"Stain-proof exterior paint recommendations?"

[sagra]

Can someone recommend an exterior paint that is completely stain-proof and a source for it? My friend has a wood deck around a pool that is painted white and the paint gets stained from leaves and flowers that fall sit on the surface over night (or if my friend's is away for a few days). Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[CharlieH]

Title edited as requested.

[eyecatcher]

Sit down for a minute......ok listen white painted deck will not stay white painted deck for 5 days before staining discolouration bleaching organic staining and even mopping up dirt and dust.

For a stainproof deck the only thing i can think of is a multi coated clear polyeurethane varnish.

A stain proof paint forget it pretty sure thats an oxymoron.

[WinnieTheKhwai]

You do have paint that washes easily, is anti-mould, etc. With any paint choice I usually just get the most expensive one; it's worth it. So go to any place that sells a good selection of TOA (for example) paints and get whatever is the most expensive.

[JaseTheBass]

Dulux or Dulux

[bangmai]

There are several ways to protect your deck. Your problem will be completely removing the one, which was wrong. http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products

[Bill97]

There are several ways to protect your deck. Your problem will be completely removing the one, which was wrong. http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products

Where in Chiang Mai are those products sold?

[sagra]

There are several ways to protect your deck. Your problem will be completely removing the one, which was wrong. http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products

Thanks bangmai, but I checked thruogh the Thompson's site and saw no options for white paint or coating white paint.

[cheeryble]

The only white paint which will hold against all staining for time is two part epoxy.

Even that will need big cleaning.

It's expensive and needs care applying.

White gloss will do OK for a while but will not look perfect for too long.

[bangmai]

The problem is going to be getting rid of what is there...then you can use a stain, oil, or sealant method, but not on top of something that was improperly used. A deck made of pressure treated wood and properly stained/sealed will last approx. 20 years here. The best quality porch paint that works on wood, will start showing wear in two years, and will need to be repainted in five. There are many different situations. Painted decking around a pool is going to be a fail, though. You would want to use a fake wood, that has the color built in, and it's more expensive than real wood.

[Gulfsailor]

The only white paint which will hold against all staining for time is two part epoxy.

Even that will need big cleaning.

It's expensive and needs care applying.

White gloss will do OK for a while but will not look perfect for too long.

Epoxy is not suitable for outside if white as it rapidly yellows under UV. The only paint I know of is 2 part polyurethane. TOA Topguard or Jotun Hardtop. Both between 2000 and 2500 per 4L. Use a two part epoxy primer under it and at least a week later apply the polyurethane in multiple thin layers on top (about two hours in between layers). Don't walk on it for at least a week. That'll stay good in the sun for at least 10 years and can also handle the wear from walking on it.

[eyecatcher]

ok this is a tongue in cheek idea.................so don't go out and order, though it does the job.

it was cheerybles response giving me the idea.

white thermo plastic paint.; for those who don't know what it is, its the paint they use on the roads, carparks etc to delineate etc, often yellow also, but it contains a plastic base that is heated up before its applied, when cooled it goes solid is more or less impermeable and just needs a simple mopping every now and again.

Any way; it will be a nightmare getting the truck and 10 blokes up onto your decking.

Edited December 10, 2015 by eyecatcher

[Thorgal]

Choice should be based on :

- chemical environment : which products used for pool water + cleaning/maintenance products of the deck + pH of the water

- max temperature : in some regions can be relevant : some are designed for interior + UV resistance

- physical environment : paint should be water resistant

- type of wood + surface finish : you will have to use a wood conditioner before applying primer

Moreover: which method are you going to use to remove old paint. Your paint remover is important too, and your new paint 'could' react on it...

With those specs you can ask any DIY paint specialist and he will be able to help you.

I used Yotun for different projects, because you can rely on their industrial paints with higher specs if required.

You can also consider this if the paint price cycles are too high each time you have to re--paint in the future : composite plinth

Edited December 10, 2015 by Thorgal

[sagra]

Everyone who responded!...You guys are great! Thanks!!!! This forum is something!

[cheeryble]

The only white paint which will hold against all staining for time is two part epoxy.

Even that will need big cleaning.

It's expensive and needs care applying.

White gloss will do OK for a while but will not look perfect for too long.

Epoxy is not suitable for outside if white as it rapidly yellows under UV. The only paint I know of is 2 part polyurethane. TOA Topguard or Jotun Hardtop. Both between 2000 and 2500 per 4L. Use a two part epoxy primer under it and at least a week later apply the polyurethane in multiple thin layers on top (about two hours in between layers). Don't walk on it for at least a week. That'll stay good in the sun for at least 10 years and can also handle the wear from walking on it.

Willing to stand corrected I presumed from my yacht dwelling days the epoxy gloss would now have a UV additive after all two part deck paint must do isn't that epoxy rather than poly? (Though matt of course)

Also just thinking now....

Both Suzuki dealerships in CM have very expensive epoxy painted floors in pale green or grey I think.

Presumable at the ends where the large doors are open all day there would be colour problems eventually?

While we're here:

I have an enamel bath which wasn't set right but don't want to replace including ripping out tiles ....if I can will "make do".

The bottom is stained grimy looking with even a coule of small rusty marks.

I had someone mask off the offending rectangle couple of square feet or less, rub down as possible (difficult with enamel) and applies Hammerite white gloss (not the excellent stuff we used to use in silver to touch up rust marks on the boat which is a different animal strange solvent etc).

It looked good enough when done but soon discoloured and started to peel later (though well out of sun).

I've been told to use cellulose car spray at 55baht a can.

Any experience or observations anyone?

Obviously I would degrease etc.

Edited December 11, 2015 by cheeryble