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When switch to new tires? I have passed 58.000 km. from new.


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Tires (rubber) does harden with age so when you do buy, buy recently made rubber not something years old that has been in storage.

Age of manufacture is on the tires sidewall.

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Hi.

I've used tyres more than probably most of you on here.

Road trains (Multi's) Semi's. cars. 4wd's. Motorbikes.

Raced M'Bikes and rally cars most of younger life (till around 50)

Mainly 4WD's the last 25 yrs.so I've used a few in my time.

I've always rotated. even the truck wheels.

It will give you.depending on the tyre usage and vehicle.

Up to an extra 20\30% ot usage.

and when. Like my Patrol tyres. They are $340 AU EACH. (X5).

That's a lot of extra money value.

Rear wheel drives With a heavy right foot. burn the rears out first. fast driving. scrubs the shoulders off the steering tyres.

Rotation. evens it out a bit and you get longer life.

Front wheel drive (most modern cars) wear out the driving (front tyres first)

Rotation on them Definitely extends the life.

I don't know price of tyres in Thailand, but here in Aust. the primarily 4WD tyres (Up here in Q'Land and N.T)

Start off at cheapest. around $220 each. Decent tyres start at $275ish. good. Over $300 each.

HAVE to be replaced in sets of 4 to keep rolling diameters equal for Axle "wind up".

So it becomes an expensive item when you do it.

A 20 to 35% extension on your tyre life IS... viable in some cases...

Tiny little town cars (corolla's etc). Probably not so important..

Edited by macka17
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The only time you HAVE to keep wheels on same side of vehicle

Is with some performance car tyres. Which have e a directional tread pattern on them.

Unless you change tyres on wheels first.

And ALWAYS get a wheel alignment every time you fit a set. Plus wheel balance obviously.

And if your tyres start to get that "sawtooth " look.It's normally your shockers.

Change them too.

Edited by macka17
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The only time you HAVE to keep wheels on same side of vehicle

Is with some performance car tyres. Which have e a directional tread pattern on them.

Unless you change tyres on wheels first.

You were doing well until you got to this point..

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The only time you HAVE to keep wheels on same side of vehicle

Is with some performance car tyres. Which have e a directional tread pattern on them.

Unless you change tyres on wheels first.

You were doing well until you got to this point..

So was my local Toyota dealers service department doing well untill they rotated our 1 directional tyres. blink.pnglaugh.png

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both posted together.

rotated correctly. not like my brain worked then.

Not a problem. Me wrong.

Chganging subject for second.

What is the price for decent. IE Pirelly Bridgestone. BFG (yuk) Coopers (double yuk) 4 by tyres

265\275\70\16? over there in Thailand.

Edited by macka17
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both posted together.

rotated correctly. not like my brain worked then.

Not a problem. Me wrong.

Chganging subject for second.

What is the price for decent. IE Pirelly Bridgestone. BFG (yuk) Coopers (double yuk) 4 by tyres

265\275\70\16? over there in Thailand.

Massive can of worms that Q many brands of tyres in Thailand at all different prices.

If you ' google ' some Thai tyre shop web sites you will get some idea.

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Waffle James??

in the words of Manuel "K?"

What. .

CK What"

Who is CK Watt?

Manaher....

Is he the Manager?

Fawlty,

Faulty, what's wrong with him?...

What's wrong with you , you silly little man?

wink.png

Well he's saying rotation is not necessary and rotating from front to back is also not necessary but earlier you agreed they do and the pattern is correct from front to rear and not diagonally, but in that post you shifted to his direction? Just wondering if you needed a direction correction too or if you just misunderstood his posts?

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Waffle James??

in the words of Manuel "K?"

What. .

CK What"

Who is CK Watt?

Manaher....

Is he the Manager?

Fawlty,

Faulty, what's wrong with him?...

What's wrong with you , you silly little man?

wink.png

Well he's saying rotation is not necessary and rotating from front to back is also not necessary but earlier you agreed they do and the pattern is correct from front to rear and not diagonally, but in that post you shifted to his direction? Just wondering if you needed a direction correction too or if you just misunderstood his posts?

Well I guess I must of misunderstood something cause I still don't know have a clue :)

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

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Fair enough, but do they have them now on Street Racer/Drag Cars Stateside.Watching the Murder Nova on Utube and that spin and wasted power would drive me mad.?.Had nearly 500Bhp on my Evo,but it never made that wasted power spin due to a 4W.D. and Sequential Box. and a Brilliant Driver naturally.thumbsup.gif

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Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are. rolleyes.gif

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

My car will be 3 years in September.

