Tractorquestion From Newbie

[anthoma]

Today we got our brand new Kubota B2420. I dont know anything about tractors and of course the manual only came in Thai.

Im not english so please forgive my language when i try to explain what my problem is.

I like to connect a waterpump to the tractor. I understand that i have to connect the pump to the connection behind on the tractor (powertool ore powersource?) were you also take power to for example a grasscutter (i dont know the english name for this). I understand that i have to put a wheel to this powersource and then connect to the pump whith a rubberchain (ore rubberband). I dont know the technical term on the pump i will buy, but im looking for as big as possible since we have 24 hp on the engine. The pump i will use for flooding ricepaddies so i have to have good capasity. (1100 l/min ore more).

So to the questions.

Is it possible for any of you to determ the diameter on the wheel i should buy to connect to the tractor, or will that depend on the size of the wheel on the pump?

There is 3 positions on the powertool . 540 - N - 960. I understand that you can adjust the speed on this powertool from 540 rpm to 960 rpm. Is this right?

Will the speed on this powertool be affected by the speed you have on your tractor ore will it be constant?

If the speed on the powertool is constant, 540 rpm ore 960 rpm, is this enough to use a pump, and if it is, what speed should i use?

[dave_boo]

I can't answer your questions as far as what is available in Thailand, but I'm interested in the answers and thus am subscribing by posting.

The connector on the back of your tractor is called a "PTO--Power Take Off" at least in America. We call the grasscutter a "Mower Deck".

Assuming there isn't a PTO mountable pump in Thailand you will have to rig up a wheel on the PTO. Going this route results in buying a seperate pump. The pump will tell you the operating speeds and you will have to do the math to figure out the correct sized wheels for both the pump and the tractor. For instance, if the pump says it needs to run between 1000-2000 RPMs you will want the wheel on the PTO to be exactly twice as big as the one on the pump (since it will double the speed of the PTO the pump will run at 1080 RPM or 1920 RPM).

The tractors I drove in the US kept the PTO at a constant velocity after the engine was running at a certain RPM. I.E., once the engine was running above say 600 RPM it didn't matter if it was there or 3000....the PTO was a constant speed.

[Pond Life]

Maizefarmer covered this question a while back with lots of detail & I think photos.

But, I cant find his post.

Maybe someone with better computer skills than me can find it.

[Gary A]

You must be careful that the rotation is in the right direction. I had that problem with my pump and tractor. Actually the tractor was way more powerful that what the pump needed. We ended up buying an 11 HP two wheel tractor. It is easy to setup and has plenty of power.

I don't know how many liters a minute the 11 HP pumps but it is a solid 4 inch stream of water at a fast idle.

[Pond Life]

Aha, found it.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Buying-Tract....html&st=25

Page 2

[anthoma]

Thanks for the replies and the link. I red Maizenfarmers post about the pump connected to a PTO and it was very interessting reading. Also a good tips from Gary A that i had to see that the pump was driving in the same direction as the PTO. That was not in my mind so here i could loose som money.

I guess the gearboxs he is talking about here is the same as if i connectt the pump to the pto with rubberbelt and that i adjust the size on the wheel on the pto so i get the rigth rpm on the pump?

Today i went to Ubon city to look for pump. We went both to Kubota and to Yanmar, but knowbody there had a clue about this. So we went to a big shop selling all kinds of pumps but also here they could not help us anything.

One kind of pump i looked at is the same kind of pump they use in these Honda gasolinpumps. But these had a wheel so you can connect to a engine with a rubberbelt.

The rpm on all these pumps were 3600 - 4000 and the capasity on the largest was 1000 l/m.

There was also a different kind of pump a little bit bigger and more solid and heavy and they had a rpm about 1500-2000. The biggest one of them with 4 inch connections did not have the spesifications on so i'm not sure but smaller pumps of that kind (not same brand) said 50m3 pr hour and rpm 1600.

Both these kind of pumps (the largest ones) kost between 3-4 000 bath.

If i buy the first kind of pump i need to get the RPM up to 4000. If i use the pto on 960 that will say that i have to connect a wheel to the pto that is 4 times larger than the wheel on the pump. Is that right?

Maybe stupid question but how do you see if at wheel si 4 times larger. Do yo go for the diameter ore the cm/ inch around the wheel?

And finaly a last question. On the pumps they said: Max head 30-40m. What does that meen?

