Mitsubishi Water Pump Problem (motor Won't Always Stop)

[gdhm]

Hi,

We have this 6 month old Mitsubishi Water Pump model WP-255Q2 Orange cylinder shape (not the square type)

All was fine for 5 months them one night it was not working. Next morning we released the water form the chamber at the bottom not help but when an engineer did the same an hour later it worked.

Next night same problem. next morning OK with same procedure above.

Then a new twist it would not switch off the motor but no water was being pumped out. Then I noticed it was super hot and a small leak from the rotor blade chamber.

We went to the purchase shop who went through the usual rubbish of input pipes not correct or builder got concrete in the pipe.

I do not know what it is with Thai repairers they override what they are told Namely in THIS case all worked perfectly for 5 months so how can the pipework or concrete chips suddenly come into the equation.

Then as I find usual here the repairers ignore salient input and treat the symptoms and ignore the cause

They repaired a gasket and refitted Pump. later that night it started leaking again (same place). They replaced the gasket again and this time no leak BUT the motor would not switch off despite no water being drawn

Now I KEEP telling them that what si happening is the motor does not switch off when it should and keeps running then I think it all over heats (can smell it) and I think the rotor or rotor parts expand and jam. This would explain why it sometimes stop for no reason, only to start again (when no water running only to stop again.

Will they listen NO they keep telling me automatic cut out when pressure OK and water not running.

Then it would not start whatever although we all could here a hum as if it was getting power but could not turn the rotor.

The shop referred it to another shop who had a look and said the rotor was slightly bent and it was replaced.

The pump worked perfectly for a week and then last night no water but the pump was running. Then after about 10 minutes it stopped and nothing would get it to start. 15 mins later it started again by itself (no water running).

I think ONCE AGAIN they have ignored the cause of all the problems and keep fixing damaged parts as a consequence

I STILL stand by the logic that the pump doe snot switch off sometimes when it should and as water is not passing through it overheats and expansion of internal parts jams it. Sometimes it frees itself to work again for a short while (but still does nto switch off when water not being used.

I switched off the pump until this morning. Now it is working OK and perfectly

Now there are only aspects I can think of that I have not mentioned so far.

1) Can it be the pump overheats during the day purely from the sun (it is in the shade by the way). I have to doubt this possibility

2) More likely. We have ever since the house was built 6 months ago had low voltage. About 204V to 218V mornings and At night from 17:30 anything down to 178V but usually around 180V to 185V.

This has got a little worse with the heat. Is it possible that the pump electrical cut out is not functioning correctly with voltages down to 180V approx. The reason I ruled this out was that this has been the scenario for 6 months so why would it now be problem?

Has anybody any input on what they feel is the primary cause. I could try to by a voltage stabilizer but do not wish to keep spending on guessing and eliminating all the possibilities AND I would have thought a water pump that can turn the motor and work at night (when it does) would have sufficient voltage to operate the pressure cut out when the pressure is OK and water is not being run.

I have forked out 2000 B, (500B to shop for something they said was not included in the warranty and new pipe work to include valves and stop cocks either side of the pump). Totally fed up with these games and no solutions. I do the pipe work for 2 reasons as I through stopcock an advantage for easy removal of pump if necessary. The valve I was told should have been there anyway. I think this is rubbish and a Red herring (once again repairers working down their guess lists.

How many times they need to be told the pump worked perfectly for 5 months so the pipework has to be OK I do not know. How many times I need to tell them the problem is the pump does not always stop when it should. I do not care if they cannot see it failing themselves (there clearly is an inconsistent fault that needs a replacement part otherwise the gasket will burn up again and the rotor damage and bend again. The pump overheating will eventually burn it out totally. Cannot be good when i can smell bakerlite type burning and the pump motor is too hot to touch.

The shop has said they cannot replace the pump as it is 6 months old (which I understand)and if we want then to try for that then they must send it to Bangkok for Mitsubishi to agree to a replacement (another ploy I haver come across here in Khon Kaen. Go for the "we will need to send to Bangkok and you must wait over 1 month). I think the shop in this instance is being truthful (other times with other items the shops have used the tactic as a cop out. This option is not realistic as we cannot go without water upstairs and insufficient pressure at night currently to trigger the downstairs shower heaters.