3 years old is no problem even in this heat as the tyres are designed to withstand the climate here just the same as they are designed for the weather in Lapland. The wear bars are 1.6 mm deep and that is the minimum to go by BUT that is across the width of the tread. If your tyres are wearing unevenly find a tyre shop that has a 4 wheel tracking system and know how to use it. Not so easy. Where I live there are two motor dealers with systems, neither are maintained properly or have pieces missing and no trained staff. Some places use an ordinary tape measure and on the front wheels only! Often it is a rear wheel out of alignment that causes front and rear wheel tyre wear and pulling to one side.

Edited by Anon999
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Waffle James??

in the words of Manuel "K?"

What. .

CK What"

Who is CK Watt?

Manaher....

Is he the Manager?

Fawlty,

Faulty, what's wrong with him?...

What's wrong with you , you silly little man?

wink.png

Well he's saying rotation is not necessary and rotating from front to back is also not necessary but earlier you agreed they do and the pattern is correct from front to rear and not diagonally, but in that post you shifted to his direction? Just wondering if you needed a direction correction too or if you just misunderstood his posts?

Well I guess I must of misunderstood something cause I still don't know have a clue smile.png

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Ok that's what happens with these sort of knot tying mess ups so we'll just let it lie, no worries.. But if you go back to the posts in question you may discover the misunderstandings..

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Waffle James??

in the words of Manuel "K?"

What. .

CK What"

Who is CK Watt?

Manaher....

Is he the Manager?

Fawlty,

Faulty, what's wrong with him?...

What's wrong with you , you silly little man?

wink.png

Well he's saying rotation is not necessary and rotating from front to back is also not necessary but earlier you agreed they do and the pattern is correct from front to rear and not diagonally, but in that post you shifted to his direction? Just wondering if you needed a direction correction too or if you just misunderstood his posts?

Well I guess I must of misunderstood something cause I still don't know have a clue smile.png

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Ok that's what happens with these sort of knot tying mess ups so we'll just let it lie, no worries.. But if you go back to the posts in question you may discover the misunderstandings..

If I misunderstood something so be it - I believe tire rotation is a good thing - I will continue to do it (not on a weekly basis but let's say every 10k or so like I have done all my life lol

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Ok then that's affirmative, there was the confusion, I agree with you but the post you responded to made it seemed as if you'd changed direction and agreed with the other poster who opposed it and was calling our advice to do so,"rubbish".. I think all is clear as mud now, so I'll get me hat and coat & be gone until the next relevant post requires me attention, cherio thumbsup.gif ..

Edited by WarpSpeed
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Your km you had driven them already, do not say much, regarding needy to change.

More likely age and how worn down they are. rolleyes.gif

http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/buying-guide/when-should-i-change-my-tyres

Wish I had found that michelin link last week for it seems I replaced 'good' tires. My 8 year old Ranger has only done 90,000 (garaged 5 months of the year) and has not had one puncture despite our local road not being surfaced.

Oh! well seems I will be replacing the car before the new set of tires suncheers.gif

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You think they backwards in '76.

My first Motorbike was a '37 Machless 350 single.

Solid rear end. IE Wheel frame arse.

and a set of springs at front. (Called a springer)

That was in '55.

First car ('57) was a Morris minor '48\9? soft top 1000cc engine

Side valve 8 vave engine. with Solex carby and Magneto.

Second one was a '34 Austin "Ruby". 10hp side valve. 4 door

Austin 10 was a 2 door. cost all of 5 Quid cash.

Crank handle on front to swing motor over. and quite often run up the hedges on side of rd to stop.

Brakes really were 90% non existent.

Next one was a LAnd Rover soft top 1000cc engine side valve fixed 4wd (like the Range Rover copied.)

they only had the one lever Up\Down for High\low range. and a push button under dash to start them

Those were the days. All Pre '66 after coming out of the Army.
You lot don't know what you missed.. Chuckle.
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Ah, I love the smell of burning rubber in the afternoon! But not just any rubber.

post-63954-0-57612400-1405132497_thumb.j

Which has little to do with Daglings people mover. But I've always been of the view that a tyre isn't worm out till the tread rubber has gone....or the ozone cracks show the cores when the tyre has a heavy load on it.

