Chlorine options?

[tomster]

Hi,

 

I recently moved into a house that had an out of use swimming pool, I had a builder friend of mine regrout it, sort the filter and it's good to go. Pool volume is about 60,000 litres.

 

I have been adding liquid chlorine and cyanuric acid that I have been buying from a local pool supplies company in Pattaya. where the house is located.

 

Works fine but it's a bit of a pain to keep adding the chlorine every day.

 

So, what are the other chlorine options here? I see quite a few types of chlorine in the pool shops but there is never anybody there to explain them, would rather get some up to date practical advice from users here on the forum.

 

Thanks in advance.

[carlyai]

Hi, I've got about 90000 odd L pool. Nearly 6 years old and never had trouble with my saltwater chlorinator. Just thrown in a bag of salt now and again.

 

[unheard]

tomster,

you can start on this site - every info you'll ever need to learn to properly maintain your own pool.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/salt-water-chlorine-generators/

[unheard]

3 hours ago, carlyai said:

Just thrown in a bag of salt now and again.

Not sure exactly what you mean by writing that...

Salt water generators do require a specified by the manufacturer water salt content.

But there's definitely more to it than just throwing in a bag of salt here and there.

It's not as simple as you make it sound.

The key to proper pool maintenance is periodic testing of water chemistry, including for salt levels if equipped with a SWG system.

 

Edited July 19, 2022 by unheard

[tomster]

Thanks Guys,

 

I'm really after some opinions on which type of chlorine tablets/powders to use, from people here using them rather than a dolly bird in a shop...

[Bagwain]

6 minutes ago, tomster said:

Thanks Guys,

 

I'm really after some opinions on which type of chlorine tablets/powders to use, from people here using them rather than a dolly bird in a shop...

PM sent

[carlyai]

1 hour ago, tomster said:

Thanks Guys,

 

I'm really after some opinions on which type of chlorine tablets/powders to use, from people here using them rather than a dolly bird in a shop...

I did send you a pic of the chlorinator I use. 

Anyway, Bagwain with have your answers.

[carlyai]

1 hour ago, unheard said:

Not sure exactly what you mean by writing that...

Salt water generators do require a specified by the manufacturer water salt content.

But there's definitely more to it than just throwing in a bag of salt here and there.

It's not as simple as you make it sound.

The key to proper pool maintenance is periodic testing of water chemistry, including for salt levels if equipped with a SWG system.

 

If you have a closer look at my chlorinator pic. you will see it has a Low Level Chlorine light. When I'm away my wife uses the flashing light warning to add Ch.

I also test the water weekly, but we are talking about Ch here. 

[carlyai]

1 hour ago, tomster said:

Thanks Guys,

 

I'm really after some opinions on which type of chlorine tablets/powders to use, from people here using them rather than a dolly bird in a shop...

Sorry sorry, read your post wrong. You only want the tablets or powder.

[unheard]

20 minutes ago, carlyai said:

I also test the water weekly, but we are talking about Ch here. 

OK, thanks for the clarification.

[SantiSuk]

I have operated my pool with 3 different approaches over the 11 years I've owned it. First was simple manual dosing. Works fine if you don't mind regular contact with raw chlorine in either powder, granule or tablet form; it's cheap because there is no extra equipment to factor into the cost equation and no replacement elements needed to keep that equipment cost element from increasing annual costs.

 

Next I had a salt water chlorination unit installed. Once you've written off the cost of the installation in your mind it's a cheap option (but bear in mind the chlorinator cell unit will need replacing every few years). It's also a very convenient mode. No need to mess with nasty chlorine but you will find yourself humping 25kg bags of salt around every 2-3 weeks or so (and maybe storing a stash if you want to cut costs - factory delivered salt tends to be noticeably cheaper than buying a sack at a time in Global or your local pool shop). It makes a lot of sense to upgrade to the salt chlorination method if you are away from home a lot. If nobody will be swimming in the pool you can probably overdose a bit and go way leaving the chlorinator to do its stuff for a month.
 

Finally I recently (8 months ago) upgraded to UV filtration. Seems like its the least effort method of all three. I just put 300 grams of chlorine every 3 weeks into my 90k litre pool (+ or - 100g if my diary means I am having to dose after 4 or 2 weeks- it's needed to keep the pipes from getting mucky. I love the clarity and freshness of the pool water (except for the couple of days after dosing) thta UV provides. The replacement units plus installation costs make this the most expensive of the 3 options and I haven't yet got the cost profile worked out, but would not be surprised to find its average cost to be 1.2 to 1.5 times salt water chlorination once the replacement UV element has been factored in.
 

Don't let the pros persuade you that manual dosing is prehistoric and messy and that the other alternatives are equally cheap. If you are used to handling chlorine and don't mind spending that bit of regular time doing so then carry on saving yourself a bit of money. Maybe if your pool users don't like the slight chlorination effect on their nose and eyes (only really noticeable for a day or so after dosing) it might persuade you to upgrade at some future point.

Now to your germane point - what type of chlorine for manual dosing? Powder is the cheapest, granules next and tablets the most expensive. Even discounting the slight differences in cost, in my opinion (which others are quite entitled to disagree with) granules win hands down. Powder is a no-no for me. You can't chuck it into the centre of the pool without losing some of it to even a slight breeze (and you'll have to make sure your pets are not around during dosing time). What I like about granules is that if you do get a patch of your pool that is showing some greening on the floor or walls you can target granules to collect at a specific area. A couple of times over the years I have had a problem with grouting at the deep end showing a bit a of green/brown or a particular area of floor doing the same. For problem wall areas or at the bottom edges I use one of those plastic rice spoons (used to take cooked rice out of an electric rice cooker), dip it into the pot of granules and then shake it slowly so that granules drop into the very fringe of the pool or chuck it into the air so it lands over the target floor area - I find granules quite reliable for targeting work; powder is frustrating if you try the same! It sticks in unexpected lumps. Granules float momentarily then drop rewardingly straight down into the bottom edge (if its walls or the bottom corner joint that you are targeting). Works well in stopping the green in its tracks IME. [Of course it helps to have a go with brushing first].

