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Posted

Guys

I've been using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on my Pearl White vehicle for a while now. I also use clay when necessary. Now initially after polishing, the paintwork feels silky smooth, but after a couple of washes ... only using water ... never any car wash liquid, it doesn't feel the same.

Due to the price of car polishes ( and leather cleaners/protectors) here I usually get a friend to bring me some when they come over from the UK and one friend is coming soon.

Now I do realise that waxes are probably better on non- deep gloss surfaces whereas paint sealants are probably better on deep gloss finishes so I may try that way next time.

So can anyone recommend anything that actually works here, or can give any positive experiences.... thanks

Posted

Make sure the paintwork is completely devoid of any other waxes or sealants before beginning. Claying will help here, but a good paint cleaner/conditioner should also be used to make the surface *literally* squeaky clean first.

If not applying it using a machine, be very careful to only apply the thinnest and most even layer possible. Too thick and it'll streak and/ or never cure properly. Leave it to cure in a cool & dry place for at least 12 hours or more before removing, and when removing (by hand only), use the thickest/softest microfiber you can find, using minimal pressure, and slow moving strokes. Try to keep it out of rain (even when parked) for the next 2-3 days after to insure a full cure.

Of course it all depends on the environment the car gets driven/parked in - but that alone should make the application last for at least 3 months in the dry, and maybe up to 6 weeks in the wet season.

Topping the sealant with a sacrificial wax layer every 4-6 weeks, and applying a spray-on wax conditioner after each wash will extend the total protection out to around 6 months in TH, so long as you don't get caught up in too much rainfall while driving - a few hours driving in the rain here will strip practically anything off the surface..

After then, no matter what condition the protective layer is still in, it's time to start all over again as the diesel soot and other fallout in Thailand will have already started graying the finish anyway.. sad.png

If you can stomach the cost, try the Wolfgang Fuzion - another poster here swears by it: http://www.thaivisa....w-favorite-wax/

Edit: Note, all of the above is specific to the Wolfgang sealant.... I used it for about 18 months on my cars here, but have now switched to the Gtechniq lacquer/sealant combo as the base layer on my rides..

Posted

Get it to the detailing place once in a while. Let them handle it.

Is that where you take your Fortuna ... You must have been really bored to start a thread like that....really bored or something else.

Posted

Yikes!

Yawn...5555..oh dear.....dam_n ....are you supposed wash and wax vehicles after the first two weeks of ownership ..

I leave it to the monsoons.

Just got my old truck back from being de-dented and fully re duco'd.....actually washed it and also found 16bt, a toothbrush,three cigarette lighters and 3/16 wrench when I vacuumed ......then it rained... now it's dirty and splashed with mud and doggy pee streaks up the doors... Better go back to the farming thread methinks..cheesy.gif

  • Like 1
Posted

I would go through all this trouble if I owned a 1955 Red Corvette. But come on... Just take it to the detailing place once every few months if you're that worried about it and go have Shabushi. By the time you're done eating it'll be finished.

Posted

Make sure the paintwork is completely devoid of any other waxes or sealants before beginning. Claying will help here, but a good paint cleaner/conditioner should also be used to make the surface *literally* squeaky clean first.

If not applying it using a machine, be very careful to only apply the thinnest and most even layer possible. Too thick and it'll streak and/ or never cure properly. Leave it to cure in a cool & dry place for at least 12 hours or more before removing, and when removing (by hand only), use the thickest/softest microfiber you can find, using minimal pressure, and slow moving strokes. Try to keep it out of rain (even when parked) for the next 2-3 days after to insure a full cure.

Of course it all depends on the environment the car gets driven/parked in - but that alone should make the application last for at least 3 months in the dry, and maybe up to 6 weeks in the wet season.

Topping the sealant with a sacrificial wax layer every 4-6 weeks, and applying a spray-on wax conditioner after each wash will extend the total protection out to around 6 months in TH, so long as you don't get caught up in too much rainfall while driving - a few hours driving in the rain here will strip practically anything off the surface..

After then, no matter what condition the protective layer is still in, it's time to start all over again as the diesel soot and other fallout in Thailand will have already started graying the finish anyway.. sad.png

If you can stomach the cost, try the Wolfgang Fuzion - another poster here swears by it: http://www.thaivisa....w-favorite-wax/

Edit: Note, all of the above is specific to the Wolfgang sealant.... I used it for about 18 months on my cars here, but have now switched to the Gtechniq lacquer/sealant combo as the base layer on my rides..

Thanks ... Fusion is just too expensive to justify. Mer is OK in the UK but I'm not sure about it here. The car shop did a good job when I took it there, looked nice but didn't last any longer than my efforts. I must admit that the car shop do do a good job on the interior. I treat the so called leather seats quite often in the hope of keeping them reasonable ... the sunsine is quite brutal here and even thought I have high quality window film it still gets hot inside.

I've watched the Wolfgang video, they leave it for 30 mins and then polish off, no where in Thailand can you leave it much longer as it will be covered in fine dust.

I think I'm going to go with Autoglym ... their paint sealent and then their high definition wax on top. What I'm using now is OK, bird droppings and tree sap come off reasonably easy. My Wolfgang is just about empty anyway so I need to get something and hopefully it will last a bit longer.

Posted

" What Car Polish Are You Using ? "

Metalic T-cut from the UK when required to some areas and the cheapest polish from Big 'C'. biggrin.png

Posted

When I did my own I liked Mother's California Gold.