That's not to say I would drive a car or pick-up like that, but around the farm or in the village it's quite the norm.

I'd just keep driving till the tread wear indicators show prominently.

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You said you "need" to replace.... what is the "need"? Was it based on a recommendation by people whom will benefit from the sales or from the people that will use the product?

I had the same scenario last year for my 2007 CRV. At 2011, the dealer "recommended" for me to change it. At a total cost of 37,000 baht, I told them I will wait and use my best judgment.

My father on the other hand, changed his tires when recommended by the mechanics/dealer, on the 4th year. His tires looked good, tread depth was good.

Use your best judgment, there are many factors to determine if your tires needs to be changed.

- Tread depth. Check it. If it's low, change it. If it's low and you don't change it, you will risk aquaplaning (Aquaplaning Wiki).

- Physical damages on the sidewalls and contact area. If you see "significant" damages to the sidewall or contact area, change it. (How to know when Car Tires Need Replacing, wikiHow.)

I reached my tread depth limit on my CRV on the 6th year, at the same time I noticed micro cracks on the contact area. Other than that, the overall tire looked good. Michelins. I then decided to look for tires the following year, looking for the cheapest I can possibly find. My target was Maxxis tires, just because I heard they were cheap. I don't drive like a bandit, so performance is not an issue. I am overly concerned with aquaplaning or wet driving performance, so I read up on every review I can find on the net on Maxxis tires. Honestly, 99% of the reviews was good.... so... the only way to know was actually buying it and trying them for myself.

On the 7th year, my tires showed considerable signs of aging, newborn was coming, so I decided to go for the change. Managed to find a shop that sells the tires I want, 12,800 baht total (compared to over 30,000 for Michelins at the dealer).

A lot of people asked why I would make a "drastic" change from Michelins to Maxxis, I told them cost plus my own best judgment from internet research.

To date, after 1.5 years, the Maxxis haven't given me any problems.

The reason why I changed wasn't because people told me to change, but rather it was because I saw the need.

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You said you "need" to replace.... what is the "need"? Was it based on a recommendation by people whom will benefit from the sales or from the people that will use the product?

I had the same scenario last year for my 2007 CRV. At 2011, the dealer "recommended" for me to change it. At a total cost of 37,000 baht, I told them I will wait and use my best judgment.

My father on the other hand, changed his tires when recommended by the mechanics/dealer, on the 4th year. His tires looked good, tread depth was good.

Use your best judgment, there are many factors to determine if your tires needs to be changed.

- Tread depth. Check it. If it's low, change it. If it's low and you don't change it, you will risk aquaplaning (Aquaplaning Wiki).

- Physical damages on the sidewalls and contact area. If you see "significant" damages to the sidewall or contact area, change it. (How to know when Car Tires Need Replacing, wikiHow.)

I reached my tread depth limit on my CRV on the 6th year, at the same time I noticed micro cracks on the contact area. Other than that, the overall tire looked good. Michelins. I then decided to look for tires the following year, looking for the cheapest I can possibly find. My target was Maxxis tires, just because I heard they were cheap. I don't drive like a bandit, so performance is not an issue. I am overly concerned with aquaplaning or wet driving performance, so I read up on every review I can find on the net on Maxxis tires. Honestly, 99% of the reviews was good.... so... the only way to know was actually buying it and trying them for myself.

On the 7th year, my tires showed considerable signs of aging, newborn was coming, so I decided to go for the change. Managed to find a shop that sells the tires I want, 12,800 baht total (compared to over 30,000 for Michelins at the dealer).

A lot of people asked why I would make a "drastic" change from Michelins to Maxxis, I told them cost plus my own best judgment from internet research.

To date, after 1.5 years, the Maxxis haven't given me any problems.

The reason why I changed wasn't because people told me to change, but rather it was because I saw the need.

And your fathers garage would sell the old ones on. whistling.gif

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Forget your kilometers on your tires ok . go by the amount of tread you have left cm.... BUT .... The safe structural life of a tire is about 8 years.. some say 7 and some say up to 10 years . 8 years is a good yardstick. Naturally if they are worn out or low on tread any time in the tires safe structural life you replace them.

If you know how to read the factory production date that helps you ... For example look for 4 small consecutive numbers on a tire which total about 2 cm. long . Sometimes you have to look hard . They could be near the band where the tread starts or they could be near the rim and hard to see but generally they are there ..