I do not wish to buy another pump and certainly not of the same model BUT if I changed model or make the pipe work will not be compatible and I will have 2 pumps eventually which I do not need 2)

Really could do with some experienced pointers rather than guesses by the shop repairers so far.

Thanks

Dave

[Boksida]

It sounds like an inadequate water supply to your pump. Are you pumping from the mains or a tank? If a tank, is it higher or lower than your pump?

[doggie888888]

Hmm, I wonder if this is a Mitsubishi problem? I had this problem maybe 6 months after installation. Exactly as you described. Although, mine is a different model Mitsubishi - the "constant pressure" type but still a Mitsubishi. Repairman said there was leak in my pipes, I told him IMPOSSIBLE becasue I checked water meter when water tanks were full and ensured no taps running: meter was not moving at all. Only then did he proceed to "repair" the pump, although I am not sure exactly what he did but I did see him take a valve looking thing out and replaced it. It has worked perfectly ever since.

I know it's not ideal, but whilst waiting for the repairman (about 1 week) I basically checked if pump stopped after using water and if it did not, I merely disconnected from socket to stop it. And reconnected it later when I wanted water..worked most times.

Now that you have shared your experience (same brand and approx same timing for problem to surface), I am thinking surely it's not a co-incidence? I installed it in April 2008.

[Heng]

IMO it's a water supply problem. It's designed to feed off of a reliable water supply (always available, with no gas or air in the lines). I find my pumps that are located in my city properties always work better than the ones I have in suburban areas (not a rule, as plenty of suburban areas are still near pumping stations). As for what happens to the pump when it keeps coming across no water, air, then water, then bubbly water, etc. over time, it's a question mark as these aren't "smart" computer controlled pumps.

[gdhm]

It sounds like an inadequate water supply to your pump. Are you pumping from the mains or a tank? If a tank, is it higher or lower than your pump?

Thanks for the replies Boksida, Heng and doggie.

Boksida, the water pump is ground level 3 metres from an underground 1200 Litre water tank.

Doggie, that is a curious and interesting similarity.

Heng and Boksida I feel the water supply is NOT the issue for several reasons:

1) Pump has worked for 5 months with the current mains water pressure and a consistent underground tank supply (as needed pump always seems to operate when water wanted even downstairs.

If the pump is switched off and the house is forced to use mains supply (known to not be wonderful but OK) only, then the downstairs taps, toilet, showers work OK (although a little weak especially at night) - Usually pressure is enough to trigger the shower heaters.

Upstairs the showers do not provide water (just drips) , the basin taps do supply water but minimal and the toilets DO slowly fill up (essentially the lower the appliance the better the flow).

2) The pump is well below the max height it is supposed to work above the static water supply.

3) The whole idea of a water pump is to cope with low pressure or cut off supply causing it to use the water tank supply.

Here are the specs of this water pump ( I have tried to interpret the Thai columns headings (not guaranteed correct)

Don't know if this helps

If the worst came to the worst and I had to cut my losses and buy another to maintain a decetn water supply;

Is there a preferential Make/type of pump. I note there are different types of model (as well as wattage size).

(My model cost 6,100 Baht at end of Oct 2008)

Dave

Edited May 8, 2009 by gdhm

[Boksida]

Boksida, the water pump is ground level 3 metres from an underground 1200 Litre water tank.

Dave, it still sounds to me that the pump has been losing its prime. This would only have to happen once and the heat generated from running dry would damage seals. Does the suction to your underground tank have a foot valve on it? If this leaks, all your problems will start.

Undo the castellated plug on the suction side on the top of your pump (with the pump switched off) and see if it is full of water. It should be. If not, pour water in there until it is full and then see if the level drops. If it does, it is draining back into your tank and the foot valve is not holding. With the pump running, loosen the other plug on top of your pump and see if there is water coming out under pressure. If there is no water, or air with the water, you have found your problem. See if you can bleed off the air and the pump may start operating correctly. Tighten it back up and your pump will stop when it reaches cut off pressure. It will still fail again until the foot valve is changed.

Edited May 8, 2009 by Boksida

[Crossy]

Dave, it still sounds to me that the pump has been losing its prime. This would only have to happen once and the heat generated from running dry would damage seals. Does the suction to your underground tank have a foot valve on it? If this leaks, all your problems will start.

Agreed, a leaky (or no) foot valve would definitely explain the symptoms.