[Foreverford]

Aha, found it.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Buying-Tract....html&st=25

Page 2

well done Pond Life definitely required reading before buying a tractor. Anthoma I believe might want to consider another implement purchase and it would probably pay for itself many times over in the long run. I think the purchase of a two wheel buffalo with the accompanying pump attachments may prove to be a better investment in the long run as the cost to deliver water and the wear and tear on the equipment would justify the buffalo (trying to find a suitable PTO pump for his small hp Kubota in Thailand, the high price it would require for this specialty item along with some form of hard suction will be either troubleome or costly or both).

I just notice that Anthoma just wrote agian that he is looking for a remote pump for the tractor at 3-4000 baht and Kubutoa was clueless in helping him find a pump suitable for his small tractor.

Anthoma i would reccomend that you seriously and serious is the reasion I'm taking my time to pass this on to you, consider looking at a complete pump set up with a two wheel "buffalo". Your capacity to pump water may be slightly less but just run the thing a few extra hours to make up for it. You will have thousands of people able to operate and asssist you in operating it and repairs can be made by the blind in the dark or on a sunny day. You were able to purchase a new tractor and it wil have a much longer life and you will have the versatility of using the buffalo for other jobs which might save your Kubota a bunch more. The "buffalo" is ubiquitous and you are up and running immediately and SAFELY as there are no unknown factors due to their use and popularity. It appears that you are going to be ;learning a lot about grease and oil and wrenches and nuts and bolts along with micro-biotic life and i am extremely nervous think of you trying to "create" a pump that will suffice for your horsepower, structure of set up, and and source of water. Obviously an nice Cat diesel pump is the way to go and MF had some nice photos of PTO pumps for 100 hp tractors but in general I think you would have to create your own pump set up or have someone else do it for you with belts and steel structures. It may be a bit more costly to go my route but in the end when you are not pumping water you still have a nice "hardly" used Kubota ready for what you want to do and the ability to use the buffalo to help pull it out when you eventually get it stuck somewhere (and you will everybody does, I have my story of the the Cat D-6 dozer that we were able to get out after two days of tree cutting and cribbing and backhoes. It's not uncommon to see two D-8's in tandem spinning and stuck in the lettuce fields of the Salina Valley of California trying to get out that last trailer of "green gold", lettuce, in the dead of winter. They can stay there for over a month until the ground dries a bit and then they'll try to get them out).

Rent a man and his buffalo for a few days to pump water for you and see what you think. The reason i write this is because i was a fireman (Yeah I had my share of hot rod water pumps) while farming in California and everybody thoguht at the tine that fighting fire was the most dangerous job at the time (coal minig had dropped off a bunch and so had the related fatalities, sorry about China) in the US but it wasn't as farming topped the list then. This is the reason i went thru this convoluted mess because I am very concerned about your physical weel being and it scares me to death to think of a novice operator using a PTO on a non attacched pump that is belt driven AND home made. It's too big a task that you are taking on with out the proper experience. Good luck and remember nobody should be within at least 10 yards of the tractor when the PTO drive shaft is spinning (obviously that doesn't pertain to the operator who is about 1.5 away and looking at it right between the eyes. I hope you may have heard this before but it is the most important thing for a novice operator SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY. Alsways put safety first and don't try anything new if there is any chance that it might not be safe. Choke Dee and give your two wheel buffalo a kiss for me.

[Gary A]

I too recommend a two wheel Kubota tractor. After a lot of searching, I found out that most pumps and irrigation systems are designed for the mechanical buffaloes. Every farm store in our area has many pumps and other devices designed for these very popular little diesels.

[farmerjo]

I advise against a pulley directly off the pto shaft,youll run into problems.

What you need is the pump stand accessory,a three point linkage mounted frame which you bolt your pump on top,underneath is a pto shaft to a straight shaft with bearings at either end and pulley mounted on the straight shaft.you couple your pump to the pulley with a fan belt.

This makes it flexible to move around without disconnecting anything.

Paid 6000 baht for mine,which i thought expensive at the time but wouldnt be without now.

[anthoma]

Thats exactly what we are doing now. My GF found a guy at a local workshop that is a "spesialist" on this she said. He knows exactly what to do according to here. He's building everything into a frame that we then connect to the tractor. The only thing i'm worried about is the size of the weel connected to the shaft that goes into the pto. I told my GF to explain to him about the 960 rpm on the pto against the 4000 rpm on the pump. The looks on the guy when my GF explained this to him did not make me confedent, but maybe he was bothered by beeing explained thing that he already know. Well we have to see what we get.

