RichCor Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 (edited) Yes, this is where the RED wire is connected to BLACK (LIVE). I'd say, go ahead and do as Metropolitian suggested, add another WHITE jumper to the WHITE twist in the second wall hole and use that in your device NEUTRAL. Just make sure to connect the YELLOW wire coming in from the ceiling light fixture is connected to the device LOAD, and the 'Yellow' wire coming from Switch #2 is connected to device LIVE. Note: As currently wired, when Switch #2 is turned OFF the remote will not function. Edited April 20, 2020 by RichCor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartpix Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Hi Metropolitian, just to be sure... Yellow with red to Live Plain Yellow to LOAD Connect a White to White in lower socket and run to Neutral on dimmer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartpix Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Hi RichCor, "Note: As currently wired, when Switch #2 is turned OFF the remote will not function." I do not understand this. The underneath double switches are rarely used. Greater than 9 times out of 10 only the existing dimmer is used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCor Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 1 minute ago, bartpix said: I do not understand this. The underneath double switches are rarely used. Greater than 9 times out of 10 only the existing dimmer is used. I may be wrong, but I don't see where the YELLOW (red shrink) is coming from. I'm assuming it's connected to one of the BLUE wires on SWITCH #2, but it might otherwise just be connected to the RED wires (that are feeding always on LIVE) and always ON. Can you take a better picture of the top wall enclosure so we can see the wiring with better lighting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartpix Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Top Dimmer Switch wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCor Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 You were correct. I see 2 BLUE wires going into the conduit going up, the the YELLOW (red shrink) is connected into that RED (LIVE common)? If so, then YELLOW (red shrink) is always LIVE and your remote will be always ON. You now just need to add in your additional WHITE wire jumper to give power to your remote device Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartpix Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 That's Great. Much thanks to All for the help. I will wait 'til daylight to do the necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitian Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 1 hour ago, bartpix said: Hi Metropolitian, just to be sure... Yellow with red to Live Plain Yellow to LOAD Connect a White to White in lower socket and run to Neutral on dimmer. Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartpix Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Thank again Metropolitian for the help. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitian Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 The locked down children were playing again but with play-doh ???? This the very crude sketch what it is and the connection to make the smart-switch work. If you can get your hand to screw caps or even waco's that would be a better solution then using (black)tape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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