Mandalay and Bagan - how long?

[Mister Fixit]

I live in Bangkok and so getting to Myanmar is not a problem, apart from only being able to fly into two airports, Mandalay and Yangon. I don't really want to go to Yangon, unless someone can suggest compelling reasns why it would be better than my thoughts below.

I'm retired, but my wife has a business and doesn't want to stay away for more than 6 or 7 days. I was considering a trip to Mandalay only but people have said there's not a lot there and a few days is enough. They suggested we really should also go to Bagan, so now I am wondering if any Myanmar experts can help me devise a trip.

I thought perhaps Mandalay for 2 days/nights and then take the river down to Bagan on day 3, stay a few days there, and take the bus back, spend a last night in Mandalay and fly back the next afternoon after lunch.

I know this is very broad, but suggestions as to what to do and see in both towns would be welcome, and anything else. Someone suggested a trip to the waterfall at Pyin Oo Lwin, but having read it up, I'm not sure my rickety old knees would survive the 45 - 60 minute walk uphill that is mentioned. I also have a trapped nerve in my left thigh which can be agony if stressed.

Also, it's completely the wrong direction for Bagan and it seems a waste of a day.

Also money. I have cards in £UK, $US and € - can I use them? Are Thai baht taken anywhere, as in Laos? Or should I change money into kyat when in Myanmar, or in Thailand before I leave?

Thoughts?

[onthemoon]

I can only reply about the money. I always use Myanmar Kyat (MYK) when in Myanmar. You can change at Mandalay airport, my guess is that the exchange rate is better than in Thailand.

The taxi ride from the airport to Mandalay town costs MYK 12,000 and takes almost an hour.

I haven't been to Bagan, but want to take the trip next time. Hence, I'll be following your topic.

[craigt3365]

When are you going? It's HOT now. And hazy. I went in late October. For me, Mandalay wasn't that interesting. Streets are a mess, trash is everywhere, hotels are a very poor value. There are a few temples, interesting to see. The walk up the hill was OK. Very nice view from on top at sunset. You can take a taxi there and they have escalators to get up.

I loved Bagan. What an amazing place. Crowded, but fantastic.

The boat from Mandalay to Bagan is great for the first hour. Incredibly boring for the next 10. The AC on the boat didn't work, so we sweated it out. Poor covering on the upper deck meant we got fried by the sun. At times, you could barely see the river banks. And for sure could rarely see any village. Just mile after mile of river banks! LOL

[Sealbash]

I recently lived in Yangon for a couple of years, and did some limited traveling around Myanmar. In my opinion, Mandalay does not have much to offer. Began was much better. Inya Lakes was also worth a two day visit. If it were me, I would fly into Yangon. There are enough things to see there to keep you entertained for a couple or a few days. Easy to fly to Bagan from Yangon.

For currency, USD is widely accepted in almost all tourist areas. ATMs are not that easy to find. Not all foreign ATM cards work. Not all hotels, restaurants accept credit cards. Basically, carrying USD is the easiest way to ensure you have sufficient cash. But the bills must be in near pristine condition.

[craigt3365]

I also enjoyed Inle Lake. Great to do the boat trip and tour the lake. I did find that ATMs are starting to appear everywhere. I had no problems finding a machine even when in small towns like Kyaukme! But yes, many places only accept USD and the bills have to be PERFECT!

[onthemoon]

I also enjoyed Inle Lake. Great to do the boat trip and tour the lake. I did find that ATMs are starting to appear everywhere. I had no problems finding a machine even when in small towns like Kyaukme! But yes, many places only accept USD and the bills have to be PERFECT!

By "many places only accept USD", do you mean they don't accept Kyat?

[craigt3365]

I also enjoyed Inle Lake. Great to do the boat trip and tour the lake. I did find that ATMs are starting to appear everywhere. I had no problems finding a machine even when in small towns like Kyaukme! But yes, many places only accept USD and the bills have to be PERFECT!

By "many places only accept USD", do you mean they don't accept Kyat?

It's becoming more rare, but yes, at times, only USD. Or charge card.

[phuketrichard]

just back 2 weeks ago. and was over in Dec as well; http://phuket.zenfolio.com/f125862719

I am often in an out of Mandalay and use it has a center for trips around the north,

3 days for Mandalay

2 days for town and walking around, 1 full day to see the nearby ancient cities ( rent a motorcycle for 8,000 kyat)

dont miss sunset at U bein bridge.

Shared taxi from airport to town 4,000 kyat/person 50 minutes

full taxi 12,000

I ONLY pay in Kyat on my trips for everything., change at the airport an change back excess kyat when u leave. Atms in most towns that tourist visit

Take the express boat down to Bagan, 8 hours or so, lunch included 90% tourist ( where as when i just did the Chindwin river 9 days saw NO TOURIST at all)

2 days in Bagan is plenty, get up early and dont miss the sunset, one day walking around town. Ebike 8,000 kyat/day is best way or $20 for the horse& cart

Train back to Mandalay upper class $2,90 an enjoyable ( yes takes a bit more than a bus but i live trains) 8 hours

Enjoy it, i am heading back in Oct to do a Motorcycle trip up into Chin State.

