Live in Chaweng or Lamai

[KingKongOfThailand]

Hi Guys and Gals

 

I am planning to live on Samui for 3 months and would like some input were to live. I have narrowed it down to either Lamai or Chaweng.

As I understand both places have a good beach though perhaps Chaweng's is slightly better. 

My main issue is actually my budget which is 35.000 baht a month. I don't plan on going out every night but I'd like to get a few beers a couple times a week, perhaps eat out a few times a week too. I read that Chaweng is more expensive for general living costs, that could of been because the person was on vacation and has a biased view, visiting only touristy places, so I'd really like some input whether or not this is true. 

Would I have any issues renting an apartment for 3 months for ~7500 baht a month in either location?

Would I have any issues finding cheap eats in either place? 

What about bars and cafe's, what kind of prices am I looking at?

 

I realise I could look this up on Numbeo but those prices are not always correct.

 

I'm a single dude in my late 20's, like to go out a few times a week, not a party animal at all, just a nice bar, perhaps a fire show on the beach with a few beers is more than enough for me. Which place would you recommend for a guy like myself?

Taking my budget into account if it's even necessary.

[samuijimmy]

It might help by saying which months you are planning on coming... in lower season, might get you better rates for places to stay... especially if you pay in advance...

 

Food prices won't change much, although I think you'll generally find Lamai cheaper.... and Lamai beach areas are not that bad...

 

You might want to spend a couple of days in either area and see which suites you best and check out apartments etc.

[Crowes]

I wouldn't even entertain Chaweng. My idea of living somewhere does not involve being blasted with muay thai advertising in town or on the beach. It's just too much and not fun at all to be hounded 24/7 in Chaweng like that. I would look to Koh Phangan or Koh tao if the budget would allow.

[KingKongOfThailand]

35 minutes ago, samuijimmy said:

It might help by saying which months you are planning on coming... in lower season, might get you better rates for places to stay... especially if you pay in advance...

 

Food prices won't change much, although I think you'll generally find Lamai cheaper.... and Lamai beach areas are not that bad...

 

You might want to spend a couple of days in either area and see which suites you best and check out apartments etc.

Hi, thanks for replying. I plan on arriving mid to late June. Then stay for at least 3 months, depending if I like it I'll either stay or travel to another place. Yeah good idea about just checking out apartments. How should I do that btw? I usually find a realtor that shows me around, does it work the same in Samui, do you recommend any?

[KingKongOfThailand]

27 minutes ago, Crowes said:

I wouldn't even entertain Chaweng. My idea of living somewhere does not involve being blasted with muay thai advertising in town or on the beach. It's just too much and not fun at all to be hounded 24/7 in Chaweng like that. I would look to Koh Phangan or Koh tao if the budget would allow.

The muay thai advertising, how bad is that. I read a blog post from banker in the sun and he thought it added nicely to the overall ambiance. Have you been to KP or KT? Would my 35000 Baht budget work there too? I'm not too sure about Koh Tao from what I read it's quite small and other than great diving/snorkeling there's not much to do.

[Birdman]

Yes, can do on both places. The difference, however, is huge. You can't find that laid back 'backpacker feeling' like on South Lamai anywhere on Chaweng. On the other hand sand, swimming conditions, water clarity at South Chaweng can't be beaten anywhere on the island. During March to October. From November to February it can be impossible to swim on both beaches, except at the Norther parts.

 

The choice of cheap food places is much bigger on Chaweng than on Lamai. And so the places to live for any prices. However Chaweng has less and less that old laid back tropical island feeling. More and more a city feeling. Not so North- and South Lamai. At some places there time stand still.

 

Also while you have to share the beach on Chaweng with all kind of typical package tourists , on Lamai Beach there are more expats, former and young backpackers. and it is not so crowded during high season. etc etc etc. Like said before, difference is really huge. 

[samuijimmy]

July and August are generally busier months (European School holidays) .. it can put a squeeze on finding places... although there is always something around in all budget ranges .... Rental agencies tend to be more interested in renting more premium type places...  Fully furnished apartments are going to run more expensive than say some more basic resorts.

