Build your own desk?

[Snugs08]

Thinking rather than buy a standard 150cm wide x 60cm depth x 75cm height desk, by desk I mean basically a practical table for computer and few LCD monitors - no silly slide out keyboard tray and all the other <deleted> that gets in the way of ergonomics, maybe it's within my limited DIY skill to build one. Comparison would be https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1160950

 

Thinking

https://www.thaiwatsadu.com/th/product/ไม้บอร์ดยางพาราประสาน-BOON-WOOD-รุ่น-เกรด-CC-ขนาด-122-x-244-x-14-ซม-สีธรรมชาติ-60319527?aglquery=ec71b3d3f653559a8551f7f313c8c68a

Is this the right wood?

 

Wall is about 2.2m wide would want it flush again both ends of the wall - no door in the way or things sticking out - why not?

 

I want a bit more depth than the normal 60cm desk. So thinking 75cm depth. So 2.2m x 75m

 

Cut it size. https://www.homepro.co.th/p/117962

How to cut straight? Or would thai watsadu cut it down the middle at 75cm if asked ?

 

6 legs - I would place the middle legs about 130cm so it would be leg <-130cm -> leg < - 90 cm > leg

https://www.ikea.com/th/en/p/adils-leg-black-00217976/#content

 

 

Is this practical - even with the tool it costs almost same as buying a desk?

 

How to ensure its flush against the back wall and sides? Do I leave a gap for expansion of wood? Is there a way to hide this gap?

 

Do I need to mount to the wall?

 

Is this practical? For bonus points name three ways a person with near zero DIY skills could mess this up

 

Thanks in advance for any constructive input.

 

[Snugs08]

Seems Ikea leg won't do its 70cm which is far too low. Where can I get a 74cm leg?

[Snugs08]

Maybe 2 of these

https://www.thaiwatsadu.com/th/product/ไม้ระแนงสนรัสเซีย-SAK-WOODWORKS-รุ่น-BTNS404025-ขนาด-4-x-250-x-4-ซม-(แพ็ก-4-แผ่น)-สีธรรมชาติ-60286469?cate=520303

 

Cut each to 72.5cm and screw in 4 of these

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/44-t-nut-38-16-i3377463245-s12492313078.html

 

Balance it with a spirit level at the required height of about 75cm

 

I dropped the idea that this will be cheaper than an off the shelf desk, but it sure looks fun... really want to get into DIY

[Crossy]

That Homepro metal framed desk/table you linked to could easily have a replacement top of the dimensions you want installed.

 

If you can get a piece of 15mm rubberwood sheet (it's made of lots of small blocks bonded together), plywood or MDF cut to size then it's simply a case of sanding it and applying some kind of surface finish.

 

We have a number of folding tables which had chipboard tops. Over the years these fell apart but the frames were fine. New tops using the above material and they are good for many more years (they look better too).

 

This is the stuff https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/1219866900014

 

[Snugs08]

1 minute ago, Crossy said:

That Homepro metal framed desk/table you linked to could easily have a replacement top of the dimensions you want installed.

 

If you can get a piece of 15mm rubberwood sheet (it's made of lots of small blocks bonded together), plywood or MDF cut to size then it's simply a case of sanding it and applying some kind of surface finish.

 

We have a number of folding tables which had chipboard tops. Over the years these fell apart but the frames were fine. New tops using the above material and they are good for many more years (they look better too).

 

Thanks this is very interesting - and all new to a newbie like. The desk above has a beam across front but I suspect that  can be unscrewed for my non-standard length requirements or maybe cut, or wait, are you saying just balance the 220m across with that in the middle giving legs 35cm in on each side, interesting.

 

By fell apart do you mean eventually sagging? Is 15mm enough to prevent sagging if say 3 large 24" monitors and my pressure on the keyboard etc.. ? I've had sagging before on cheap 120cm desk, I think this question is mute if I retain the beam

 

What kind of surface finish do I need to use? Do I need a sander too or will a bit hand sanding work?

