Tyre Pressure

[Jessi]

Thanks guys,I have been out all day, mrs Jessi like shopping.

Nothing on the doors of the car or in the manual its all written in Thai, so I decided to settle for 26psi, they were 32psi, yes it seems a softer ride.

Lets see how it goes with 26psi, I can always adjust later if needed.

Thank you all once again.

[Jessi]

But in wet conditions more rubber is not optimum, more grip is and that is due to moving more water. Large tires like truck tires have worse grip then do car tires because they have too much rubber on the road (a larger foot print) and act like slicks.. The same applies to snow and ice when smaller tires are commonly used as it cuts through the wet and grips better instead of sliding, for obvious reasons water and hydroplaning is very much the same.. When we race in the rain we put on thinner tires with more tread to optimize water movement and so the tire cuts through the water instead of riding on top of it at speed..

When you over inflate the tire it gets wider, opens up the treads, but has a smaller foot print so in a sense makes the contact patch smaller and cuts through the water, plus it also heats up quicker and a hot tire grips better. Reference Davids post with the pictures and see how the over inflated tire crowns and opens up the treads and the contact patch is smaller. Understand I'm not suggesting over inflation, but rather perfect inflation, the problem is the word "over inflation" being bandied around without specific context as it doesn't apply in all cases, too much generalizing going on..

Perfect inflation is not what's listed in your door but rather is something between max inflation and that which is listed as the OEM pressure as it serves as a compromise by the manufacturer to provide the best ride characteristics over all, those are comfort, compliance (performance) and fuel mileage.. If you slightly increase pressure (maybe 4 to 6 pounds max) you will increase tire performance (react quicker and more precisely when you need to evade something/someone), fuel mileage, and tire longevity but decrease ride comfort, that's the only down side to slightly increased tire pressures. So if your backside is too soft go softer tire pressures ..

Se I told you warpy "Im no expert" and yes my fat ass is getting old and soft.

[transam]

Thanks guys,I have been out all day, mrs Jessi like shopping.

Nothing on the doors of the car or in the manual its all written in Thai, so I decided to settle for 26psi, they were 32psi, yes it seems a softer ride.

Lets see how it goes with 26psi, I can always adjust later if needed.

Thank you all once again.

Ever ride has pressure info stuck on the door shuts. Unless it has crash damage repairs...............

[bkkjames]

Thanks guys,I have been out all day, mrs Jessi like shopping.

Nothing on the doors of the car or in the manual its all written in Thai, so I decided to settle for 26psi, they were 32psi, yes it seems a softer ride.

Lets see how it goes with 26psi, I can always adjust later if needed.

Thank you all once again.

keep an eye on the fuel gage as well.

[David48]

Still reckon it should be 32 PSI

Maybe I should change my name to David32 ...

.

[Jessi]

Thanks guys,I have been out all day, mrs Jessi like shopping.

Nothing on the doors of the car or in the manual its all written in Thai, so I decided to settle for 26psi, they were 32psi, yes it seems a softer ride.

Lets see how it goes with 26psi, I can always adjust later if needed.

Thank you all once again.

keep an eye on the fuel gage as well.

LPG James.

[Kaoboi Bebobp]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

[transam]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

Nice to read some common sense.............

[Kwasaki]

Disagree, I always run 4 psi below rec psi, tyres wearing OK for Thailand and the roads.

Recommended means exactly what it means.

[transam]

Disagree, I always run 4 psi below rec psi, tyres wearing OK for Thailand and the roads.

Recommended means exactly what it means.

, you run 25psi on a Vigo.....................

[Kwasaki]

Disagree, I always run 4 psi below rec psi, tyres wearing OK for Thailand and the roads.

Recommended means exactly what it means.

, you run 25psi on a Vigo.....................

Vigo different to car, use to run 26 rear and 28 front and drove mostly in 4 wheel most of the time too.

That should get some reaction from the manual readers.

[WarpSpeed]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

I'm guessing you didn't READ (read comprehend) the entire thread or just choose to ignore previous advice given. You have what practical experience to prove your so firm in your point?? You've done how may speed laps on DOT tires?? You've done how many actual TEST laps on street tires to back up your strong contention? Or are you just another T/A troll? It seems these posters who seldom, if ever are seen all of a sudden show up just to throw fire on a topic but never come back nor offer anything useful in other related topics. At any rate I posted my advice first and he agreed with it, so oh well..

