So, I have decided to go racing this year, so the first thing is to see what is needed.

There are two basic things to start with.

1: License

2: Car requirements over a standard vehicle (this depends on the series you enter, but we will discuss this as we go)

For the License the RAAT (Royal Automobile Association of Thailand) require that you obtain a medical from a hospital, Bangkok Pattaya have all the forms, they are also attached to this post and they do the medical for 1,000 baht).

The next step is to Decide the category in which you want to race, in my case it is class C, the application fee is 1,000 baht and the RAAT form is also attached, also below are the RAAT requirements.

Driving permit requirements, the document must be submitted. Raat

for consideration is the driving permit.

1. A medical certificate from the Association to inspect the body. (Attached)

2. Fill out an application form. (Attached)

3. Photo 1 inch square, quantity 2.

4. Identification card, birth certificate or passport.

5. Copy

6. Copies of driver's licenses issued by the Department of Transport.

7. Copy raced in older leaves (if available).

8. Paid fees The grade level of a driver

9. *** Competitors who have not made a license must be trained before. ***

And submitted to the

Department of motor sports Raat

Phone 0-2939-5770-3

Fax 0-2511-2230

In the next post we will discuss the vehicle requirements.

Thanks to the following for their support and help in obtaining this information:

Dr Iain Corness - Bangkok Pattaya Hospital - Acorn BBX Escort team driver

Thomas Raldorf - CEA Construction Race Team Manager/driver

Form_raayngaankaartrwcchraangkaay.pdf

L-competition_RVS.pdf

So, The cheapest part has now been covered, now on to the Car.

In my case I have a BMW 1989 E30 with a Nissan SR20 1990cc motor and 5 speed gear box, 205/45/15 wheels on 1 inch spacers.

What does it need to go on the track?

It depends on the series as mentioned above, I have chosen two series to enter this year
1: Nitto 3K
2: Pro Series

Both require:
1: A racing Bucket seat, this can be adjustable and seats are available from Sparco, Bride and others readily in Thailand.

2: A Roll cage, both series require a 6 point cage

3: 4 Point Harness (Although I will use a 5 point harness to prevent sliding out from under the harness)

5:The Pro Series requires working Indicators (turn signals) and lights.

That pretty much covers it, although it is good to have an oil catch tank as well to prevent spills on the track. The tank is connected to the crank case breather and then vented to the Air cleaner and catches any oil the engine may vent out the breather.

The Car is pretty much standard apart from the Nissan motor and still has disc/drum rear, but we will get the driver out performing the car before doing too many modifications.

Next we will cover at the Track and entry to series.

I do not have the entry information yet for each series, but will post it once available.

The costs per day can vary per series, on average it is 3,000 baht per race day, and an extra 500 baht to practise on the Friday prior to races.

Fuel? as an example a car of 800kg and 240hp consumes over 6,000 baht of racing fuel per weekend, so without tyres you are up for nearly 13,000 baht for a weekend.

Having sponsors help in covering costs and also provides them with a way to showcase their brand and have a day where they can invite clients along to an event where they are a sponsor.

EBC brakes have kindly provided a set of brake pads for the car so far, just about every car in the Nitto series selects EBC to use, a different set will be needed once the car gets a brake upgrade to Disc/Disc, BMW E36 discs will be fitted front and rear and a 7 series master cylinder, the 7 series was chosen as the lines are 10mm, the M series E36 uses 12mm and would require different couplings.

The brake conversion is fairly simple:

For the front, a wheel bearing change is done and E36 rotors fitted, adapter plates fitted to position the E36 calipers correctly for the new discs are also fitted.

The Rear gets new swing arms from an E36 complete, making a fairly easy conversion, this also changes the car to 5 stud wheels as opposed to the standard 4 stud. The Handbrake is the only difficult part as we are going from drum to disc.

is there a "rent a racer" series ?

what is the cost of race fuel compared to regular pump fuel, and what octane ?

Is there a high speed driving school where you drive old bangers and learn how to do hand brake turns , evasive driving and "fast and furious" type driving stuff but slower !

Great thread!

I've been thinking about this for a while, and with an E30 too!

Will you drive the car to the track or use a car trailer?

I am thinking taking my VW and souping it up with new tires and a paint job. can I racec it like on the weekends?