[Crossy]

From the photos this https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1160950 looks like it has a full steel frame so the top would just unscrew. There are similar items not branded as "desk" which are rather cheaper too. 

https://globalhouse.co.th/Fillter/search/1?q=folding table

 

The frame would prevent any sag in the middle where most of your load would be. The 35cm overhang on each end would likely be OK but there's nothing to stop you adding a glued doubler underneath (you would have spare material from the top) which would add significant rigidity. Extending the steel frame would probably be outside your scope ???? 

 

The chipboard/Formica tops just aged, the Formica started to look tatty and the chipboard got the damp in, chipboard really doesn't like the damp.

 

I rounded off the edges with a router, but simply sanding off the sharp corners would serve.

 

Finish with a polyurethane stain of a colour to your liking and the job's a good un.

 

I'm not sure where one would get the material cut to size as I have the necessary kit to do the job. If you let us know where you are hopefully someone will have suggestions.

 

 

 

[OneMoreFarang]

As a possible alternative, I build my own table with aluminium profiles and a glass top.

 

You can buy profiles in standard size or cut to the length which you want from this and other companies:

http://www.thepearlcorp.com/

 

The material is like this. My desk looks obviously a lot better - at least the part which I see under all that clutter. ???? 

 

 

[OneMoreFarang]

I find these things interesting. I bought two for a worktable.

https://www.ikea.com/th/th/p/mittback-trestle-birch-50459996/

 

 

[ignis]

Quote

What kind of surface finish do I need to use? Do I need a sander too or will a bit hand sanding work?

What about a nice Mouse Mat  ?

 

My own mouse mat is 120 x 55  .....  my desk is 180 x 80   the odd 33 cm to wall is taken up with a low cupboard with my full size tower PC.

[Crossy]

4 minutes ago, ignis said:

My own mouse mat is 120 x 55

 

More of a "mouse carpet" ???? 

 

Sounds interesting, you got a link to where you got the beast?

 

[Snugs08]

4 minutes ago, Crossy said:

From the photos this https://www.homepro.co.th/p/1160950 looks like it has a full steel frame so the top would just unscrew. There are similar items not branded as "desk" which are rather cheaper too. 

https://globalhouse.co.th/Fillter/search/1?q=folding table

 

The frame would prevent any sag in the middle where most of your load would be. The 35cm overhang on each end would likely be OK but there's nothing to stop you adding a glued doubler underneath (you would have spare material from the top) which would add significant rigidity. Extending the steel frame would probably be outside your scope ???? 

 

The chipboard/Formica tops just aged, the Formica started to look tatty and the chipboard got the damp in, chipboard really doesn't like the damp.

 

I rounded off the edges with a router, but simply sanding off the sharp corners would serve.

 

Finish with a polyurethane stain of a colour to your liking and the job's a good un.

 

I'm not sure where one would get the material cut to size as I have the necessary kit to do the job. If you let us know where you are hopefully someone will have suggestions.

 

 

 

Bangna area, Bangkok, the nearest big DIY store is Thai Watsadu just before Mega Bangna I think but Im sure Ive seen smaller merchants but I cant recall where. On the kit issue I probably going to buy some tools anyway so I'm comfortable spending a few  thousand on some basics power tools but if they do the big cut to 70cm width I'd probably be happy to let them handle that and use the tools to make use of the excess wood.

 

 

Quote

Extending the steel frame would probably be outside your scope ???? 

Absolutely ????

 

On staining - is this simple enough? I remember wood work in school where we had to varnish our little wooden creations, mail racks etc, and I don't think anyone made it look good with uneven blobs etc.. here and there

[OneMoreFarang]

39 minutes ago, Crossy said:

If you can get a piece of 15mm rubberwood sheet (it's made of lots of small blocks bonded together), plywood or MDF cut to size then it's simply a case of sanding it and applying some kind of surface finish.

Can you or others maybe explain a little which wood product is best for a tabletop, legs, etc.

 

A few weeks ago, I looked in Lazada and I found this HMR.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2880947772-s10513009651.html

 

I guess it will do the job, but I don't know how it compares to your suggestions above. And what is a reasonable thickness for a tabletop, in my case for a worktop. Is 18mm ok? Too thin? Too thick? Thanks

[Crossy]

1 minute ago, Snugs08 said:

On staining - is this simple enough? I remember wood work in school where we had to varnish our little wooden creations, mail racks etc, and I don't think anyone made it look good with uneven blobs etc.. here and there

 

Argh! I remember woodwork too. Luckily, I changed schools and woodwork wasn't an option I think I did metalwork and tech-drawing instead.

