How quick will my 2x4 frames rot?

[MangoPineappleBanana]

Hello all, I have done some reading in this section about thai construction and most definitely understand the reason most build exterior and even interior walls with concrete.
 

I have a somewhat short term need for an interior wall and ceiling to house aircon head unit and retain temperature/humidity control, no i’m not growing ganja, this is in a small furniture warehouse and we need a controlled environment for a project that will be finished in 6-12mo time so I dont to put up cinderblocks like the thai employees have suggested we do 555. 
 

Would anyone advise against 2x4 frame, drywall, and insulation like i’m used to in the US or is that a bad idea for obvious weather reasons? If I dont care about longevity is it still an issue? Maybe someone has a better short term construction suggestion

[cornishcarlos]

Termites ?? They can eat through soft woods in hours !!

[steve187]

use jumbo studding available in large stores like hardware house, quick clean, easy to use, plaster boards both sides, insulation in the middle - https://bit.ly/2Qfes8m

[BritManToo]

Why not use steel and drywall?

Very cheap  6m x1" x1" is about 150bht, and you could just weld the joins.

Edited March 14, 2020 by BritManToo

[cornishcarlos]

7 minutes ago, BritManToo said:

Why not use steel and drywall?

Very cheap  2m x1" x1" is about 150bht, and you could just weld the joins.

 

Or even better is the Aluminium framing for this exact purpose.

Light and easy to work with... Not really weight bearing but probably suitable for an AC unit, maybe with some added frames for extra strength !!

[Don Mega]

8 minutes ago, BritManToo said:

Why not use steel and drywall?

Very cheap  2m x1" x1" is about 150bht, and you could just weld the joins.

A wall made from 1" x 1" SHS sounds like it would be awfully flimsy.

[BritManToo]

9 minutes ago, cornishcarlos said:

Or even better is the Aluminium framing for this exact purpose.

Light and easy to work with... Not really weight bearing but probably suitable for an AC unit, maybe with some added frames for extra strength !!

Too expensive for me ........ steel is sold everywhere and welders are cheap.

[steve187]

2 hours ago, BritManToo said:

Too expensive for me ........ steel is sold everywhere and welders are cheap.

better to make something do instead of using the items made for the job, to save a few baht, if you are a tight wad. who heard of a 1'' thick wall, one good beer virus sneeze and it will fall down

Edited March 14, 2020 by steve187

[AussieBob18]

6 months might be too long for standard wood - and if the job is extended even more likely - the rain season coming and wood will absorb the moisture unless you buy the good stuff treated etc - not sure the price. The steel frame and waterproof board sounds like a good idea - I remember that was easily available at the building supplies places. Welders definitely cheap - but check when finished - and I would try to nut and bolt as much as possible.  Go and take a look around the building materials places - dont ask floor staff - just walk around and look yourself.

[xtrnuno41]

rent a cooler container for that period, 20,40 foot container or whatever size.

all isolated and temp controlled.

[bankruatsteve]

2x4 wood studs are very rare in Thailand (straight ones for sure).  Metal studs have gotta be a lot cheaper.

[bluejets]

Blue plastic sheet specifically designed to go between concrete floor and the floor plate should be all that is required.

 

If you are installing an RAC then it will remove humidity so the room will be subject to less humidity than one without.

[frequentatore]

Plastic sheets or a simple curtain. Try with whatever material you have available.

I've done it, it works perfectly.

[sometimewoodworker]

7 hours ago, AussieBob18 said:

wood will absorb the moisture unless you buy the good stuff treated etc

All wood will absorb moisture, there is no treated wood easily available in Thailand apart from possibly some sheet goods.

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

2x4 wood studs are very rare in Thailand (straight ones for sure).  Metal studs have gotta be a lot cheaper.

It’s actually quite easy to get reasonably straight 2x4 wood in my area though at the price you need to pay would make your building ridiculously expensive.

[eyecatcher]

10 hours ago, BritManToo said:

Too expensive for me ........ steel is sold everywhere and welders are cheap.

4m lengths of aluminium c line are 20bt, all suspended ceilings are made from this. Tin snips and screws to make a strong frame.

can upgrade to c line studs, more robust, again easy job and cheap.

[longball53098]

Find a seller of this product, no issues with rotting

 

http://www.rungruangsteel.com/product/front/listproduct/id/3

[Chazar]

On 3/14/2020 at 7:09 AM, cornishcarlos said:

 

Or even better is the Aluminium framing for this exact purpose.

Light and easy to work with... Not really weight bearing but probably suitable for an AC unit, maybe with some added frames for extra strength !!

stuffs  so  thin here I  think if  u farted  on it it  would  bend

[cornishcarlos]

43 minutes ago, Chazar said:

stuffs  so  thin here I  think if  u farted  on it it  would  bend

 

Constructed properly, this is good for internal partitions.. The C profile is surprisingly strong, even the thinner guage

[Fruit Trader]

46 minutes ago, Chazar said:

stuffs  so  thin here I  think if  u farted  on it it  would  bend

Galvanized steel C-Line does not need to be thick as its made to suit rapid screw fixing. The board adds rigidity.

