Maintenance on new Mazda BT50

[Dave8237]

I am now in possession of a pdf file, which is the Mazda BT50 pro 2012 onwards user manual, in English. 238 pages, but will just print off all the relevant parts which ascertain to my model.

18 months on I might understand what the mysterious buttons are for

[keemapoot]

Check fluid levels and belt tension.

As a previous poster suggested it would have been good to drop the oil and spin a new filter on at 1000km. It's a bit old school and possibly not necessary anymore but certainly can't hurt.

Modern engine are built and machined to the point that running in is almost redundant. That combine with the superior lubrication properties of synthetic oils your fine to 10000km. Just drive it normally. Don't baby it or thrash it for the first few thousand km and you should be good.

Yeah, it really is different with modern engines now and service intervals. I just bought a new Ford and the first service, including oil change, isn't until 15,000km. The dealer also stated that that first oil change will be a bit more expensive than previously, but that with the new oil filter tech and oil and machining tech of the engines, that is the deal now.

Old skool guys like me are left a little skeptical by all this, but it's true.

[transam]

Check fluid levels and belt tension.

As a previous poster suggested it would have been good to drop the oil and spin a new filter on at 1000km. It's a bit old school and possibly not necessary anymore but certainly can't hurt.

Modern engine are built and machined to the point that running in is almost redundant. That combine with the superior lubrication properties of synthetic oils your fine to 10000km. Just drive it normally. Don't baby it or thrash it for the first few thousand km and you should be good.

Yeah, it really is different with modern engines now and service intervals. I just bought a new Ford and the first service, including oil change, isn't until 15,000km. The dealer also stated that that first oil change will be a bit more expensive than previously, but that with the new oil filter tech and oil and machining tech of the engines, that is the deal now.

Old skool guys like me are left a little skeptical by all this, but it's true.

The old saying, "it's up to you". Remember, it's your expensive purchase, your money, and your insurance for engine longevity..........

Toyota when I took it back at 1000km, I just said "do it and record it, thank you".

Folk here will say no need but they don't know what difference it might make when the Km builds up.

Remember this, the cylinder bores are lubricated by splash, the crank picks oil up from the sump and chucks it around. I have never yet taken off a sump without crap in the bottom. My fun ride had a magnet set in the sump plug which always had ferrous stuff stuck to it.

But, if your lucky enough to change your ride every few years..........

[keemapoot]

^TA, I hear ya, but what would be the reason the manufacturers are now saying you don't need to change the oil as often anymore if not for some good technology reason? After all, they have to stand by their engine warranties.

*My wife went to the dealer training on the vehicle they provide to customers because of all the new tech, and the trainer (whom she said was great and seemingly knew everything) stated that the oil change interval is now longer, but a big more expensive, and showed a powerpoint of how the overall cost has been reduced because of this.

Edited September 8, 2014 by keemapoot

[transam]

^TA, I hear ya, but what would be the reason the manufacturers are now saying you don't need to change the oil as often anymore if not for some good technology reason? After all, they have to stand by their engine warranties.

When it comes to engineering stuff manufacturers of engines have sure moved on, BUT, on an assembly line anything can occur that shouldn't. For me it is my insurance that costs next to nothing.

When importing stuff for my fun ride I always stripped it down and cleaned it. Near always found crap. Found a lump of swarf in a new well known electric fuel pump once, yeh the filter would of caught it but it shouldn't have been there. Actually the internal fuel exit hole was out of line to , had to machine it to open it up. Sorry, blabbering now...

[Spoonman]

Check fluid levels and belt tension.

As a previous poster suggested it would have been good to drop the oil and spin a new filter on at 1000km. It's a bit old school and possibly not necessary anymore but certainly can't hurt.

Modern engine are built and machined to the point that running in is almost redundant. That combine with the superior lubrication properties of synthetic oils your fine to 10000km. Just drive it normally. Don't baby it or thrash it for the first few thousand km and you should be good.

