Kawasaki Ninja 250 - New Thread, 12/2008

[BigBikeBKK]

Anyone looked at adding a big bore kit? I believe can get up to 330cc? Does anyone have any knowledge of this being done?

I am considering buying a Ninja 250 but would like some extra oomph for the open road.....

Id like the ER 6......but dont like the look of the N model or the ride position.

I am thinking of a late model second hand bike and use the saving from new price to do the mods.

Welcome any suggestions or advice.........

My advice? Don't do it. The Ninja 250R is a very well designed bike and messing with that tough little parallel twin is asking for trouble. In stock she peaks at around 9000 RPM and still pulls strong all the way to redline. Mod that engine and she may well fly apart. If you want more power get an aftermarket pipe and a powercommander. If you want a bigger bike, don't like the looks of the ER6n and can't afford a Yammie FZ6 just wait until September and buy an ER6f.

Happy Trails!

Tony

[Bard]

I second Tony there, bigbore kit might require new injectors, and lot of other parts so it might cost more than it's worth.

My 2 cents are get the Area-P and if that is not making you happy enough do a 520 stage 1 conversion, keeps your top speed but moves you a lot faster there. Finally a PC3USB if the first stuff didn't do it for you.

For people who don't want the awesome sound you get from an aftermarket exhaust but prefers it quiet, just do a 520 stage 1, makes a big difference for minimum amount of money.

Cheers Bard

[visions]

Thanks Tony and Bard....a pretty clear message to not mess with the engine!!!

I find a decent power boost can extradite oneself nicely from crowded rush hour traffic. Driving slower only asks for being side swiped and cut off. The 80 to 120kph range is where the power is needed.

But I dont like having to drop down 3 gears and have the engine screaming its little heart out. Unfortunately that is what I need do with my present bike....its starting to let me know it doesnt like it now....

I commute 65km to work every day...and back. All open road driving. By-pass 36 or sukhumvite...both busy at peak times.

I had the use of a CBR600 at one point....really liked that. Take off from lights and have the road to yourself...great.

I liked the Ueno-shop modified 250 at the motor show......love to have bought that...but the price was far too much compared to the ER6N or F. Not saying it wasnt priced according to the work done....but much more than the price of the 650. Must say...even at the price I was still swinging for a while....but only a little more $ to get the Yammy 600....... or kraker 1000

[Anthony17]

Excuse me but i don't know what is a 520 stage 1 conversion what does that bring?

[BigBikeBKK]

Excuse me but i don't know what is a 520 stage 1 conversion what does that bring?

^ It means changing the sprockets, losing teeth (smaller sprocket) in the front and/or adding teeth (larger sprocket) to the rear will increase acceleration but reduce top end speed.

[BigBikeBKK]

^ Oh, forgot to mention, 520 sprockets are thinner than stock, so you would also need to replace the chain.

[Bard]

You're right Tony.

Basically the 520 is a thinner much lighter x-ring chain normally gold color, with superlight front and rear sprocket, and it also changes gearing a bit.

You can get stock gearing, self explanatory

Mild gearing you will feel a bit more acceleration

Stage 1 for Track and Road you get a lot more acceleration without loosing your old top speed, and make your bike be able to wheelie in one gear higher than before, this is what most bikes should be geared really.

Stage 2 for stunt and hooliganism you loose about 10% top speed but wheelie easy as twisting the throttle in most gears and almost any speed.

Also due to less rotational mass they claim that a 520 improves the torque and power by about 5% to your rear wheel, I am not sure as I never seen a dyno curve supporting this, but due to the really improved acceleration on say stage 1 makes you feel it an incredible power increase all the time. That might just be due to the gearing put the bike in a better power band tho.

You can order Stage 1 kits for your specific bike, as it's different from bike to bike. I just ordered one for my FZ6 with gold chain. The stock is kinda made for everyone, some like powersurge and sport riding others like coasting so you won't get optimum for any of it, fits both purposes as good as it gets. Going stage 1 is to go for sportriding, the other way is also geared by some who don't like buzzy engines but want to coast there bikes, so it's up to whomever what they want.

Cheers Bard

[thaicbr]

What chain does it have as standard on the 250 ninja. I thought the standard chain was a 520 gauge. so i am very confused now!

Allan

[Anthony17]

Ok thanks for explaining me!!!

[BigBikeBKK]

What chain does it have as standard on the 250 ninja. I thought the standard chain was a 520 gauge. so i am very confused now!