[momosan]

Did you get it repaired under warranty using a Mitsu affiliated technician? I have a Mitsu water pump myself and now looking at the warranty card it says the motor is 5 years and all other parts are 1 year.

[sometime]

I had the same pump with the same problem, also pumping from an underground tank.

The pump was a quite a few years old so I decided buy a new pump, same make bigger model

I decided after a little investigation the problem was not the pump but the none return valve in the underground tank sticking closed at times, not allowing the water flow to the pump, hence the pump became empty and kept running, I now have a spare pump.

Edited May 8, 2009 by sometime

[gdhm]

Thanks guys,

Well the pump has worked perfectly for the past 24 hours, but of course the underlying problem is not resolved.

Not sure what the foot valve is I am afraid. Sorry.

There is an official Mitsubishi agent retail shop in Khon Kaen. My wife phoned them and they said bring it in but only IF the selling shop turns out to be unable to resolve first. At present the shop are trying to fix and tell us to ring them if we have problems. We have not phoned them on this latest problem in the hope of some more obvious and consistent symptoms to actually show them. Our seller has a shop where there are motor and mechanical parts in huge numbers at the back of the shop (like a workshop). Clearly they do repair work of many makes and types of appliances and motors, so I would expect decent knowledge by their repairers. Clearly they are not only a sales shop with no understanding of pumps and motors.

Valves:

After the first set of failures, a plumber added a stopcock tap and a no return valve to both the inlet and outlet pipes either side of the pump. The said i should have both valves.

The problems continued (as before) so I have to assume a valve problem is not the issue. I can here the pipe valves knocking as I switch off a garden tap so I feel (whether the pump valves are working or not that the pipe ones are.

My impression was that pressure and water was lacking in the rotor chamber but that may have been due heat damage to the chamber seal/gasket as a leak appeared below it (I did not notice any leak when the problems FIRST started (and there is none currently).

I did notice yesterday some air in the taps when I used them mid morning and in the upstairs toilet BUT that may have been caused when the pump failed the nigh before and I switched it off over night.

Certainly does not seem to be any obvious leaks as the pump NEVER "hunts" when no water is being run.

Obviously when the seal failed the first time around air was going to be sucked in.

Pump is currently working. I hate these inconsistent problems because I need to selling shop to see for themselves. What I do not understand is why most failures happen early evening or later.

What happens then is lower main water supply (only a little) and much lower Voltage 209V (avrg) drops to 180V to 190V (has been know to hit 176V rarely)

A question please:

If the pump fails again and cools done and starts running non stop If I lift the plastic cap on the pressure switch mechanism and cause it to break contact will that tell me anything (.ie. if I flick it up and down and motor continues to run unaffected -which it may or may not I do not know). Would that suggest whether the pressure mechanism is suspect OR whatever cut eh motor (if not it directly).

Regards, Dave

[gdhm]

I had the same pump with the same problem, also pumping from an underground tank.

The pump was a quite a few years old so I decided buy a new pump, same make bigger model

I decided after a little investigation the problem was not the pump but the none return valve in the underground tank sticking closed at times, not allowing the water flow to the pump, hence the pump became empty and kept running, I now have a spare pump.

Thanks for this. Sounds like an interesting possibility.

I will try to check this out.

Not entirely sure where it is in the water tank or how accessible but will try to check out as must be near the top otherwise nobody would ever be able to fix or replace.

Dave

[lopburi3]

The foot valve will be at the bottom of the pipe in your tank (below the water) where the water from tank enters. It keeps the water in the pipe from flowing back into the tank. At the top of tank pipe to pump should join this pipe and there should be a way (screw connection) to remove the pipe that is inside the tank so you can inspect it. That valve should be the first thing you check/change. It is very likely that is what is causing your pump problems. Any pump supply/pipe supply store should have replacements available.

[Boksida]

The foot valve will look something like this:

If there isn't one on the end of the pipe going in to your tank, you definitely do need it.

[gdhm]

The foot valve will be at the bottom of the pipe in your tank (below the water) where the water from tank enters. It keeps the water in the pipe from flowing back into the tank. At the top of tank pipe to pump should join this pipe and there should be a way (screw connection) to remove the pipe that is inside the tank so you can inspect it. That valve should be the first thing you check/change. It is very likely that is what is causing your pump problems. Any pump supply/pipe supply store should have replacements available.