Yeah, it really is different with modern engines now and service intervals. I just bought a new Ford and the first service, including oil change, isn't until 15,000km. The dealer also stated that that first oil change will be a bit more expensive than previously, but that with the new oil filter tech and oil and machining tech of the engines, that is the deal now.

Old skool guys like me are left a little skeptical by all this, but it's true.

The old saying, "it's up to you". Remember, it's your expensive purchase, your money, and your insurance for engine longevity..........

Toyota when I took it back at 1000km, I just said "do it and record it, thank you".

Folk here will say no need but they don't know what difference it might make when the Km builds up.

Remember this, the cylinder bores are lubricated by splash, the crank picks oil up from the sump and chucks it around. I have never yet taken off a sump without crap in the bottom. My fun ride had a magnet set in the sump plug which always had ferrous stuff stuck to it.

But, if your lucky enough to change your ride every few years..........

The Cylinders in the BT-50/Ranger are lubricated by squirt bars aiming up under the piston. Having the crank chuck around the oil is not a good thing and would be surprised if that is how it done even on your old Hilux.

[transam]

Check fluid levels and belt tension.

As a previous poster suggested it would have been good to drop the oil and spin a new filter on at 1000km. It's a bit old school and possibly not necessary anymore but certainly can't hurt.

Modern engine are built and machined to the point that running in is almost redundant. That combine with the superior lubrication properties of synthetic oils your fine to 10000km. Just drive it normally. Don't baby it or thrash it for the first few thousand km and you should be good.

Yeah, it really is different with modern engines now and service intervals. I just bought a new Ford and the first service, including oil change, isn't until 15,000km. The dealer also stated that that first oil change will be a bit more expensive than previously, but that with the new oil filter tech and oil and machining tech of the engines, that is the deal now.

Old skool guys like me are left a little skeptical by all this, but it's true.

The old saying, "it's up to you". Remember, it's your expensive purchase, your money, and your insurance for engine longevity..........

Toyota when I took it back at 1000km, I just said "do it and record it, thank you".

Folk here will say no need but they don't know what difference it might make when the Km builds up.

Remember this, the cylinder bores are lubricated by splash, the crank picks oil up from the sump and chucks it around. I have never yet taken off a sump without crap in the bottom. My fun ride had a magnet set in the sump plug which always had ferrous stuff stuck to it.

But, if your lucky enough to change your ride every few years..........

The Cylinders in the BT-50/Ranger are lubricated by squirt bars aiming up under the piston. Having the crank chuck around the oil is not a good thing and would be surprised if that is how it done even on your old Hilux.

That may be so on that engine, but does the crank touch sump oil ?

As for the Vigo I have no idea, hence my cheap insurance.

Not yet worked on an engine with rod fed squirt. But if yours is I wonder why they have the fifth cylinder problem, perhaps oil not dealing with a heat spot.

[Spoonman]

I don't know if the crank touches the oil or not, ideally it should not though.

[JacChang]

To the OP,

The manual you can request corporate to give it to you. Don't even bother with your salesman or local dealer, after you paid the money they are useless. I was given the run around by my sales, saying he already asked the Car Company for it, waiting for it to arrive. Well guess what? Never arrived, 2 months waiting, I emailed corporate directly. They were happy to send me one for free. Arrived in 1 week by mail.

As for tire pressure, I usually check once in 2 weeks or once in a month. I'm picky nicky. Remember to check your tires when they are cold though, meaning not driven over 2-3 kms, and not parked directly under the sun. As the tire warms up from use, the psi could go up 2-4 psi which will be inaccurate. You could be at the pump putting 40psi, then returning home only to find out next morning it's only 36psi.

The oils, which one member said a wrong comment. You can buy your own engine oil, and supply it to your dealer to use. It is completely acceptable and will not void your warranty in anyway. This has been confirmed by corporate themselves. Reason is, dealers overcharged their engine oil usually by 2x the normal price. Next is, the engine oil they use may be lousier than what you could buy yourself. Also to make sure they actually use your oil, request the empty bottles to be put in the back of your truck after the maintenance. There are many stories of mechanics taking your oil for their own use, and putting other stuff for your engine. Yes, at dealers.

