Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm in the process of putting my NSR 150SP back together after an major engine overhaul/restoration, so far so good but i need some help from other NSR SP owners to put the wires from the CDI back in the right order.

When i was dismantling the bike i came across that it had 2 cdi units, i did some research about this and found out that older NSR's ( RR types) are fitted with 2 cdi's 1 for the ignition and other for the servo ( RC valve) SP types should have only one.

The reason that my SP has 2 cdi's is problally a cheap repair, (the bike was running well with the 2 cdi's but i never could reach the redline ( max was10.000 rpm) the wires are cut/ taped together and connections are made with the 2 cdi's to the main wire harnass.

Luckely all the wires are still there,( i checked the colors in my workshopmanual) and with some soldering and the use of heat shrink i should be able to restore the "damage"

But for putting back an original OEM CDI i will need some help.

The original Honda CDI has got 2 connectors , looking at it with the connectors at the top, left side white ( ignition) right side black ( servo) both sides one 2Pconnector and one 4P connector, the white side still has got the original plug so there is no problem.

At the servo side ( black connector) the plug is gone and wires are cut to make connections with the donor CDI.

I have the following 5 wires to reconnect to the black connector( all going to the servo, one 2 P connector and one 4 P connector)

white

white/black

those 2 should go in the 2 p connector

red/white

green/blue

light green

these 3 should go in the 4 p connector leaving one postion unused

I will need the right order starting from the top left of the black connector.

A close up picture would be great too.

Really hoping that another NSR fan could help me out.

Thanks in advance :jap: and keep those NSR's rollin'.

Posted (edited)

065ff.jpg

I hate messing with those dam_n servos 1mm and its off. I'd tell ya to line up the 'H' marks on the motor and rc valve pulley also, but you cant do it by the book. A lot of trial and error involved with old motors, stretched out cables, and worn RC valves, and dying mosfets inside the control box. If it stutters,keep messing with it till you get it right by adjusting the rc valve pulley... it'll take you all day, carry a wrench with you and make adjustments on the fly.

Make sure your battery is good before adjusting it, or else your going to be in a world of hurt and want to rip your hair out. Lights should be bright when you turn the key on and bike is not running.

Bike should have two powerbands, first will kick in around 6.5k next one will hit around 10k, if you couldn't get past 10k, more than likely the valve is not open enough.

Edited by KRS1
Posted

Thanks KRS1, you have the same workshop manual as me :rolleyes: , but even with that manual, i'm still unsure in which order the wires should be reconnected,since the plug is gone, i'm afraid when i connect something wrong, it won't be good for the new CDI.

Mayby the picture explains my question better.

post-143096-0-14150100-1324136907_thumb.

Posted

Why not go to Honda and get a new plug? If your in BKK it should only take a couple of days to order if its not in stock.

If i still had my bike i'd take a pic for you.

Posted

Why not go to Honda and get a new plug? If your in BKK it should only take a couple of days to order if its not in stock.

If i still had my bike i'd take a pic for you.

At the local Honda dealer they tolded me that i should order a new main wire harness ( 2500 thb) there not selling the plug seperatly, apart from the missing plug there nothing wrong with it.

I'm now desperatly searching to spot an SP around here and force the owner to open his pillion seat for me :D

Here up in the country, there aren't many left, apart from some RR's.

Posted

You know the bike will still run without the plug inserted right? Just no valve action.

From the factory the cdi is mounted with the plugs facing down, so they'd have to take off the side panel...sorry to rain on your parade.:(

Posted

That should do the trick thanks a lot!!!! :jap: still a bit unsure about which position is unused 3 or 5?

Now the bike is slowly coming back together and i can't wait to fire it up again.

The engine is as good as new ( crankshaft bearings/connectingrod/piston/cylinder/rc valves/ and many many small parts) and to top it off a Tyga performance exhaust system is waiting to be installed.

I really love this little bike, it's one off the few Thai build collectors bikes, with great looks and performance and... it's a 2 stroke... I love 2 stroke bikes!!!!

Posted (edited)

Does the 150 have the same 3-D ignition mapping as the 250? Maybe the lack of revs is the timing not the R/C valve, the jetting ( as a tin-shack mech.has already screwed with it) or more likely a clogged catastrophic converter.

Is it that the factory single ECU is not available. If the bike is in good condition and wouldn't run correctly before, isn't a 2500 baht harness and whatever the cost of a new ECU worth the money? Why screw around? If you can afford 10,000 or whatever baht for a TYGA exhaust...?

My 150R opened the valve at between 7500 and 8000. From memory it revved to 12-ish.

Edited by VocalNeal
Posted (edited)

That should do the trick thanks a lot!!!! :jap: still a bit unsure about which position is unused 3 or 5?

Now the bike is slowly coming back together and i can't wait to fire it up again.