Very useful timing Lopburi3 as I have just looked at the tank and was about to say I cannot see a valve at the top of the pipe leading to the pump and can only see a screw connection (as you have described).

Will now have to check the other end but at least I know where to look. I seems to me this screw fitting at the top of the pipe in the tank is important that it is definitely air tight otherwise being above water level air could conceivably be drawn into the pump.

A further question if a may. Is there only a "no return" valve or is there also supposed to be a filter to stop any solids being drawn into the pump.

I ask because i am aware the mains water supply is not always sand particles (or whatever) free. Seems to me a filter of some sort should be mandatory to protect the pump from jamming on particles (or do pumps have filters themselves).

Dave

[Boksida]

I suggest that if you need a filter for your mains supply water, you install it between the supply and the tank. Anything you fit to the suction side of your pump is just something else to go wrong.

[lopburi3]

The intake to the foot valve should be high enough from bottom of tank so that it will not pick up heavy stones and such. Some will always get though which is why you sometimes have to clean toilet intake valves (if they start leaking). But most trash will settle to bottom of tank and when excessive they can be removed.

[gdhm]

The intake to the foot valve should be high enough from bottom of tank so that it will not pick up heavy stones and such. Some will always get though which is why you sometimes have to clean toilet intake valves (if they start leaking). But most trash will settle to bottom of tank and when excessive they can be removed.

Thanks all and Boksida for the valve photo.

I know ThaiVisa has its critics at times mostly due to its its less pleasant verbal members but I am happy to say I cannot thank the vast majority of kind, helpful and good souls like yourselves who have provided me with so much advice and help on housing and Visa matters (Lopbuir3 helped me so much with advice when first here and seeking a Retirement Visa). I am so happy when I find queries where I am able to reciprocate at times

Thanks ever so much guys . Even if the fault is different to those suspected, all these suggestions help eliminate or offer possibilities for checking out.

Dave

[nikster]

I have the same pump but different problem, wondering if any of you know what to do.

Symptoms: Pump turns on and off incessantly when in operation

There is a pressure switch, of course, and it has one screw in it, so I turned the screw: If it's too far on one side, the pump will turn on and off at ever shorter intervals when the tap is on. When I turn the other direction, it will eventually just keep pumping, which makes for a much nicer and stronger water stream out of the tap as well. But then when I lose electricity - which happens quite often over here - the pump will suddenly be on when no tap is on. It will sound "wrong" and certainly not pump any water a bit like in the OP description. There are no leaks (*). But it won't turn off until I turn the pressure switch setting back and then it's on/off/on/off at 2 second intervals again.

I get my water from a tank that's raised 6m, so there is quite a bit of pressure on the intake - could that be the problem? The pump is there to get more pressure than we'd get for the tank, so the upstairs showers work, for example. Without pump there's only a trickle upstairs.

Question: Is my pump faulty, and if yes is there anything I can do? How do I "drain the water from the tank"?

Or do I need a pressure booster pump instead of the one I have? I am thinking the one I have is mainly for when there is no or very little pressure on the intake. Maybe that screws up the system?

One more thing, my current workaround is to open another tap when I shower - this way the pump gets into continuous mode and the water is much stronger.

(*) Or well maybe there is a very small one somewhere, but certainly no water coming out anywhere we can see.

Edited May 10, 2009 by nikster

[Crossy]

I have the same pump but different problem, wondering if any of you know what to do.

Symptoms: Pump turns on and off incessantly when in operation

This (short cycling) is almost certainly lack of air in the pressure tank.

Depending upon the model (look in the handbook for instructions) you should be able to drain all the water out of the pressure tank and restart with a new air-charge.

[BigSnake]

My two baht worth and experience with a Mitsubishi water pumps, they suck, bought my self a Hitachi 4 years ago no problems yet, still one year left on warranty but still running strong.

[gdhm]

Hi Guys ,

I continued thanks to all for the help and advice.

First Bigsnake .

I did ask my builder to get a Hitachi. To be honest mainly because I felt them near identical but for me the Hitachi's looked nicer I do not like the orange coloured lids or the round Mitsubishi's which always seem to lean and not fit nicely.

My builder as usual ignored me (don't know why he asked then) and got the Mitsubishi. He did say the shop told him that Hitachi have no support agents in Khon Kaen and that they fight warranty claims with vigour whilst Mitsubishi are much better with such claims and repairs.

