Mae Hong Son Loop

[Lancelot]

107 1095 108

I finally got off my butt and made the Mae Hong Son loop counter clock wise from Chiang Mai-and I’m glad that I did.

Day one started a bit late; I crossed the Mae Nam Ping river at 12 noon and headed north on 107. Nothing much of interest on this segment but I did get a bowl of pork noodle soup that was delicious and only 20 baht to boot. My waitress warned me that the chili powder was “ped maak!” and she wasn’t lying. The color was a deep red, almost scarlet and the grind was extra fine so a little dab would do ya!

Just past Mae Taeng I hit some rain and the proverbial question “Do I stay or do I go?” crossed my mind. The weather seemed to be moving east, so I thought screw it and ten minutes later it was clear skys again.

I spied some crosses in grave yard, so I went for a closer look. I thought they might possibly be WWII related but all of the inscriptions were in a script that didn’t appear to be Thai, but it sure wasn’t English. A missionary grave yard perhaps?

Entering Pai I stopped at the Memorial Bridge and reflected for a moment about all of those poor bastards that slaved away building the Death Railway to Burma.

I rolled into Pai at about 1730 and decided on a 200 baht hillside bungalow at Shangrila east of the Pai river. Clean wooden building, hot water shower, good mattress and I would stay there again.

The highway prom Pai to MHS was curvy and fun to ride. The first day CM -Pai I noticed many tourists vans, but on day two there were considerably less. The road was practically deserted and a very pleasant chang from the congestion of Chiang Mai. I found the rooms a bit more expensive in MHS, but were talking 300 instead of 200 so no big deal. I ate some Rad Na at a restaurant near the pond, then went back to my room and crashed.

Up early again I pressed on for Mae Sariang.

I found my self enjoying the ride more and more and became a little more aggressive in the turns. Ok, ok, I know my Mini Beast is a little 110cc Wave but its all relative guys.

I Fueled up on 108 and pressed on when I noticed a sign pointing to Mae Sariang Immigration. I had almost missed the town! I drove down by the river and selected River Bank Guest House and being a discerning fellow I opted for the 250 baht room-because it had a live tree trunk that entered from the floor and exited at the ceiling. Ripley’s Believe it or Not has nothing on the Lance, LOL!

Again up early the next day about 10 kms out of Mae Sariang I noticed pools of water and debris washed up from the ditch onto the road. Must have had a real gully washer late in the night.

Now I noticed very green and productive truck patches of cabbage and other vegetables in the valley below. The greenery was a real –and pleasant change- from the brown, water deprived hills around Mae Hong Son and Pai.

For several kilometers 108 parallels the river and I noticed little huts for swimmers (?) to relax and catch the cool river breeze. All the necessary food, beer and other supplies were readily on hand to pamper and comfort any tourist choosing to relax there. I may have to return there just to while away the heat of the upcoming summer.

Well, all good things must end and the scenery changed from the abundance of nature to the mundane bane of our modern existence. Some kids must have read my mind because they were celebrating Songkran early on April 9. Yeah, they got me good with two buckets of water.

The final 25 kilometrs to Chiang Mai were congested with holiday travelers returning to their villages to celebrate the traditional Thai New Year. I headed straight for Chiang Mai Saloon and ordered a large Leo and my favorite 129 baht pork chop with baked potato.

It was great to go and it’s good to be back.

Lance out!

And a Happy 2555 to you…

Edited April 12, 2011 by Lancelot

[JonnyF]

Nice report and some good photos as well - I'm pretty jealous.

I think you posted a while back with another long road trip on the Wave didn't you? My original plan when I came here was to ride the entire country on a Honda Wave but the plan never materialised. Maybe when the current job finishes...

[Lancelot]

Nice report and some good photos as well - I'm pretty jealous.

I think you posted a while back with another long road trip on the Wave didn't you? My original plan when I came here was to ride the entire country on a Honda Wave but the plan never materialised. Maybe when the current job finishes...

