Doubling Up Connections on Breakers

[carlyai]

Doubling up connections on breakers is not good practice, (I read this after I wired the CU up) so I decided to rewire to remove the double up breaker connections.

Having another look the box is probably too small for all the 6mm2 cables and probably cause more problems by connecting 6 cables to the RHS terminal block.

At the moment it all working at 16A but I want to bump the charge current up the 32A. 

I could try it like it is and monitor it with my heat-sensing camera.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Also: I have my pool equipment on the same feed. It draws about 8A when running.

I need to design a cct. like:

 

If the current is greater than 5A, don't charge EV, if not charge, repeat.

I need some relays and comparator I think.

Any bits of electronics that can help with my design?

 

[Dan O]

5 minutes ago, carlyai said:

Doubling up connections on breakers is not good practice, (I read this after I wired the CU up) so I decided to rewire to remove the double up breaker connections.

Having another look the box is probably too small for all the 6mm2 cables and probably cause more problems by connecting 6 cables to the RHS terminal block.

At the moment it all working at 16A but I want to bump the charge current up the 32A. 

I could try it like it is and monitor it with my heat-sensing camera.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Also: I have my pool equipment on the same feed. It draws about 8A when running.

I need to design a cct. like:

 

If the current is greater than 5A, don't charge EV, if not charge, repeat.

I need some relays and comparator I think.

Any bits of electronics that can help with my design?

 

did you design this set up and wire all this up yourself?

[Crossy]

For your current sensing have a look at these https://www.lazada.co.th/products/m3050-m3056-ac-current-detection-alarm-03a-30-v50-v-current-sensing-switch-i5132554704-s21673895200.html?

 

You'll need a contactor to control the car charger.

 

[Crossy]

Provided your wires are about the same size and the total doesn't exceed the terminal size limit doubling up isn't too bad, it's done all the time in the UK for ring finals.

 

You could get double entry ferrules and crimp both wires in there then into the terminal.

[carlyai]

46 minutes ago, Dan O said:

did you design this set up and wire all this up yourself?

Yep a bit rough I know.

[carlyai]

48 minutes ago, Dan O said:

did you design this set up and wire all this up yourself?

[carlyai]

37 minutes ago, Crossy said:

For your current sensing have a look at these https://www.lazada.co.th/products/m3050-m3056-ac-current-detection-alarm-03a-30-v50-v-current-sensing-switch-i5132554704-s21673895200.html?

 

You'll need a contactor to control the car charger.

 

https://img.lazcdn.com/g/ff/kf/S432269cb5aaa40e98f2115c633de22bdF.jpg_2200x2200q80.jpg_.webp

Thanks. I hate them camels, angry buggers.

 

Mount another box above the present box with the contactor etc.

[Dan O]

26 minutes ago, carlyai said:

Yep a bit rough I know.

It past a bit rough a while ago. I would redo the box with a larger panel and wire it properly 

[carlyai]

3 minutes ago, Dan O said:

It past a bit rough a while ago. I would redo the box with a larger panel and wire it properly 

Yeah.....Nu

[Crossy]

33 minutes ago, Dan O said:

It past a bit rough a while ago. I would redo the box with a larger panel and wire it properly 

 

Call it a "proof of concept" 

[Fruit Trader]

MCB's or DIN rail devices of reasonable quality will have caged clamp down terminals. These should accommodate two single or 7 strand cables up to 6mm without ferrules.
 

 

[BritManToo]

1 hour ago, Crossy said:

Provided your wires are about the same size and the total doesn't exceed the terminal size limit doubling up isn't too bad, it's done all the time in the UK for ring finals.

 

You could get double entry ferrules and crimp both wires in there then into the terminal.

The electrician fitting my EV charger point doubled up the EV socket with the 4kw bathroom shower last weekend 32a MCB. 

[carlyai]

2 hours ago, Dan O said:

It past a bit rough a while ago. I would redo the box with a larger panel and wire it properly 

Can you show me some of your currently wired equipment, so you can learn me?

[Dan O]

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Call it a "proof of concept" 

Compared to the original wiring in my house here this is next level work!

[carlyai]

6 minutes ago, Dan O said:

Compared to the original wiring in my house here this is next level work!

Waiting ....show me how to improve myself. 🙂

[Dan O]

1 hour ago, carlyai said:

Can you show me some of your currently wired equipment, so you can learn me?