 

Modern finishes are pretty forgiving, just make sure everything is clean and dust-free and you're good to go.

 

[ignis]

4 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

More of a "mouse carpet" ???? 

 

Sounds interesting, you got a link to where you got the beast?

 

https://shopee.co.th/Metoo-1200X550mm-XXXL-Mouse-Pad-Rubber-Locking-Edge-Super-Large-Mouse-Mat-for-Dota-2-LOL-CSGO-for-Game-Player-Mousepadl-i.890377731.19961927707?sp_atk=33b5f82e-7fac-414b-888a-ccf8eb29fe7d&xptdk=33b5f82e-7fac-414b-888a-ccf8eb29fe7d

[Snugs08]

3 minutes ago, ignis said:

https://shopee.co.th/Metoo-1200X550mm-XXXL-Mouse-Pad-Rubber-Locking-Edge-Super-Large-Mouse-Mat-for-Dota-2-LOL-CSGO-for-Game-Player-Mousepadl-i.890377731.19961927707?sp_atk=33b5f82e-7fac-414b-888a-ccf8eb29fe7d&xptdk=33b5f82e-7fac-414b-888a-ccf8eb29fe7d

I dont need a big mouse mat for any particular use-case but this looks good for removing the ridge/bump of a normal size mouse mat and as cushioning for the palm of hand, interesting. Current black mouse mat looks like it need to go in the washing machine yesterday though and most of ones had prior - does this one stay clean, need washing regularly?

[Snugs08]

22 minutes ago, OneMoreFarang said:

As a possible alternative, I build my own table with aluminium profiles and a glass top.

 

You can buy profiles in standard size or cut to the length which you want from this and other companies:

http://www.thepearlcorp.com/

 

The material is like this. My desk looks obviously a lot better - at least the part which I see under all that clutter. ???? 

 

 

How much does this work out as price wise? Probably keep with wood for my work desk but this gives me an idea for something in the kitchen

[Crossy]

5 minutes ago, OneMoreFarang said:

Can you or others maybe explain a little which wood product is best for a tabletop, legs, etc.

 

A few weeks ago, I looked in Lazada and I found this HMR.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2880947772-s10513009651.html

 

I guess it will do the job, but I don't know how it compares to your suggestions above. And what is a reasonable thickness for a tabletop, in my case for a worktop. Is 18mm ok? Too thin? Too thick? Thanks

 

I like the natural wood look, so the rubberwood board is my go-to, it's 16mm thick. 

 

The HMR looks promising if you don't mind the finish. https://olhomemalaysia.com/what-is-hmr-hdf-mdf/

 

 

[mahjongguy]

I'm having a house built and I've specified the use of a row of standard kitchen cabinets to build an office area. Just mentioning.

 

Years ago, when I had three CRT monitors that weighed more than 40 kilos each, I went to the big builder's supply store and bought a solid core interior door. I also went from one furniture store to the next until I found one selling metal table legs. Put one in each corner plus a 5th one in the middle of the back edge for extra stability. Since the table was free-standing, I had no need to get it cut to a specific size.

 

Probably a door (80cm x 200 cm) is much more than you need, just wanted to mention that it worked well for me at the time.

 

     

[Snugs08]

20 minutes ago, mahjongguy said:

I'm having a house built and I've specified the use of a row of standard kitchen cabinets to build an office area. Just mentioning.

 

Do you mean the cabinets on each side, instead of top to bottom legs, a big 100cm+ gap for legs? That would work I guess, presuming kitchen cabs go back more 60cm depth, need more than that for my legs pushing against the wall at the moment, 70cm would work I think. Won't that push the height to > 80cm based on standard kitchen cabs at 80cm plus worktop? would need a special chair or raised platform to avoid crippling ergonomics there?

[OneMoreFarang]

1 hour ago, Snugs08 said:

How much does this work out as price wise? Probably keep with wood for my work desk but this gives me an idea for something in the kitchen

I think I paid about 5,000 THB for all the (cut to size) aluminium parts for a desk. This includes lots of parts which are not strictly necessary. And the glass plate, tempered glass, was extra. 