Anyone serious about competition, and although it maybe more expensive, there is a thriving Kart series in Thailand.

I would advice against the drive to the track and race your road car idea. Firstly there is no guarantee you will be able to drive home and if you use the car to commute? If you live near lake maprachan maybe OK.

I am thinking taking my VW and souping it up with new tires and a paint job. can I racec it like on the weekends?

You wouldn't be the first, this car is very competitive too.

is there a "rent a racer" series ?

what is the cost of race fuel compared to regular pump fuel, and what octane ?

Is there a high speed driving school where you drive old bangers and learn how to do hand brake turns , evasive driving and "fast and furious" type driving stuff but slower !

Singha do have a racing school http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/541339-singha-race-school and https://www.facebook.com/singha.racing.school

I will just be using Shell V Power to start with.

Great thread!

I've been thinking about this for a while, and with an E30 too!

Will you drive the car to the track or use a car trailer?

It will be driven to the track as it is road registered, there are plenty of slide on truck services available for a lift home should something go wrong.

Stick to go-karts, best bank for your buck. Fun for the whole family.

I am a retired racing driver, instructing at driving schools. Managing racing teams.

If need serious help in racing I will bee able to assist.

website: reinewisell.com

what is the cost of race fuel compared to regular pump fuel, and what octane ?

Racing fuel is about 100 baht. Per litre

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Are you serious? You're going to compete using a beaten up beamer with a roll cage and seats, that's all? I don't mean to offend you but it sounds like you just want to have some fun on racing track as without any serious prep your car won't take you anywhere near podium. What about tires, suspension, brakes? What final drive ratio will you use? what about other gears? These are just a few questions you'd have to ask yourself when you plan to enter.

Are you serious? You're going to compete using a beaten up beamer with a roll cage and seats, that's all? I don't mean to offend you but it sounds like you just want to have some fun on racing track as without any serious prep your car won't take you anywhere near podium. What about tires, suspension, brakes? What final drive ratio will you use? what about other gears? These are just a few questions you'd have to ask yourself when you plan to enter.

Having the best prepped car doesn't mean a crap if you can't drive

I think the OP is doing it the right way - get out there in something that's cheap, and that doesn't hold up the pack too much, hone your skills and see where it leads to... if he can have some decent drives in a less than competitive car, go after some sponsorship and let them pay to make the car more competitive.

Are you serious? You're going to compete using a beaten up beamer with a roll cage and seats, that's all? I don't mean to offend you but it sounds like you just want to have some fun on racing track as without any serious prep your car won't take you anywhere near podium. What about tires, suspension, brakes? What final drive ratio will you use? what about other gears? These are just a few questions you'd have to ask yourself when you plan to enter.

Motor - Plenty of power to get around Bira and be at least serious

Suspension has just been upgraded

Final drive already suits the track

Brakes - Mentioned previously about pending upgrade

Power - Swapping motor to a BMW M70 shortly once brake upgrade done

Tyres - 205/45/15's were used by Dr Iain Corness for two years and he won several trophies, It is possible I can be 4th or 5th in every race and still take the series 1st place for reliability, I am not looking to place however, but looking to do this and do it to enjoy it.

There are at least 6 other E30's in the mix already, one with an S50 motor, another with a M60 4 litre and a couple of SR20 Turbos.

if he can have some decent drives in a less than competitive car, go after some sponsorship and let them pay to make the car more competitive.

Lol after 15 years in pro motorsports I wish it was as simple as that

if he can have some decent drives in a less than competitive car, go after some sponsorship and let them pay to make the car more competitive.

Lol after 15 years in pro motorsports I wish it was as simple as that

Why come on here and bag someone he is at least doing something.

If you read it carefully you see that I didn't try to bag anyone. So take your meaningless comments somewhere else.

if he can have some decent drives in a less than competitive car, go after some sponsorship and let them pay to make the car more competitive.

Lol after 15 years in pro motorsports I wish it was as simple as that

My company has previously sponsored Aussie V8 Supercars to the tune of a million dollars a season. But yes, not everyone gets sponsorship money.

My company has previously sponsored Aussie V8 Supercars to the tune of a million dollars a season. But yes, not everyone gets sponsorship money.

National series attract much more publicity hence sponsors are easier to get (not easy, just easier). But on club level, which OP is going for as I presume, it's very hard. Motorsports is an incurable addiction and very expensive one

My company has previously sponsored Aussie V8 Supercars to the tune of a million dollars a season. But yes, not everyone gets sponsorship money.