Thanks Johnny

Yeah I rode the Wave from Pattaya to Chiang Mai. Also from Pattaya to Koh Chang. The biggest down side is the small fuel tank, 3.7 liters. I've run her down to where the fuel guage needle was resting on the stop pin -way below "E"- but the most I ever refilled was 3.2 liters. Maybe in a pinch I coulc do 200 kMs on a tank, but that would really be stretching it...

[andrew55]

Thanks for sharing Lancelot.

Enjoyed the read and pics.

Ta.

[lovetotravel]

That loop is great. I've done it 3 times. Fantastic. Thanks for sharing.

Wow...Pattaya to CM on a wave. That's got to be tough on the butt! How long did it take you?

[Lancelot]

That loop is great. I've done it 3 times. Fantastic. Thanks for sharing.

Wow...Pattaya to CM on a wave. That's got to be tough on the butt! How long did it take you?

Its Iron Butt First Class, 555!

First time two days and one night. Second time four days and three nights

[lovetotravel]

That loop is great. I've done it 3 times. Fantastic. Thanks for sharing.

Wow...Pattaya to CM on a wave. That's got to be tough on the butt! How long did it take you?

Its Iron Butt First Class, 555!

First time two days and one night. Second time four days and three nights

55555

Did you have any scary moments? I would love to do something like this, but have seen too many grease marks on the roads. I'm getting a used scooter in a few weeks, but will only use it to cruise around where we live...outside of any major towns, but on a major highway...

My good friend just sold his 3 big bikes after 2 of his friends had serious accidents...and his wife crashed on one after hitting a bit of sand in the road.

[moe666]

Just spent a few days in Mae Hong Son and we rode a scooter out to the girlfriends village and back everyday. Some good curves but cannot over do it with a scooter.

Lancelot nice post and good pics

[Lancelot]

55555

Did you have any scary moments?

Just looking at my Wave scares me, 555!

Seriously, going through a small village, I looked away for one second and a guy in a pick up turns slowly right in front of me; I had to hit the brakes fairly hard to avoid hitting him broad side.

No body but him and me on the road but he just didn't care...

[MaiChai]

On a Wave, why not! At least you won't have any problems getting it fixed if it breaks down.

Too much snobbery in biking, I love all types of bikes!

The 'petness' of chilli depends on how deprived the chillies are of water. If you are in a very dry area you can be sure the chillies are really hot. This is why Thais have a problem gauging how much chilli to put in when cooking and it can turn out hotter (or not hot enough). Guess its a bit hard to 'dry run' test a chilli before you pop it in the pot

I must do this trip sometime; keep meaning to do it...

[Lancelot]

On a Wave, why not! At least you won't have any problems getting it fixed if it breaks down.

Too much snobbery in biking, I love all types of bikes!

The 'petness' of chilli depends on how deprived the chillies are of water. If you are in a very dry area you can be sure the chillies are really hot.

True, most Thais have been riding Waves since birth and repairing them is in their DNA, LOL.

Interesting about the chillies; the lady warned me beforehand and just by looking at them I could tell that the color was unusually dark red/scarlet

[guzzi850m2]

You been at it again eh Lancelot. Sounds like a good trip, well done.

I haven't done any trips on the HD lately due to an infant son, trying to sell the King and wants a Sporster due to riding alone.

Yes way too much snobbery regarding which bike you ride. As long as YOU ENJOY it, fuc_k them.

[Pikey]

You been at it again eh Lancelot. Sounds like a good trip, well done.

I haven't done any trips on the HD lately due to an infant son, trying to sell the King and wants a Sporster due to riding alone.

Yes way too much snobbery regarding which bike you ride. As long as YOU ENJOY it, fuc_k them.

Nice report Lancelot.

Got to agree with the above statement. Me and my mates normally ride "big" bikes but last week chose to go to Pai from CM for lunch on little bikes. There were 5 of us and the largest bike was a 135cc Yammie Spark. What an absolute hoot and surprisingly not that much slower than the big bikes - we worked out we averaged 60kph mainly because you just hold them pinned almost everywhere!

Screw the snobs - if you're on two wheels, that's all that matters

Cheers,

Pikey.