I would recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol. And buy directly from the company themselves. I found one, which is sort of like a factory, I drive in and the guard was selling it, the Mobil 1. Cheaper price compared to Esso station or the "auto parts shop". Auto parts shop, I am afraid would carry fake engine oil too. And get the synthetic oil.

[Spoonman]

Problem with the handbook, they haven't give me English version - have asked several times.

You can download the English version here.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/617581-all-new-ford-ranger-and-mazda-bt-50-service-manuals-free-download/

The link to the download is dead. I have looked at this before, and it was for BT50, up 2012, prior to the new model. I have yet to do this, and no idea why I haven't, and that would be to contact Mazda Australia as this vehicle is sold there, but in different models, but it will give enough info on the important stuff

Really. I just downloaded the link in post #8 and not only is it alive it is for the 2012+ model.

Here is the link for the download (that I just downloaded).

http://www.filefactory.com/file/ith81885hzp/n/MazdaBT50proeng_zip

[Spoonman]

To the OP,

The manual you can request corporate to give it to you. Don't even bother with your salesman or local dealer, after you paid the money they are useless. I was given the run around by my sales, saying he already asked the Car Company for it, waiting for it to arrive. Well guess what? Never arrived, 2 months waiting, I emailed corporate directly. They were happy to send me one for free. Arrived in 1 week by mail.

As for tire pressure, I usually check once in 2 weeks or once in a month. I'm picky nicky. Remember to check your tires when they are cold though, meaning not driven over 2-3 kms, and not parked directly under the sun. As the tire warms up from use, the psi could go up 2-4 psi which will be inaccurate. You could be at the pump putting 40psi, then returning home only to find out next morning it's only 36psi.

The oils, which one member said a wrong comment. You can buy your own engine oil, and supply it to your dealer to use. It is completely acceptable and will not void your warranty in anyway. This has been confirmed by corporate themselves. Reason is, dealers overcharged their engine oil usually by 2x the normal price. Next is, the engine oil they use may be lousier than what you could buy yourself. Also to make sure they actually use your oil, request the empty bottles to be put in the back of your truck after the maintenance. There are many stories of mechanics taking your oil for their own use, and putting other stuff for your engine. Yes, at dealers.

I would recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol. And buy directly from the company themselves. I found one, which is sort of like a factory, I drive in and the guard was selling it, the Mobil 1. Cheaper price compared to Esso station or the "auto parts shop". Auto parts shop, I am afraid would carry fake engine oil too. And get the synthetic oil.

So you are saying one can buy any oil of their choosing and corporate themselves say they are OK with their technicians putting it into the vehicle and will not void the warranty if it all turns to poo (cause of the wrong oil)....... I hope you got that in writing.

Edited September 8, 2014 by Spoonman

[culicine]

To the OP,

The manual you can request corporate to give it to you. Don't even bother with your salesman or local dealer, after you paid the money they are useless. I was given the run around by my sales, saying he already asked the Car Company for it, waiting for it to arrive. Well guess what? Never arrived, 2 months waiting, I emailed corporate directly. They were happy to send me one for free. Arrived in 1 week by mail.

As for tire pressure, I usually check once in 2 weeks or once in a month. I'm picky nicky. Remember to check your tires when they are cold though, meaning not driven over 2-3 kms, and not parked directly under the sun. As the tire warms up from use, the psi could go up 2-4 psi which will be inaccurate. You could be at the pump putting 40psi, then returning home only to find out next morning it's only 36psi.