National series attract much more publicity hence sponsors are easier to get (not easy, just easier). But on club level, which OP is going for as I presume, it's very hard. Motorsports is an incurable addiction and very expensive one

It's all just economics. Our brand saw a synergy with the V8 supercars demographic, and spent an appropriate portion of our marketing budget on it for a few seasons. Once we identified that there was not much more growth to be had in that demo, that money went elsewhere. If they came back to us tomorrow with an offer of the same brand exposure at 10% the price, I'm pretty sure we'd approve the expense though.

It all depends on the brand/product and the value the exposure can bring them. We've never sponsored at club level before (we're looking for more widespread exposure), but I can imagine there's plenty of oppty's to sell the benefits of club level motorsport to SME's if you have the right data on demo/coverage, the right package, and the right pitch.

I think a lot of the difference between club guys and the big national teams is just their ability pitch the ROI/benefits in a way that gets a deal

I hear there is a pro series pickup coming up for sale if you want to jump straight into something that is proven as a podium finisher in the right hands.

Nitto 3K is not just at Bira, it is also at Bonanza and Kangkhachan tracks.

The GPI Motorsports Pro series receives reasonable Television coverage as well.

Other requirements not listed yet are

1: Race Suit

2: Helmet

3: Gloves

4: Fire Extinguisher

Other requirements not listed yet are

1: Race Suit

2: Helmet

3: Gloves

4: Fire Extinguisher

Do not forget to buy FIA approved equipment, as some event are serious about those equipment?

There are also drag/drift available.

Hi ! I am bulding a toyota corolla dx for the nitto3k racing series and now is it time for the rollbar .what is minimum tube size for rollbars can not find anything on internet or should I just follow the FIA regulations. Where can I find a shop that can make the mainhoop and the A-pillars and screenbar by drawing, I'am living on samui and no shops here ,I will do the fitting and welding.I don't want to buy a tubebender for just to make this

Hi ! I am bulding a toyota corolla dx for the nitto3k racing series and now is it time for the rollbar .what is minimum tube size for rollbars can not find anything on internet or should I just follow the FIA regulations. Where can I find a shop that can make the mainhoop and the A-pillars and screenbar by drawing, I'am living on samui and no shops here ,I will do the fitting and welding.I don't want to buy a tubebender for just to make this

As it is pretty much entry level racing I would look to import a bolt in cage.

Hi ! I am bulding a toyota corolla dx for the nitto3k racing series and now is it time for the rollbar .what is minimum tube size for rollbars can not find anything on internet or should I just follow the FIA regulations. Where can I find a shop that can make the mainhoop and the A-pillars and screenbar by drawing, I'am living on samui and no shops here ,I will do the fitting and welding.I don't want to buy a tubebender for just to make this

Most series require a 6 point as a minimum, if you make it to NHRA spec then it's going to be pretty safe.

NHRA specs

A 6-inch square steel plate measuring 1/8-inch thick must be welded to the floor as a base for each bar that makes its point of contact inside the car. Bolted-in bars require a pair of 6-inch steel plates one underneath and one above, with four 3/8-inch bolts through the rocker sill to hold the two plates together.

Digging into materials, all tubing has to measure 1-3/4-inch outer diameter, with mild steel .118-inch thickness and chromoly .083-inch.

All roll bars/cages constructed of 4130 chromoly tubing must be welded using an approve TIG heliarc process, while mild steel must be done with an approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc process. Grinding and plating of the welds is prohibited, so keep these points in mind if youre a do-it-yourselfer.

The above is NHRA spec and way over the top but it gives you an idea of where to start with tube thicknesses etc.

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/chassis-safety/building-your-first-roll-cage-what-you-should-know/

Hi ! I am bulding a toyota corolla dx for the nitto3k racing series and now is it time for the rollbar .what is minimum tube size for rollbars can not find anything on internet or should I just follow the FIA regulations. Where can I find a shop that can make the mainhoop and the A-pillars and screenbar by drawing, I'am living on samui and no shops here ,I will do the fitting and welding.I don't want to buy a tubebender for just to make this

What engine are you using?

I have an AE86 4A-GE engine with gearbox for sale if you're interested.