Krabi/Khao Lak/Khao Sok - couple of words after short visit

[invisible999]

Hello folks,

I wrote up my impressions after visiting Phuket in the thread here. Shortly after visiting Phuket, we came back to Krabi. I wrote impressions in the same thread but was asked to post it here as well, which I am doing.

So it happens that within a month I and my wife travelled to Thailand twice. First, a month ago it was Phuket - we spent four days there next to Surin beach. On one of those days we did travel up to Khao Lak for a day trip and we decided to on next upcoming arrival to stay there. For sure, we won't be going back in Phuket due to the number of reasons which were outlined in the above mentioned thread.

We arrived at Krabi, got our rental car at Thai Rent a car (with additional insurance - US $84 for 4 days) and head on towards Khao Lak where we had booked Gerd and Noi hotel. Word of advice - google maps took us thru roads 4090/4020 which go thru bunch of hills with curvy roads. I was thinking that Highway 4 all the way would take the same time but without hills, but people familiar with the matter told me that it actually will be longer, especially due to the ongoing construction which we encountered on our way back. 4090/4020 roads are going thru hills and at one segment there are a lot of curves and turns. I'd say, I liked nature, but these curves might cause dizziness if you have passengers (especially small children) on back seat. I'd recommend to use straight Highway 4 instead.

Gerd and Noi's accommodation at Bang Niang was what we expected based on reviews - simple, quiet, provides most of the stuff you need for comfortable stay (yet, I'd be glad if they had a small kettle inside units for those who prefer to make their own tea/coffee) and affordable. As with most budget/mid range accommodation, you would be better if you book and pay with OTA (Agoda/expedia/etc) than at their website or on spot. In our case one night thru Agoda was $49, all taxes/fees included, but it did not include breakfast (see below). The property is right next to the beach, it is 1 min walking away.

Bang Niang's area was surprisingly good for food options and nightlife, we twice had excellent meal at Na Suang and dinner at Siam Restaurant. For breakfast I would not recommend to eat at hotel because there are better options available - Bistro Bang Niang has really good baguette sandwiches, for example. We had excellent massage at Parsap Massage which is close to the entrance of the street, across the market. I would definitely recommend them, despite the fact that they charge slightly above average prices.

For activities - hike at Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park (which is right next to Bang Niang, entrance is on top of the hill) following with relaxing and swimming at sandy beach is must, however make sure that you have at least minimum level of fitness.

Other nature places/waterfalls/beaches within 30-45 min drive from Bang Niang are plenty, but we get early one day and left for Khao Sok NP. It was highlight of our trip - hiking thru bamboo grass rainforest, swimming at river with curious fish which were not shy at all. Please note - on park's map furthest point of interest/waterfall is marked at 7km distance from the entrance and there are number others at distances of 3/4/5/6km. You might think it is not too far away. Not so - the trail is wide only first 3km but with lots of ups and downs. It ends at the ranger station/drinks stall and after that it is single person trailhead in the middle of jungle. If you plan walk all the way to the end, make sure that you arrive at the park before 10AM, have walking stick and at least 1L of water with you per person - round trip will take 8-9 hours.

On our last day went back to Khao Sok, but this time travelled further to Ratchaprabha Dam and Cheow Lan Lake. While the dam and facilities around left quite a good impression, not the same can be said about boat transportation options at the lake. We originally planned to get half day boat ride/tour, but after looking at prices, we decided against it. I was looking for a shorter/day trip option and could not find one. On the whiteboard are are listed destinations from the pier and minimum price I saw was 2100THB for a return trip. If you want to stay overnight and come back, prices are 1.5x/2x of that. Please add to that you need to pay 300THB per person per day for park visit (even if you stay inside the park), plus accommodation cost and it becomes quite expensive (to me) very quickly.

One word of advice: if you stay in Khao Lak/Bang Niang, credit cards there are accepted only at high end places, so you need to have adequate amount of cash. And if you plan to exchange to THB, don't do it there (Bang Niang) because there are four exchange booth but all of them have exactly the same (they even use the same printed sheet for rates) very bad exchange rates - 1USD for example with $10/$20 notes was 32.30THB, while market rate was 35.30. So make sure that you exchange your money somewhere else. In terms of credit card acceptance, I had no problem using my VISA at Esso and Shell gas stations, despite been told that they do not accept credit cards. They do. So it worth always to ask.