I'd also like to know your definition of "over-inflation" because according to him he also over inflates.. How do you come to the conclusion that your tires are over inflated or not? If you "experiment" then you must "over-inflate" and "under inflate" to find your comfort zone and that has already been suggested long before your post and as was mentioned is more about ride quality and not actual manufacturer recommendations.. He suggested 27 PSI in his first post as that's was the manufacturers supposed recommended pressure was noted in the door frame but soon went to "over-inflation" by all definitions, which BTW has not been defined by anyone but myself.. Anyway carry on...

[transam]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

And you have what practical experience to prove your so strong in your point?? You've done how may speed laps on DOT tires??

, eeeeeeeeeeeeer Warpy, we usually go shopping in our rides in LOS, NOT on a race track..............

[WarpSpeed]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

Nice to read some common sense.............

You wouldn't know common sense if it hit you in the face...

[WarpSpeed]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

And you have what practical experience to prove your so strong in your point?? You've done how may speed laps on DOT tires??

, eeeeeeeeeeeeer Warpy, we usually go shopping in our rides in LOS, NOT on a race track..............

OMG you're so thick it's embarrassing.... Not for me mind but I'm embarrassed for you...

[transam]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

Nice to read some common sense.............

You wouldn't know common sense if it hit you in the face...

Perhaps, but I do know, without the in the face thing, folk who don't understand much about anything motor engineering, but we crack on..............

[Kaoboi Bebobp]

Warp,

There's nothing controversial or esoteric about what I wrote. Could not have been any more straight-forward or clearer.

[bkkjames]

Here's a dummy question cause I am stupid.

Pretty sure is says 41 psi on the plate inside the door. Now I assume this is for the tires / tyes that came with the truck which I have long since replaced with my yoko ono's AT S.

Should these be set at 41 as well (which I have them at) or would this be different because it's a different type of tire / tyre.

I will post this now and go get another coffee and come back and see if what I wrote makes any sense...

[David48]

^^ Makes sense to me ...

How is the ride comfort, harsh, acceptable or comfortable?

What is the wear pattern on the tyres? A little less tread in the centre of the tyre ... or spread evenly across the tyre face?

Checking the depth of tread is easy, using a matchhead.

Hope you enjoyed your Coffee ... I'm off for a brew now myself ...

.

[BSJ]

45 is Ok if your just choofing around the town or suburbs on short trips but for long trips in this heat start off with 30 cold. You'll have 36 - 40 by the time your 200km down the road.

[Jessi]

Transam has got it just about right in every response.

No need to read the stuff below, if you follow the inflation recommendations on the metallic label stuck to the inside of the A-pillar (windshield support) or the B-pillar door jamb (near the locking mechanism) and sometimes on the sill faceup.

The tire is constructed to exact specification of ride, safety, fuel economy and other considerations of the auto manufacturer building that particular car model. The tire maker takes its base technology and tread design and constructs that tire.

In general, under-inflation causes wear on the outter edges and it opens the wheel (rim) to possible blunt object damage (welcome to Thailand!). Result, poorer grip, dry or wet.

Over-inflation pulls the tire edges upward and shrinks the contact patch. Result, poorer grip dry or wet.

Proper inflation makes the car work as designed -- in ALL conditions. Only exception is load factor. Follow the recommendations on the label for high loads and trailer pulling. It's really that simple.

If you change tire brand and model and size, well, hopefully the tire reseller knows what they're doing. Probably not so you will have to experiment, but your pressure rates won't be far off the car and tire maker's original numbers. Unless you go radical. Good luck.

Another poster talks about over-inflation to help water evacuation. No. Normal car operation with a tire oriented toward better wet grip works optimally at standard pressure. The tire compound and tread design squeegee the water out the larger channels as efficiently as they can.

Note: tire makers have not overcome the laws of physics that I'm aware of.

Last: As a rule of thumb, if you keep your tires inflated between 30 and 32 lbs, you will be fine.

