Specific EV Questions

[Yodarapper]

14 minutes ago, Pib said:

See...finding out your home had three phase power made all the difference.  

 

And I recommend you keep in simple with your wall charger...like one that does not use/need an app to operate it.   Just need a RFID card you wave in front of it to turn it off and on for charging.    A lot of the fancy chargers are just way too expensive....keep it simple...it will also cost you a lot less.

Cheers, yes I tihnk the Zencar is the cheapest and I read it has no wifi or app.....

 

Let's see....Im still undecided, was looking at some second hand corolla crosses today....noooooooo, this is way to difficult!!!!!

[Pib]

7 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

Cheers, yes I tihnk the Zencar is the cheapest and I read it has no wifi or app.....

 

Let's see....Im still undecided, was looking at some second hand corolla crosses today....noooooooo, this is way to difficult!!!!!

It seems difficult to you right now (just like when first learning to ride a bike), but after the light blub comes on in your brain (i.e., wow, I understand now) you'll think to yourself "why did I think this was hard to figure out" because it's not really hard at all/turned out to be not really hard at all like you thought it might.

Edited yesterday at 01:47 PM by Pib

[Yodarapper]

5 minutes ago, Pib said:

It seems difficult to you right now (just like when first learning to ride a bike), but after the light blub comes on in your brain (i.e., wow, I I understand now) you'll think to yourself "why did I think this was hard to figure out" because it's not really hard at all.  

 

I get that but I think for me it's the uncertainty...I like the idea and I love the Atto 3.....compared to other cars Ive test driven in my budget like the Yaris Cross......it's feel so much better.....but it's the uncertainty of if I will be in Thailand for x amount of years....and if going electric now is a wise choice....:(

[Pib]

Just now, Yodarapper said:

 

I get that but I think for me it's the uncertainty...I like the idea and I love the Atto 3.....compared to other cars Ive test driven in my budget like the Yaris Cross......it's feel so much better.....but it's the uncertainty of if I will be in Thailand for x amount of years....and if going electric now is a wise choice....:(

If the uncertainty is that great and you really don't drive that much now, just stick with a used vehicle....probably an used ICEV.

[richard_smith237]

Just on a note about charging etc...     The wife does most of the driving, school runs and her stuff about town etc... 

We had to run a few errands today, myself included, then pick up my son from school... 

We got in the car and it was something in the region of 25% charge.

 

We did what we needed to quickly in town, then drove out to our sons school on the way, stopped off at a PTT station and ran a Fast Charge while we grabbed a quick bite to eat...   we were up to 76% by the time we got back to the car.

 

Thus: the uncertainty of 'being out and about' and getting caught with the pant down and low charge is not really a concern unless on an extremely tight time bomb... 

 

 

Wife did ask - what happens if stuck in a major traffic Jam for hours (it happened to friends a few weeks ago when one of the lanes was blocked in Sukhumvit 39 cycle lane debacle) - I think the car goes into 'low battery mode' turns off the AC etc and goes 'full eco' in a worst case scenario.

But - realistically, I don't ever expect that to happen - after running rudimentary calcs - the car would have to be sitting stationary in a traffic jam for approx 22 hours to run out of power (from 50% with Air conditioning on) 

 

Assumptions: 

Base vehicle electronics (infotainment, lights, etc.): ~0.5 kW.

Air conditioning: ~1.5 kW (for cooling in warm weather).

No other electronics being charged.

Total estimated consumption: 2.0 kW.

Time to deplete the battery: 50% Battery: 44 kWh ÷ 2.0 kW = 22 hours.

 

 

 

[Pib]

I agree with above approx estimates. 

 

I have used OBD2 data (i.e., an OBD2 reader with OBD app) to monitor various metrics on my BYD Atto Extended range with 60.5KW battery.   With OBD data you can usually measure some metrics to greater accuracy than what is displayed on the car's digital dashboard/infotainment displays.  Like power usage can be measured to two decimal points vs just a whole number.

 

Like power usage (i.e., KW)  as you drive along.  On the Atto (and I expect all BYD EVs) the amount of KW being used as you drive along, set/stuck in traffic, etc., is only displayed as a "whole" number....like 0KW, 1KW, 2KW, 20KW, 30KW, etc....no decimal point readout.  While only displaying to a  whole number is all that needed to quickly & easily display approximate power usage for everyday driving if you need/want to know how much power you are really using like when stuck in traffic/idling in hot weather where the dashboard is showing low power usage (i.e., like only a 1 or 2KW) "and" you are really low on battery then only a whole number power usage readout can be deceiving. 

