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Which Air-condition System?


Felt 35

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I had initially planned to go for Daikin or Mitsubishi, then the landlord comes by and recommend me to buy York!

Landlords families own some hotels and use York Air-condition in all of them and tell me there are easier to get parts to the York, and also to get it repaired through their dealer contract if anything goes wrong!

I will also get a lower price if I but through their dealer than if I buy on my own!

I’m not overly technical so I would be grateful to hear what others eventually have of experience with York Air-condition system.

BTW, its for a 5x5m bedroom. One window and door out to a minimal airing balcony. Cement made house. There could have been better isolation both around the window and door.

In our living room there is and old built in system with a “no name” outside unit!

Thanks & Regards

:o

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York are a good brand.

For American branded air cons (most are made in Thailand) one could argue that Carrier are #1 & York are #2.

Tell us what size air con you plan to buy.

I would suggest 24,000 BTU.

In general rotary compressors are quieter & more efficient that piston tpye. Rotary units max out at 24,000 BTU.

Most of the rotary compressors on sale in Thailand & fitted in "no name" air con units are Mitsubishi & therefore come with something like one year warranty.

Piston compressors are usually made by Tecumseh.

All the air con units in my condo are made by Yanmabishi. I really like them. Digital thermostats built it.

I am no big fan of wall units because they trade low noise for low air volume. I like ceiling mounted fan coil units.

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Until recently I could buy "no name" air cons units for 1 baht per 1 btu, installed. Add 1000 - 1500 baht for a digital thermostat & remote control.

Haven't needed to price one lately but branded units are going to cost more.

If you want I can pass by the shop (opposire Seri Center) & ask them.

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I bought a couple York units for my house a couple years ago. They are usually quite a bit cheaper than Mitsu or Panasonic units. Now I know why...very noisy fans and very limited controls (mine doesn't even have a timer/auto-shut-off function).

I would not buy York again.

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I have just installed a couple of Daikin units in our living room and bedroom and am very happy with the performance. Nice and cool and, very important for me, quiet too.

my home has a whole bunch of Daikin units. advantage 6 fan speeds and extremely quiet on speed 1 and 2, comfortable a speed 3 and but very noisy at speed 5 and 6.

Daikin outside compressor/condenser unit very quiet. noise of Mitsubishi in- and outside units = :o and :D goes for the handling of the inside unit too.

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I would suggest 24,000 BTU.

24k btu for a 25m² room = :D

Agree with you Doc. I would've chosen a 3kW to 4kW (10k BTU to 14k BTU) unit based on the OPs supplied info.

Rotary units max out at 24,000 BTU.

wrong. i have a Daikin 36k btu with a rotary compressor :o

Again, totally agree with Doc.

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I have 26sm bedroom on ground floor with shaded roof above and only need 9k unit for full cooling day and night. As this Panasonic unit was installed to be a backup for 18k unit when it fails was quite surprised. Since install (hot season) have not turned the 18k on. Expect it might not get the supermarket cool that some like but for normal 25c comfort level I enjoy it is fully adequate and does not seem to operate more than the 18k unit. Has also saved 2,000 baht per month in electric charges.

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I have 26sm bedroom on ground floor with shaded roof above and only need 9k unit for full cooling day and night. As this Panasonic unit was installed to be a backup for 18k unit when it fails was quite surprised. Since install (hot season) have not turned the 18k on. Expect it might not get the supermarket cool that some like but for normal 25c comfort level I enjoy it is fully adequate and does not seem to operate more than the 18k unit. Has also saved 2,000 baht per month in electric charges.

I have 2 Daikins in Japan, very happy with them. For the whole condo (60sqm) with one room closed, I have only used 1 at a time, it is enough to cool in summer (that is worse than Songkran time in Thai and lasts 3+ months) and heat the place in winter (that goes down to 5-8C and sometimes even snows).

Japanese consider Daikin cheaper and of lesser quality than Mitsubishi and Panasonic.

They are usualy bought by renters like me (many apartments come without aircons) where you may take them or leave (most landlords will request that you take them, then you have to pay scrappers to take and destroy them) when moving out.

Knowing that, Daikin has positioned the product and prices for huge "disposable aircon" market. Not that they are crap, just not Rolls Royces of the aircon world.

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would've chosen a 3kW to 4kW (10k BTU to 14k BTU) unit based on the OPs supplied info.