The oils, which one member said a wrong comment. You can buy your own engine oil, and supply it to your dealer to use. It is completely acceptable and will not void your warranty in anyway. This has been confirmed by corporate themselves. Reason is, dealers overcharged their engine oil usually by 2x the normal price. Next is, the engine oil they use may be lousier than what you could buy yourself. Also to make sure they actually use your oil, request the empty bottles to be put in the back of your truck after the maintenance. There are many stories of mechanics taking your oil for their own use, and putting other stuff for your engine. Yes, at dealers.

I would recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol. And buy directly from the company themselves. I found one, which is sort of like a factory, I drive in and the guard was selling it, the Mobil 1. Cheaper price compared to Esso station or the "auto parts shop". Auto parts shop, I am afraid would carry fake engine oil too. And get the synthetic oil.

So you are saying one can buy any oil of their choosing and corporate themselves say they are OK with their technicians putting it into the vehicle and will not void the warranty if it all turns to poo (cause of the wrong oil)....... I hope you got that in writing.

If it's the same grade how can it be the 'wrong oil'? Or do dealers tell owners they can only use their supplied oil. For many years I supplied synthetic to the honda dealer and thy put it in. Nothing was ever said about it.

[shaurene]

Hi had my new BT-50. 2.5 turbo now 3 yrs I took mne back to the main dealer for it's 10k service. I waited for it to be done and took the odd walk around it being done they seemed to make a good job of it.

But have not had one since now 35k goes superb I'm believer if it is ok do not try and fix it. I get good valets once a month and air filter blown clean, check and top up oil when needed. Good for me. Mine is not the PRO.

[Spoonman]

To the OP,

The manual you can request corporate to give it to you. Don't even bother with your salesman or local dealer, after you paid the money they are useless. I was given the run around by my sales, saying he already asked the Car Company for it, waiting for it to arrive. Well guess what? Never arrived, 2 months waiting, I emailed corporate directly. They were happy to send me one for free. Arrived in 1 week by mail.

As for tire pressure, I usually check once in 2 weeks or once in a month. I'm picky nicky. Remember to check your tires when they are cold though, meaning not driven over 2-3 kms, and not parked directly under the sun. As the tire warms up from use, the psi could go up 2-4 psi which will be inaccurate. You could be at the pump putting 40psi, then returning home only to find out next morning it's only 36psi.

The oils, which one member said a wrong comment. You can buy your own engine oil, and supply it to your dealer to use. It is completely acceptable and will not void your warranty in anyway. This has been confirmed by corporate themselves. Reason is, dealers overcharged their engine oil usually by 2x the normal price. Next is, the engine oil they use may be lousier than what you could buy yourself. Also to make sure they actually use your oil, request the empty bottles to be put in the back of your truck after the maintenance. There are many stories of mechanics taking your oil for their own use, and putting other stuff for your engine. Yes, at dealers.

I would recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol. And buy directly from the company themselves. I found one, which is sort of like a factory, I drive in and the guard was selling it, the Mobil 1. Cheaper price compared to Esso station or the "auto parts shop". Auto parts shop, I am afraid would carry fake engine oil too. And get the synthetic oil.

So you are saying one can buy any oil of their choosing and corporate themselves say they are OK with their technicians putting it into the vehicle and will not void the warranty if it all turns to poo (cause of the wrong oil)....... I hope you got that in writing.

If it's the same grade how can it be the 'wrong oil'? Or do dealers tell owners they can only use their supplied oil. For many years I supplied synthetic to the honda dealer and thy put it in. Nothing was ever said about it.

Where was "same grade" mentioned ?

But what is the same grade... not all 10w 40 (or whatever numbers you want to choose) oils are the same.

Edited September 8, 2014 by Spoonman

[Spoonman]

Hi had my new BT-50. 2.5 turbo now 3 yrs I took mne back to the main dealer for it's 10k service. I waited for it to be done and took the odd walk around it being done they seemed to make a good job of it.

But have not had one since now 35k goes superb I'm believer if it is ok do not try and fix it. I get good valets once a month and air filter blown clean, check and top up oil when needed. Good for me. Mine is not the PRO.