[JimShortz]

The regular method for partitions here are with the cheap lightweight galvanised framing. I had a couple of interior walls that I may wish to remove in the future done this way; inexpensive and quick...

If you can get the timber cheaply it would be fine for 6 months so long as the termites stay out... Wood can be coated with chaindrite to make it less attractive to termites, but not nice stuff. 

 

[MangoPineappleBanana]

misquote - deleted

Edited March 18, 2020 by MangoPineappleBanana

[bankruatsteve]

4 minutes ago, MangoPineappleBanana said:

Can you elaborate on what you mean for blue floor sheeting? Originally I had no intentions to do anything with floor other than leave it concrete for same level as outside small room. 

You quoted me, but I have no idea about the flooring you mention.

[MangoPineappleBanana]

misquote - deleted

Edited March 18, 2020 by MangoPineappleBanana

[MangoPineappleBanana]

On 3/15/2020 at 10:40 AM, JimShortz said:

The regular method for partitions here are with the cheap lightweight galvanised framing. I had a couple of interior walls that I may wish to remove in the future done this way; inexpensive and quick...

If you can get the timber cheaply it would be fine for 6 months so long as the termites stay out... Wood can be coated with chaindrite to make it less attractive to termites, but not nice stuff. 

Thanks for the pics! This is likely my exact course of action with some metal screws and steel snips. I can always use a secondary stand or something if the cline that I use doesnt seem strong enough to hold an AC head unit. Perhaps the ceiling will make it ‘feel’ more structurally sound. 2x4 and termites dont sound logical to pursue as an option although it is the construction i’m most familiar with. Glad I asked first! 

[MangoPineappleBanana]

On 3/14/2020 at 4:24 PM, bluejets said:

Blue plastic sheet specifically designed to go between concrete floor and the floor plate should be all that is required.

 

If you are installing an RAC then it will remove humidity so the room will be subject to less humidity than one without.

Can you elaborate on what you mean for blue floor sheeting? Originally I had no intentions to do anything with floor other than leave it concrete for same level as outside small room. You mean to lay plastic BEFORE this slab was poured? I have no intentions of pouring more concrete...

[jany123]

17 minutes ago, MangoPineappleBanana said:

Thanks for the pics! This is likely my exact course of action with some metal screws and steel snips. I can always use a secondary stand or something if the cline that I use doesnt seem strong enough to hold an AC head unit. Perhaps the ceiling will make it ‘feel’ more structurally sound. 2x4 and termites dont sound logical to pursue as an option although it is the construction i’m most familiar with. Glad I asked first! 

You might want to google metal stud framing before starting, as theres lots of diy vids on this

 

 stud frame is infinitely better than wood. It’s very simple to use, and more versatile. A few years ago I did an internal room. I used heavy duty pop rivets. No worries... welding is not required.

 

Metal stud framing is a 2 by 4 metal alternative with the same principles as wood stud, so you can use your existing knowledge of that product, as it’s the most relevant experience... but it’s even easier.

[sirineou]

On 3/18/2020 at 6:18 AM, jany123 said:

You might want to google metal stud framing before starting, as theres lots of diy vids on this

 

 stud frame is infinitely better than wood. It’s very simple to use, and more versatile. A few years ago I did an internal room. I used heavy duty pop rivets. No worries... welding is not required.

 

Metal stud framing is a 2 by 4 metal alternative with the same principles as wood stud, so you can use your existing knowledge of that product, as it’s the most relevant experience... but it’s even easier.

excellent post, I would only do one thing different.

My qualifications, 30 Years with the carpenters Union  local 212 NYC specialising in High Rise construction. 

Pop rivets are a lot of work. We use zip screws ,

 

 you can also crimp (if you have a crimping tool) the studs to the top and bottom rail.

or if you cant find zip screws in Thailand, use small self tapping screws

 

They don't need  to be secured very strong, they only need to stay in place long enough for the drywall to be installed. once the drywall is installed the drywall will  keep the system together. 

    To the OP as you said "Google it" better yet go on YouTube plenty of instructional videos. 

  Install the studs 16" OC (on center) . Leave the stud on the edge of the drewall (where two pieces of drywall meet) loose.  That way you can move it to where it need to be as you install the drywall  so that both pieces sit on the stud . 

Where you might have heavy weights such as where you will have your A/C unit. if you are concerned about the weight screw two studs back to back with self tapping screws, You would in effect be creating an I Beam and you will be amazes how strong it is. 

 

Good luck 

  

 

 

Edited March 20, 2020 by sirineou

[sirineou]

On 3/14/2020 at 11:40 PM, JimShortz said:

The regular method for partitions here are with the cheap lightweight galvanised framing. I had a couple of interior walls that I may wish to remove in the future done this way; inexpensive and quick...

If you can get the timber cheaply it would be fine for 6 months so long as the termites stay out... Wood can be coated with chaindrite to make it less attractive to termites, but not nice stuff. 

 

Nice work !!!

[CharlieH]

I used an aluminium and glass wall, same as they make patio doors or shop fronts etc out of. 

Easy, fast and removable reusuable.