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1993 Yamaha Belle-R. Restoration thread.


Simple Jack

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18 hours ago, Simple Jack said:

Darn. The non heat resistant can claims to etch. Hopefully it will be okay. Thanks for the link. Will order some up for future projects.

I forgot to mention that etch primer must be followed by a normal primer as you cannot paint directly over it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update II

 

 

Wen't to the coating shop today for an estimate. They wanted a ridiculous ammount. I didn't come down the Mekong on a banana boat. As i used to blast & coat back in the Uk for a living at one point.

 

So it's back to doing things the auld fashioned way. Wire brushed the worst of the rust. To be cost effective. Im using the old vinegar trick. Spray it down every few hours to keep it moist and leave it overnight. Takes time but it works. Just have to stipple out the air bubbles when laying down the kitchen roll.

 

The mummy returns. 555

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey folks,

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. Mrs Jack shot the crow after 3 years. So iv'e been busy pumpin' anything that moves under 30 for the last few weeks.

 

The bike is on two wheels at last. Just starting work on the engine.  i'll fire up some pics thisevening.

 

Take care & keep safe all.

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Just a shout folks,

 

I'm having a hard time finding a new cage bearing for the clutch arm. The oil seal comes in the kit.

The bearing isn't in bad shape at all. Not as if its a costant velocity one. But i'd rather replace the whole lot if i have the choice. Anyone have any ideas?

I can always ask at the local shop on Monday.

 

Take care & take it easy all. Many thanks for the likes & comments ????

 

 

 

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Is the bearing manufacturer and part number visible on the old one ?

If not, take ID OD and style - caged ball, caged roller, etc to any bearing shop and they can cross reference and/or find a duplicate.

If yours comes without seals, and the replacement you find comes with them, just remove with a screwdriver or a pick.

 

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23 hours ago, seedy said:

Is the bearing manufacturer and part number visible on the old one ?

If not, take ID OD and style - caged ball, caged roller, etc to any bearing shop and they can cross reference and/or find a duplicate.

If yours comes without seals, and the replacement you find comes with them, just remove with a screwdriver or a pick.

 

Sadly its really recessed in there. I'm afraid i would break it knocking it out or damage the shifter rod. I think i may just let it be. Or get it changed in the future. It's a tiny caged roller from what i can tell. Prob 6mm inner. I don't have any puller for this type of bearing. I do remember my old dt 175 back in the day having the same bearing setup.

Edited by Simple Jack
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One solution - take the case to a machine shop. They should be able to pull it out with the correct puller.

If it just acts as a pivot for the clutch arm, and seems OK with not too much side to side play, most likely will be OK.

Does it run in an oil bath, or is it sealed type ?

Edited by seedy
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18 hours ago, seedy said:

One solution - take the case to a machine shop. They should be able to pull it out with the correct puller.

If it just acts as a pivot for the clutch arm, and seems OK with not too much side to side play, most likely will be OK.

Does it run in an oil bath, or is it sealed type ?

I think it just relies on crankcase spash. I'm sure it's in good enough shape to reuse. ????

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3 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

What about new reeds?

Great question mate.

 

I looked everywhere for a more modern cage & reeds. Sadly no options apart from oem. Already fitted ???? Iv'e used V-Force reeds & blocks on the Jog & dio. They really do make a difference. I dont think it's really worth buying carbon reed material & cutting a new set.

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11 hours ago, Damrongsak said:

'Tis a thing of beauty.  Nice work.  Rather interesting cylinder barrel/head shape...

Yea! I think they really made an effort back in the day. It's Aluminium outer with a steel sleeve inner. They sure don't make them like they used too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Longer update for a change.

 

Howdy folks,

 

Today was a good day. The odd small orders have been arriving intermittently. But not the stuff i really needed to get cracking on.

I was cursing after waiting amlost three weeks. Then today the bike gods smiled. I received several packages at once.  Turns out my bhoy &

D&T express decided to bring everthing in one large run. Which i can't complain about.

 

Arrived today:

 

Front brake caliper, front brake master cylinder, ignition coil,  front brake line with the rubbers, con-rod kit, Battery, main bearing set, Gaskets & seals.

 

Cleaned up & painted the mirrors & restored the headlight previously.  Found a spare cheapo tacho & fired it on for a laugh. Spent a few hours today getting the wiring sorted out. I'm happy to report everything works as it should. I was worried about the fuel gauge as it was sitting at 50/50.  I knew the new float sensor was good. As i tested the resistance with travel. Soon as key on. It promptly moved to empty & full when holding the float up. Very happy! Progress!

 

Sadly i don't have the tools nor the experience to fit the new rod kit. So that will be a job for someone else. I think i forgot to mention that the cylinder had

infact been bored out before. 0.25. So i guess it's going to be a 0.50 bore & pistion. Max size i have found is 3.00. So plently of life left on the original.

 

Thanks again for all for the comments & advice. Next update should be the bottom end rebuild. Getting close now. Should be giving it the beans by x-mas ????

 

Take care & take it easy all.

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