 

By "deceiving" I mean you could be using almost twice as much KW when stuck in traffic/idling than what is being displayed on the card dashboard because of the way the BYD system "rounds" to the newest whole number for power usage.  Whether actually using 1KW or 1.99KW the car's dashboard will display display 1KW although you could actually being using 1.99KW which is twice the power.  If the dashboard is displaying 2KW it could really be as high a 2.99KW actually being used.

 

If it's not too hot of day, you are running the A/C but the car is already cooled down to where the electric AC compressor is no longer running loud & hard and say you are idling/stuck in a traffic jam wondering if you ever get to where you are going, your dashboard could be displaying 0 (zero) KW usage....but actually you could be using 0.99KW.  If the dashboard is displaying 1KW you could actually be using 1KW to 1.99KW.....if displaying 2KW you could actually be using 2KW to 2.99KW, etc.  

 

What I have found in my OBD data monitoring which reports two decimal point of KW being used (or regenerated)  when the Atto is running with no A/C or fan, repeat, off, then the car is really using approx 0.3KW (300 watts).   And the running lights only using approx 0.04KW (40 watts) of that 0.3KW.  So turning off your running lights to save a little power  won't really help much to decease battery usage.  Low beam headlights use approx 0.08KW (80 watts) and high bean approx 0.120KW (120 watts).  All measured using OBD2 data which reports power usage to two decimal points vs just a whole number.

 

And as nice to know, when you are braking and regenerating KW when the display is say showing a minus 7KW being generated it will really be between a -7 to -7.99KW,....say, -1KW is displaying then it's really -1 to -1.99KW.   Just the way BYD rounds and displays power usage/regeneration.

 

So, knowing how BYD vehicles "rounds the display for KW being used/regenerated"  if I was stuck in traffic with say 10% battery SOC (which would be around 6KW of my Atto's 60KW battery), A/C turned on to cool of my "hot-under-the-collar attitude due to the traffic jam, headlights even turned on, and the dashboard showing 1KW power usage (which could really be as high as 1.99KW), I know I could really set idling in that traffic jam without moving an inch for at least 3 hours if really using 1.99KW.  And if It  was really using 1KW then around 6 hours...but it's best to round-up to the next whole KW number to play it safe.   Roll the windows down and just turn the A/C and fan off to where the car is only drawing 0.3KW (300 watts) and I could idle in that daytime traffic jam for 20 hours before the battery hit 0% SoC.

 

Yeap, if getting stuck in a traffic jam and running out of juice then you have really let your battery get way, way too low before you started your trip.....you are gambling on smooth traffic the whole way....just blame yourself.   Gosh, about the only time I let my Atto drop below 25% SoC is when I have decided to run it down to 10% or below followed by a charge to 100% for the battery BMS recalibration that BYD recommends be done every 3 to 6 months to keep your SoC display accurate.  

 

 

 

 

[Pib]

Here's an example of the KW usage while idling in traffic on a cloudy 30C day when the AC did not have to work that hard....car dashboard shows 1KW being used but OBD data shows it's really 1.89KW...durn near 2KW.  See circled numbers.

 

[KhunLA]

We use about 2% or 1 kWh, per hour, w/ MG ZS, at idle, full power, AC on, high fan.

[Yodarapper]

I thought the atto3 was the car to go but I am seeing there are other options that cna do longer ranges. Is there a better alternative in the same ballpark price wise that can do longer range?

 

I’ve kept my appointment tomorrow to go and see the car again….

[UWEB]

36 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

I thought the atto3 was the car to go but I am seeing there are other options that cna do longer ranges. Is there a better alternative in the same ballpark price wise that can do longer range?

 

I’ve kept my appointment tomorrow to go and see the car again….

I would stay with the Atto3 ext. Range. Was my first intention as well to buy one, but finally I bought a Seal.

[Yodarapper]

What about the m6 - that has a range of 520 km? That’s a lot more than the atto3 right?

the Kia EV 5 also has more range?

[vinny41]

21 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

What about the m6 - that has a range of 520 km? That’s a lot more than the atto3 right?

the Kia EV 5 also has more range?

Kia EV 5 price range from B1,299,000 – 1,799,000 

Light / Air Maximum driving distance per full charge is 490 kilometers (NEDC standard).

Earth Long Range Maximum driving distance per full charge is 665 kilometers (NEDC standard).

Earth Exclusive AWD Maximum driving distance per full charge is 620 kilometers (NEDC standard).

EV5 Earth Long Range : 1,599,000 baht

EV5 Earth Exclusive AWD : 1,799,000 baht

Atto 3 480 Extended Range   899,900 baht during Motor show

So nearly B700K extra  for EV5 Earth compared to atto 3 480 extended