If your BT-50 is infact the 2.5 it is the old model and not relevant to this discussion as they are workhorses and not fragile show ponies like the newer one.

[JacChang]

Dear Sir,

We would like to thank you for your valuable support and trust our product.

It the engine oil Mobil 1 Synthetic are same grade or higher nissan grade ( SAE and velocity)

the customer can use and warranty can cover. But oil filter and o ring recommend to use nissan only.

Warranty will cover if the customer bring that car to check at NISSAN service center every 10,000 km.

and change lubricate oil. If the customer change all lubricate oil from out side shop , the warranty will cancel.

Best Regards,

Customer Service

NISSAN MOTOR (THAILAND) CO.,LTD.

Dear Sir,

We would like to thank you for your valuable support and trust our product.

It the engine oil Mobil 1 Synthetic are same grade or higher nissan grade ( SAE and velocity)

the customer can use and warranty can cover. But oil filter and o ring recommend to use nissan only.

Warranty will cover if the customer bring that car to check at NISSAN service center every 10,000 km.

and change lubricate oil. If the customer change all lubricate oil from out side shop , the warranty will cancel.

Best Regards,

Customer Service

NISSAN MOTOR (THAILAND) CO.,LTD.

<script type='text/javascript'>window.mod_pagespeed_start = Number(new Date());</script>

To the OP,

The manual you can request corporate to give it to you. Don't even bother with your salesman or local dealer, after you paid the money they are useless. I was given the run around by my sales, saying he already asked the Car Company for it, waiting for it to arrive. Well guess what? Never arrived, 2 months waiting, I emailed corporate directly. They were happy to send me one for free. Arrived in 1 week by mail.

As for tire pressure, I usually check once in 2 weeks or once in a month. I'm picky nicky. Remember to check your tires when they are cold though, meaning not driven over 2-3 kms, and not parked directly under the sun. As the tire warms up from use, the psi could go up 2-4 psi which will be inaccurate. You could be at the pump putting 40psi, then returning home only to find out next morning it's only 36psi.

The oils, which one member said a wrong comment. You can buy your own engine oil, and supply it to your dealer to use. It is completely acceptable and will not void your warranty in anyway. This has been confirmed by corporate themselves. Reason is, dealers overcharged their engine oil usually by 2x the normal price. Next is, the engine oil they use may be lousier than what you could buy yourself. Also to make sure they actually use your oil, request the empty bottles to be put in the back of your truck after the maintenance. There are many stories of mechanics taking your oil for their own use, and putting other stuff for your engine. Yes, at dealers.

I would recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol. And buy directly from the company themselves. I found one, which is sort of like a factory, I drive in and the guard was selling it, the Mobil 1. Cheaper price compared to Esso station or the "auto parts shop". Auto parts shop, I am afraid would carry fake engine oil too. And get the synthetic oil.

So you are saying one can buy any oil of their choosing and corporate themselves say they are OK with their technicians putting it into the vehicle and will not void the warranty if it all turns to poo (cause of the wrong oil)....... I hope you got that in writing.

If it's the same grade how can it be the 'wrong oil'? Or do dealers tell owners they can only use their supplied oil. For many years I supplied synthetic to the honda dealer and thy put it in. Nothing was ever said about it.

Where was "same grade" mentioned ?

But what is the same grade... not all 10w 40 (or whatever numbers you want to choose) oils are the same.

Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. I shouldn't have to repeat myself.

Customers ALL OVER THE WORLD, can buy their OWN engine oil and supply it to the dealer during maintenance AND it will NOT void warranty.

I wasn't going to give you proof about corporate, since I don't need to gain your credibility in this matter.

But food for you.

Here, one example, one of my cars from 5 years ago. Teana.

"

Dear Sir,

We would like to thank you for your valuable support and trust our product.

It the engine oil Mobil 1 Synthetic are same grade or higher nissan grade ( SAE and velocity)

the customer can use and warranty can cover. But oil filter and o ring recommend to use nissan only.

