 60W sure but more probably somewhere between 6W and 12W.

 

I have some 50W LED lights in my workshop and you are not going to get them into those fittings, I'm not sure if you can even get them with an E27 base, mine are E40

If I say they are 60w I mean 60w. Have enclosed snap of box and bulb I do like to be correct if I can as it helps everyone.

So the old inefficient incandescent bulbs not LEDs

[fredob43]

35 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

LED lamp dimming at the 220V level can be problematic even when the manufacturer stamps the product dimmable. One way lighting designers get around this problem is to use many smaller low output LED lamps and switch them in groups to adjust the mood. Output colour is also important when selecting LED lighting.

I don't have a problem with dimming my outdoor LED, those are the ones in a snap. They start off low and get brighter as you turn the switch. I get enough brightness at less than half power. The ones that wont dim are the LED ceiling lights.

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, fredob43 said:

 

Yes I did say they were standard bulbs not LED or the new type. They don't get to hot as I have said several times, all my lights run of a dimer. Only used if I want a small amount of background light. Anything else and it's LED ceiling lights.

Snap of one of my 3 LED ceiling light so there's no confusion this time.

N/B you cant dim those type. Would like to be able to dim same as they are very bright I have a 40s/m lounge and 1 lights up the whole thing.

 

You can get dimmable versions of those (or virtually the same) in

HomePro

 

I have the dimmable colour changing (walm to cool white) versions from china in my bedroom.