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Posted

It's nice composition but I'd have moved around a little to the left to lose the emptiness in the lower right corner.

Being critical, it's not sharp and the highlights are horribly over exposed. This spoils it for me. Digital is more than capable of "revealing" shadow detail and the general rule of thumb is "expose for the highlights - the shadows will be there". Maybe a slower shutter speed also to give a milky flow to the water.

Posted (edited)
Being critical, it's not sharp and the highlights are horribly over exposed. This spoils it for me. Digital is more than capable of "revealing" shadow detail and the general rule of thumb is "expose for the highlights - the shadows will be there". Maybe a slower shutter speed also to give a milky flow to the water.

Yes, motion blur. Exif data shows the shutter speed of 0.4 seconds and there's no way on earth you could freeze the image hand holding the camera at that shutter speed even if it was equipped with image stabilizer. Also as Vulcan has rightly pointed out no point overexposing it at the expense of using slow shutter speed blurring the image. You probably intentionally selected slow shutter speed to get the "milky flow" of the waterfall but then you should have used a tripod. Exif data doesn't show the ISO but the aperture of F7.1. Given the available light and the lowest ISO of the camera and the shutter speed the OP has selected, that could have been the maximum (or minimum?) aperture that could be selected as most point and shoot comes with F stop only up to F8, which might explain why the picture was overexposed.

Edited by Nordlys
Posted

How did you get all that info from my pic ??

Yes it was hand held from memory or I may have placed it on a log or something, I do not have a tripod.

I was trying to get that effect of the water flowing over and over, so if I had used a tripod and maybe a time dealy to take the pic to avoid moving the camera when you push the button, how would that stop the over exposure ?? surely it would be the same, just a sharper over exposure :o

Also as I know jack about photography, but love taking pics and wish I had learnt more when younger and with these new digital cameras, I tend to try many different settings not knowing exactly what they will look like and hoping for the best and then end up not remembering what settings the good pic came out on.

Having kids also, most of my photos are of them.

Posted (edited)
How did you get all that info from my pic ??

Also as I know jack about photography, but love taking pics and wish I had learnt more when younger and with these new digital cameras, I tend to try many different settings not knowing exactly what they will look like and hoping for the best and then end up not remembering what settings the good pic came out on.

Having kids also, most of my photos are of them.

Camera

Make Canon

Model Canon DIGITAL IXUS 750

Orientation upper left

X resolution 180

Y resolution 180

Resolution unit 2

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Software ACD Systems Digital Imaging My software BTW not in your photo.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Datetime 2007:12:31 12:36:33 ?????

YCbCr positioning centered

Image

Exposure time 1/3 s

F-number 7.1

Date/time original 2005:12:20 12:09:34

Date/time digitized 2005:12:20 12:09:34

Component config YCbCr

Compressed BPP 3

Shutter speed value 0.402623 s

Aperture value 5.65625

Exposure bias value -2

Max. aperture value 2.96875

Metering mode Pattern

Flash Flash did not fire [off]

Focal length 7.7 mm

User comment

Subsec time 656

Colorspace sRGB

Pixel X dimension 2060

Pixel Y dimension 1545

Focal plane X res. 10816.9

Focal plane Y res. 10816.9

Focal plane res. unit inch

Sensing method One-chip color area sensor

Custom Rendered Normal process

Exposure mode Manual exposure

White balance Manual white balance

Digital zoom ratio 1

Scene capture type Night scene

Image description

Artist

Copyright

Miscellaneous

Exif version (30,32,32,30)

Maker note (not included as these are all numbers)

FlashPix version (30,31,30,30)

File source DSC

Maker Note

Macro mode Normal

Flash mode Flash not fired

Continuos drive mode Single

Focus mode Single

Image size Large

Easy shooting mode Unknown

Contrast Normal

Saturation Normal

Sharpness Normal

ISO Auto

Metering mode Evaluative

AF point selected Unknown

Exposure mode Easy shooting

White balance Auto

Flash Bias 0 EV

Image type IMG:DIGITAL IXUS 750 JPEG

Firmware version Firmware Version 1.00

Image number 1000-0148

Owner name

----------------------------------------------

This what your photo shows.

Kan Win :o

Edited by Kan Win
Posted
How did you get all that info from my pic ??

This information gets saved when you take a picture and some graphics programs can read it. I use PaintShop Pro version 8 and can see the following information:

post-21260-1199093147_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093157_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093167_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093179_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093187_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093197_thumb.jpg post-21260-1199093205_thumb.jpg

--

Maestro

Posted

Thats amazing, I know the camera or the original pic has some info tacked onto it on my files, but nothing like this.

Guess I need to visit Fortune and get some software.

Posted (edited)
I was trying to get that effect of the water flowing over and over, so if I had used a tripod and maybe a time dealy to take the pic to avoid moving the camera when you push the button, how would that stop the over exposure ?? surely it would be the same, just a sharper over exposure

First of all what was the ISO setting when you made the shot (I hope it wasn't set at Auto)?

And did you shoot it in AE (auto exposure) mode or manual exposure mode?

If I were you I'd just set the ISO at the lowest possible value (ISO 100 or lower, if available) and shoot at aperture priority AE with F stop set at F8 (minimum aperture on most compact digicam). That would automatically set the slowest possible shutter speed under available light condition to get the exposure correct. If possible I'd further push the exposure compensation value down to -1/3EV which should give the photo a slightly underexposed effect, but at the expense of faster shutter speed (so less "milky flow" effect).

Since most point and shoot cameras allow maximum shutter speed only up to 1/1000 or 1/1500 sec and aperture only up to F8, there's not much else you can do if the subject is so bright that the lowest ISO, highest shutter speed and minimum aperture of the camera can't capture the image in optimal exposure, perhaps other than using an ND filter, if your camera has a thread for screw-in filter on its lens top. It's like putting a tinted film over your lens.

Edited by Nordlys
Posted

No need to buy any sw here.

A standard image viewer like FastStone will reveal the info.

Just right click on the image and select Image properties.

You can download the programme on the web.

Posted
...Guess I need to visit Fortune and get some software.

I just realized something. If you upload your photo to your gallery on ThaiVisa you can click on “View image property details” next to the picture and see the full details. Try it!

post-21260-1199546876_thumb.jpg

--

Maestro

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