[Maizefarmer]

Thats exactly what we are doing now. My GF found a guy at a local workshop that is a "spesialist" on this she said. He knows exactly what to do according to here. He's building everything into a frame that we then connect to the tractor. The only thing i'm worried about is the size of the weel connected to the shaft that goes into the pto. I told my GF to explain to him about the 960 rpm on the pto against the 4000 rpm on the pump. The looks on the guy when my GF explained this to him did not make me confedent, but maybe he was bothered by beeing explained thing that he already know. Well we have to see what we get.

Yes - agreed: a 3point hitch mounted frame is your best option - but are you sure about that pump speed - 4000rpm(??), and I hope you are not running a pump that requires x hp from a tractor engine that produces x hp(?). Thats okay if you are running in direct drive (i.e. no gears or pulleys), but it won't work if you are having to increase the pto shaft speed through pulleys to bring it up to the pump rpm speed - the torque required is not going to be avaliable from the tractors engine to turn the pump efficiently.

Remember - if you multiply your pto shaft speed 4 x, you are going to have significant impact on the torque required e.g. if the pump requires x amount of hp to turn at 4000rpm (and I'd check that speed again to make sure), and the tractor engine speed has to be multiplied 4 x's through a 1:4 ratio primary/secondary pulley arrangement, you'd better check a number of things:

1) engine torque output i.e. you are almost certainly going to have to run the tractor not at max engine hp rpm, but at max engine torque rpm - which is usualy around 25% less than max hp rpm on small/medium sized tractors.

2) your tractor hp output is going to have to be around double the hp requirement of the pump.

3) you are going to almost certainly have to use 2, and better still 3 belts - and ensure the belt profile is the correct profile for the pulley groove profile - else you are going to suffer from slip (10% slip will equal 10% more fuel consumed - in simple terms), excessive heat build up and quick belt breakdown also results when the belt/pulley profiles don't match.

Belt & pulley arrangements can be very efficient drive transfer and multiplication set-ups, but if not set up PROPERLY they become very in-efficient.

Comments

- PTO shaft power is normally around 10% - 15% less than the tractor engine rated output power.

- if you have a 540 rpm option on the pto - use this speed (much better torque output characteristics) and set the primary/secondary pulley ratio for 1:8

- check the pump rpm/volume/pressure graph - there may be some benefit to running this pump at one or other end of the graph to get the best efficiency.

- chance of a picture of the pump and some info regards its rpm/flow/pressure outputs (graph)?

- you are worried about the size of the pulley? - the pulley on the pto side, whatever size it is, should have a circumference of around 4 times longer than the circumference of the pulley on the pump side (for a 1 turn to 4 turn ratio) - take a piece of string and wrap it around the wheel/pulley groove, and use this to compare the 2 - will give you a fairly accurate indication of the relationship between the 2.

[Gary A]

The PTO speed of 960 seems very high. My 30 HP Yanmar has a 2 speed PTO, 560 and 765 RPM. The rotary tiller runs at the 540 speed and the 765 speed is way to fast. Running the rotary at 960 would make the rotary tiller fly away.

[anthoma]

Thats exactly what we are doing now. My GF found a guy at a local workshop that is a "spesialist" on this she said. He knows exactly what to do according to here. He's building everything into a frame that we then connect to the tractor. The only thing i'm worried about is the size of the weel connected to the shaft that goes into the pto. I told my GF to explain to him about the 960 rpm on the pto against the 4000 rpm on the pump. The looks on the guy when my GF explained this to him did not make me confedent, but maybe he was bothered by beeing explained thing that he already know. Well we have to see what we get.

Yes - agreed: a 3point hitch mounted frame is your best option - but are you sure about that pump speed - 4000rpm(??), and I hope you are not running a pump that requires x hp from a tractor engine that produces x hp(?). Thats okay if you are running in direct drive (i.e. no gears or pulleys), but it won't work if you are having to increase the pto shaft speed through pulleys to bring it up to the pump rpm speed - the torque required is not going to be avaliable from the tractors engine to turn the pump efficiently.

Remember - if you multiply your pto shaft speed 4 x, you are going to have significant impact on the torque required e.g. if the pump requires x amount of hp to turn at 4000rpm (and I'd check that speed again to make sure), and the tractor engine speed has to be multiplied 4 x's through a 1:4 ratio primary/secondary pulley arrangement, you'd better check a number of things:

1) engine torque output i.e. you are almost certainly going to have to run the tractor not at max engine hp rpm, but at max engine torque rpm - which is usualy around 25% less than max hp rpm on small/medium sized tractors.