Forgot to mention but believe its importent when deciding BTU size. One side of the bedrom are facing SouthWest on the house and we have the sun there from 1300hrs to 1700hrs and the walls can feels pretty warm on the outside. The airing balcony is facing South, but are mostly in shadow because of cover over the balcony. The two other walls turn inward.

Thanks.

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would've chosen a 3kW to 4kW (10k BTU to 14k BTU) unit based on the OPs supplied info.

Forgot to mention but believe its importent when deciding BTU size. One side of the bedrom are facing SouthWest on the house and we have the sun there from 1300hrs to 1700hrs and the walls can feels pretty warm on the outside. The airing balcony is facing South, but are mostly in shadow because of cover over the balcony. The two other walls turn inward.

At the shop, Eiden, I showed my apartment floor plan to the shop assistant, he looked at it (there was that compass thing showing what position the condo is facing) and pointed 3 different brands of aircons (same BTU) to choose from.

Then asked me "own or rent"? I said rent. Then he recommended Daikin, said he has Daikin too at his place.

2 days later 2 guys brought them in and installed in 40 minutes.

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Forgot to mention but believe its importent when deciding BTU size. One side of the bedrom are facing SouthWest on the house and we have the sun there from 1300hrs to 1700hrs and the walls can feels pretty warm on the outside. The airing balcony is facing South, but are mostly in shadow because of cover over the balcony. The two other walls turn inward.

Yes but you have already said you chose 18k BTU.

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I have 26sm bedroom on ground floor with shaded roof above and only need 9k unit for full cooling day and night. As this Panasonic unit was installed to be a backup for 18k unit when it fails was quite surprised. Since install (hot season) have not turned the 18k on. Expect it might not get the supermarket cool that some like but for normal 25c comfort level I enjoy it is fully adequate and does not seem to operate more than the 18k unit. Has also saved 2,000 baht per month in electric charges.

a good example as far as efficiency of smaller units is concerned. the average 'layman' is however fed completely different and misleading information such as "big is better, a big unit doesn't have to work as hard, it will last longer as wear and tear is less and because the big unit runs a much shorter time is saves energy" and similar kind of rubbish. when you try that to explain that this is rubbish you get the answer "that's just common sense!"

by the way, i haven't met anybody in the aircon business [in Thailand] who was aware how high latent cooling capacity by dehumidification ranks which is achieved by smaller units running longer cycles and how dehumidification lowers the electricity bill (if one is not a fan of cross ventilation for hours a day).

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a good example as far as efficiency of smaller units is concerned. the average 'layman' is however fed completely different and misleading information such as "big is better, a big unit doesn't have to work as hard, it will last longer as wear and tear is less and because the big unit runs a much shorter time is saves energy" and similar kind of rubbish. when you try that to explain that this is rubbish you get the answer "that's just common sense!"

by the way, i haven't met anybody in the aircon business [in Thailand] who was aware how high latent cooling capacity by dehumidification ranks which is achieved by smaller units running longer cycles and how dehumidification lowers the electricity bill (if one is not a fan of cross ventilation for hours a day).

That's the first thing we were told about buying big.

We haven't bought one yet because the wisdom seems to be that you can afford to buy a unit, but not to pay the monthly bills.

What kind of bills can be expected for running a small unit continuously?

Also, I have not been able to find an explanation of why Thailand seems to almost exclusively run on individual wall units instead of using central air conditioning. I only see central air in large stores like Big C, Lotus, Central, etc.

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1. What kind of bills can be expected for running a small unit continuously?

2. Also, I have not been able to find an explanation of why Thailand seems to almost exclusively run on individual wall units instead of using central air conditioning. I only see central air in large stores like Big C, Lotus, Central, etc.

1. extrapolating cost for running any aircon is impossible as it depends on a dozen different factors and especially the time the compressor runs.

2. central a/c units have an advantage when cooling big areas continously for a rather long period. individual units have the advantage to cool selectively certain areas in your house/condo when cooling is needed. personally i would have preferred ducted central airconditioning (BUT several zones with different units). the drawback is that big units need a 3-phase connection. not everybody has a 3-phase connection and those who have one suffer quite often from one (or even two of the phases) having low voltage. if this happens it means no a/c at all and if the unit is not protected with an automatic shut-down at low voltage damage might occur. moreover, it is nearly impossible to find a contractor which installs central a/c in a single family home.

