mania Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 ^ It's the low slung exhaust that ruins the look. Makes a nice looking bike hideous. Looking at the two is seems the exact same exhaust header. Same attachment points & just a different end can Maybe the shorter wheels is giving the impression of the exhaust being lower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjj Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 It's the end can, needs to be up under the arse. I know lower is better for cg but high up looks cool. Anyone have any idea how much those wheels would be? They are Marchesini (sp ?), which is high end I believe. Or maybe that is just a slicker like all the Brembo brakes I see on cars. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 ^ It's the low slung exhaust that ruins the look. Makes a nice looking bike hideous. Looking at the two is seems the exact same exhaust header. Same attachment points & just a different end can Maybe the shorter wheels is giving the impression of the exhaust being lower? Its completely different both them pictures are The same after Market full exhaust system on standard bike and modef super moto style. You can buy the exhaust from k- speed 6900 bht completely useless if you do any off roading though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poosmate Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Any news on aftermarket exhaust and sprocket ? Where to buy and best for off road please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Still looking around the Internet I can see no difference between the hubs and the sprocket fixings on any of these crf bikes the above post only states one has smooth finish the other rough all fixing holes and Allen nuts and bolts look the same . Still not 100% convinced that it's different sprockets between the bikes. This is crf 250 r hub looks identical to my 250l hub. Sprocket and hub info here: http://rickramsey.ne...ods.htm#gearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Still looking around the Internet I can see no difference between the hubs and the sprocket fixings on any of these crf bikes the above post only states one has smooth finish the other rough all fixing holes and Allen nuts and bolts look the same . Still not 100% convinced that it's different sprockets between the bikes. This is crf 250 r hub looks identical to my 250l hub. Sprocket and hub info here: http://rickramsey.ne...ods.htm#gearing yep saw this info a few days ago on adv some good info and your definately right about getting the sprocket bolts undone mine will not budge rounded of 2 bolts already need to go shopping for some super allen bolt spanner/key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Just as a side note ramz noticed you opted to cut of the raised bits from your throttle control and light switches instead of drilling the handle bars wouldn't really advise that especially on the throttle control could cause a nasty accident if the whole throttle unit spins round out of position,did you do anything to compensate for this or just relying on tight fit from nuts and bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) I've only owned two motorcycles in 47 years of riding/owning that had locating holes in the handlebars and I've never had a control or switch spin on the bars except when the handlebars/controls finally hit the ground. With barkbusters, that problem has not occurred at all. The problem with locating holes is that you're riding with controls and switches set according to some designer/engineer and not according to the ergonomic needs of your own body. I know better than anyone else where the controls/switches have to be located on my motorcycles. Edited September 4, 2012 by ramz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Fair enough comment,personally for me I like to be 100% sure that whenever I whack the throttle open and no matter how heavy handed I am with it it will never move or slip around From your experience and other bikes youve owned you are happy in your method but another option for others is simply drill the holes in whatever position you are comfortable with the switches in. Have you tried getting rid of the helmet lock yet seems to be some star shaped key that fits it seems you can't take of the black plastics under the seat until you remove this lock ,looking to remove lock and plastic parts so can get to rear frame and then grind of completely the bracket that holds the lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) The trouble with drilling your nice new bars is that you immedialtely make a weak spot for them to snap off at. Kind of defeats the purpose of fitting high strength bars... All I did was take out the dowels in the switch gear, put a bit of black tape around the bars and re fit them. They are tight. Even if the throttle turned on the bars because you hit the throttle stop, how would that become dangerous? BTW, they are difficult to remove. I started to grind them off with a dremel and in the end they got hot enough for the plastic to start to melt and they came out. As for the clutch and brake controls I actuall advise you loosen the slightly from factory just to the point that you can move them by hitting them with your hand. That way if you drop it they will move and hopefully not snap off your levers in the process. Then you give them a couple of hits and