Good morning all , last week my wife and I visited her village near Yasathon ,where wev`e had our house built, While we were there Su (my wife) decided to wash our pickup , its a black toyota prerunner , unfortunately she used a discarded paint bucket with residue of white paint in the bottom of it unbeknown to me , until yesterday at the car wash when I noticed white spashes on the bonnet and she `confessed` to using the old paint bucket . We did ask the guys at the car wash to try and remove the splashes , they tried but were unable to remove them, the splahes have `set` hard and would not budge when they tried to polish them out . Does anybody have any sugestions to remove these splashes without causing futher damage to the black paint work of the bonnet , or is it a strip and respray of that area ??

Toyota's body shop maybe able to rub it out. Short of that repaint the hood.

light cutting/rubbing compound, then re-wax 1600 should be fine, higher the better

oz

I had some pretty bad scuff marks on the paint of my side view mirror. I tried everything to get it off. Since I couldn't get it off, I assumed it was permanent and left it that way for years. One day I was at a body shop and asked how much they'd charge to fix it. The guy told me to just use some lacquer thinner. I was really worried this would take the paint completely off, but since there was ugly black scuff marks already there, I decided to try it and it worked great.

You could try lacquer thinner as well, just a very little bit on a clean white cloth. Then go over the paint streaks lightly.

i'd try the buffing route, rather than the chemical route.... you really can't control the chemical route as well

I have taken paint splashes off a car before using a sharp knife edge.

House paint is alot softer than that used on a car so as long as your careful it can be got off.

car paint is cellulose based where household paint is turps, you might get away with using turps on the household paint, if not then looks like a respray

car paint is cellulose based where household paint is turps, you might get away with using turps on the household paint, if not then looks like a respray

Car paint has not used cellulose for around 20 years.

in the UK you would use T-Cut which is a liquid with very mild abrasive, would get it off in seconds. Not sure if it's available here though.

Use petrol to remove paint on the car, also removes tar splashes, lot's of things.

then wash it and polish it and all should be well. Believe me it works.

sounds like it could have be much worse. count your blessings.

sounds like it could have be much worse. count your blessings.

Things can always be worse... strange comment.

Sounds like.. "Yea i know it sucks loosing a leg.. but look at it this way you could have lost your other one too."

OT

I would suggest the poster to look in the motor forum of Thai-Visa. There are some real knowledgeable people there. IMHO there is always a risk whatever you do and you have to think about it it might make things worse.

There are some real knowledgeable people there.

Good idea, but I will tell the OP that the petrol will work, and not damage his paintwork.

Here is a link for you http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-to-remove-paint-from-car.html

his wife used a paint bucket to wash the car (rofl), i would say that some splashes on the bonnet is a best case scenario.

Your wifes didn't told u about it? Woooow what a nice trustfully relationship u got there.

Yes...it is a "I don't want to lose my face" thing.

Your wifes didn't told u about it? Woooow what a nice trustfully relationship u got there.

Yes...it is a "I don't want to lose my face" thing.

<deleted> are you talking about , she , we , didn`t notice the splashes until yesterday at the car wash , <deleted> all to do with `face ` knobhead ! that said , thanks to all you other guys for consructive advice .

Just leave it there. I think the splash looks nice & unique. Your wife must be an artist who are bore about her usual canvas.

Just leave it there. I think the splash looks nice & unique. Your wife must be an artist who are bore about her usual canvas.

Maybe you could add some of them fake bullet holes also..they seem to be all the rage up in issan..

car paint is cellulose based where household paint is turps, you might get away with using turps on the household paint, if not then looks like a respray

Car paint has not used cellulose for around 20 years.

in the UK you would use T-Cut which is a liquid with very mild abrasive, would get it off in seconds. Not sure if it's available here though.