Money matters - Bangkok Bank charges whopping 200THB fee for ATM withdrawals. I had to take money because we run out of cash, fortunately for me, my bank returns ATM fees even without asking proof/slip (if you are interested, it is US Capital One Bank). Another note, when withdrawing money Bangkok Bank (and other banks as well) offer you to post withdrawal in your home currency. Don't do that.​ It will cause DCC (dynamic currency conversion) and you will pay 5-10% more. Always post withdrawals and credit card transactions in the original currency.

We arrived at Krabi Town (where we stayed just for one night before the return flight) earlier than we planned but it ended up that it was totally worth the effort. We stayed at Hop Inn, which is absolutely no frills place, but brand new and has everything one could want for $23/night accommodation. Just make sure that you ask a room on higher floor facing parking lot to avoid street noise - on the day we arrived someone was fixing motorcycle engine next door and and even with all doors/windows closed and ear plugs - we could hear it. Fortunately it stopped after 8PM so we could have undisrupted sleep, but if you plan to have a quiet time in your room during the day - probably you need to stay somewhere else.

We had nice stroll at Ao Nang beach followed with excelled dinner nearby. Krabi Town does deserve second look and it worth to spend couple of nights there. Prices are 1/3 of what you will get at Phuket - like Thai massage is 200-250THB vs 350-400 in Phuket. Holiday Inn had promo of 2h Thai massage for 800THB - I am quite sure that in Patong/Kata for the same type of resort at the same location you would be charged for at least 2000THB.

Food is priced accordingly - cheaper and tasty. My recommendation is to have seafood at potjawan seafood and for your breakfast go to Relax Coffee at waterfront.

Have not checked prices for transportation via taxi/boats, but expect taxi mafia manifesting itself at Krabi as well, but a little bit less exuberant prices.

So, at the summary - I might go back to Thailand, but this time I do know what to do and what not to:

- I will avoid to go in any island where you essentially are trapped and have nothing to do
- Car rental is essential. Thai Rent a Car so far was above expectations (which were at zero)
- Krabi is surprisingly not that bad and can (and should) be used as a home base for exploring that region
- If you want to see real Thailand, avoid places where tourists go
- Thailand has number of National Parks which are really good to visit, if you are nature lover
- Absolute minimum Thai language is required - to order food, tell them not to put extra chili, order full tank of gas, say 'thank you', 'sorry', 'hello/goodbye' and couple dozen of other useful phrases.
- If you have local connection it will greatly simplify your travel and make it cheaper as well.

[Seligne2]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

[invisible999]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

in the preceding month before the travel I spent no less 40 hours reading (as a primary source of information) - Wikivoyage, WikiTravel (BTW, they do have different contents), TripAdvisor, FlyerTalk and local HardwareZone forums. Then, travel guides - Lonely Planet and South-East Asia On Budget.

In general - I (and my wife even more) do not like unpleasant surprises, so I try to gather reliable information about the area I am going to visit first time. Yes, it requires good amount of time, but eventually pays off. Thanks to Google, in 2016 getting information is way easier, than for example in 1990...

Edited April 14, 2016 by invisible999

[Seligne2]

Good job. I ask because I wrote most of the WV content and never get any feedback as to whether people find it worthwhile.

[invisible999]

Good job. I ask because I wrote most of the WV content and never get any feedback as to whether people find it worthwhile.

Dude, thank you. Have not VW as a site,I and bunch of other people would spend way more time on research - VW and TA are #1 place I start my research with.

I do appreciate people like you - who are helping others don't expecting anything in return.

[grumpyoldman]

Good job. I ask because I wrote most of the WV content and never get any feedback as to whether people find it worthwhile.

Then I find it interesting and slightly ironic when people ask questions on this open forum they get responses like "here is a link" "I won't spend time with open ended questions"."direct your open ended questions to GOM". You do recall these postings yes?