Warranty will cover if the customer bring that car to check at NISSAN service center every 10,000 km.

and change lubricate oil. If the customer change all lubricate oil from out side shop , the warranty will cancel.

Best Regards,

Customer Service

NISSAN MOTOR (THAILAND) CO.,LTD."

And culicine is correct. If you check your owner's manual correctly, each car will state the engine oil GRADE required for the specific engine type. The oils I use surpass that exceedingly. And I keep my cars usually 200,000-400,000km, and still running like new.

Spoonman, with regards to your question on "what grade", engine oils have a variety of grades used, be it API, SL, etc. As long as the engine oil you buy is of the same grade or better, you can use it without voiding your warranty. Hope this helps.

[Ace of Pop]

Just get the Bloody Things serviced,use their Oil and stop being clever, go sit Mom n Pops,chill out with a Leo.

[Greg Nixon]

I believe that some companies run the engines prior to installing them. They are tested differently cleaned differently. My Thai wife has the Mazda BT50 - it seems to be an excellent vehicle. It is 5 years old and has never let us down except one battery change which is quite standard .

Diesel engines can run 1.6 million kilometres but will the engine outlast the body ? I sometimes worry because my wife changes gears too soon around 1500 RPM and I believe these are high rev engines as the tach suggests a redline of 5000 RPM . I like to change gears about 3000 RPM. Is anyone aware why the effects of using low RPM has on engine life ?

I also tried to get my wife to downshift rather than use the brake but old habits die hard. I told her she would be paying for brake service.

[Spoonman]

Spoonman, with regards to your question on "what grade", engine oils have a variety of grades used, be it API, SL, etc. As long as the engine oil you buy is of the same grade or better, you can use it without voiding your warranty. Hope this helps.

The key words being of same grade or better.

Good luck wandering into you local somchai the oil man shop and asking for the following.

clear as mud aint it, much easier (for a lot of people) to just rock up to the dealership and tell em to change the oil.

[seedy]

Greg Nixon said :

Is anyone aware why the effects of using low RPM has on engine life ?

I also tried to get my wife to downshift rather than use the brake but old habits die hard. I told her she would be paying for brake service.

One of the worst things you can do is to run an engine at a low rpm. Best efficiency will be realized by operating at the torque peak - not max rpm.

Downshifting is also old school. Slow down using the brakes, then select the appropriate gear.

Lots easier - and cheaper - to replace brake pads/shoes than an engine or transmission.

Edited September 9, 2014 by seedy

[JacChang]

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Spoonman, with regards to your question on "what grade", engine oils have a variety of grades used, be it API, SL, etc. As long as the engine oil you buy is of the same grade or better, you can use it without voiding your warranty. Hope this helps.

The key words being of same grade or better.


Good luck wandering into you local somchai the oil man shop and asking for the following.






clear as mud aint it, much easier (for a lot of people) to just rock up to the dealership and tell em to change the oil.

It is clear, especially the second picture you provided. Not sure where the "difficulty" is. As per your own provided photo, it provides atleast 4 specifications to work on. WSS, SAE, ACEA, API. As long as your engine oil is of the same grade or better, warranty will not be voided.

Well if you keep changing your stance, there is nothing interesting in having a conversation with you.

1) You required clarification on engine oil usage other than the OEM type, and if it will void warranty. It has been explained to you that it won't.

2) Now you disregard everything and state "it is easy to just go to the dealer and have everything done".

Well no duh?! Doesn't take a genius to figure that out does it now. I am sure every single somchai who has a car knows that.

The point was, car owners can have a choice and make the wiser decision of purchasing their own engine oils which are CHEAPER by atleast half in price, and quality surpassing the one OEM provides. We know who the wiser ones are.

Of course, like you said, "just go to the dealer and use their stuff". Your choice, your loss, not mine. Next time just let us know earlier, so we don't waste time explaining to you when you pretended to care about the warranty being valid or not.