Hope this helps.

[unheard]

6 hours ago, SantiSuk said:

Finally I recently (8 months ago) upgraded to UV filtration.

"UV light can kill pathogens and some of the units also produce some ozone but this only occurs in the contact chamber and there is no residual effect in the pool. Once again, more useful in a spa than a pool."

 

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth.2834/

[tomster]

1 minute ago, unheard said:

"UV light can kill pathogens and some of the units also produce some ozone but this only occurs in the contact chamber and there is no residual effect in the pool. Once again, more useful in a spa than a pool."

 

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth.2834/

So which type of non-liquid chlorine are you suggesting for manual dosing, which is what the thread is about?

[unheard]

9 minutes ago, tomster said:

So which type of non-liquid chlorine are you suggesting for manual dosing, which is what the thread is about?

I don't recommend, don't use and have no helpful info on that type of pool sanitation.

[tomster]

1 minute ago, unheard said:

I don't recommend, don't use and have no helpful info on that type of pool sanitation.

So thanks for your non-input, hopefully that will be the last of it. ????

[Saanim]

23 hours ago, tomster said:

I have been adding liquid chlorine and cyanuric acid that I have been buying from a local pool supplies company in Pattaya. where the house is located.

 

Works fine but it's a bit of a pain to keep adding the chlorine every day.  

So, what are the other chlorine options here?

 

Yes, if you rely only on the chlorine procedure against algae, you have to attend it every day, or have a sophisticated chlorinator.  And of course, daily careful maintenance of pH (mostly lowering), otherwise the chlorine is not effective enough against algae growth. 

 

And if you add the cyanuric acid and not frequently add or exchange the water its the level will grow up (it does not evaporate same as chlorine), with a certain content it hampers balance of other chemicals.

 

That costs not only the daily care but also daily money. If you asked for other options, yes, there is one by copper sulphate (and a bit of a simple chlorine).  I have described it few times here in other threads: No daily care, no pH care.  Disadvantage: it's so cheap.  Then, clear water every day throughout whole year, with simple (and cheap) filtering equipment. 

 

[peterfranks]

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/cl-200-chlorine-dispenser-i2133822198.html?

 

[Bagwain]

As SantiSuk has alluded too. 90% Granular chlorine is the go.

Be aware that is has a pH of 7 and has cynuric acid in it. (Meaning the acidity of the water will always drop to below acceptable levels)!

This causes the pH to drop considerably needed counter measures such as soda ash to correct and bring back up to correct measures.

Bit of an art to get the natives to know how to do this correctly!

If not done correctly you will get degridation of the grout & pool surface finish happening in NO time!

 

[unheard]

????

Edited July 19, 2022 by unheard

[Bagwain]

20 minutes ago, Saanim said:

Yes, if you rely only on the chlorine procedure against algae, you have to attend it every day, or have a sophisticated chlorinator.  And of course, daily careful maintenance of pH (mostly lowering), otherwise the chlorine is not effective enough against algae growth. 

 

And if you add the cyanuric acid and not frequently add or exchange the water its the level will grow up (it does not evaporate same as chlorine), with a certain content it hampers balance of other chemicals.

 

That costs not only the daily care but also daily money. If you asked for other options, yes, there is one by copper sulphate (and a bit of a simple chlorine).  I have described it few times here in other threads: No daily care, no pH care.  Disadvantage: it's so cheap.  Then, clear water every day throughout whole year, with simple (and cheap) filtering equipment. 

 

Missleading information as always!

Control of pH comes down to which type of chlorine being used, make up water & alkalinity!

There is more than one type of algae.

Copper sulphate only assists and doesn't kill viruses & hardy bacteria.

Bather load, weather, local conditions are other factors which you seem to have NO idea about!

 

I understand you are trying to help, however one size doesn't fit all.

Plus you constant bagging of the people in the industry is sad.

Why don't you go down the road and give the hardware store a hard time for making a living and profit?

 

 

 

 

[Saanim]

13 hours ago, Bagwain said:

Missleading information as always!

Control of pH comes down to which type of chlorine being used, make up water & alkalinity!

There is more than one type of algae.

Copper sulphate only assists and doesn't kill viruses & hardy bacteria.

Bather load, weather, local conditions are other factors which you seem to have NO idea about!

 

I understand you are trying to help, however one size doesn't fit all.

Plus you constant bagging of the people in the industry is sad.

Why don't you go down the road and give the hardware store a hard time for making a living and profit?

The pH level has no (substantial) influence on Copper Sulphate efficacy. And the small amount of weekly chlorine is for an additional help what the CS hasn't finished and for improving water clarity. And for some kind of precaution against bad bacteria. And if the chlorine is not engaged for algae fight the pH level does not matter either. 

 

For humans the pH level is also no problem, drinking water standards allow 6.5 - 9.5. But we do not drink the pool water, do we?

 

I would not know what I am doing wrong that my water is permanently so good, all that with minimal care and minimal money.  Everybody is free to manage as per his idea, I do not promote anything. Just reporting how it works for me, for my daily swimming to keep myself in good form, experience over 18 years.

 

This forum is for exchanging one's experience, not for one's promotion. It's not me who is here constant bagging anybody. Perhaps you should watch your rhetoric.