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Just noticed the trap under the sink is rusted out and has to be replaced. I can buy the whole fitting from Lazada but just need to know how the pipe that goes into the wall is connected and to what. It seems that end isn't threaded so how is it held in there.

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Too short can be a problem also.   If the sink pipe dies not reach the drain down pipe water can trickle back and run down the inside wall.

I get that, I'm a fat old man. Sit on a bucket and get a pair of these:  

I measured the old pipe and ordered the same length.

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3 minutes ago, worgeordie said:

It's just pushed in, so you need to apply some kind of sealer to it.

regards Worgeordie

What about removing the old pipe, is that going to come out easily after at least 13 years stuck in there?

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Yes  just a push fit into the pipe embedded it the wall

I cut that end at 45 ish degrees angle to help the water flow a bit better

and put a bit of silicone sealant around  the join under the disc that sits on the wall.

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1 minute ago, giddyup said:

What about removing the old pipe, is that going to come out easily

 

Should come out quite easy,  though sometimes they seal it with grout/concrete  and then it could be a bit harder to remove.

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8 minutes ago, johng said:

Should come out quite easy,  though sometimes they seal it with grout/concrete  and then it could be a bit harder to remove.

 

Yeah, one in our old condo was grouted/cemented in. The paper thin tube actually came out and left a perfect cement lining in the wall, a thin smear of silicon made a great job for the new pipe.

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Posted (edited)

How much extra pipe should I allow for the connection to the wall? The kit comes in various lengths, 10", 12", 14" etc. I've ordered a 14" which should give a couple of inches to fit inside the wall. Will that be enough? I assume the stainless steel pipe is going inside some kind of blue plastic fitting?

Edited by giddyup
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14 minutes ago, giddyup said:

a couple of inches to fit inside the wall. Will that be enough?

Yes probably too much  as they "mostly"  fit a 90 degree elbow embedded the wall  so it doesn't leave much to actually fit into  

"measure twice cut once"  😋

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7 minutes ago, johng said:

Yes probably too much  as they "mostly"  fit a 90 degree elbow embedded the wall  so it doesn't leave much to actually fit into  

"measure twice cut once"  😋

Thanks, rather have the pipe too long than too short. It can always be cut.

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If the drain isn't included in your kit, you will want to test the secure connection before you proceed. Several years ago, I went through 2 drain kits from Home Pro that would not fit up with the drain - popped out. And it leaked. The drain was also from Home Pro and finally got it sorted but not without an unhappy missus having to clean a leaky drain. 😎

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Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

If the drain isn't included in your kit, you will want to test the secure connection before you proceed. Several years ago, I went through 2 drain kits from Home Pro that would not fit up with the drain - popped out. And it leaked. The drain was also from Home Pro and finally got it sorted but not without an unhappy missus having to clean a leaky drain. 😎

Do you mean the drain on the sink? What I pictured is what there is in the kit.

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Edited by giddyup
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Yah, the drain in the sink. Thread dimensions do not follow any one standard here. Just make sure you can get a good hand tighten. Else you will need a compatible drain. 

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4 hours ago, giddyup said:

What about removing the old pipe, is that going to come out easily after at least 13 years stuck in there?

Depends how they fixed in there , whenever i think a job is easy,

that's when i get problems , 

regards worgeordie

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4 hours ago, giddyup said:

Thanks, rather have the pipe too long than too short. It can always be cut.

It won’t be easy to cut and certainly not without leaving an exposed ring of steel that’s a prime spot for rust to start. It’s far better to get a size that doesn’t need cutting, I speak from experience. 

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50 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

It won’t be easy to cut and certainly not without leaving an exposed ring of steel that’s a prime spot for rust to start. It’s far better to get a size that doesn’t need cutting, I speak from experience. 

That steel is as thin as paper, a hacksaw or angle grinder would cut it like butter, then it's just a question of putting some primer or sealer on the cut, but hopefully I ordered the correct length so that won't be necessary.

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Thinking I might as well replace the drain in the sink at the same time as that is looking a bit rusty as well. I remember seeing a tool on Lazada for removing the big nut underneath, but I can't remember what it was called. Any ideas?

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Are the tubes not chrome plated brass? These cut easily using a 4" grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel. 

 

I think the different length kits have to do with the height of the sink with respect to the drain-hole in the wall, not the distance from the drain-hole in the sink to the wall. I think the sink drain-hole to wall dimension is pretty universal...