Try about 1940 cellulose went out when they started using lacquer base paints.

if you can get a hold of some Mequires #7 & try rubbing it out it will remove the paint & not cause swirl marks from the buffing wheel.Or if you can't find Meguires use a light polishing compound if that does not cut it down try a rubbing compound & then a polishing compound afterwords to bring out the luster. As it was mentioned before find out what type of thinner was used in the paint thrown on your truck. It may be just latex & will come out easily. If it is turpentine or a similar thinner apply the thinner on a rag & rub the white paint off the surface. Avoid rubbing the edges of the panel you are working on. The ends are always the weakest point of the paint job. That includes any rubbing disk used, best body shop trick to use on edges is several layers of tape 3M or the like so if you do hit the edge you won't burn the paint & cause untold heartaches & aggravation to your nice factory paint job.

If you can feel the paint splashes with your fingernail, a plastic scraper should be able to lift them off. Go easy. Any 'white' colored scratches after paint is gone is the clear coat. A quick polish with a swirl mark eliminator product should finish the job.

I would just have it repainted or pay to have it removed. Trying to do this yourself will probably bring loads of pain and anger

I would just have it repainted or pay to have it removed. Trying to do this yourself will probably bring loads of pain and anger

I couldn't agree more accept a repaint especially in Thailand would be hel_l to match the original finish. That is why first he needs to find out what type of paint it is to determine the thinner. Lacquer thinner or turpentine thinners won't harm the paint at all.

I wouldn't use enamel reducer as that is what the trucks original paint is shot with.

next is the easy part if that does not do the trick. Get a polishing wax or a substance with something that does not leave swirls in the paint- 98% of the time it WILL say swirl eliminator or reducer in the directions or the front of the product. I say 98% in Thailand because some nimrods never give adequate descriptions here.

3rd even ash from a fire or cigarettes but act as a mild polishing compound & if it is free of debris it won't screw up the paint. Polishing compounds are pretty cheap.

You can do all the first 3 by hand & see if it is working before breaking out a buffer.

If you have no luck at this point buff it out(only if you are good at finesse on working on paint & exercise common sense & know when to quit & let a pro do it if you are in over your head. 4th would be to cut with a high number wet & dry sandpaper & buff it to polish. The truck has a tack coat(very light amount of paint) followed by 2 coats of even sprayed paint by robotics, so if your not putting on a ton of pressure the paint should be fine in regards to getting to thin-BUT do stay away from any edges. It is the Achilles heel of any paint job. if you do decide to cut & buff make sure it is with wet & dry paper & 800 grit & up. Repaint should be the last attempt to repair the problem.Believe it or not some of the custom paint shops I have seen will shoot with gasoline. It works-but the drying time is way different than a quality enamel reducer or lacquer paint job. The repaint may be lacquer over the original paint to blend. Enamel on enamel in the long run will give you more durability over the years.

Good luck on which ever way you go & if you think you are getting in over your head, take it to a shop & ask how they intend on fixing the panel that is affected. You are fortunate it is black. Easy color to match. Green (any shade) is a nightmare.

I am sure some of the above advice is excellent, but only the last one has put his finger on the first thing to do - establish exactly what sort of "paint" it was. Until you know that, do nothing - it could even be emulsion as most large paint cans used as buckets in Issan are. If so, forget all the above and use lots of soapy (car shampoo) water and patience.

If solvent based, non acrylic/ PU, simple turpentines/ white spirit will do the work, it will not damage the hard PU clearcoat. Maybe just dull-ing it, a quick cut/ polish will do.

Waterbased, emulsions can be attacked with solution of water + ketones. If you can't find any ketone solvents, get any lacquer thinner off the shelf, dilute it with water, it will come right out.

If any of the above method don't work, you can use sand paper grade #1000, followed by #1500, then cuuting compound and wax. Becareful how much of the original clear coat you remove though.

The absolute first solution you should try is clay - it's non-abrasive, very effective at removing bonded contaminants, and you don't need to be an expert to use it correctly/safely.

If that doesn't work (and I'd be surprised if it didn't) then a rubbing compound is your next logical step, however I would not recommend it as a DIY job with the clear-coat on your pickup unless you're well versed in using the stuff.

http://www.meguiars.co.th/message/?MID=3&tblpoint=p&parent_id=1&targetid=pc_id&pc_id=9&page=bycate