[mikecwm]

Thanks for the great write-up. I've done it by bus / pickup and car, but after reading this I want to do it by motorbike now.

Definately one of the most scenic parts of Thailand.

Thanks for the encouragement.

[Lancelot]

You been at it again eh Lancelot. Sounds like a good trip, well done.

I haven't done any trips on the HD lately due to an infant son, trying to sell the King and wants a Sporster due to riding alone.

Yes way too much snobbery regarding which bike you ride. As long as YOU ENJOY it, fuc_k them.

Nice report Lancelot.

Got to agree with the above statement. Me and my mates normally ride "big" bikes but last week chose to go to Pai from CM for lunch on little bikes. There were 5 of us and the largest bike was a 135cc Yammie Spark. What an absolute hoot and surprisingly not that much slower than the big bikes - we worked out we averaged 60kph mainly because you just hold them pinned almost everywhere!

Screw the snobs - if you're on two wheels, that's all that matters

Cheers,

Pikey.

Thanks guys! One nice thing about a small bike is that its so much easier to maneuver in congested traffic. I've also received a lot of encouragement from positive thinking bikers like yourselves.

[guzzi850m2]

I sold my Harley now. That was an expensive boy/toy to run, insurance alone was +20k bath a year, fuel ecu app. 12km/l and after I got my son only used 3-4 times a week for a spin around Pattaya and the odd trip with the HOG "brothers". To drive it around Pattaya was not pleasant (app. 340kg), I always went early in the morning at about 0900 where the traffic is light or you are stuck. Our little Fino is a blast in the city, quick from the red light, can make progress in heavy traffic without risking hitting anybody, fun-fun, I enjoy my shopping on it. Never went to say Carrefor on the HD as somebody might scratch the side bags.

I am not even sure I will buy another HD again because the price tag for what you get is very high and as mention earlier, too much snobbery related to it. Some of the HOG guys (not all) are looking through glasses with blinds on them, he-he, Harley or nothing mentality.

BUT because of all the Harley shirts I own, I might have to buy a HD Sporster later

We also have a Tiger Retro/w side car in the garage and when we drive around Patts on it, we get way more attention than on a Harley which I find very cool, he-he.

I would love to take a trip to North TL on a small Thai bike but due to my son I stay home or we all go in the car (for now).

[moe666]

A lot of back packers rent bikes in Chiang mai and ride over to Pai or Mae Hong Song. My knees just hurt to much after 30 min. from the riding position of scooters.

[JeffreyMcCollum]

Nice report and some good photos as well - I'm pretty jealous.

I think you posted a while back with another long road trip on the Wave didn't you? My original plan when I came here was to ride the entire country on a Honda Wave but the plan never materialised. Maybe when the current job finishes...

Thanks Johnny

Yeah I rode the Wave from Pattaya to Chiang Mai. Also from Pattaya to Koh Chang. The biggest down side is the small fuel tank, 3.7 liters. I've run her down to where the fuel guage needle was resting on the stop pin -way below "E"- but the most I ever refilled was 3.2 liters. Maybe in a pinch I coulc do 200 kMs on a tank, but that would really be stretching it...

Thanks for sharing a wonderful story. The photos are nice too! I am lucky and have many bikes, big to small. Have rode them all, all over Thailand including many 1 day Chiang Mai to Pattay trips on wave 100's and 125's. Sure I can use my Ninja or CBR but some times the little bike is easier to use. I would rather use my Wave or PCX than the D Tracker to Pattaya, my butt is killing be after 100 km. A few weeks back I rode with a group of 75 bikes on a 320 km loop. Many were afraid of their big bikes or crassing on their 2,000,000 Bt ducati. They were amazed I could keep up or ahead of most on my HOnda PCX125. I simply said "we know my bike isn't better or more powerful, so it must be the rider!" Any bike is better than no bike. Have fun, don't be afraid, get out there and use it, what every you ride. Isn't that part of the reason we live here in Thailand is to ride more ?

[Kf6vci]

Sounds like a wonderful fun trip. Thanks for sharing!