Patting oneself on the back for travel writing, yet cannot write basic helpful responses here..........strange mate, mighty strange.

[taninthai]

Good job. I ask because I wrote most of the WV content and never get any feedback as to whether people find it worthwhile.

I've read it and find it to be a up and down goes on about how it's so expensive but then mentions Food is available 40-50 bht at food stalls,you make it out to be one of the most expensive places in Thailand which it really isn't,it's like all of Thailand it can be as cheap or expensive as you want it to be,you eat in some of the beachfront or ferang owned restaurants and yes it's expensive ,but move away from the beach to some of the what I call plastic table and chair restaurants and it's cheap prices,same as accommodation so much crammed into ao nang you can pay what you like from 200 bht a night up to proper 5 star western prices,you also mention boats to pp at 200 bht would love to know where that is as that's the cheapest I've heard in the 10 years I've been here.

For the traveller that's never visited before it's got some good info.but some of it is a bit to negative.

[laolover88]

What was the point of that post?

We went to Krabi to have a little stroll on Ao Nang Beach?

"My wife and I don't like surprises". You got a surprise at BKK bank, though.

When you come back my wife and I will, for a very small charge, arrange for you both to be spectacularly surprised. But without you apparently having a pulse we will certainly fail. Miaow.

Edited April 15, 2016 by laolover88

[Seligne2]

I think the point of his post was obvious: to share his experiences with others so that they can 1) avoid his mistakes, 2) emulate his successes. You have a problem with that?

Edited April 15, 2016 by Seligne2

[grumpyoldman]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

Proper map?

[Seligne2]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

Proper map?

Short of a Royal Thai Army topo map (try to find one), no way.

[grumpyoldman]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

Proper map?

Short of a Royal Thai Army topo map (try to find one), no way.

Travel writer aye?

[invisible999]

What was the point of that post?

We went to Krabi to have a little stroll on Ao Nang Beach?

"My wife and I don't like surprises". You got a surprise at BKK bank, though.

When you come back my wife and I will, for a very small charge, arrange for you both to be spectacularly surprised. But without you apparently having a pulse we will certainly fail. Miaow.

In terms of surprises, I am well aware that all banks charge hefty fees for when using foreign cards. That's the reason I travel with the card which returns fees imposed by the other bank.

I would be happy to know what you could offer. Our interests are in nature, places known by locals and not overrun by tourists, food, culture/historical places.

Thanks again.

[grumpyoldman]

"But without you apparently having a pulse we will certainly fail. Miaow." (which is his romanized "don't want").

Yea funny this thread invisible999, what you posted will be helpful to those looking, you've got this laolover88 making a go at you, as well as that other poster who in many other threads is hugely unhelpful. Remember when you first started asking questions about Phuket, you had a number of similar unhelpful people, and then a few of us that are happy to answer. Not sure why the Seligne types even post something like "I'll not answer open ended questions", bizarre............

"Short of a Royal Thai Army Topo Map there is nothing" Might want to tell the folks at Lonely Planet ! Cheers, GOM

[Razzler1973]

OP: I am shocked that you distinguish between Bang La On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak when discussing Khao Lak. All correctly by the way. May I ask how you came to be so conversant with the area?

Proper map?

Short of a Royal Thai Army topo map (try to find one), no way.

Travel writer aye?

Khao Lak Map.jpg

Nice map, where's the site where that is from, want to check it out and see it a bit bigger, cheers

[grumpyoldman]

This is an example of the "freebie maps" that you can get at most of the hotels, advert space pays for it (note the "Smile" that's why I liked this one). Found it ludicrous that a "self proclaimed travel writer" said there were no maps of Khao Lak other than Royal Thai Army. Bo*!ocks.

Razzler I just Googled Khao Lak Maps and dozens came up, just clicked on this one to make a point. Cheers mate, GOM

[Razzler1973]

Thanks, will look around, much appreciated

Might check it out so want to get an idea of the scope from one beach to the other and how it's laid out

[mike324]

nice write up invisible, got some pics to share along with it?

[invisible999]

nice write up invisible, got some pics to share along with it?

Took some with my phone - stopped using SLR cameras for number of years already. Once I will go thru them, will post links here