 

Member Crowes comment on Mauy thai advertising trucks can be found most places... suffice to say that Chawang is generally noisier and busier than other places...around Samui.

 

I would not discount staying on Koh Phangan as part of your trip, there are some areas on west and north west side, that might suite.....(more chilled than say Haad Rin especially at FMP time)  Koh Toa can be done on a day trip... as can be the Marine Park, which is beautiful and worth seeing.

If you lock yourself in to one place it does hinder moving around, which really is not that difficult..... don't overload yourself with too much stuff!

 

Others may have some suggestions as to renting ....  but can be done for about 9000.00 baht a month 300 baht a day ...(usually only with fan and not A/C) and up....)

 

 

[Birdman]

18 minutes ago, KingKongOfThailand said:

The muay thai advertising, how bad is that. I read a blog post from banker in the sun and he thought it added nicely to the overall ambiance. Have you been to KP or KT? Would my 35000 Baht budget work there too? I'm not too sure about Koh Tao from what I read it's quite small and other than great diving/snorkeling there's not much to do.

Muay Thai advertising is very bad only at the beach road, the main touristic road in South Thailand, apart from Patong, where you are not staying or eating. KT is 21 km². People over there are only over there for diving, snorkeling and beach. KPG is very laid back and very beautiful. Which means at the same time it lacks much more cheaper places for food and things than on Samui. At many beaches this is non-existent. 

[Crowes]

55 minutes ago, KingKongOfThailand said:

The muay thai advertising, how bad is that. I read a blog post from banker in the sun and he thought it added nicely to the overall ambiance. Have you been to KP or KT? Would my 35000 Baht budget work there too? I'm not too sure about Koh Tao from what I read it's quite small and other than great diving/snorkeling there's not much to do.

 

The Muay Thai advertising in Chaweng was so bad I had to cut my trip short and look for somewhere else to go. There's even a guy in a boat that goes down the beach blaring the advertising with a speaker. Just not my idea of a tropical paradise. I guess if you stayed at a resort and never left it would be fine, but once you go anywhere it sucks. If I was in your situation at your age, I would be in Koh Tao so fast it would make your head spin. It's the best place in the area with tons of backpacker chicks and decent nightlife. Check out the Koh Tao Pub Crawl on Facebook to see what goes on. As far as prices, food is not a concern if you eat local. Every menu at the resorts like Baan have thai dishes that are still incredibly cheap.. And what do you have to lose, you can always come back to Samui if you don't find what you want on the smaller islands.

Edited May 6, 2017 by Crowes

[Lone Ranger]

3 hours ago, Crowes said:

 

The Muay Thai advertising in Chaweng was so bad I had to cut my trip short and look for somewhere else to go. There's even a guy in a boat that goes down the beach blaring the advertising with a speaker. Just not my idea of a tropical paradise. I guess if you stayed at a resort and never left it would be fine, but once you go anywhere it sucks. If I was in your situation at your age, I would be in Koh Tao so fast it would make your head spin. It's the best place in the area with tons of backpacker chicks and decent nightlife. Check out the Koh Tao Pub Crawl on Facebook to see what goes on. As far as prices, food is not a concern if you eat local. Every menu at the resorts like Baan have thai dishes that are still incredibly cheap.. And what do you have to lose, you can always come back to Samui if you don't find what you want on the smaller islands.

Bophut best place on the island in my humble opinion so hire a jeep [not motorbike as 2nd deadliest place in world] & check it out.....

[khunPer]

A guy in his (late) 20'ies will probably have more fun in Chaweng, meeting pals of same age, than Lamai. But saying that, it all depend of life-style and preferences – and partly of budget...

 

Both Chaweng and Lamai beaches are sandy and Okay – apart from monsoon season from late October til mid January – but some waves both places, and especially part of Chaweng Beach can be crowded.

 

Chaweng Beach April 17th, 2017...

 

Lamai Beach (unfortunately a few years back, May 8th, 2009, don't have an up-to-date photo)...

