Warning about Rizoma CNC style brake fluid reservoirs

[ttakata]

I've been pimping out my Suzuki Raider and bought a Rizoma copycat to put on my rear foot brake.

These things were apparently designed only for use on top of hand levers but the packaging and ads don't mention this.

A foot actuated lever generates far more pressure that can crack brittle clear plastic.

The real Rizoma one has clear plastic too so I would be wary of using that on the rear brake too.

Although there is a diaphram, the foot pressure must have totally compressed it and then the pressure had nowhere to go so it cracked the reservoir on the first ride.

A few more pumps and I think I could have had a complete loss of fluid pressure.

The tank was clear when new but the oxygen or humidiy must have discolored the fluid already.

I was thinking to get an all aluminum one but even those might blow out if the walls are thin.

So I ordered an OEM translucent (PET or polypropelene?) plastic reservoir for peace of mind.

[macknife]

Why not just go back to the original that came with the bike?

[ttakata]

I put on racing rearsets so the original location is gone.

The stock one is such a big diameter it will stick out and rub my leg.

I had to order a smaller one for an Exciter.

[Hili]

Buying crap getting crap. I don't think there would be a problem with the original ones as rizoma quality is great. But then why you should put a rizoma part on a suzuki raider?

[Shurup]

Buying crap getting crap. I don't think there would be a problem with the original ones as rizoma quality is great. But then why you should put a rizoma part on a suzuki raider?

Hahaha, exactly right, it's like putting $4000 rims on a $800 car.

[Shurup]

By the way it seems like you lack understanding how the breaks work or your explanations isn't clear. What I got is you're saying that the plastic glass may Crack when you apply breaks? FYI there's no pressure inside the holding reservoir, when you push a break you create hydraulic pressure inside the master cylinder, which draws fluid from the plastic holding reservoir, that pressure then is transferred through the break line to the caliper. The holding reservoir is what it is - a holding reservoir, no pressure there and if it cracks, it would be any other reason but the breaks application.

[ttakata]

Good points guys. I only paid 41k for this Raider but I am actually putting titanium bolts all over this which is silly but hobbies are never cheap. At least I know they will never rust and I can remove them since I used the anti seize.

I see what you are saying about the brake fluid operation, but then I am at a loss as to why I see cracks in the plastic since the bolts aren't too tight. I use torque wrenches on everything. I suppose maybe the expansion of the aluminum case cracked the plastic but I doubt it since the rubber diaphragm is between the lid and body.

I had a real Rizoma tank on the rear of a Brutale with no problems but it was the old round style with a tiny window. Anyway, you guys are adults mostly so do what you want but I won't be putting this style on the rear of a bike again.

[Shurup]

Break fluid is very very agrees I've and it will damage pain and plastics not made to be in contact with it, which maybe the case with this Chinese copy, which may also explain the plastic or fluid discoloration. There also is supposed to be a tiny breather hole that allows the air in and out when the fluid expands/contracts due to break fluid temperature fluctuations. If badly designed there might be no breather hole.

[Shurup]

And for the last, there must be no anti-seize on any bolt that is required to be torqued.

[ttakata]

Yes, I think this is just a piece of cheap Chinese junk; lesson learned and hope no one else goes down the same path.

For titanium you need antiseize if it goes into aluminum which is why I always torque my bolts now.

You should read up on this unless you want to never get the bolt out.

https://www.google.co.th/search?num=100&safe=off&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=965&q=titanium+anti+seize&oq=titanium+anti&gs_l=serp.1.1.0j0i20l2j0l7.18779.19692.0.22790.5.5.0.0.0.0.96.406.5.5.0....0...1c.1.64.serp..0.5.404.m_AhakR0cqc

Edited June 26, 2015 by ttakata

[Shurup]

Well regardless of what is going on with titanium+aluminum, if you have to put anti-seize to a titanium bolt that needs to be torqued (as per the service manual) then just don't use titanium there and no anti-seize. The rule is simple - if it needs to be torqued, no anti-seize.

[ttakata]

Well regardless of what is going on with titanium+aluminum, if you have to put anti-seize to a titanium bolt that needs to be torqued (as per the service manual) then just don't use titanium there and no anti-seize. The rule is simple - if it needs to be torqued, no anti-seize.

I think your advice is too simple.

Have you ever assembled an engine before?

There is engine assembly lube on many bolts because an engine needs to be serviced.

Every bolt on a bike from a factory is torqued whether it is dry, lubed, or uses threadlock.

Even the plastic screws for the body panels have torque settings otherwise the panels would crack if torqued to much.

Well the topic got me to learn some new stuff today.

Here is some good reading if you are using antiseize and reduced torque.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anti-seize-and-over-torquing-bolts.604971/page-2

http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/333994_LT6734.pdf

Edited June 26, 2015 by ttakata

[Shurup]

Never assembled an engine but worked on so much varios oilfield equipment that I couldn't even remember. Assembly grease isn't the same as anti-seize. But hey, it's your bike so up to you as Thai like to say.