2) your tractor hp output is going to have to be around double the hp requirement of the pump.

3) you are going to almost certainly have to use 2, and better still 3 belts - and ensure the belt profile is the correct profile for the pulley groove profile - else you are going to suffer from slip (10% slip will equal 10% more fuel consumed - in simple terms), excessive heat build up and quick belt breakdown also results when the belt/pulley profiles don't match.

Belt & pulley arrangements can be very efficient drive transfer and multiplication set-ups, but if not set up PROPERLY they become very in-efficient.

Comments

- PTO shaft power is normally around 10% - 15% less than the tractor engine rated output power.

- if you have a 540 rpm option on the pto - use this speed (much better torque output characteristics) and set the primary/secondary pulley ratio for 1:8

- check the pump rpm/volume/pressure graph - there may be some benefit to running this pump at one or other end of the graph to get the best efficiency.

- chance of a picture of the pump and some info regards its rpm/flow/pressure outputs (graph)?

- you are worried about the size of the pulley? - the pulley on the pto side, whatever size it is, should have a circumference of around 4 times longer than the circumference of the pulley on the pump side (for a 1 turn to 4 turn ratio) - take a piece of string and wrap it around the wheel/pulley groove, and use this to compare the 2 - will give you a fairly accurate indication of the relationship between the 2.

I been to the workshop again and checked the pump he is using. Its the same pump that they use in these Honda gasolinpumps.

There are two spesifications on the pump. One for pumping capasity 900 l/m and one for 1100 l/m.

For 900 l/m it says rpm 3600, hp 5 and max head 30m.

For 1100 l/m it says rpm 4000, hp 6 and max head 38m.

On the rpm-meter on the tractor there is a red mark on 2500 rpm and under its written in red: pto 540 so now i know how much speed i have to have on the tractor to get 540 rpm on the pto. The tractor has 24 hp.

His not started to make anything yet because he had to order a shaft from Ubon city so i dont know excactly what his plan is but i just have to hope that he knows what his doing.

[Gary A]

No doubt, he'll get it to work but you are using a 24 HP tractor to run a 6 HP pump.

[Maizefarmer]

Thats exactly what we are doing now. My GF found a guy at a local workshop that is a "spesialist" on this she said. He knows exactly what to do according to here. He's building everything into a frame that we then connect to the tractor. The only thing i'm worried about is the size of the weel connected to the shaft that goes into the pto. I told my GF to explain to him about the 960 rpm on the pto against the 4000 rpm on the pump. The looks on the guy when my GF explained this to him did not make me confedent, but maybe he was bothered by beeing explained thing that he already know. Well we have to see what we get.

Yes - agreed: a 3point hitch mounted frame is your best option - but are you sure about that pump speed - 4000rpm(??), and I hope you are not running a pump that requires x hp from a tractor engine that produces x hp(?). Thats okay if you are running in direct drive (i.e. no gears or pulleys), but it won't work if you are having to increase the pto shaft speed through pulleys to bring it up to the pump rpm speed - the torque required is not going to be avaliable from the tractors engine to turn the pump efficiently.

Remember - if you multiply your pto shaft speed 4 x, you are going to have significant impact on the torque required e.g. if the pump requires x amount of hp to turn at 4000rpm (and I'd check that speed again to make sure), and the tractor engine speed has to be multiplied 4 x's through a 1:4 ratio primary/secondary pulley arrangement, you'd better check a number of things:

1) engine torque output i.e. you are almost certainly going to have to run the tractor not at max engine hp rpm, but at max engine torque rpm - which is usualy around 25% less than max hp rpm on small/medium sized tractors.

2) your tractor hp output is going to have to be around double the hp requirement of the pump.

3) you are going to almost certainly have to use 2, and better still 3 belts - and ensure the belt profile is the correct profile for the pulley groove profile - else you are going to suffer from slip (10% slip will equal 10% more fuel consumed - in simple terms), excessive heat build up and quick belt breakdown also results when the belt/pulley profiles don't match.

Belt & pulley arrangements can be very efficient drive transfer and multiplication set-ups, but if not set up PROPERLY they become very in-efficient.

Comments

- PTO shaft power is normally around 10% - 15% less than the tractor engine rated output power.

- if you have a 540 rpm option on the pto - use this speed (much better torque output characteristics) and set the primary/secondary pulley ratio for 1:8

- check the pump rpm/volume/pressure graph - there may be some benefit to running this pump at one or other end of the graph to get the best efficiency.