Allan

^ Not 100% sure but guessing the Ninja 250R has a 525 or 530 chain and definitely steel sprockets.

[Bard]

What chain does it have as standard on the 250 ninja. I thought the standard chain was a 520 gauge. so i am very confused now!

Allan

Yes Allan it has a heavy gauge 520 chain, so it's very easy to get an lightweight x-ring and superlight sprockets for it, the gearing change would give it a lot of more kick with stage 1.

[Anthony17]

For me the 15th sprocket is the best

[Bard]

Lot of Auzzies use 13 front and the standard FI rear sprocket for better acc and same top speed as you can go all the way to redline in 6th gear with it, so that's basically stage 1 on the Ninja 250R, but the superlight sprockets front and rear plus x-ring gold chain would - 1 - look better and - 2 - give less resistance in the drive train.

15 front versus the 14 srock makes the bike less buzzy, and lowers the revs a bit 7% I think, you gain no top speed probably loose a bit but the bike will be much more calm. A coasting conversion if you like.

[12DrinkMore]

Kawasaki are offering a new paint scheme.

http://www.kawasakibigbike.com/feature_ninja250r.html

Similar to the ZX10R.

[visions]

New paint scheme....... and costs 2000 B more!!

[Weeble]

Thanks Chaps ! been following the Thread for a few months and finally went out and bought one only had time to ride it for a few days before back to work but it was great! first trip was Pattaya- Bang Chang and the ride was wonderful - last time I owned a Kawasaki 250 was 30 years ago (KH250-S1) approx same power 32bhp.

[Bard]

Congrats with your new bike Weeble and welcome to the forum, if you live in Ban Chang there are some bikers including me on the forum around the same area, so if you're up for trips and tours keep posted.

Cheers Bard

[dave_boo]

I'll get jumped for saying this, but check your tyre pressure! They're sitting incredibly high, indicating over-inflation. The tyres aren't the best in the world, and add in smaller contact patches and you'll expect too much of them (and this is coming from personal experience).

And interesting about that KH250 (I needed to google it); it was before my time but seems like it would have been a hoot.

[LivinLOS]

Stage 1 for Track and Road you get a lot more acceleration without loosing your old top speed

Really ?? How would gearing do that ??

Its always a trade off isnt it ??

Stage 2 for stunt and hooliganism you loose about 10% top speed but wheelie easy as twisting the throttle in most gears and almost any speed.

Again really ?? From a fairly front weight biased 250 4 stroke !!

I mean I know you get sharper acceleration.. I once rode a guys bike who was set up for stunting with a pizza sized rear sprocket.. But more than a little exaggeration to the bit in bold ?? Its still a 250 after all..

[Bard]

Stage 1 for Track and Road you get a lot more acceleration without loosing your old top speed

Really ?? How would gearing do that ?? By decreasing the gearing, in stock you will not reach redline in 6th with stage 2 you do, hence you keep the top but accelerate faster.

Its always a trade off isnt it ?? You get a much buzzier ride

Stage 2 for stunt and hooliganism you loose about 10% top speed but wheelie easy as twisting the throttle in most gears and almost any speed.

Again really ?? From a fairly front weight biased 250 4 stroke !!

I mean I know you get sharper acceleration.. I once rode a guys bike who was set up for stunting with a pizza sized rear sprocket.. But more than a little exaggeration to the bit in bold ?? Its still a 250 after all.. I once had a 50cc bike with hooligan gearing which flipped rear wheel easy by rolling the throttle, it had less top speed but man it jumped up. I did also wheelie the Ninja 250R in 1, 2 and 3rd by slipping the clutch with stock gearing so I don't see a problem wheelie the bike at all, the stage 2 makes it much easier tho, I appreciate that the statement was bold but you should manage to roll it in first 3 gears. I would never go for a stage 2 as it makes the bike really nervous (any bike) and you gear like a motherfokker to keep it going, but a stage 1 makes sense.

Most people actually go the other way on the Ninja 250R to +1 front to calm it down and get a less buzzier ride.

Edited April 14, 2009 by Bard

[LivinLOS]

Stage 1 for Track and Road you get a lot more acceleration without loosing your old top speed

Really ?? How would gearing do that ?? By decreasing the gearing, in stock you will not reach redline in 6th with stage 2 you do, hence you keep the top but accelerate faster.

