Q-Con Water Absorption. How to correct?

[fang37]

We purchased the Q-Con render.

Whether he applied it correctly???

He did have previous experience with Q-Con when constructing shopping centres.

So far no problems but it is early days.

During the wet season, all has been good.

[cooked]

Start again. This is typical rising damp due to lack of a damp proof course, as I went to some trouble to explain in an earlier post. The rendering is irrelevant if water is rising inside the wall and soaking back out through the rendering. Bitumen paint will just contain the water within the wall, which may then penetrate to the inside where you don't want to use bitumen paint, it smells more than a bit. There are various solutions that are proposed for the problem all of which have some disadvantages (cost, efficiency or other).

Foto: rising damp at our place, painted over one year ago.

The french drain solution accompanied by water proofing of the lower part of the foundation is the only viable one, You'll have to find a system to cover the drainage but that is removable.

I first did domething like this 50 years ago and it is still working.

[fang37]

Why not contact a Q-Con consultant?

Provide photos & a detailed explanation of the problem/s.

[Sophon]

Why not contact a Q-Con consultant?

Provide photos & a detailed explanation of the problem/s.

The OP has already contacted and had a visit from a Q-Con consultant see posts #14 & 18.

Sophon

[Mike45]

I'm the OP and here we are a few years later and we still have the same problem. I had a French drain installed next to the outside walkway and it works well draining the entire side of the yard. The builder installed drains on the incorrectly pitched tiled outside area that is covered with a roof. 

I've still got the same problem but it appears less severe. The builder is coming back again to scrap and repaint like he has done every year. How do I solve this once and for all?

[kannot]

On 8/23/2015 at 8:38 PM, cooked said:

 

[kannot]

On 11/6/2015 at 1:25 PM, fang37 said:

We used the proper Q-Con cement. No problem.

So it depends on which type of cement is used?

Remedy?

Could also try putting an 8 inch high tile around the damp area if it doesnt get any higher although if  still damp it may come off later.

[cheeryble]

Surely a silicone injected damp proof treatment such as used in the UK for rising damp would work?

It looks hi tech but is pretty simple you gravity feed the liquid to a few holes at a time.

The holes are about 100 or 150mm apart.......check.

I think it would be easy to make up the nozzles and feed them from some cheap/free container. You could make it up from irrigation tubing very cheaply and maybe feed from one container sitting on a stool an appropriate height. So you just have to find the liquid which you may find here or if u have to ship maybe can get a powder and dissolve.

Then give the efflorescence a hot season to dry and repaint.

(presuming it will absorb into the AAC blocks which it should as the water did)

 

Actually I'm just having a house built of AAC and although the builder is conscientious and experienced

and the blocks are directly bedded on the concrete floor which is on the concrete beams I have concern about if there were water sitting against the wall.

Also, after all, where did YOUR rising damp come from? Hmmm

Looked at house drawing, don't see anything.

 

 

[cheeryble]

To add tot he last post, I can remember that rising damp was often held back from entering the house by rendering up to about waist height somewhat above the level the damp rose. It didn't get rid of the damp but stopped any affecting of the interior walls.

[kannot]

On 11/5/2015 at 8:48 AM, Sophon said:

This product seems to work by spreading out into the mortar layer, so it probably won't work on walls built with Q-Con AAC blocks since they don't have a mortar layer. If injected directly into the AAC blocks the cream could spread in all directions (and probably mostly downwards due to gravity), and it's unlikely it would create a functional barrier. That is assuming that the cream is able to penetrate the AAC blocks in the first case.

Sophon

If the blocks  have managed to absorb water then Id  reckon they would absorb the silicone in fact they say when applying it it goes best into damp walls, Id  still give it a go, it doesnt take  long to do, could be done in a  few  hours, Gravity may  pull it down but at some point it  will meet the less absorbent concrete footing where it  might just be enough to stop it.

Dont know if its available in Thailand though, its quite cheap in the UK

Id  also halve the length between drill holes to 5 cm so it could penetrate  easier.

Id  do all of that and see if it helped then tile over that bottom 6-7 inches

[cheeryble]

If the blocks  have managed to absorb water then Id  reckon they would absorb the silicone in fact they say when applying it it goes best into damp walls, Id  still give it a go, it doesnt take  long to do, could be done in a  few  hours, Gravity may  pull it down but at some point it  will meet the less absorbent concrete footing where it  might just be enough to stop it.

Dont know if its available in Thailand though, its quite cheap in the UK

Id  also halve the length between drill holes to 5 cm so it could penetrate  easier.

Id  do all of that and see if it helped then tile over that bottom 6-7 inches

 

Someone beat me to it?

The good news is I asked my builder about my own AAC walls he showed me a photo he had in fact covered all floor areas with a damp proof membrane before pouring and showed me the Lanko additive he puts in the rendering mortar.

To the OP......seems unlikely water could come up through a concrete beam which yr walls are built on. Do you se water sitting against the outside wallls on the ground. If yes you mit get away with chipping off and re-rendering the lower wall render with an appropriate additive.

 

Sent from my iPad using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

[sometimewoodworker]

AAC blocks are extremely poor at absorbing water, there is a video by a Singaporean who submerged red brick concrete block and AAC blocks for some period of time then cut them all open, the  concrete block was saturated, the red brick almost saturated, the AAC block had about 12 mm water penetration but was mostly dry.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zdmwwm-pXPY

[KiChakayan]

On 7/26/2015 at 9:05 PM, kamalabob2 said:

I recently sourced some house building materials for my wife who built a modest one bedroom, one bathroom two car garage on her village land. I had Mr. Pitichai of Q-Con provide technical advise to the relatives who had very little previous building experience with autoclaved areated AAC light weight wall blocks. The Buriram Builders Merchants who gave my wife the lowest price on 7.5 thick by 20 cm high by 60 cm long Q Con blocks also arranged technical advise from Q-Con staff. I believe the OP should contact the builders merchant store who provided the Q Con wall blocks and have a Q Con technical advisor go in person to his house in Thailand. The staff I spoke with in April 2015 of Q Con were polite and professional. The OP getting the Thai speaking technical advisor to give real solutions to him and the Thai House Building Contractor for the problem will be of genuine help.

I believe that Eyecatcher has brought up a valid observation: "I think most of these are rain splashes, heavy splashes, the same as you see around most house wall bases. The bottom of the wall is getting splashback and that rain has caused “cheaper” paint to blister.

How did water get in to blister it, well one reason could be the walls were rendered and not allowed to properly dry out before the painter came along; thus the moisture in the render was trapped."

Don't believe anything from Ruansangthai, they only talk...

[Mike45]

We have scraped, treated, primed and painted. Let's see if this works.