 

Finding accommodation for 7,500 baht a month – more likely a small bungalow or a room, than an apartment – is possible both places, but don't expect too much luxury for that rent, most likely fan only, but hot water. Probably easier and better location – i.e. closer to beach a main street – in Lamai, than Chaweng. Especially in Lamai, you may be able to find an affordable temporary aprox 500 baht a day (or little less) room, when looking for long-term accommodation. A good idea will be to stay a few days either place, before choosing. Some of the affordable and good located accommodation are not available on Internet or Airbnb, you'll find them looking around. There may also be other attractive locations on Samui, so don't forget to take a look at the Northern beaches, Maenam and Bo Phut, and also check Bang Rak...

 

Both Chaweng and Lamai has numerous affordable, if not cheap (which is relative), restaurants; but often you need to look in the side streets, as main-street rent is so high now, that only more expensive restaurants can afford to stay there.

 

Bars and cafés are little relative, depending what you are looking for. A local sports-bar, where expat pals and long-timers meet and chat, and watch sport in TV, you can have a beer from 60 to 80 baht; looking at beer bars (i.e. lady bars) a beer will cost from 80 to 120 baht (or more, I'm not a regular); whilst more fancy places and brand name franchise you can pay several hundred baht for a beer, and more than 100 baht for coffee – it's all a questions of "location", the small local or a genuine hard rock star-brand...

 

Both places, Chaweng and Lami, has pro and cons. IMO Lamai seem more cozy, but also more like a typical Thai holiday destination, apart from the beach is not along a busy street, but behind resorts with a few public entrances – however, don't expect to live beach-front or beach side for 7,500 baht a month – I enjoyed spending time in Lamai because of it is small and quite cozy, and often attending the Saturday night muay thai (boxing) at the square.

 

Chaweng is the party place with young folks in their 20'ies and 30'ies; with disco's, trendy cafés, beach parties with fire shows, named International DJ's playing on the beach, multiple pubs and some beer bars. I prefer Chaweng for a night-in-the-town, because It's a different life, and not so typical Thai-holiday-destination, but rather a category of itself together with Haad Rin (Koh Phangan) and Phi-Phi. If young, I'll say a must experience...

 

But it's a questions a taste – and to a certain level also what one can afford, as trendy beach-parties require higher spending than a local pub – and staying three months in Lamai don't leave out the possibility of some night out in Chaweng...

[Birdman]

Bophut why the best? Sand is gritty, sea floor muddy, water murky, full with speed boats, some restaurants at FV belong to the best on the island, but also to the most expensive. 

I like Bophut for some restaurants and the view to KPG, but not for swimming. Tons of beaches in Greece are way better.

[mick01827]

Lamai every day of the week, a lot more relaxed but it's got plenty of good bars, both quiet and busy and chewang is only 15/20 minutes away always song thaews driving through the main street to hop on, plenty of good restaurants/street food at very good prices, it's low season in June so you'll get a cheap place to stay, @lamai resort is a nice place, not too expensive although you'll need a moped, there's a Welsh fella who rents out mopeds, I found him to be the cheapest, go the opposite way to chewang on the main road and he's at the top of the hill on the right hand side. 

Let me know if you want any information and I'll try and help 

[samuijimmy]

It's always a problem responding to these kinds of questions.,  I would say this his first trip to Samui, so very difficult to visualize what it is really like and what would actually suite the OP... 

 

That is why one should travel around a bit for a day or three and see what most fits the need and feels right to him ....  (just don't drink and drive!)

[GreasyFingers]

I have only lived/stayed in Lamai but Chaweng is much busier. If you rent something for a month or more at a time there are places that will give you a good discount to the nightly rate. I previously stayed at the Weekender Bungalows (not W resort or W villas), that is in central Lamai, can walk everywhere, 200 metres to the beach, 500 metres to the nite life centre. Not sure what their rates are now but will probably be there myself in July. But I am an old fart so prefer the quieter scene.

[notmyself]

Some very good and interesting posts thus far. I'm with Jim in that it can be very hard to make a choice for someone else because you just don't know what they like. Anyway.