- chance of a picture of the pump and some info regards its rpm/flow/pressure outputs (graph)?

- you are worried about the size of the pulley? - the pulley on the pto side, whatever size it is, should have a circumference of around 4 times longer than the circumference of the pulley on the pump side (for a 1 turn to 4 turn ratio) - take a piece of string and wrap it around the wheel/pulley groove, and use this to compare the 2 - will give you a fairly accurate indication of the relationship between the 2.

I been to the workshop again and checked the pump he is using. Its the same pump that they use in these Honda gasolinpumps.

There are two spesifications on the pump. One for pumping capasity 900 l/m and one for 1100 l/m.

For 900 l/m it says rpm 3600, hp 5 and max head 30m.

For 1100 l/m it says rpm 4000, hp 6 and max head 38m.

On the rpm-meter on the tractor there is a red mark on 2500 rpm and under its written in red: pto 540 so now i know how much speed i have to have on the tractor to get 540 rpm on the pto. The tractor has 24 hp.

His not started to make anything yet because he had to order a shaft from Ubon city so i dont know excactly what his plan is but i just have to hope that he knows what his doing.

Okay - thats all in order, understood - last couple points: these Honda pumps are fine - so long as the NPSH is close to zero i.e. so long as the pump is not having to lift the water any more than a meter or so to get it into the pump - if the pump is any higher than that above the water, the output rate plummets like a stone.

Lastly, keep in mind that those flow figures are not for max head - at max head, again like having to lift the water to the pump, the output rate will fall quite dramatically - so keep the output nice and big and as low as possible and things should be fine.

[anthoma]

Thanks for all the help.

Just one more question. What does max head 30 m means? Is it if you connect a firehose ore pvc-pipes to the pump they should not be more than 30 meter, ore does it meen that you cant pump more than 30 meter up?

[seedy]

Head means how far the pump will lift the water - in this case 30 M from the discharge point. This is in a perfect world, you will never see this much. Lift means how far from the suction inlet it will raise the water - same rule applies. Both these figures will never be realized in real life. Use as few bends as possible, and if you must make them gentle bends not abrupt changes of direction.

[anthoma]

Head means how far the pump will lift the water - in this case 30 M from the discharge point. This is in a perfect world, you will never see this much. Lift means how far from the suction inlet it will raise the water - same rule applies. Both these figures will never be realized in real life. Use as few bends as possible, and if you must make them gentle bends not abrupt changes of direction.

Thank you for the answer. I dont need to lift the water but i need to transport it straigt from the pump to the closest paddie and thats about 60 meter. I was thinking about using a firehose and that should then not be a problem since i dont have to pump uphill.

[Maizefarmer]

Aaaah, anthoma, you have invested in some used fire hoses (10 meter lengths - black or red rubber linings inside, or no rubber lining inside?) ... yes, they 're great - yes, that should be fine over 60meters lying on the ground - and if you have sufficient lengths consider running 2 hosepipe lines i.e. take the water out of the pump with 45degree split, not a 90% t-piece, and then split the 45degrees to run down 2 lengths of hose.

You can buy blue plastic pvc fittings from most hadrware stores to make up this arrangement for I wouldn;t have thought much more than a few hundred Baht - and if you post up a picture on ther forum of exactly what the ouput connection on the pump looks like and what size it is in inches (or mm/cm's) I will be able to tel you exatcly what fittings to get and how to make this "split" up.

Whats important here is to keep the pump suction/input as close to water level as you can - and I mean real real close - as real close to the water level as you can - meaning: the water level that you are pumping from/out of - suction affects pump output flow substantialy more so than does pump head (head - meaning the height above the pump output to which the water is been pumped to).

In short: reduce suction at the expense of head - always your first choice and a much more efficient way to setup a pump to pump, than to increase the suction tas as to reduce the heigth above the pump to which the water is going to be pumped to. Another way of putting all this: looked at from a vertical perspective - the closer the pump is to the source it is taking the water from, as opposed to the destination to which the pump i pumping the water to, the more water you will pump for any given time period.

One more tip: where the fire hose outputs its water into the rice paddy - place a large piece of 4 x 8 plyboard weighted down by some stones/ash blocks, or pile up some stones on the paddy floor - either method will be just fine - this will protect the pond bottom from getting badly erroded by the water as it flows out of the firehose - and believ me, a 1000 litres a minute following from a 3" - 4" hose, its going to errode a nice big trench into the base of the rice paddy over a few hours.

Hope this goes well - and please do take some pictures of the pump setup/frame will you - I'm keen to see just what your man puts together for you.