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Intresting that no-one has mentioned LG

I bought a 13,000 BTU LG with bio-filter and Ion for my bedroom. Cost me 19,000 Baht due to the extra features. Very impressed. Inside wall unit is good - only a slight fan noise. Good remote. The outside unit is almost silent. When outside, you have to look and see if the fan spinning to check if it is on. (You know - "Did I turn the aircon off before going out?")

This replaced a floor mounted FIJI. It cut my lecky bill down by a large amount having the LG fitted, even though I run it all night which I never did with the Fiji.

The one downstairs is also a Fiju (Big hunky thing) and the compressor is NOISY. Landlady had it repaired last month and the new pump is louder that the old one and can be heard down the road !!!

I may take Lopburi3's advice above and fit a secondary unit in my living room which is more efficient. It will also please my neighbours with the reduced noise polution. I can always take it with me when I move - if ever... been here 4 years already ...

BEWARE of countefeits. A trick down here in Pattaya, that I was warned about, is to fit a "Chinese made - unknown brand" aircon and put a Mitsubishi sticker on it.

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I have 26sm bedroom on ground floor with shaded roof above and only need 9k unit for full cooling day and night. As this Panasonic unit was installed to be a backup for 18k unit when it fails was quite surprised. Since install (hot season) have not turned the 18k on. Expect it might not get the supermarket cool that some like but for normal 25c comfort level I enjoy it is fully adequate and does not seem to operate more than the 18k unit. Has also saved 2,000 baht per month in electric charges.

a good example as far as efficiency of smaller units is concerned. the average 'layman' is however fed completely different and misleading information such as "big is better, a big unit doesn't have to work as hard, it will last longer as wear and tear is less and because the big unit runs a much shorter time is saves energy" and similar kind of rubbish. when you try that to explain that this is rubbish you get the answer "that's just common sense!"

by the way, i haven't met anybody in the aircon business [in Thailand] who was aware how high latent cooling capacity by dehumidification ranks which is achieved by smaller units running longer cycles and how dehumidification lowers the electricity bill (if one is not a fan of cross ventilation for hours a day).

"Too much" air conditioner is not good...unless you like living in a walk-in freezer.

My former father-in-law had a similar problem with a house he had in USA. The previous owner had been sold a new AC unit which was almost twice what the house needed. In order for the AC to run enough to keep the air suitably dehumidified, he had to keep the house around 60F all the time. And the thing ran all the time = large electric bills.

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Since there are so many air con experts around here, let me pose some questions...

I have a wall-mounted Fujitsu air con unit in my 11 x 14 foot main bedroom of rented apartment - second floor of 5 floor building, pretty well insulated, no large sun facing windows.

When I run it during the night, anywhere from high to medium, it will keep my bedroom sufficiently cool, and the remote allows me to set the temperature in C...

But lately, I've been staying, visiting and around some different places -- also with air con wall units -- and their output feels like arctic blasts compared to the modestly cool air mine puts out.

So it made me wonder: Do wall unit/exterior compressor air cons likewise need periodic freon/coolant recharging and/or testing the system for coolant leaks? And if I topped it off in that manner, would that help save on electricity??? (i.e., greater cooling output for the same energy use).

Likewise, what's the most-energy efficient way of running your air con at night: a) setting it on very high fan/cold temp and then run it on a sleep switch to completely shut off after an hour or two, or :o just setting it on low fan/modestly cool temp, but letting it run continuously thru the night???

Thanks....

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I have a small appt in bangkok about 18 sq m?

I bought a Tazaki AC setup in Paragon, for 25,000BTU.

My engineer in the appartment said that it would cause the fuses to blow as the power supply in the building was not sufficient......, dissapointed but paragon gave me a full refund.

The engineer said around 18,000BTU was as much as the power supply could handle....so I suppose I'll get one that 'size'...

but Mitsubishi are not good, u think Daikin are better?, what dyu recommend people....

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1. So it made me wonder: Do wall unit/exterior compressor air cons likewise need periodic freon/coolant recharging and/or testing the system for coolant leaks?

2. And if I topped it off in that manner, would that help save on electricity??? (i.e., greater cooling output for the same energy use).