I'm not an electrician but have replaced wiring and installed a solar panel system.  You can do a search on the internet as well.   That box is just way to small (size wise for me) and the use of those terminal blocks and doubling circuits isn't good long term. 

 

Below is what I started from at the farm and the second was my quick change over and then cleaned up farther after I traced out each circuit and broke them up. 

[JBChiangRai]

You could consider a timer and 2 way contactor.

 

Power is supplied to pool on contactor NC poles, timer adjustable to 8 hours (typically 1,2,4,8 hours selectable), when selected NC opens and NO to EV charger closes.

 

Contactors are available everywhere, I'm sure you can find a timing module on AliExpress or Lazada.

 

 

[carlyai]

5 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

MCB's or DIN rail devices of reasonable quality will have caged clamp down terminals. These should accommodate two single or 7 strand cables up to 6mm without ferrules.
 

 

@Fruit Trader where do you get diagrams like this please?

I was having a senior moment with a 2 outlet power socket with 2 on/off switches and it all fell to pieces. Can get most back together but have 4 clips that a diagram like this would help me with.

 

[xtrnuno41]

The hole on the bottom of your box is not insulated.

Your live wire and others are going there. If maybe by vibration wires start to scratch on that hole, you can have your box on power. It must be insulated.

Simple by taking a piece of rubber hose, cut it half and slide over metal.

The life wire is coming in and first passes a transformer before ending up on rail.

It means there is always power on the rail and only goes off somewhere else!

The rail has always power on it, not handy, safe. Live wire FIRST to switch.

Maybe at one time, you forget your wiring and you THINK all is off and you ll have the surprise of your life, maybe last one ever.

Note the clamps are not insulated, most all other ones are. And that is the LIVE wire. 

Your ground wire to rod looks very small, the thicker , the better.

I guess you put the groundwire of the box, screw on rail, down as better space between live wire? As long as that screw is making good contact with box. Would have taken the upper, less wiring in box.

Your box is metal and need to be grounded.

 

I would have taken, the now ground block, as feed for live. Then connect RCBO's live on it and also the surge. No double connections, all their separate lines. For ground buy new block and connect them on there. Ofcourse insulated or you must fix it tight on box, however Thailand and little screws. Well maybe tiny self tappers.

 

Crossy showed a detector, however weird thing. Device says 240 VAC as well in datasheet and in drawing they say 12, 20 V DC.

Relais in series with power. you have to implement a VDR, volt depending resistor. for eliminating inductive power of mechanical relais and protect output of device.

Must say they are hard to find, mostly they take action in own , measuring line and not another.

 

 

[carlyai]

8 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

The hole on the bottom of your box is not insulated.

Your live wire and others are going there. If maybe by vibration wires start to scratch on that hole, you can have your box on power. It must be insulated.

Simple by taking a piece of rubber hose, cut it half and slide over metal.

The life wire is coming in and first passes a transformer before ending up on rail.

It means there is always power on the rail and only goes off somewhere else!

The rail has always power on it, not handy, safe. Live wire FIRST to switch.

Maybe at one time, you forget your wiring and you THINK all is off and you ll have the surprise of your life, maybe last one ever.

Note the clamps are not insulated, most all other ones are. And that is the LIVE wire. 

Your ground wire to rod looks very small, the thicker , the better.

I guess you put the groundwire of the box, screw on rail, down as better space between live wire? As long as that screw is making good contact with box. Would have taken the upper, less wiring in box.

Your box is metal and need to be grounded.

 

I would have taken, the now ground block, as feed for live. Then connect RCBO's live on it and also the surge. No double connections, all their separate lines. For ground buy new block and connect them on there. Ofcourse insulated or you must fix it tight on box, however Thailand and little screws. Well maybe tiny self tappers.

 

Crossy showed a detector, however weird thing. Device says 240 VAC as well in datasheet and in drawing they say 12, 20 V DC.

Relais in series with power. you have to implement a VDR, volt depending resistor. for eliminating inductive power of mechanical relais and protect output of device.

Must say they are hard to find, mostly they take action in own , measuring line and not another.

 

 

 

Thanks you for your reply.

 

First time wiring with 6mm2 cable and realise I need a bigger box and better planning.

 

The white box is plastic and there is black insulation around the rectangular hole for the incoming power.

 

I think (will check) it's OK to bring incoming power to a terminal block first but should have the insulation cover over the terminal block. The terminal block is in the wrong position, but had to mount it there as the box too small.

 

Thanks again.