you can keep riding. Edited September 4, 2012 by Bung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Taninthai, sounds like the bolt is what is called a Torx bolt. You can buy a set of them at any decent tool store. They would have used them to make it harder for some one to steal you're helmet lock and all as they are not so common as allen bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) The trouble with drilling your nice new bars is that you immedialtely make a weak spot for them to snap off at. Kind of defeats the purpose of fitting high strength bars... All I did was take out the dowels in the switch gear, put a bit of black tape around the bars and re fit them. They are tight. Even if the throttle turned on the bars because you hit the throttle stop, how would that become dangerous? Many ways it can be dangerous if the whole throttle moves your instant reaction is going to be to move it back in opposite direction you could be braking hard and the complete unit rotate forward you instant reaction Is going to be to twist it backwards that would then make you accelerate which is not an ideal solution if you are trying to brake hard to avoid something,same you could do a jump and the whole thing has the potential to come lose I would imagine if you whacked it open and the whole thing moved it is completely going to unbalance you and and throw alot of weight onto the right side of bike and would end up in a swerve to the right Side of the road with potential to hit oncoming vehicles. Just loosen yours of and see if you can still ride the bike I'd say it's not possible so when it comes loose at speed there is your danger Edited September 4, 2012 by taninthai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Taninthai, sounds like the bolt is what is called a Torx bolt. You can buy a set of them at any decent tool store. They would have used them to make it harder for some one to steal you're helmet lock and all as they are not so common as allen bolts. Yeah I'm going out today to see what I can find ,might see if the Honda dealer has the tool if not it's gonna be drilled out....,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramz Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 The bolts on the helmet lock are not torx bolts. They are allen bolts with sloping edges on the unscrew edges - the allen key will slide out of the socket if you try to remove the bolts. The Service Manual says to drill the bolts out if you want to remove the helmet lock. I just cut the mounting tab off of the frame with a dremel cut-off wheel. Be careful, I gouged the plastic when I wasn't paying attention to the back part of the wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) ^ thanks what a strange move by Honda as mentioned you cannot remove the black plastic undertray until you remove this helmet lock so looks like the drill is coming out to play Update Just had little look at mine and started hitting the side of bolt head with hammer and driver loosened it up and then used pliers to unscrew all the way out ,next move remove black undertray and take bike up shop to get bracket grinded off Edited September 4, 2012 by taninthai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) The trouble with drilling your nice new bars is that you immedialtely make a weak spot for them to snap off at. Kind of defeats the purpose of fitting high strength bars... All I did was take out the dowels in the switch gear, put a bit of black tape around the bars and re fit them. They are tight. Even if the throttle turned on the bars because you hit the throttle stop, how would that become dangerous? Many ways it can be dangerous if the whole throttle moves your instant reaction is going to be to move it back in opposite direction you could be braking hard and the complete unit rotate forward you instant reaction Is going to be to twist it backwards that would then make you accelerate which is not an ideal solution if you are trying to brake hard to avoid something,same you could do a jump and the whole thing has the potential to come lose I would imagine if you whacked it open and the whole thing moved it is completely going to unbalance you and and throw alot of weight onto the right side of bike and would end up in a swerve to the right Side of the road with potential to hit oncoming vehicles. Just loosen yours of and see if you can still ride the bike I'd say it's not possible so when it comes loose at speed there is your danger Sorry, I don't quite get those scenarios. It's not like it will come loose completely, the bolts hold it tight. If you try you can twist the unit around but it aint coming lose especially if you put some tape under them. Either way, it's up to you, I prefer to keep the bars strength intact. Your gonna look like a <deleted> with you bike in the back of a sang toew after a fall with one side of the bars snapped off. I'd rather ride home thanks. Google it you will see everyone says not to drill your bars. Edited September 4, 2012 by Bung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 ^ obviously every one is different and it comes down to personal choice for me as said I like to be 100% that the throttle can't spin round it also seems a bit of hassle removing the bits of the switch gear and Id rather have bent handle bars than have a crash because the throttle unit came loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYKTHEMIN Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Any one know where I can get an english operators manual? for my new toy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjj Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I went to a Honda shop today and a guy in there (the owner, I think) had a CRF and he had put some cbr 150 wheels and tyres, with a new front brake calliper and disc, to make it into a motard. To do the conversion costs just under 30,000 baht. Do you think that is expensive? Are the tyres wide enough? Looked nice and I'm very tempted, just would be gutted if in a few months Honda release a motard version that is the same price as the standard CRF. Plus I really want a yellow one and with the Zoomer x coming out in yellow, I'm hoping Honda think the same as me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Sounds expensive to me you can buy a whole new cbr 150 for what 72,000 you can't tell me the wheels and tyres cost half the price off the bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyF Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Sounds expensive to me you can buy a whole new cbr 150 for what 72,000 you can't tell me the wheels and tyres cost half the price off the bike Yep, I'd guess around 12000 for parts and 1000 baht for labour. 30000 sounds OTT to me. If my guess is about right though then I'd do it. You've still got the original wheels and tyres, calipers etc to switch back if you want to go off roading, and spraying the plastics a colour of your choice would be pretty cheap as well, although I think the stock colours look pretty good myself so I'd wait until the stock plastics got beat up and then sand them down and respray them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 (edited) Yeah i would guesstimate around 15,000 bht to do the wheels With regard to painting the plastics on a dirtbike is that feasible/recommended i would have thought the paint would soon start to crack split or splinter with the smallest drop and bend in the plastic i thought stickers were the way to go or possibly vynal wrap Have know removed tool box,helmet lock, long bolts and have a new rear light with built in turn signals just need exhaust now rang dirtshop yesterday they have nothing in yet Sent from my GT-P7500 using Thaivisa Connect App Edited September 8, 2012 by taninthai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyF Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Yeah i would guesstimate around 15,000 bht to do the wheels With regard to painting the plastics on a dirtbike is that feasible/recommended i would have thought the paint would soon start to crack split or splinter with the smallest drop and bend in the plastic i thought stickers were the way to go or possibly vynal wrap Have know removed tool box,helmet lock, long bolts and have a new rear light with built in turn signals just need exhaust now rang dirtshop yesterday they have nothing in yet Sent from my GT-P7500 using Thaivisa Connect App Looks good, I like the changes you've made to the bike - similar to what I'd do if I bought one. I sprayed the front fender on a CR250 a few years ago. It wasn't perfect, but held up pretty good and that was motocross, not trails. For a Motard, it shouldn't take much more punishment than a road bike, after all it's being converted for the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjj Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Sounds expensive to me you can buy a whole new cbr 150 for what 72,000 you can't tell me the wheels and tyres cost half the price off the bike True, very true. Farang prices?? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Could someone recommend a shop where I could buy aluminum 7/8 handlebars, Honda CR-hi bend ? I've used Fly handlebars before. Reasonable price and tough. BKK or Pattaya would be idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taninthai Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) ^ dirtshop in onnut Bangkok have website aswell just google dirtshop bangkok Ordered my renthal bars from there delivered down south in 2 days just over 2000 bht Edited September 12, 2012 by taninthai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 ^ dirtshop in onnut Bangkok have website aswell just google dirtshop bangkok Ordered my renthal bars from there delivered down south in 2 days just over 2000 bht Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnyF Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Good review of the CRF over at Cyclenews. http://www.cyclenews.com/articles/new-bikes/2012/09/13/first-ride-2013-honda-crf250l-dual-sport-1/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmajor Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 My apologies if this has alrady been discussed.... Have any of the taller / heavier owners having any issues with the suspension and seat height? I am 6' 3" (190cm) and 95Kg (210 lbs) and love the look of the Honda. If weight is an issue, would basic modifications solve this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mania Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Yesterday I pointed out a new one of these to my wife & mentioned it would be a nice ride here. She said,, but at the stop lights do we need to get off to hold it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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