And you have what practical experience to prove your so strong in your point?? You've done how may speed laps on DOT tires??

, eeeeeeeeeeeeer Warpy, we usually go shopping in our rides in LOS, NOT on a race track..............

Settle down guys, I didnt start this topic to get a bitch fight going .........TIME OUT....

[Jessi]

^^ Makes sense to me ...

How is the ride comfort, harsh, acceptable or comfortable?

What is the wear pattern on the tyres? A little less tread in the centre of the tyre ... or spread evenly across the tyre face?

Checking the depth of tread is easy, using a matchhead.

Hope you enjoyed your Coffee ... I'm off for a brew now myself ...

.

David 32 please grab some donuts, I think its going to be a loooooong day.

[Kwasaki]

Here's a dummy question cause I am stupid.

Pretty sure is says 41 psi on the plate inside the door. Now I assume this is for the tires / tyes that came with the truck which I have long since replaced with my yoko ono's AT S.

Should these be set at 41 as well (which I have them at) or would this be different because it's a different type of tire / tyre.

I will post this now and go get another coffee and come back and see if what I wrote makes any sense...

41 sounds weird but yes psi for oem tyre that came with the truck.

What size was oem and what size do you run now. ??

AT's are usually larger so the same pressure will be OK if your happy with the ride.

There is a calculation used to find the correct pressure for a change from oem tyres to a different size change on a vehicle for those who like to be precise with recommended pressures, a bit sarcy I know.

One other thing I remember is when changing to different tyres fit the correct tyre type for the vehicle.

[Jessi]

I will be doing a trip up country late next week and I will let you all know if 26psi is suitable or not.

[David48]

^^ Makes sense to me ...

How is the ride comfort, harsh, acceptable or comfortable?

What is the wear pattern on the tyres? A little less tread in the centre of the tyre ... or spread evenly across the tyre face?

Checking the depth of tread is easy, using a matchhead.

Hope you enjoyed your Coffee ... I'm off for a brew now myself ...

.

David 32 please grab some donuts, I think its going to be a loooooong day.

I'm really glad you asked me that, because I saw this earlier today and you've supplied the opportunity to use it ...

I wonder what 'pressure' that donught runs?

[transam]

I will be doing a trip up country late next week and I will let you all know if 26psi is suitable or not.

Keep in mind that under inflation is more dangerous than over inflation..........

[bkkjames]

Here's a dummy question cause I am stupid.

Pretty sure is says 41 psi on the plate inside the door. Now I assume this is for the tires / tyes that came with the truck which I have long since replaced with my yoko ono's AT S.

Should these be set at 41 as well (which I have them at) or would this be different because it's a different type of tire / tyre.

I will post this now and go get another coffee and come back and see if what I wrote makes any sense...

41 sounds weird but yes psi for oem tyre that came with the truck.

What size was oem and what size do you run now. ??

AT's are usually larger so the same pressure will be OK if your happy with the ride.

There is a calculation used to find the correct pressure for a change from oem tyres to a different size change on a vehicle for those who like to be precise with recommended pressures, a bit sarcy I know.

One other thing I remember is when changing to different tyres fit the correct tyre type for the vehicle.

same size 16 inch - <deleted> , i just went out to villa to grab some shopping and forgot to look at what it says. Will make a trip down to the beast later and take a photo.

41 seems ok, not overly harsh on our crappy roads. maybe I am used to the bumps.

[bkkjames]

Ok had a look, sticker says 35 f and r for normal loads up to 41 in the rear for heavy loads.

On the tire it say max 51...

I lowered all 4 to around 37 for now.

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

[David48]

Ok had a look, sticker says 35 f and r for normal loads up to 41 in the rear for heavy loads.

On the tire it say max 51...

I lowered all 4 to around 37 for now.

Thank god for that.

I was worried that you might go from ...

to this

.

[transam]

Ok had a look, sticker says 35 f and r for normal loads up to 41 in the rear for heavy loads.

On the tire it say max 51...

I lowered all 4 to around 37 for now.

Thank god for that.

I was worried that you might go from ...

to this

.

NO SIR, we look for cracks to appear for the over inflation.......................