 

Chaweng, as mentioned, has a big town feel to it while Lamai has more of a large village feel so that could be important? As for costs... I can't speak for Chaweng and not stayed there in many years but always seemed to me to be more expensive than Lamai on the whole but then that may be because I have more knowledge of the Lamai area and the people. Inland of the ring road you will find a plethora of places to stay but you won't find any of them on the 'net so need to visit yourself. In all honesty, if you are a good negotiator then you should be able to find something like this for 7k a month and only about 5 minutes from the centre of town by bike.

 

 

If you don't plan on going out much then you will need somewhere to cook for yourself and 7k will certainly give you that. I mostly eat at home first even if I am going out because I enjoy doing it and the ingredients are cheap as chips for the most part. I can make pretty much everything available in town for less money by doing it myself though that being said not always. I've a spare motorbike which is a good runner with 40k on the clock and I loan it out to a lady who has a restaurant in town. In return I get free food and 1.5 free beers per day. She offered one but I wanted two so we met in the middle. Sounds like a cool deal which it is except she's a rotten cook. Hmmm rotten is a bit hard so lets just say she is not going to win any awards. Five or so minutes to Makro (Lamai) one way and around the same to TescoLotus the other and only around 10 minutes to Hua Thanon where the small fishing boats dock and sell their catch.

 

As for a motorbike you would be better off just buying one and selling it before you go.. from the Welsh fella just over the brow of the hill and whose name I forget. If you rent then it's going to cost maybe 3k a month or 9k over three months. Buy one for 15k and then sell it before you go for 10k and you save 4k. You never know, I might buy it because motorbike rental paid for in kind is quite a lucrative business as is the barter system on the whole. For example, I give free wifi to the local Thais and in return I don't pay for laundry which equates to well over half of my internet bill (3bb - 963 Baht a month inc. tax)

 

Long time Thai partner of an English friend of mine has a bit of a side-line on finding places for people and is as honest as the day is long. I don't have her number on account of no having a phone myself but I can get it for you if you like. Good English and actually a helpful person with good intent who will work to get you a good price.  

 

 

[wump]

Stayed in both places. Give me Lamai any time of the day. Chaweng is an overpriced, loud, dirty, overcrowded backpacker ghetto. Okay for a night out once a month or so but definitely no place to live.

[ballzafire]

It's unanimous: Choice Lamai.

[notmyself]

2 minutes ago, ballzafire said:

It's unanimous: Choice Lamai.

 

lol. Given the choice between only two I would have to agree but Maenam is a good spot.

[KingKongOfThailand]

Just wanted to say a big thanks for all that replied, it really is helpful in deciding. Some really useful posts here. 

[KingKongOfThailand]

14 hours ago, Birdman said:

Yes, can do on both places. The difference, however, is huge. You can't find that laid back 'backpacker feeling' like on South Lamai anywhere on Chaweng. On the other hand sand, swimming conditions, water clarity at South Chaweng can't be beaten anywhere on the island. During March to October. From November to February it can be impossible to swim on both beaches, except at the Norther parts.

 

The choice of cheap food places is much bigger on Chaweng than on Lamai. And so the places to live for any prices. However Chaweng has less and less that old laid back tropical island feeling. More and more a city feeling. Not so North- and South Lamai. At some places there time stand still.

 

Also while you have to share the beach on Chaweng with all kind of typical package tourists , on Lamai Beach there are more expats, former and young backpackers. and it is not so crowded during high season. etc etc etc. Like said before, difference is really huge. 

Just to clarify, the food and rental prices are cheaper in Chaweng than Lamai? I really like this post btw, you give a good description of both places. That laid back vibe is what I really am looking for, yet not too quiet, I know a lot of people search for that hippie kind of super slow life, like the stories of 15 years ago in Thailand but frankly that's not just for me, right now. Escaping the West, I'd imagine even the most touristy of places will still feel like a laid back place to chill for a bit.

 

I think I have it narrowed down to South Chaweng and Lamai. Not sure which area of Lamai though. I don't want that really slow pace of life right now. I'd prefer a little hustle and bustle but not too much, if you get my drift. I definitely don't want to live right in the middle of the hustle, I'd much prefer to life somewhere much quieter but then have options to scooter around to places when I'm in the mood. 