[Spoonman]

Iam not changing my stance at all. if you toast an engine because you put the incorrect oil into it your warranty will be void.My illustrations prove that you simply cannot grab any old bottle of 10w 40 and stick in it and as for buying oil.

I understand 100% what oil is to be used in my Ranger. When I rebuilt the engine I thought I would just grab the oil myself from one of the many local shops around here in Laem chabang. It proved to be extremely difficult task to get the correct grade of oil and infact took a few hours after visiting about 6 different places..... I even went into the Castrol centre and they could not supply the oil that they supply to ford.

I did eventually find the correct oil, it cost me more than just buying from Ford in the first place.

For those that either do not know about the correct oil to purchase or simply cannot be assed to drive around trying to find the correct oil it is 1000% easier just to take the vehicle to the dealership and have them do it...... are you too simple to even understand that ?

[Ace of Pop]

Only Smart Asses mess about and think they know better than the Factory, and there's a few of them posting here. Mazda heve all the correct Oil for Oilers and Benzine, this is getting about as childish as the dont like Tax Square clowns.Just do the Right Thing.

[JacChang]

Spoonman: "I would use what the manufacturer suggests atleast until the warranty period has expired. You toast an engine and they find oil in it that is not within their spec you'll be opening your wallet for the new engine, Not them."

Go ahead and open up your manual, let's have a surprise what it says. Pretty sure it allows "outside oil".

Corrected.

Spoonman: "So you are saying one can buy any oil of their choosing and corporate themselves say they are OK with their technicians putting it into the vehicle and will not void the warranty if it all turns to poo (cause of the wrong oil)....... I hope you got that in writing."

"I hope you got that in writing" = aka = I think you are bluffing and no one can choose their oil and corporate themselves didn't say okay, and the warranty will not be void.

Oh, but I do have proof, and have provided, and thus makes that complete sentence worthless?

Corrected 2.

Culicine: "If it's the same grade how can it be the 'wrong oil'? Or do dealers tell owners they can only use their supplied oil. For many years I supplied synthetic to the honda dealer and thy put it in. Nothing was ever said about it."

Spoonman: "Where was "same grade" mentioned ? But what is the same grade... not all 10w 40 (or whatever numbers you want to choose) oils are the same."

People who supply their own engine oils are usually the people who go the "extra mile". Who do their homework, and actually research what they would like to put in their vehicle. As per your quote, you do not compare 10w40 to other 10w40, that is not how you test the quality. There are specifications that the oil industry uses, which we could used to compare. And this information is readily available in your manual, you take that designation and you look up the engine oil to see if it matches or surpasses it. Usually they surpass it. Myself, I recommend Castrol or Mobil 1.

Spoonman: "Good luck wandering into you local somchai the oil man shop and asking for the following. clear as mud aint it, much easier (for a lot of people) to just rock up to the dealership and tell em to change the oil."

There is no luck required, it's a very simple task, that any male is cable of. It's what girls like to call shopping, can you handle it? Research which engine oil you feel is best for your car, then actually test it to see the difference. You do not leave it to the responsibility of the "somchai". Same with running a business, do the workers run it, or you run it? I know my choice. What's yours? Then the "clear as mud" comment, it is indeed clear. If your attempt was to show those 2 images in hopes of members viewing it as a huge scientific bizarre thing. I'm sorry to say, it's not. It's simple, those who deal with engine oils pick it up easily as 1+1. The specifications are clearly stated on those 2 pictures you have provided, and one can easily take those numbers to their mobil 1 or Castrol aisle and see which one would be appropriate for their cars.