So my tires are Michelin and the 4 numbers are 1410... The first 2 numbers indicate the week number of the year .. So 14 is the 14th week of the year which would put them into April production... my second 2 numbers are 10 which makes them manufactured in year 2010. Hence my tires were manufactured in April 2010.. The first 2 numbers can't be any higher than 52 as there are 52weeks in the year and the other 2 numbers can't be higher than 14 as this year is 2014

Once you understand this it makes you savvy when you buy tires. Look at the date to see if they are 2 years old already.. Only buy tires which are about 3 to 6 months old.. the reason you don't want them brand new is that rubber needs to "cure".. Sometimes new tires are on a new car are both straight off the assembly line. Usually through good stock control and being ahead of demand things are ok BUT if they are not "cured " that may lead to future problems Eg. small lumps sheering off while they still have tread on them...all this is worse in a hot climate and also a good percent don't check their tires enough.. Under inflation generates more heat shortening the life the tire and lowering your general level of safety.. which when you think about it is stupid.

Happy motoring and remember the basic principles as in many things are COMMON SENSE.

James

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Forget your kilometers on your tires ok . go by the amount of tread you have left cm.... BUT .... The safe structural life of a tire is about 8 years.. some say 7 and some say up to 10 years . 8 years is a good yardstick. Naturally if they are worn out or low on tread any time in the tires safe structural life you replace them.

If you know how to read the factory production date that helps you ... For example look for 4 small consecutive numbers on a tire which total about 2 cm. long . Sometimes you have to look hard . They could be near the band where the tread starts or they could be near the rim and hard to see but generally they are there ..

So my tires are Michelin and the 4 numbers are 1410... The first 2 numbers indicate the week number of the year .. So 14 is the 14th week of the year which would put them into April production... my second 2 numbers are 10 which makes them manufactured in year 2010. Hence my tires were manufactured in April 2010.. The first 2 numbers can't be any higher than 52 as there are 52weeks in the year and the other 2 numbers can't be higher than 14 as this year is 2014

Once you understand this it makes you savvy when you buy tires. Look at the date to see if they are 2 years old already.. Only buy tires which are about 3 to 6 months old.. the reason you don't want them brand new is that rubber needs to "cure".. Sometimes new tires are on a new car are both straight off the assembly line. Usually through good stock control and being ahead of demand things are ok BUT if they are not "cured " that may lead to future problems Eg. small lumps sheering off while they still have tread on them...all this is worse in a hot climate and also a good percent don't check their tires enough.. Under inflation generates more heat shortening the life the tire and lowering your general level of safety.. which when you think about it is stupid.

Happy motoring and remember the basic principles as in many things are COMMON SENSE.

James

Not that the rest of the motoring forum would suspect it anyway... This informative post was not mine :) the boldest part is a dead give away lol

Sent from my LG-P970 using Thaivisa Connect Thailand mobile app

Edited by bkkjames
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And your fathers garage would sell the old ones on. whistling.gif

Can't believe this has gone on for so long.blink.png

You bring up something that a workshop in our village does sell on used tyres.

When I changed the tyres on my Vigo they were almost slicks, so maybe someone is using them for racing.laugh.pngbiggrin.png

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And your fathers garage would sell the old ones on. whistling.gif

Can't believe this has gone on for so long.blink.png

You bring up something that a workshop in our village does sell on used tyres.

When I changed the tyres on my Vigo they were almost slicks, so maybe someone is using them for racing.laugh.pngbiggrin.png

Back in the UK there are businesses selling second hand tyres, fleet cars have tyres changed at set intervals whether it's needed or not, sooooooo, they are sold on, am sure it happens here.

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both posted together.

rotated correctly. not like my brain worked then.

Not a problem. Me wrong.

Chganging subject for second.

What is the price for decent. IE Pirelly Bridgestone. BFG (yuk) Coopers (double yuk) 4 by tyres

265\275\70\16? over there in Thailand.

265/70R16 is a common pickup tyre size in LOS. The standard name brands like Bridgestone Dueler, Yokohama Geolandar etc are usually priced from around 5000 baht up. These are general purpose highway tyres. There are some cheaper brands around like Maxxis that are also OK. More specialised (off road) tyres etc will be more unless in a cheaper brand.

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