That said, parking out of the weather helps more than anything.

Best thing is to have is a small pressure washer and a deionizing filter, spot-free rinse in a minute ore two.

Posted

" What Car Polish Are You Using ? "

Metalic T-cut from the UK when required to some areas and the cheapest polish from Big 'C'. biggrin.png

From my initial post .... Guys

I've been using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on my Pearl White vehicle for a while now...............................

Posted

" What Car Polish Are You Using ? "

Metalic T-cut from the UK when required to some areas and the cheapest polish from Big 'C'. biggrin.png

From my initial post .... Guys

I've been using Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on my Pearl White vehicle for a while now...............................

so you're saying the paint isn't as 'smooth' after a few washes? that's inevitable, in my experience, contaminants start to bond immediately - you only get that glass-like smoothness right after you clay bar. For the best clay bars I've ever tried, you should ask your friend from the UK to bring over some Bilt-Hamber - they are so good you only need use water as a lubricant. Their Cleanser-polish is a good product also, but I've never tried Wolfgang sealant so don't know how it compares. You can order to Thailand from Bilt-Hambers's UK website but asking your friend to bring some over would save shipping.

Posted

Make sure the paintwork is completely devoid of any other waxes or sealants before beginning. Claying will help here, but a good paint cleaner/conditioner should also be used to make the surface *literally* squeaky clean first.

If not applying it using a machine, be very careful to only apply the thinnest and most even layer possible. Too thick and it'll streak and/ or never cure properly. Leave it to cure in a cool & dry place for at least 12 hours or more before removing, and when removing (by hand only), use the thickest/softest microfiber you can find, using minimal pressure, and slow moving strokes. Try to keep it out of rain (even when parked) for the next 2-3 days after to insure a full cure.

Of course it all depends on the environment the car gets driven/parked in - but that alone should make the application last for at least 3 months in the dry, and maybe up to 6 weeks in the wet season.

Topping the sealant with a sacrificial wax layer every 4-6 weeks, and applying a spray-on wax conditioner after each wash will extend the total protection out to around 6 months in TH, so long as you don't get caught up in too much rainfall while driving - a few hours driving in the rain here will strip practically anything off the surface..

After then, no matter what condition the protective layer is still in, it's time to start all over again as the diesel soot and other fallout in Thailand will have already started graying the finish anyway.. sad.png

If you can stomach the cost, try the Wolfgang Fuzion - another poster here swears by it: http://www.thaivisa....w-favorite-wax/

Edit: Note, all of the above is specific to the Wolfgang sealant.... I used it for about 18 months on my cars here, but have now switched to the Gtechniq lacquer/sealant combo as the base layer on my rides..

Thanks ... Fusion is just too expensive to justify. Mer is OK in the UK but I'm not sure about it here. The car shop did a good job when I took it there, looked nice but didn't last any longer than my efforts. I must admit that the car shop do do a good job on the interior. I treat the so called leather seats quite often in the hope of keeping them reasonable ... the sunsine is quite brutal here and even thought I have high quality window film it still gets hot inside.

I've watched the Wolfgang video, they leave it for 30 mins and then polish off, no where in Thailand can you leave it much longer as it will be covered in fine dust.

I think I'm going to go with Autoglym ... their paint sealent and then their high definition wax on top. What I'm using now is OK, bird droppings and tree sap come off reasonably easy. My Wolfgang is just about empty anyway so I need to get something and hopefully it will last a bit longer.

Haven't used the Autoglym before, so no idea what it'll last like in Thailand's unique conditions.. But can tell you how I'm getting 6 months before each full strip-back:

Initial prep work (every 6 months):

1. Clay bar (used with body solvent to remove tar, otherwise with Meg's last-touch)

2. Chemical cleaner (depending on correction work needed I will use either Wolgang conditioner (for very light work), Meg's old Crystal series paint cleaner (if swirling minor), or Meg's PRC if there's more serious swirling or I want to take off some orange peel).

3. Meg's hyper wash.

4. Cutting compound as required (for scratches/etchings)

5. Gtechniq lacquer (substitute with your favorite polymer sealant or acrylic 'glass').

6. Pinnacle Souveran (substitute with any decent pure carnauba)

7. Meg's Last-touch spray (substitute with Wolfgang spritz, or something from the Meg's retail range)

8. Meg's Plastic polish on all light lenses.

Weekly:

1. Meg's hyper wash

2. Meg's Last-touch

Monthly:

1. Chemical cleaner in door jambs, hood/trunk seams and around pai tabien (to remove diesel stains) + new layer of carnauba over those cleaned areas.

And as req'd (every 2-6 weeks in rain, up to 3 months in the dry):

1. Pinnacle Souveran carnauba topped again with last-touch

This regime keeps the surface glassy-smooth and slick year round, and looks great on all colors (even white). After 6 months, lighter colors will start showing signs of diesel staining though, and darker colors start losing their depth, so time to start all over again.

Over the years I have tried a whole bunch of different brands/products - in fact I rarely order the same thing twice, hehe smile.png The only difference I've observed in different brands is small changes in longevity (e.g. Fuzion outlasts Souveran, which lasts about the same Dodo Juice, Meg's Yellow, etc).

All of this is done in a closed, dust-free 3 car garage, so no dust issues wink.png

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