Spoonman: "Iam not changing my stance at all. if you toast an engine because you put the incorrect oil into it your warranty will be void.My illustrations prove that you simply cannot grab any old bottle of 10w 40 and stick in it and as for buying oil. I understand 100% what oil is to be used in my Ranger. When I rebuilt the engine I thought I would just grab the oil myself from one of the many local shops around here in Laem chabang. It proved to be extremely difficult task to get the correct grade of oil and infact took a few hours after visiting about 6 different places..... I even went into the Castrol centre and they could not supply the oil that they supply to ford.
For those that either do not know about the correct oil to purchase or simply cannot be assed to drive around trying to find the correct oil it is 1000% easier just to take the vehicle to the dealership and have them do it...... are you too simple to even understand that ?"

Yes I am too simple to understand that, my brain is just smaller than yours.

As per your paragraph, nobody is putting in the incorrect oil and the warranty will not be void. Please stop giving falsified information. If the manufacturer's OWN words back my statement, why are you still ranting about false information? I am indeed quite surprised with your statements, I thought in this modern age now, most automobile enthusiasts would know this common knowledge by now. Back 10-20 years, things were different. Dealers would pressure customers into using only their OEM products, or a threat of warranty void would be given. Customers would have to go through lawsuits, which ended up with the manufacturer's having to pay compensation and an apology. However, we have since moved from those ages, now manufacturers openly state, owners can use their own oil as long as it meets or exceeds the specifications set by the manufacturer. Ask any mechanic next time you are at the dealer, you may learn something.

As for your sourcing problems, Laem chabang, I even have difficulties in Bangkok, where availability is definitely more than your area. After a week of searching everywhere, I succeeded, found the Mobil 1 company, purchased it through them, peace of mind for authenticity and cheaper prices than anywhere else. The point is, it can be done. And it must be in Thailand, oils can not be shipped internationally that I am aware of.

Spoonman: "For those that either do not know about the correct oil to purchase or simply cannot be assed to drive around trying to find the correct oil it is 1000% easier just to take the vehicle to the dealership and have them do it...... are you too simple to even understand that ?"

My apologies, I thought people actually wanted to learn something in forums. Everyone let's not know the correct oil, let's use the easiest way, I know many of you don't know this BUT I will tell you now. Please don't tell anyone. My advice is "TAKE YOUR CAR TO THE DEALER and DO WHAT THEY SAY!" I have spent years of my time to finally come up with this great advice, please don't forget!!

[Ace of Pop]

SM 0W-20 grade has been used in most Benzine Engines since 2011.

[Kwasaki]

SM 0W-20 grade has been used in most Benzine Engines since 2011.

Don't know why oils become such a discussion just use the same as OEM.

Here's a good read for the layman; http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

That'll oil will be good "Ace" when it goes well below freezing point in Thailand, 20W-etc is good for 0 degree's.

[bkkjames]

SM 0W-20 grade has been used in most Benzine Engines since 2011.

Don't know why oils become such a discussion just use the same as OEM.

Here's a good read for the layman; http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

That'll oil will be good "Ace" when it goes well below freezing point in Thailand, 20W-etc is good for 0 degree's.

Maybe Ace likes his Honda to run Super Hot

[Ace of Pop]

I should have said Toyota n Honda have used it in Benzine lump since 2011. or their Handbooks and Next Change Tags are printed wrong Its like Cat Piss compared to the treacle they use in Clonkers. You can safely put 20/50 in any knackered newish benzine engine.Then again it could be my glasses, so i pop into Honda for My Oil, and Mon Pops for a Beer..

[Kwasaki]

I should have said Toyota n Honda have used it in Benzine lump since 2011. or their Handbooks and Next Change Tags are printed wrong Its like Cat Piss compared to the treacle they use in Clonkers. You can safely put 20/50 in any knackered newish benzine engine.Then again it could be my glasses, so i pop into Honda for My Oil, and Mon Pops for a Beer..

City and Yaris 1.5 in the family no want 0W-20 in them in Thailand.

[Ace of Pop]

I will find the Old Honda Bottles left over from the Accord n Civic service.Sure you are right Kwakers .Ill post a pic of the Bottles later on..Im told Gas Cars need Treacle like a truck