I cannot tell if this is just bias or fact based on past experience.

Report on my Water Pump:

No more problems for 2 day since it failed. So after the repairers replaces the seal and bent rotor it worked perfectly for 6 days then failed where it would not switch off until it got too hot then after a while it would restart itself (maybe it had cooled down and unjammed) again and water was supplied to taps (I think water was then passed to taps, but not sure). This cycle was continuously repeated. I unplugged the pump over night to protect itself from itself. The next morning I plugged in the pump again and it has worked perfectly ever since (for 2 days now). Very puzzling

I have no illusion that the cause is not still hovering. I hate inconsistent problems as it is always hard to track and duplicate in the repair shop and often hard to prove to the repairers by them "seeing for themselves"

I have not yet touched the outlet pipe and valve in the underground water tank yet (big suspect for several on this thread) because I wish to examine them when the pump next fails to see if tapping it loosens things and the pump starts working (which would prove the culprit if that occurred or whether it makes no difference (and a closer examination would be necessary). Additionally I also need to be sure that when the pump keeps running and does not switch off whether any water is passing through taps via the pump. I think this LAST time IT WAS and that water only stopped flowing when the rotor stopped (I assume jammed). If so ,that would suggest that tank valve is not the problem but the water and rotor heating up due to excessive running with the water not passing through the pump thus no doubt boiling the water in the rotor chamber

I have however been able to view the valve in the tank as the water is clear enough. It is NOT like Boksida's photo in Post 13. It looks pretty certainly a brass value (with a large white diagonal cross on its side) and looks similar to the in-line one fitted by the plumber (except the cross) when the house was built which I assume is to stop water going back into the mains pipes in the event of a mains supply cut off.

This would mean we have that conventional type brass in-line valve at the bottom of the tank outlet pipe and another new in-line brass valve just before the pump.

Seems to me overkill and only the one before the pump is now necessary. However the photos Boksida kindly supplied is very different and by the looks of it would appear to have protection to a degree from larger particles making it into the pipe and on to the pump. I have no idea if there are additional filters in Boksida's type of valve.

Are there any important views as to whether a brass valve in the tank is problematic or not, or whether 2 valves only 3 metres apart may be problematic (obviously there is one extra to possibly stick - no idea if that is extremely rare or not). I can only think the fitter of the stop cocks and valves either side of the pump did not check the water tank outlet pipe for a valve and played safe.

Regards to all

Dave

[Boksida]

I would consider the valve at the end of your suction line in the tank to be the most important. The one near the pump is redundant and just another restriction.

[nikster]

I have the same pump but different problem, wondering if any of you know what to do.

Symptoms: Pump turns on and off incessantly when in operation

This (short cycling) is almost certainly lack of air in the pressure tank.

Depending upon the model (look in the handbook for instructions) you should be able to drain all the water out of the pressure tank and restart with a new air-charge.

Yes!! That totally worked. By co-incidence I found the drain valve - it was behind the pump, very close to the wall so that you can almost not get to it - drained all the water, and to my great surprise the next morning when the power came back it worked!! No more short cycles, instead it's constant pressure and very long cycles, like the God of pumps intended.

Awesome - thanks so much for this tip!

[kxfield]

Just as an additional experience. "All is sometimes not what it seems" I have a Mitsubishi WP-155P supplied from a large water tank about 1 meter away. About a week ago the water at the taps and showers stopped. About an hour later restarted. This stopping and starting continued this last week.Sometimes it was off for 2-4 hours. I realised that the builders who put in the tank etc., about 3 years ago guarantees had not left me with any guarantees. A visit to the suppliers, Carrefour did at least yield a helpful english speaking lady who supplied me with a copy of the one page spec that comes with a WP-155Q2 , presumably an update on mine as virtually identical. Armed with this and a few helpful hints off this forum and other web sites, I started my investigations.

When I got to the pressure switch -off came the top and guess what. Inside were the cremated bodies of scores and scores of ants. It was solid in the switch. A few sucks with the hoover. A few strokes of a cocktail stick to extract the bodies from the more inaccessible niches, another suck or two. Hey presto working a treat. Everything free again. Seems to be working fine now. Not stopped all day.

