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Posted
21 minutes ago, Cashboy said:

Learned quite a bit from this electrical forum

 

We aim to please ????

 

With the "expertise" of the average Thai domestic sparks you need all the help you can get.

 

Don't get me wrong, there are some very good local sparkies, but they are (or at least were) all earning pots on mega-projects or in O&G.

Posted
15 hours ago, Cashboy said:

I am either hitting the steel raw bar in the pre-made concrete floor slabs you put down before you put down the wire mesh and concrete the floor or the wire mesh.

 

The steel in either is pretty small.

 

Mark your hole, drill out what you can then use a chisel to expose the mesh, you'll need clearance to get a tool in.

 

Bolt cutters or a small angle grinder would be the tool of choice even if you have to make a bigger hole than you would like, you can always make good once the pipe is in place.

 

Using a naked hacksaw blade is an option but the cheap ones are "all hard" and snap very easily. Make sure it's cutting on the up-stroke then if it breaks your hand will be moving away from the broken end.

 

Also, just make one cut in the middle of the hole then bend the steel out of the way. Less cutting and more steel for the backfill cement to grip on to.

 

Alternatively, get your contractor to do the job he may have the proper coring kit ????

 

 

Posted

Don't forget wire size is based only on the conductor, and does not include the insulation.

 

Were it me wiring new walls I would absolutely invest in a wall-chaser and hide all my conduit in the walls.

 

427760386_WallChaser.JPG.124faa5ddb380122f37235c436cffeca.JPG 

Posted
1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

Were it me wiring new walls I would absolutely invest in a wall-chaser and hide all my conduit in the walls.

Far better than that is to put them in a cavity.68BCCAF9-0BAC-44DE-B9DB-3FADC70BF397.jpeg.62e0676794644daac79f58de628de139.jpeg

B70F67A2-2A07-4D78-A258-32953D3C3E73.jpeg.d481bb69f824e8a0c667bae48269dc7c.jpeg

Posted
2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

9C216E21-00E6-4C79-8C42-549B9EFAEA87.thumb.jpeg.64647680b68eeb57a4747fb350c19847.jpeg
here is your 1,005 word answer ???? 

1,005 apologies. Looking at the columns I though it was a house with several floors not a posh DIY shed. The columns could have been lost in the super cavity allowing the block work to have continuous bond but I guess it don't matter in this application.
 

Posted
38 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

 

What's the difference?

Chasing walls on a new build is no big drama and even easier on AAC blocks. Two slots with a diamond wheel and some light taps with the chisel.

 

Conduit down a cavity is fine providing you don't include junctions or tight bends that will be impossible to access later.

Posted
35 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

The columns could have been lost in the super cavity allowing the block work to have continuous bond but I guess it don't matter in this application.

If I did that the cavity would have been huge with very little benefit that I can see, the walls are already 40cm thick.

Posted
2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

If I did that the cavity would have been huge with very little benefit that I can see, the walls are already 40cm thick.

Where is the huge load coming from for you to require 400 mm -+ columns? The existing cavity alone can accommodate columns suitable of another floor.

 

Looks to me like you wanted a wide cavity and used the traditional Thai column and fill block method to suit the extra wide space. 

Posted
50 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said:

Where is the huge load coming from for you to require 400 mm -+ columns? The existing cavity alone can accommodate columns suitable of another floor.

 

Looks to me like you wanted a wide cavity and used the traditional Thai column and fill block method to suit the extra wide space. 

Maybe you are missing the trusses and crane suspension points.
 

Anyway it’s as the architect and structural engineer designed so your questions should go to them. I only specified the exterior and interior look.

Posted
16 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

9C216E21-00E6-4C79-8C42-549B9EFAEA87.thumb.jpeg.64647680b68eeb57a4747fb350c19847.jpeg
here is your 1,005 word answer ???? 

Nice, what king of hoist do you have on the crane? 

Posted
3 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Nice, what king of hoist do you have on the crane? 

I won’t call it a king ???? it’s more like the equerry of hoists ???? 

 

Moving full sheets is one of the things it gets most used for.

 


using a Gorilla Gripper


 

though my shorts are not so tight.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Thank you all for your advise and suggestions on the ducting size.

 

I managed to drill a hole through the concrete floor without cutting any of the raw bar/steel and managed to get 3/4" plastic ducting through.

Just as well because even then it was not easy to get 3 cables (16mm copper) through that plastic pipe when you had a 90 degree bend.

P1000938.JPG

  • Like 1

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