Its always a trade off isnt it ?? You get a much buzzier ride

I didnt know that machine wouldnt pull to redline in top.. which to me kind of sounds like it was geared too long as standard..

I also meant trade off as being top versus acceleration.. I didnt know it wouldnt pull fully to top in 6th.

I once had a 50cc bike with hooligan gearing which flipped rear wheel easy by rolling the throttle, it had less top speed but man it jumped up. I did also wheelie the Ninja 250R in 1, 2 and 3rd by slipping the clutch with stock gearing so I don't see a problem wheelie the bike at all, the stage 2 makes it much easier tho, I appreciate that the statement was bold but you should manage to roll it in first 3 gears. I would never go for a stage 2 as it makes the bike really nervous (any bike) and you gear like a motherfokker to keep it going, but a stage 1 makes sense.[/i][/color]

Yeah I know you can get sharp sudden lift in low gears with setups like that.. I am considering being a bit aggressive with the Blade in dropping a tooth or 2 at the front, but I want to get more used to it and see if the constant gear chasing will be worth the takeoff benefit (I dont need the top end speed it has, thats not me in Thailand).. I also agree I might be being too nit picky, but I reckon you would have to be REALLY gearing it down to get power on lift in 'most gears' fromt he 250 ninja when as stock I dont think it will lift in even first without a clutch (will it ??)...

Edited April 15, 2009 by LivinLOS

[Weeble]

I'll get jumped for saying this, but check your tyre pressure! They're sitting incredibly high, indicating over-inflation. The tyres aren't the best in the world, and add in smaller contact patches and you'll expect too much of them (and this is coming from personal experience).

And interesting about that KH250 (I needed to google it); it was before my time but seems like it would have been a hoot.

Thanks for the advise will check. KH250 -S1 was a 3 cylinder 2-stroke - top speed 112 mph 32 bhp

[BigBikeBKK]

Stage 1 for Track and Road you get a lot more acceleration without loosing your old top speed

Really ?? How would gearing do that ?? By decreasing the gearing, in stock you will not reach redline in 6th with stage 2 you do, hence you keep the top but accelerate faster.

Its always a trade off isnt it ?? You get a much buzzier ride

I didnt know that machine wouldnt pull to redline in top.. which to me kind of sounds like it was geared too long as standard..

I also meant trade off as being top versus acceleration.. I didnt know it wouldnt pull fully to top in 6th.

I once had a 50cc bike with hooligan gearing which flipped rear wheel easy by rolling the throttle, it had less top speed but man it jumped up. I did also wheelie the Ninja 250R in 1, 2 and 3rd by slipping the clutch with stock gearing so I don't see a problem wheelie the bike at all, the stage 2 makes it much easier tho, I appreciate that the statement was bold but you should manage to roll it in first 3 gears. I would never go for a stage 2 as it makes the bike really nervous (any bike) and you gear like a motherfokker to keep it going, but a stage 1 makes sense.[/i][/color]

Yeah I know you can get sharp sudden lift in low gears with setups like that.. I am considering being a bit aggressive with the Blade in dropping a tooth or 2 at the front, but I want to get more used to it and see if the constant gear chasing will be worth the takeoff benefit (I dont need the top end speed it has, thats not me in Thailand).. I also agree I might be being too nit picky, but I reckon you would have to be REALLY gearing it down to get power on lift in 'most gears' fromt he 250 ninja when as stock I dont think it will lift in even first without a clutch (will it ??)...

Hey Dudes!

Interesting topic. Tucked in behind the fairing my Ninja 250R would purr along (ok, scream is more like it) at redline in 6th gear, standard gearing no problem, but then I weigh a bit less than the old Bardster I blasted up and down to Chiang Mai a few times with the throttle wide open, tach needle touching red, and indicated speed of ~170km/hr

So, in my case anyway, a stage one conversion would have led to a decrease in top end speed...

Oh, and it's quite easy to lift the front of the featherlight Ninja 250R in 1st gear- just shift your weight back, bounce the front and twist the throttle and voila- insta-wheelie!

Happy Trails!

Tony

[Bard]

I didnt know that machine wouldnt pull to redline in top.. which to me kind of sounds like it was geared too long as standard..

I also meant trade off as being top versus acceleration.. I didnt know it wouldnt pull fully to top in 6th.