The engine is as good as new ( crankshaft bearings/connectingrod/piston/cylinder/rc valves/ and many many small parts) and to top it off a Tyga performance exhaust system is waiting to be installed.

I really love this little bike, it's one off the few Thai build collectors bikes, with great looks and performance and... it's a 2 stroke... I love 2 stroke bikes!!!!

lol...Russian Roulette with the last wire.....good luck !

There's also a limiting circuit, most bikes of this age already have the wire cut down by the alternator where all the wires are coming out. Check to see if there are any wires cut.

I'd also replace the pulser pickup at the alternator, its cheap like 100 baht and you'll have a better spark, a lot of times these are advanced by filing off the angle of the pickup head, a lot of people screw up on this.

The choke plug also likes to get stuck on these bikes now, you'll have to take out the choke plug at the carb, and sand/file/scrape the plug and plug hole, to get all the hardened grime off. What happens is when you pull the choke cable up, it won't go back down all the way if the hole is dirty.

These two things will also prevent the bike form surpassing 10k rpm.

Edited by KRS1
Posted

Does the 150 have the same 3-D ignition mapping as the 250? Maybe the lack of revs is the timing not the R/C valve, the jetting ( as a tin-shack mech.has already screwed with it) or more likely a clogged catastrophic converter.

Is it that the factory single ECU is not available. If the bike is in good condition and wouldn't run correctly before, isn't a 2500 baht harness and whatever the cost of a new ECU worth the money? Why screw around? If you can afford 10,000 or whatever baht for a TYGA exhaust...?

My 150R opened the valve at between 7500 and 8000. From memory it revved to 12-ish.

it's not that i don't want to buy a new wire harness, but i like to repair things if possible and a missing plug is something what can be fixed easy ( as long as i know the right order :rolleyes: ) A new OEM cdi is already waiting to be installed

That should do the trick thanks a lot!!!! :jap: still a bit unsure about which position is unused 3 or 5?

Now the bike is slowly coming back together and i can't wait to fire it up again.

The engine is as good as new ( crankshaft bearings/connectingrod/piston/cylinder/rc valves/ and many many small parts) and to top it off a Tyga performance exhaust system is waiting to be installed.

I really love this little bike, it's one off the few Thai build collectors bikes, with great looks and performance and... it's a 2 stroke... I love 2 stroke bikes!!!!

lol...Russian Roulette with the last wire.....good luck !

There's also a limiting circuit, most bikes of this age already have the wire cut down by the alternator where all the wires are coming out. Check to see if there are any wires cut.

I'd also replace the pulser pickup at the alternator, its cheap like 100 baht and you'll have a better spark, a lot of times these are advanced by filing off the angle of the pickup head, a lot of people screw up on this.

The choke plug also likes to get stuck on these bikes now, you'll have to take out the choke plug at the carb, and sand/file/scrape the plug and plug hole, to get all the hardened grime off. What happens is when you pull the choke cable up, it won't go back down all the way if the hole is dirty.

These two things will also prevent the bike form surpassing 10k rpm.

Yep, one wire coming from the altenator is cut.

Thanks for the other tips, everything, so also the carb is cleaned well and will be fitted with new o rings and a choke cable.

Hi db, do you mind sharing who did your engine rebuild and how much?

I like to do most of my repairs/maintenance myself but for this case i didn't have the right tools ( bearingremover) and knowledge ( never did a complete overhaul) so i choose to go for the local Honda dealer (Nang Rong, Buriram province) The mechanic ( who drives an NSR RR) who did the job knows what he is doing (or he can pretent it very well :ermm: ) I took the engine

out of the frame and dismantled it mostly, brought it to the dealer and together with the partsmanual and the mechanic we decided the work what had to be done.

The fact that the workshop has all the special honda tools/ a special workbench for engines gave me a good feeling,also they gave the right advice how to restart the engine ( bleeding the air from the new oilpump)

I had to asure them that when i'm ready with the rebuild i come by and show the bike,so they can check it runs well even they give a sort of gurantee on the work.

The costs...... well i have to tell that i'm not intent to sell this bike anymore and wanted to do the things right.

The engine rebuild costed me 26K ( new crankshaftbearings/connectingrod,piston ,cylinder( 9K) cylinderhead, oilpump, clutch and many small parts.i tolded the mechnic not to cut costs on small parts.

As i wrote before i'm now slowly putting everything back together and i also will be fitting a new radiator,CDI all cables,many small parts and the mentioned Tyga exhaust .

All together i'm looking at almost 40K sounds like a lot of money, ( and it is) but for me it's worth it ( all hobbies costs money)

Driving that litlle bike always brings a big smile on my face.

Posted

All together i'm looking at almost 40K sounds like a lot of money, ( and it is) but for me it's worth it ( all hobbies costs money)

laugh.png I' have been accused of having a 110,000 baht bike worth 45,000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...