If I can I want to buy some of the doubled-up wired connectors to the breakers. An example is the top connections into the DC breaker.

Do they have a name for ordering?

 

24 minutes ago, carlyai said:

If I can I want to buy some of the doubled-up wired connectors to the breakers. An example is the top connections into the DC breaker.

Do they have a name for ordering?

 

Why don't you just take this photo to a shop that sells electrical components. Not expensive

I'm sure.

I'd call them pig tails but i'm sure thats not the proper name, easy enough to make. I'd be surprised if they sold them but this is Thailand

Just twist join the cables and heat-shrink accordingly. The heat-shrink isn't really necessary, but does look good. 

1 hour ago, dinsdale said:

Why don't you just take this photo to a shop that sells electrical components. Not expensive

I'm sure.

200 km round trip.

These can be used.

https://www.amazon.com/KOXXIAMOQ-Ferrules-Terminals-Insulated-Connectors/dp/B0CCYKXFFV

Cable Ferrules

 

 

2 minutes ago, carlyai said:

200 km round trip.

Ah! Ok then. I don't know what they're called. Where are you? 

17 minutes ago, carlyai said:

200 km round trip.

A photo to Shopee, Lazada or RADIOSPARES.

If you do decide to go with the ferrules, make sure you also buy a good crimping tool.  Don't try to cheap it out using pliers.

 

Personally, I would just strip back the insulation on both ends of a short piece of wire and call it good.  That's what you'll need to do anyway, even if you do use the ferrules.  The breakers are designed to accept bare wires. 

 

Ferrules (IMO) just add another potential failure point.  It takes some practice (and the right tool) to get really good at crimping.

 

Edit:  Ferrules do have their place.  I'm just not sure this is one of them...

 

35 minutes ago, impulse said:

If you do decide to go with the ferrules, make sure you also buy a good crimping tool.  Don't try to cheap it out using pliers.

 

Personally, I would just strip back the insulation on both ends of a short piece of wire and call it good.  That's what you'll need to do anyway, even if you do use the ferrules.  The breakers are designed to accept bare wires. 

 

Ferrules (IMO) just add another potential failure point.  It takes some practice (and the right tool) to get really good at crimping.

 

Edit:  Ferrules do have their place.  I'm just not sure this is one of them...

 

 

I agree, this type of connector just add an unnecessary point of weakness or potential failure. Cable connections (especially in the switchboard) require a firm mechanical connection. There are even specifications for the necessary torque needed depending on cable size and connection type. Crimping is common on large cable installations, but the pro's use the proper tools that deliver the required torque.

 

I might use these small crimped ferrules in a 12V situation, but not in a switchboard.

 

EDIT: Call me anal - but when twisting wires together in this situation, I tend to also solder the joint to achieve the aim of keeping the wires joined when servicing, and ensuring a sound electrical connection.

22 hours ago, dinsdale said:

Ah! Ok then. I don't know what they're called. Where are you? 

Far NE Isaan. 🙂

22 hours ago, impulse said:

If you do decide to go with the ferrules, make sure you also buy a good crimping tool.  Don't try to cheap it out using pliers.

 

Personally, I would just strip back the insulation on both ends of a short piece of wire and call it good.  That's what you'll need to do anyway, even if you do use the ferrules.  The breakers are designed to accept bare wires. 

 

Ferrules (IMO) just add another potential failure point.  It takes some practice (and the right tool) to get really good at crimping.

 

Edit:  Ferrules do have their place.  I'm just not sure this is one of them...

 

Thanks. I would normal have done that or maybe use a wire nut and a pigtail or twist and solder wires.

Seems I'm old fashioned, but don't have much experience with cables 6mm2 to 25mm2.

From the picture I saw they use double ferrul on solar installations which will be carrying a lot more current that my installation. My max. is 32A.

"Thingamabobs"

21 hours ago, Gsxrnz said:

 

I agree, this type of connector just add an unnecessary point of weakness or potential failure. Cable connections (especially in the switchboard) require a firm mechanical connection. There are even specifications for the necessary torque needed depending on cable size and connection type. Crimping is common on large cable installations, but the pro's use the proper tools that deliver the required torque.

 

I might use these small crimped ferrules in a 12V situation, but not in a switchboard.

 

EDIT: Call me anal - but when twisting wires together in this situation, I tend to also solder the joint to achieve the aim of keeping the wires joined when servicing, and ensuring a sound electrical connection.

Seems solder is out of fashion as can cause corrosion.

I made a 500W amp when I was a trainee and pulled it out a few years ago and lots of corrosion.

When I worked at commissioning a new high powered HF transmitter site the Collins Radio Company commissioning engineer was probably the smartest man I have met. A Russian named Olick Chitchoff. When we repaired circuit boards after soldering we hosed them off with water and blew them out with compressed air.

I was horrified when I first saw this, but it worked. Probably today boards would not be corroded.

2 hours ago, carlyai said:

Seems solder is out of fashion as can cause corrosion.

I think it is the flux that does that.

1 hour ago, stubuzz said:

I think it is the flux that does that.

Yes I agree but the solder contains flux I think...from memory 60/40 + flux.

 

You could use a busbar if the top surface of all your DIN rail devices is at the same height.

https://th.rs-online.com/web/p/busbars/1875176