Yeah I know you can get sharp sudden lift in low gears with setups like that.. I am considering being a bit aggressive with the Blade in dropping a tooth or 2 at the front, but I want to get more used to it and see if the constant gear chasing will be worth the takeoff benefit (I dont need the top end speed it has, thats not me in Thailand).. I also agree I might be being too nit picky, but I reckon you would have to be REALLY gearing it down to get power on lift in 'most gears' fromt he 250 ninja when as stock I dont think it will lift in even first without a clutch (will it ??)... I lifted on my old Ninja 250 in first without slipping the clutch in stock gearing, granted it was tuned exhaust on it.

On my FZ6 I am going for stage 1, the stock gearing does not get it to redline in 6th there either if it did it would do 264 km/h real speed which it certainly don't, so from my mate who setup gearing for track bikes figured out the ratio where I would get stage 1 for me and ordered it, So I will keep my old top speed but get a more aggressive with better take off which is a bike right up my alley, the 520 conversion will be lighter than the stock 530 and gold chain is bling bling so all in all it will make me grin ear to ear when I put it on. I will test it out and jot down a test report about it for the FZ6...

[dave_boo]

Hey Dudes!

Interesting topic. Tucked in behind the fairing my Ninja 250R would purr along (ok, scream is more like it) at redline in 6th gear, standard gearing no problem, but then I weigh a bit less than the old Bardster I blasted up and down to Chiang Mai a few times with the throttle wide open, tach needle touching red, and indicated speed of ~170km/hr

So, in my case anyway, a stage one conversion would have led to a decrease in top end speed...

Oh, and it's quite easy to lift the front of the featherlight Ninja 250R in 1st gear- just shift your weight back, bounce the front and twist the throttle and voila- insta-wheelie!

Happy Trails!

Tony

Y'all skinny dudes make me sick. Popping wheelies and being general hooligans.

Of course if I wasn't such a fat ass I'd probably be doing it too.

[BigBikeBKK]

Little Vid of Ninja 250R top speed:

Ride On!

Tony

Edited April 15, 2009 by BigBikeBKK

[Bard]

The redline (actual redline) on the Ninja 250R is 13500 RPM The cut out is just above that

The stock FI gearing 14 front and 43 Rear with stock tires your actual top speed in 13500 rpm is 184 km/h, and as the speedo is out that would show a top speed of around 200 km/h, the tachometer is also unreliable and what show as the redline is actually around 12000 rpm which should give you a top speed (actual) of 160 km/h which again would show 170 km/h or thereabout on the speedo.

I achieved the 182 km/h mark on mine with the Area-P installed, which in reality translate to about 170 km/h that is also achievable with stock tires and 13 front and stock rear sprockets.

Anyway as most people gear it up to lower the revs, I was thinking about it, then I tried on 150 rear which is the same as a +1 front sprocket, calmed down the bikes revs a good bit and lowered the vibrations, so if anyone is considering gearing to 15 front, wait until you change tires and go for 150 rear tire, as you have to change tires sooner or later anyway it avoids you to do all the gearing. If you want to keep the same gearing just change later to 13 front, or do a 13 front 45 rear to get a Stage 1 with the 150 tire, you will still do 170 real km/h on top speed.

Wheelie with roll on, one easy way is sit as far back as possible on the seat towards the pillion and twist her full from start, if you ride, keep her in the power band sit back, roll off then full on lift you up. If not ride in the powerband keep your throttle even and flip the clutch, and you get a nice lift.

Cheers Bard

[Bard]

Oh yes as I remember someone earlier was complaining about to soft forks, you can buy new ones here

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/S...angname=english

and if you click on Custom Fork and Rear Shock Spring Calculation and Available Rates or this link http://old.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRat...&bikeid=268

You can enter your body weight and get the springs you need, there not that expensive either.

Cheers Bard

[12DrinkMore]

Wheelie with roll on, one easy way is sit as far back as possible on the seat towards the pillion and twist her full from start, if you ride, keep her in the power band sit back, roll off then full on lift you up. If not ride in the powerband keep your throttle even and flip the clutch, and you get a nice lift.

How about you putting a vid on YouTube???

[dave_boo]

Oh yes as I remember someone earlier was complaining about to soft forks, you can buy new ones here

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/S...angname=english

and if you click on Custom Fork and Rear Shock Spring Calculation and Available Rates or this link http://old.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRat...&bikeid=268

You can enter your body weight and get the springs you need, there not that expensive either.

Cheers Bard

I had come across this before; quite sad that my weight means I would need to double the spring weight (essentially). The crazy thing is, per that calculator, the best weight for stock springs is less than 15kg!