[notmyself]

2 minutes ago, KingKongOfThailand said:

Just wanted to say a big thanks for all that replied, it really is helpful in deciding. Some really useful posts here. 

Helpful bunch on here but questions such as yours are really tough to answer. Additional information would help such as how many times have you been here and do you speak any Thai. My Thai is not great but it is very good with regard to numbers and by that I mean financial transactions. If I negotiate in Thai then there is no question I will get a far better deal and also knowledge of just how things work help.  

[notmyself]

4 minutes ago, KingKongOfThailand said:

I think I have it narrowed down to South Chaweng and Lamai. Not sure which area of Lamai though. I don't want that really slow pace of life right now. I'd prefer a little hustle and bustle but not too much, if you get my drift. I definitely don't want to live right in the middle of the hustle, I'd much prefer to life somewhere much quieter but then have options to scooter around to places when I'm in the mood. 

 

Maybe somewhere close to the old market because there is always something going on but not loud or in your face. People just going about their business. And from there it is only a five minute walk into town.

 

 

[wump]

In Lamai there is a long soi right next to the creek with cheap hotels and cheap restaurant food (40-50 Baht). Rent a bike and you'll be at the beach in 1 minute, at the Family Mart in 1 minute, at the best cocktail bar (50 Baht a Chang, 80 Baht a cocktail) in 1 minute, at the Thai food market in 3 minutes, at the Tesco Lotus Center in 4 Minutes and at the nightlife area with the boxing ring and food night market near the McDonald's in under 2 minutes. 

 

But you could really stay anywhere in Lamai... the main arean in between the one-way road and the highway is just about 1 square kilometer.

Edited May 6, 2017 by wump

[notmyself]

Somewhere around where the star is.

 

[Bigdogfarang]

I feel I should speak out in favour of chaweng given I have lived in both and definitely prefer chaweng especially as you are in your late 20s bare in mind most posters on here are 60 plus - lamai is full of German beer bars no nightclubs or anything you could call a nightclub the sea is not sheltered like at chaweng and I find too rough for swimming - I take the points about noise and overcrowding in chaweng - but live in the hills / by the lake or where I do in north chaweng rents are reasonable if you don't live right on beach road. - if you are in late 20s you want to be near chaweng not lamai in my opinion - beat course of action spend a week in both as other posters have suggested and see which you prefer 

[wump]

Then you'd always have to always cross the highway which at times can be a bit of a pain. To stay closer to the action is not that much more expensive... so probably better to stay somewhere in between the arrow and the dental clinic in the map.

[notmyself]

4 minutes ago, wump said:

In Lamai there is a long soi right next to the creek with cheap hotels and cheap restaurant food (40-50 Baht). Rent a bike and you'll be at the beach in 1 minute, at the Family Mart in 1 minute, at the best cocktail bar (50 Baht a Chang, 80 Baht a Cocktail), at the Tesco Lotus Center in 4 Minutes and at the nightlife area with the boxing ring and food night market near the McDonald's in under 2 minutes. 

 

True enough but be hard pushed to get a hotel for 7k a month these days. See one of the major reasons Lamai has a village feel is that it was unable to expand due to the hills at the rear of it.

[wump]

I agree, check both places. Chaweng was just too touristy for me and almost looks like Pattaya, except for the beach which was okay. I found Crystal Bay in Lamai still nicer though.

[wump]

2 minutes ago, notmyself said:

 

True enough but be hard pushed to get a hotel for 7k a month these days. See one of the major reasons Lamai has a village feel is that it was unable to expand due to the hills at the rear of it.

 

I paid 14k a month for a bungalow incl electric for short term rent. I spoke to quite a few (mostly German) guys and renting under 10k, especially if for 3 months, is definitely possible.

 

Regarding your last sentence: If find this is quite not the case. The area behind Lamai and the hills is huuuuge (like a 10-15 minute drive to the hills) and there is lots of room for expansion. It's just not that developed.

Edited May 6, 2017 by wump