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Like  most  things here these  traps  are  total  JUNK made  from Mickey MOUSE  METAL Id  give anything for a decent quality one like I can get in the UK.

As to connection often they seem  to  think squirting in Silicone is the answer to everything, you can in fact get proper  rubber  sealing gaskets, Ive seen them at Boonthavorn they push into the pipes making  several seals due to the lips on them

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Edited by Rampant Rabbit
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Just now, Rampant Rabbit said:

Like  most  things here these  traps  are  total  JUNK made  from Mickey MOUSE  METAL

 

I use the plastic ones now  no rusting problems 😋

 

1 minute ago, Rampant Rabbit said:

you can in fact get proper  rubber  sealing gaskets, Ive seen them at Boonthavorn

 

yes I've seen them in the shops too (never seen one fitted into the wall)  has the hole in the wall been bored to the correct size at the correct angle,hight etc etc ?   just easier to splodge a bit of silicone on, the water from the sink is not under high pressure so no need for  anything too complicated/extreme to seal the pipe in place.

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Just now, johng said:

 

I use the plastic ones now  no rusting problems 😋

 

 

yes I've seen them in the shops too (never seen one fitted into the wall)  has the hole in the wall been bored to the correct size at the correct angle,hight etc etc ?   just easier to splodge a bit of silicone on, the water from the sink is not under high pressure so no need for  anything too complicated/extreme to seal the pipe in place.

Plastic  ones  often have  <deleted>  poor  threads  on the joints so you tighten them up and bang the thread  slips  round , dont know whats under HIS  wall but mine   go into a plastic  pipe and they fit  both joints.

 

I also use  PLUMBERS  mate broguht from the uk as its  often the best way to seal  sink wastes  to  sinks  here, some of the plastic  gaskets they use are way too  hard to seal properly. poor  design cheap manufacture  <deleted> materials.

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3 minutes ago, johng said:

 

I use the plastic ones now  no rusting problems 😋

 

 

yes I've seen them in the shops too (never seen one fitted into the wall)  has the hole in the wall been bored to the correct size at the correct angle,hight etc etc ?   just easier to splodge a bit of silicone on, the water from the sink is not under high pressure so no need for  anything too complicated/extreme to seal the pipe in place.

Silicone tends to shrink in time from what Ive seen then they leak.

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24 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Are the tubes not chrome plated brass? These cut easily using a 4" grinder equipped with a cut-off wheel. 

 

I think the different length kits have to do with the height of the sink with respect to the drain-hole in the wall, not the distance from the drain-hole in the sink to the wall. I think the sink drain-hole to wall dimension is pretty universal...

No, it's the distance to the wall that varies.

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1 hour ago, giddyup said:

I remember seeing a tool on Lazada for removing the big nut underneath, but I can't remember what it was called. Any ideas?

What I call a slip wrench or plumber's wrench should do it.  Any of the Home places will have and not much.  Actually, those are supposed to be hand tighten so you may give that a try first.

Another way is to hammer tap a screwdriver on the nut until it loosens.

Edited by bankruatsteve
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1 hour ago, tifino said:

yes, too long could be a problem... 

Too short can be a problem also.

 

If the sink pipe dies not reach the drain down pipe water can trickle back and run down the inside wall.

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5 minutes ago, Beachcomber said:

Too short can be a problem also.

 

If the sink pipe dies not reach the drain down pipe water can trickle back and run down the inside wall.

I measured the old pipe and ordered the same length.

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Instead of the trap you can use a simple "U" shaped PVC pipe, seeing that it is properly connected to the existing ends. The always remaining water in the "U" will block the stench coming from the pipework, same as the trap. 

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5 minutes ago, Saanim said:

Instead of the trap you can use a simple "U" shaped PVC pipe, seeing that it is properly connected to the existing ends. The always remaining water in the "U" will block the stench coming from the pipework, same as the trap. 

 

Don't use anything that glues together...

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Posted (edited)

Well of course I ran into a problem hooking up the new trap. I couldn't get the connector that screws onto the sink outlet to turn more than a couple of turns. Not sure if this is because the thread on the sink grate is different to the one on the connector or the thread on the grate has been damaged. Problem is there's not a lot of room to manoeuvre under the sink because of a built in cupboard, plus lying on my back, it's all a bit awkward. If I can get the big plastic nut undone that holds the grate in, I'll take the grate out and have a closer look at it. These jobs are never as simple as you hope.

Edited by giddyup
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