I then searched the internet again for "pressure switch" and "ants" and came up with a similar tale from someone, I suspect in North America. ( http://musingsfairlightfarm.blogspot.com/2...t-looking.html)

He had to replace his switch, the tip from his article was to make sure you have a liberal coating of vaseline at the entry point to the switch to prevent further ingress.

[gdhm]

kxfield,

In my case the pressure switch area was free of insects BUT you have made an excellent point ans insects and ants get everywhere here in Thailand. I will bear your comment in mind when/if other item accessible to insects become unreliable.

For an update since te last repair the pump stopped once after 5 days and have worked perfectl ever since ???? No idea why. If the repair resolved the problem then it should not have stopped even once and yet if the repair has not had any major impact then the pump should have stopped many times by now

Confused but happy it is behaving currently.

Thanks, Dave

[anatta]

I have the same pump. It did suffer from low voltage when we had a 'brown-out' recently, failing to pump at all. Without dismantling anything, or the necessary technical knowledge to diagnose properly, I had the impression that it switched on but wasn't getting enough juice to turn: it just got gradually hotter, emitting, as I remember, an ominous hum. When the voltage returned to 'normal' all worked fine again.

[raro]

Same Mitsu model here.

Pump and 1000 l water tank are both on ground level. Tank ran dry (someone played with the valves... ).

Opened the tank inlet valve and water is flowing in.

Pump is running but doesn't supply any water. I opened the little black outlet at the bottom of the pump housing and pressurized air and a bit of water came out.

Pump is continually running, still no water at the tab. Pump is quite hot.

Opened the little black outlet again and lots of pressurized water was coming out. So the pump is doing *something* but apparently not enough.

Whether or not thee is a foot valve I cannot tell as the tank is full now (should have looked up this thread an hour earlier...). If there is no foot valve, how to install it? From what I understand it is supposed to be inside at the bottom of the tank, correct?

Upon writing this, the wife switches a valve and - water comes! This particular valve is.....how to describe... a short cut between the water from the public supply into our house.

Valve closed = water from the public system goes into the tank and is forced through the pump into the house.

Valve open = water can go into the tank but also directly into the house. This is for the event that there is no electricity so that we still can have water from outside at a lower pressure.

As to my understanding in a normal scenario this valve should be closed.

Interestingly, when I open the valve we have water in the house at decent pressure (i.e. pump seems to work fine). When I close this valve, no water in the house.

Any explanation to this?

[Crossy]

Normal operation the bypass valve would be closed (many installations use a non-return valve here for fully automatic operation).

I expect you have something like this:-

Sounds like you have air in the pump. Try this.

With the pump powered off, and the tank exit valve open remove the bleed plug (this is normally at the top of the pump chamber (I don't know your pump but it should be obvious). Water should come out under the pressure from the tank assuming the tank water level is above the pump (this arrangement does not need a foot valve). Put the plug back. Close the bypass valve. Power up the pump, things should now function normally.

If not, report back

Don't run the pump with the bypass valve open, you're just pumping water round in circles

[Artisi]

Normal operation the bypass valve would be closed (many installations use a non-return valve here for fully automatic operation).

I expect you have something like this:-

Sounds like you have air in the pump. Try this.

With the pump powered off, and the tank exit valve open remove the bleed plug (this is normally at the top of the pump chamber (I don't know your pump but it should be obvious). Water should come out under the pressure from the tank assuming the tank water level is above the pump (this arrangement does not need a foot valve). Put the plug back. Close the bypass valve. Power up the pump, things should now function normally.

If not, report back

Don't run the pump with the bypass valve open, you're just pumping water round in circles

Crossy - a standard text book installation but would be better with an isolating valve before the NRV in the by-pass line.

With a set-up such as this, if the NRV in the bypass line is leaking then the pump will continue to run - an isolating valve give you the opportunity to prove the NRV is 100%.

Actually on my own system I got rid of the NRV (because of leakage) and use only an isolating valve, if the tank or pump go-down simply isolate them and open the by-pass valve.

[raro]

thanks Crossy, that is almost the set-up I have. Only difference is, I can switch off the bypass line. With that setting, the water from the public system runs ONLY trough the tank and pump. Valve open, it would be a setting as in your diagram.

Anyways, will try that and let you know.

In the meantime, the pump works a bit erratic, sometimes good pressure, sometimes not. Sometimes pumping like crazy without achieving results, sometimes good. Will report back...