Chris

[Lancelot]

Our little Fino is a blast in the city, quick from the red light, can make progress in heavy traffic without risking hitting anybody, fun-fun, I enjoy my shopping on it. Never went to say Carrefor on the HD as somebody might scratch the side bags.

I would love to take a trip to North TL on a small Thai bike but due to my son I stay home or we all go in the car (for now).

I remember when I first purchased my little Mini Beast (Honda CZi 110) and I parked it away from other bikes hoping to avoid scratches. It didn't work and numerous little dings and scratches appeared. Of course I have only one bike and live in a rented room so I couldn't sequester my machine inside a walled home parking space. The rules are different here and if you park your bike in public places, its gonna get scratched eventually.

The few times that I have ridden in BKK my little bike allowed me to weave, albeit, slowly through traffice. I bigger bike can often keep you stuck in place. But for sure a larger bike would be more comfortable on longer trips.

If I do buy another bike, I would consider a Yamaha Spark 135 or maybe even a CBR 150 for a bit more cruising speed on long trips.

But the little Mini Beast has served me well na

[sendbaht]

Thanks Lancelot! I felt like a was there, a fine report...

[MaiChai]

Our little Fino is a blast in the city, quick from the red light, can make progress in heavy traffic without risking hitting anybody, fun-fun, I enjoy my shopping on it. Never went to say Carrefor on the HD as somebody might scratch the side bags.

I would love to take a trip to North TL on a small Thai bike but due to my son I stay home or we all go in the car (for now).

I remember when I first purchased my little Mini Beast (Honda CZi 110) and I parked it away from other bikes hoping to avoid scratches. It didn't work and numerous little dings and scratches appeared. Of course I have only one bike and live in a rented room so I couldn't sequester my machine inside a walled home parking space. The rules are different here and if you park your bike in public places, its gonna get scratched eventually.

The few times that I have ridden in BKK my little bike allowed me to weave, albeit, slowly through traffice. I bigger bike can often keep you stuck in place. But for sure a larger bike would be more comfortable on longer trips.

If I do buy another bike, I would consider a Yamaha Spark 135 or maybe even a CBR 150 for a bit more cruising speed on long trips.

But the little Mini Beast has served me well na

I use my girlfriend Suzuki Smash 110cc alot and its a tough beast. I recently rebuilt the engine and replace crankshaft bearing, etc, but this bike has received alot of abuse and done alot of kms, and its still going strong! Quite often I use it in preference to the NSR SP. Its just so easy to ride and really economical, easy and cheap to fix, and to be honest, the best 9000 baht I ever spent and that was 5 years ago! I was surprised how over engineered the engine is; the gears are really big and chunky. Suzuki's are very under rated here, and if you are in the market for a cheap bike (whether auto or manual), you can't go wrong with a Suzuki. Gf's aunt had a Mio, and she thought it was fuel thirsty, so she bought a Smash. She says its really frugal and does the job; she bought it new so they still make them!

The Spark 135 is a bit disappointing. Firstly its not very fast, and it only has 4 gears. Its too much like a Wave to be considered a serious bike. Gf's brother had one and I used it a couple of times; disappointing despite all the hype. The cbr150 is the bike to go for if you want something more akin to a sports bike, with the benefit of cheap maintenance and servicing.

[ClareQuilty]

I use my girlfriend Suzuki Smash 110cc alot and its a tough beast. I recently rebuilt the engine and replace crankshaft bearing, etc, but this bike has received alot of abuse and done alot of kms, and its still going strong! Quite often I use it in preference to the NSR SP. Its just so easy to ride and really economical, easy and cheap to fix, and to be honest, the best 9000 baht I ever spent and that was 5 years ago! I was surprised how over engineered the engine is; the gears are really big and chunky.

Just out of curiosity, how much did it cost for that engine rebuild?

[JeffreyMcCollum]

Nice report and some good photos as well - I'm pretty jealous.

My original plan when I came here was to ride the entire country on a Honda Wave but the plan never materialised. Maybe when the current job finishes...

I will be doing a loop of Thailand in April on a honda wave if you want to go covering all of Thailand, over 6000 km if you or anyone wants to join in on any kind of bike