I will do that again in the near future for at least one more table. I like the look and the flexibility of the construction. And all the parts are easy to disassemble and reassemble in a different way again. 

The sales from Peal react fast to emails and they give you precise quotations. They are also on Lazada and it's easy to look up prices of basic parts.

[OneMoreFarang]

46 minutes ago, Snugs08 said:

Won't that push the height to > 80cm based on standard kitchen cabs at 80cm plus worktop? would need a special chair or raised platform to avoid crippling ergonomics there?

Some kitchen cabinets, i.e. from IKEA, have about 10cm legs. It would be easy to lower the height by using shorter legs.

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, Snugs08 said:

On staining - is this simple enough? I remember wood work in school where we had to varnish our little wooden creations, mail racks etc, and I don't think anyone made it look good with uneven blobs etc.. here and there

It is very easy, depending on the equipment you have and the colour you want. 

 

the best way is to stain using shellac then polyurethane over the shellac you can get anywhere from a pale blond to a black. Here are a few of the colours available (that I like). There are 4 or 5 brands all slightly different.

 

with shellac its alcohol soluble so you can dilute it if you want. It is my first finish often without colour. Then a water based shellac over 

this is the best polyurethane 

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

A few weeks ago, I looked in Lazada and I found this HMR.

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2880947772-s10513009651.html

 

I guess it will do the job, but I don't know how it compares to your suggestions above.

That is only suitable if it is being painted and it can never get wet.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

I like the natural wood look, so the rubberwood board is my go-to, it's 16mm thick. 

Rubber wood  which is the same as Boon Wood is an excellent material and is almost white, though there are more thicknesses than 16mm, I have 20mm & 25mm in my stash, there are also different grades, the lower ones have bark inclusions. Also most panels are finger jointed rather than but jointed 

[OneMoreFarang]

16 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

That is only suitable if it is being painted and it can never get wet.

Are you sure?

'HMR' stands for 'high moisture resistance'

 

From Google:

'HMR' stands for 'high moisture resistance' and is arguably the best material for a vanity cabinet – especially one that's in the bathroom where lots of moisture, steam and water are splashed all over your bathroom furniture every single day.

[TimeMachine]

Thinking of hinging a table top to the wall so that it can fold up out of the way when not needed. Anybody done this. Useful idea or annoying because can't be moved around? 

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, OneMoreFarang said:

Are you sure?

'HMR' stands for 'high moisture resistance'

Absolutely. The key words are moisture resistance not water proof.

 

I can guarantee that unless totally protected from water the material will swell. It is probably ok in an environment that has occasional, or even frequent, high humidity.

 

In water contact for anything but brief periods dried off immediately it will not function well.

 

The benefits attributed are from the manufacture of the material not from the users

[mahjongguy]

5 hours ago, Snugs08 said:

Do you mean the cabinets on each side, instead of top to bottom legs, a big 100cm+ gap for legs? That would work I guess, presuming kitchen cabs go back more 60cm depth, need more than that for my legs pushing against the wall at the moment, 70cm would work I think. Won't that push the height to > 80cm based on standard kitchen cabs at 80cm plus worktop? would need a special chair or raised platform to avoid crippling ergonomics there?

Sorry, I wrote that poorly. I meant they will be standard, with backsplash,  hinged doors and/or drawers, just as you would see in most modern kitchens. But actually not standard because they will be custom built to slightly different dimensions from those in the kitchen.

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, TimeMachine said:

Thinking of hinging a table top to the wall so that it can fold up out of the way when not needed. Anybody done this. Useful idea or annoying because can't be moved around? 

It is totally dependent on the uses you have for it. If it is going to have things on it usually, then it’s not a good idea. If from time to time you want an extra surface that you know is going to be folded down usually, it is an excellent idea.

 

I currently have two sets of folding/fold down brackets that are waiting for a good place to be used. 
 

Something like an ironing board is an extremely good use for this.

[sometimewoodworker]

In fact I forgot that I have a hinge up shelf for ease of laundry access.
It is virtually always hinged down,

 

has nothing but a cat that sits on it,

 

doesn’t get much use but is great when needed.