3. Likewise, what's the most-energy efficient way of running your air con at night: a) setting it on very high fan/cold temp and then run it on a sleep switch to completely shut off after an hour or two, or :o just setting it on low fan/modestly cool temp, but letting it run continuously thru the night???

1. only when there is a leak due to improper installation.

2. yes, saves energy.

3. it depends on the ambient (outside) temperature. if it cools down considerably in the night the modest cool thermostat setting is more energy efficient than cooling the room down and shutting off the aircon before retiring.

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I have a small appt in bangkok about 18 sq m?

I bought a Tazaki AC setup in Paragon, for 25,000BTU.

My engineer in the appartment said that it would cause the fuses to blow as the power supply in the building was not sufficient......, dissapointed but paragon gave me a full refund.

The engineer said around 18,000BTU was as much as the power supply could handle....so I suppose I'll get one that 'size'...

but Mitsubishi are not good, u think Daikin are better?, what dyu recommend people....

too big for 18m²!

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My former father-in-law had a similar problem with a house he had in USA. The previous owner had been sold a new AC unit which was almost twice what the house needed. In order for the AC to run enough to keep the air suitably dehumidified, he had to keep the house around 60F all the time. And the thing ran all the time = large electric bills.

homes in the U.S. are normally centrally airconditioned. most of the airhandlers (fan units) can be switched to three different speeds (they are usually delivered with the highest fan speed). reducing the fan speed to the lowest setting increases dehumidification, renders the same primary cooling capacity, provides a more comfortable environment and saves energy due to reduced run time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

whilst we've got the guys around in here knowledgeable on this subject:

bedroom. night time.

I set the temperature to maybe 22 - 25 and fan speed low - medium.

Now it appears to me that when the room is down to temp. the 'stat cuts the power to the compressor, hence stopping & silencing it, BUT the fan on the indoor unit stays running. This annoys me.

Would it be easy/possible/any reasons why not? to change the wired supply to the fan from its existing feed to a feed picked up off the 'stat switched compressor feed?

Then when the comp. stops, so would the fan & finally i can sleep peacefully. zzzzzzzzz

silence is golden :o ( barking/howling soi dogs, chinese crackers, motor bikes excepted!)

Edited by Lancashirelad
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whilst we've got the guys around in here knowledgeable on this subject:

bedroom. night time.

I set the temperature to maybe 22 - 25 and fan speed low - medium.

Now it appears to me that when the room is down to temp. the 'stat cuts the power to the compressor, hence stopping & silencing it, BUT the fan on the indoor unit stays running. This annoys me.

Would it be easy/possible/any reasons why not? to change the wired supply to the fan from its existing feed to a feed picked up off the 'stat switched compressor feed?

Then when the comp. stops, so would the fan & finally i can sleep peacefully. zzzzzzzzz

silence is golden :o ( barking/howling soi dogs, chinese crackers, motor bikes excepted!)

If the fan of your aircon unit is keeping you awake, then it probably needs servicing or you just bought a lousy unit. I have Mitshubishi Mr. Slim unit that operates the same as yours. The fan though, is quiet (producing only white-noise at a low level), and I sleep just fine.

The bedroom where the aircon unit is used measures only 10ftx10ft (if not less). I run the unit 24/7, generally at 25C with the fans at full-power. Right now, with the humidity being very high this morning (dewpoint at 24C?), I have it set at 23C. I've had the unit for almost 4 years, and it still works like a charm. Generally the power bill runs around 3500-4000 baht per month, but that includes running other appliances and lights at the TW's family "compound".

Edited by Gumballl
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  • 1 year later...
Hi Guys. . .

I have a condo of 48 sqm . , its facing North located in Pattaya . . ,

What BTU to use ?

Thanks.

Is it just one room? or separate rooms?

If one room you are looking at 36,000 btu pretty large.

I recommend separating to 2-3 rooms with separate a/c units for better efficiency.

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  • 1 month later...

I have aa small 1 story 90 sqm house. The main bedroom (20 sqm) shall have air It faces N-NW so have no sun. I am planning to buy an LG 9000 l/hr (ca. 15000 Baht) or a Panasonic 12000 l/hr (ca. 18000 Baht).

What is BTU?

Is it possible to have two indoor units (bedroom and living room) connected to the same outdoor compressor unit, or should we keep the door from the bedroom to the living room (40 sqm.) open a little bit to get some cooling in the living room?

Thanks

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