[craigt3365]

Excellent points, Richard! I forgot about the sights outside Mandalay! They were great. Thoroughly enjoyed my day long tour with car and driver. Not impressed with central Mandalay.

[Mister Fixit]

Many thanks everyone, especially Richard. Gives me something to think about and once I have digested all this information, I'll get back on.

HOWEVER, there's been a change of plans- I had thought of going in about May, but my no.2 son and wife are having their fit baby in July. We were going to go to the UK in about Sept/Oct for the christening, but now we've decoded to go around the time of the birth in July as my mum ill be 98 a few days after, and we'd like to see her for her birthday instead of a few months later.

Hence, we'll probably go to Mandalay/Bagan in October or November, maybe even next January for my birthday present. What's the weather like at that time of year? Cool? Wet? Boiling hot?

[craigt3365]

November to January would be perfect weather wise....though it is the peak time for tourists. Book your hotel rooms early!

[phuketrichard]

i went Dec 1-13th last year,

ONLY booked my hotel in Mandalay and Golden rock

Oct- mid nov no need to book

BUT it really depends on where ur going and what level accommodations you want when u get there, mid level places fill up but higher and lower ones don't

Mandalay has an oversupply of hotels and the newer ones and better ones have not made it into Lonely planet or on TA :-), I have learned NOT to stay in ones that are on TA or in LP

I am heading back this dec for a motorcycle trip;

[jphasia]

I have based for my job in Mandalay 3 years. I moved to Yangon in Last June.
I have been then all around Mandalay and the northem part of Myanmar (Mostly). I can hardly speak as a tourist and also not much on budget as I was working there with my own car.
I didn't try the boat trip to Bagan. I went to Bagan several times but with private car. It takes 3 to 4 hours from Mandalay to Bagan by car. I really like Bagan but as said above, 2 or 3 days are enough per trip.
Around Mandalay, I would suggest the village of Inwa, Mingun (the big bell on the other side of the river), Sagaing, Py Oo Lyin which is one hour drive from Mandalay in the mountain. Nice town with a very nice botanical garden.
All depend on the budget of course but find a car with driver/guide at reasonable price is not difficult in Mandalay.
Mandalay city itself in 2 days should be enough: Mandaly hill, the palace and of course the sunset in U Bein bridge.
Been in these area recently, I can confirm that ATM accepting international cards is easy. Payment in MMK or USD anywhere. THB not accepted and can't be change as far as I know.



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[samuijimmy]

Just got back, at some point I'll try a bit of a trip report!

 

In Bagan several "street vendors" where happy to take Thai baht... I guess they have friends in or going to Thailand to work.

[ballzafire]

When in Bagan, and weather permitting, I recommend getting a map of the place and renting a bicycle and do your tour that way.   Just start really early.  And, of course pack several bottles of drinking water.  You can also buy more at the shops in New Bagan, if you need to, when you reach it. 

 

For those who might find it useful, here's a zoomable copy of the map I used, so you can upload it to your smartphone to have handy:

 

 

Also, as mentioned before, plan your day early, especially if you want to snap some stunning, west-facing, morning photos of the landscape from atop the Bagan Viewing Tower.  From town, I made a beeline to the tower in order to get some early morning pictures (but still arrived a bit late for the best shots).  Absolutely fantastic, other-worldly view from up there early in the day!  Well worth the modest entry fee, too (should still be only USD 5):

 

 

 

Now, regarding Mandalay, the sights are outside the city center.  My interest was also browsing for antiques, so I hired a driver and found plenty of shops to visit.  Lots and lots of fantastic stuff!  Here's just one example of a shop that produces some of the most finely-detailed woodworking that you can find (and that the Burmese are known for):

 

 

And another shop (Soe Moe) selling quite a collection of 'antique' wooden Buddhas, not to mention some bronze pieces as well.  Here's just a small sampling of what they have along one wall:

 

 

But, that's not what I was really after.  After returning to town, my driver took me to what was probably one of the better shops for genuine antiques that I chanced upon -- Nan Myint.  Here's just a small sampling of what they had in one of their display cases (photo is zoomable):

 

 

Any collectors of rare, antique opium weights will no doubt recognize what is displayed here (made several purchases from that collection, myself, in fact...).  But even more can be found at the shops in Yangon.

 

That should be enough to whet your appetite for a visit to Myanmar.  Notes on my visit to Inle will have to wait for a later post.

 

Edited January 9, 2017 by ballzafire

[phuketrichard]

are u sure they are Antique weights? have not seen any real  affordable ones in complete sets in over 30 years

They do Very good copies nowadays

IN my many trips looking for good antiques in Burma have found very few and crazy prices

 

Unlike the above poster, i would strongly suggest NOT renting a bicycle, the distances are great andit gets dam hot,  Rent an ebike

Edited January 10, 2017 by phuketrichard

[samuijimmy]

Ha ha! Ebikes!!!, I was actually amazed to see such things.... Two out of four we rented died (two different days) and we had to get the rental place to come fetch us, actually one time brought a "new" bike, but that died before getting back to town!  We made them put rear view mirrors on them too! They had removed the peddles too, which did not help when there was loss of power!