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Posted

I have just removed tiles and exposed screed/concrete substructure, it is however very dusty and there is really no way to completely get rid of it all, would sealing with water PVA be recommended before retiling? would this interfere with/diminish the new adhesive-substructure bonding?

Posted

Never heard of using PVA and yes there could be compatibility issues with tile adhesive. Check out a Sika concrete sealant product - available here, not too expensive

Sent from my iPhone using Thaivisa Connect Thailand

Posted

No you don't need to use pva on the floors, usually use it if tiles are going onto a newly plastered or plasterboard surface or a plywood surface to seal a porous surface and give it extra bonding.

For a screeded floor, you only need to seal it if you are leaving it exposed. As you are tiling again, just sweep the dust again prior to tiling,spray or mop the surface to make it wet.......then the key element is to mix the milky latex into the powder adhesive.

This gives it the stick like sh1t factor.

This is all you need. I use it at about 1litre per 9m2

post-150623-1402136831018_thumb.jpgpost-150623-14021368688551_thumb.jpg

No need to add Chang, that's my treat for the good advice :rolleyes:

Posted

hm.. latex admixture, never heard of this- will check it out for appropriateness with natural stone adhesive.

You have never heard of latex.....you have never done tiling before then! should be included every time with floor tiling no matter what.

Natural stone adhesive is called mortar. if thats the case forget the bagged adhesive, but yes you still need to add the latex into the mortar as it makes it flexible and sticky and the other properties listed on the back of the tub.

Posted

There are only 3 replies to your post and 2 part anything has never been mentioned.

Your problem was a dusty floor and possible lack of adhesion., hence the latex which had several properties.

No you will not see a bag of adhesive recommending another additive, but what you will see is a disclaimer almost.....often first item,....please ensure all surfaces are clean and free of dust.

You can lay your tiles with sand and cement mortar, but if you don't want to include the latex be prepared lay them at speed because they will dry out and devons quicker than you will believe.

Did you read the label on the photo I posted,may help you understand.

Posted

No you don't need to use pva on the floors, usually use it if tiles are going onto a newly plastered or plasterboard surface or a plywood surface to seal a porous surface and give it extra bonding.

For a screeded floor, you only need to seal it if you are leaving it exposed. As you are tiling again, just sweep the dust again prior to tiling,spray or mop the surface to make it wet.......then the key element is to mix the milky latex into the powder adhesive.

This gives it the stick like sh1t factor.

This is all you need. I use it at about 1litre per 9m2

attachicon.gif1402136784742.jpgattachicon.gif1402136822563.jpg

No need to add Chang, that's my treat for the good advice :rolleyes:

Every post of eyecatchers is right on the money !

Posted

My brother in law is a tiler here in Australia, I can ask him what the professionals do if you want?

Posted

Do they add latex to all tile adhesives (porcelain, marble, granite, wall etc) as a performance enhancer and is it worth the money?

Do they say penny foolish pound wise?

That tub of latex was about 150bt maybe less.

On the basis that two weeks after you finish and its looking great that the grout starts to crack and fall out, then two tiles de bond.

In hindsight you will be wishing you had spent 150bt instead of the effort to rip out, clean off, buy new bag of adhesive maybe another pack of ten tiles, it goes on and on.

Here's another one,

Don't spoil the shop for ha`peth of tar.

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