[RedBullHorn]

Actually i was kind of scratching my head a bit as i read this topic....i mean...all and all, it is water that you want to pump to the paddies 60m away. You could just buy a long tail pipe with a Honda GX200~6.5hp motor( those use on motor boat and sampan or grasscutter trolley) and 5'' inches fire hoses.

I was fed-up with the diesel two wheeler "buffalo" tractor that i've to burrow from the uncles every time i harvest my ponds. I use 3 of them at one go during harvesting, the hustle of setting up the pipes alignment with the tractor and investment on the rubberbelt and securing it for tension....then moving the whole set up to another pond again and again ....and it take 2 person to move and to do the set up...

If i were to buy a two wheel tractor, it would me about 25'000 Bht for a full spec second hand, so i opt for a 5x16 and two 5x18 long tail pipe with the Honda 6.5hp motor direct shaft equipment. Villagers told me that it uses petrol instate of diesel so would incur more cost but i think differently because every time i burrow the tractor...they all came half fill in the tank and in the end when i return i've to fill it up full tank as courtesy to show my appreciation...so burrowing cost more than patrol and i was told that benzine petrol motor are much better RPM-torque than diesel engine/motor per fuel consumption.

There's no set up hustle....just the pipe and the 6.5hp motor mounted on the stand at the head that is directly shaft....no pulley no belt...i carry the pipe on my shoulder and off i go...to anywhere i want to stick the pipe in(be it pond or the stream), put the other pipe on the utility cart and my wife just push it along. I don't know if it is firehoses to you because the 5'' inches hoses are made from ''grade A'' material that produces umbrellas with no inner liner, grade B hoses are line with black colour rubber liner....i've got a combine hoses' length of about 300 meters for all 3 pipes....Ultimately, it is that convenient....i do not have to fix a date to burrow the uncles' tractors as they may be tie up in their daily agriculture activities and the feeling of being a hostage at their mercy when they say:"i'm not free on these day or not free on that day...blah..blah...blah...." And after i've used them, just store them beside the farm shed or just dismount the motor for safe keeping(mounting and dismounting the motor takes only 2 minutes) and leave the pipe on the dike.

These longtail pipe are custom made for direct shaft motor attachment only as the input tail are roughly the same diameter as the 5'' inches pipe, the protection grill is about 6.5'' inches in diameter, it uses a twin turbine propeller.(same motor propeller use on a sampan boat) The motor would not have enough hp on conventional pulley longtail pipe with a big multi-turbine propeller input tail that pair wells with the two wheeler tractor. It come in variable length...5x6 feet, 5x8, 5x14, 5x16 and 5x18 feet

and i was told together(pipe and motor) it could produce up to 100'000 liter/hour.

The cost of a 5x18 pipe is 2 thousand over Bht and 7 thousand plus for a Honda GX200 6.5HP motor....altogether i paid 9'750 Bht inclusive of delivery fee of 100 Bht.

These is just an option if...like i've said....if all you want.... is just to get water to your paddies.

Regards

RBH

[RedBullHorn]

Hi anthoma, thought you might want to check out the long tail pipe and Honda engine that i've mention above

in regards to transporting water to your paddies plots...

here's the link...

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?s=...t&p=3237478

[anthoma]

Hi anthoma, thought you might want to check out the long tail pipe and Honda engine that i've mention above

in regards to transporting water to your paddies plots...

here's the link...

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/index.php?s=...t&p=3237478

Thank you for the link RedBullHorn. Very interesting about these long tail pipes. We have them here in our village. Can rent them for 150 bath pr day. Here they come with a pulley and they connect them to the twowheel tractors with a rubberband.

No i,ve been pumping water with my tractor into a about 1 Rai paddy for one months. The rice is growing fine. It takes about 3-4 hours to flood the paddy. What im thinking about is since i have a tractor with 24 hp that it would be possible to connect both my pump connected to the tractor, and a long tail pipe and run them from the pto on the tractor. The pulley i have on the pto i can connect two rubbebands. The pump on the tractor is connectet over the pto, and if i then put the long tail pipe under the tractor, it maybee should be possible to run both pumps and get about 150 000 liter pr hour. That would flood the paddy in 1 hour. Before i buy one of these long tail pipes i will rent one and try it out.

I will now make a 80 meter canal from were i put the pump and to the paddy so it will be easy for me to transport the water. Now im using a firehose but if i also like to use the long tail pipe i have to buy one more firehose and they was a bit expencive.