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Help me design and build small house (please!)


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Posted
14 hours ago, cheeryble said:

 

That's heartening and useful info Woodworker......

though I wonder how would a clever man get the labour price reduced for AAC :)

Thought to self:

Given someone may be able to kick their way through 3 inch blocks, I wonder if there's a mesh that could be fixed to the blocks and under the render for strengthening purposes.

I've been watching 2 constructions near me, one using AAC and the other concrete blocks ...the AAC one is going about 3 times as fast as the one laying concrete blocks for about the same number of workers. So if paying your brickies by day rate that's where you save on labour.

And if your are worried about kicking through the AAC blocks, watch this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXwdfyrKMLg

 

Posted
1 hour ago, wayned said:

I have walk in closets in the bedrooms with places to hang clothes and shelves for folded clothes.  I did all of the work myself ans was  pressed for time so I built the shelves intending to go back and put in some drawers but that was 18 years ago and there's still no drawers.  I also have a walk-in pantry and another walk-in closet near the entrance door.  I took some pictures today and will try to download them tomorrow.

 

Just remember that doors take up a lot of space, usually twice the opening size since they have to swing flush against a wall when opened. A double door with two 90cm doors effectively takes up4 meters of wall space. In the US I used a couple of sliding pocket doors.  They slide into the adjoining wall so there is no wasted space.  I've not seen them here but reckon that I could build one if push came to shove. I'm American so all of my doors swing into the room including the bathroom and  outside doors.  The closet doors swing out.  I have security/screen doors that swing out on the outside doors and the screens on the windows are on the outside with security bars on the inside.  The security bars are hinged to allow access to the windows for cleaning,

 

I would hire the foreman in the picture as my main contractor!

Damn forgot about security bars. Actually might not be necessary grandma's house is very insecure and they don't worry, Of course they haven't read The Black Swan.

I like open shelving/hanging and if the weather is really damp one can put a fan on slow across it all.

Yeah that's the foreman saying get this bloody mess cleared up. As you can see he's ex-Army.

Posted
On ‎8‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 2:50 AM, cheeryble said:

ps: I forgot an important question:

 

10. What else should I start thinking or asking about?

 

pps: already run elec and water nearby

I've no comment regarding structures (wholly depends on your needs, means, preference, etc., etc.) but it might be wise to make sure your title is absolutely clean before you build anything so that you'll have the ability to sell if that should ever become necessary (some "family compounds" end up in very bitter fights, legal and otherwise).  For example, you mention your small parcel is the farthest from the road.....have you a legal easement for access to that road?  And do you have or need easements for utilities at all?  Best of luck.

Posted
4 hours ago, Mickmick said:

I've been watching 2 constructions near me, one using AAC and the other concrete blocks ...the AAC one is going about 3 times as fast as the one laying concrete blocks for about the same number of workers. So if paying your brickies by day rate that's where you save on labour.

And if your are worried about kicking through the AAC blocks, watch this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXwdfyrKMLg

 

That one is for a glue unavailable here, this one is better Earthquake simulation test

Posted

hi my friend all well and good building a house ,ask yourself one question is it mine will it ever be mine ,if the answer is no think twice and three times ,so many farangs have got burnt ,dont let the small head control the big head .

Posted
1 hour ago, lathamallika said:

hi my friend all well and good building a house ,ask yourself one question is it mine will it ever be mine ,if the answer is no think twice and three times ,so many farangs have got burnt ,dont let the small head control the big head .

The subject is about the design and building of a small house.

Posted
4 hours ago, CMBob said:

I've no comment regarding structures (wholly depends on your needs, means, preference, etc., etc.) but it might be wise to make sure your title is absolutely clean before you build anything so that you'll have the ability to sell if that should ever become necessary (some "family compounds" end up in very bitter fights, legal and otherwise).  For example, you mention your small parcel is the farthest from the road.....have you a legal easement for access to that road?  And do you have or need easements for utilities at all?  Best of luck.

The whole land has been recently divided into four, ours a larger piece of I think it was about 64x18m = 1150sqm

An entry road is allocated along the edge of the three other lots. You've reminded me to look at the pretty new chanoot, and I shall do, but it's in everyone's interest that the entry track is under a proper easement.

Small electricity poles running along the entry road line already.

Posted
4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

That one is for a glue unavailable here, this one is better Earthquake simulation test

 

Blimey that really held together.

Makes me wonder why I need concrete columns and don't just have the corners tied together.

Maybe it's just easier to fill in the gaps with blocks.

Posted
On 8/4/2017 at 1:37 PM, tomwct said:

I'm with your wife. Build up with parking under the house. I hate those bugs and snakes.

 

I agree, it's a lot smarter and wonder why many cannot understand something so easy.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, CMBob said:

10. What else should I start thinking or asking about?

As far as security bars, I didn't want them but my wife insisted.  We are the last house on a dirt road in corn and sugar cane fields.  I raised Golden retrievers and the security bars  and doors actually completed my "dog house, they kept the dogs inside  when it was required..

 

You should also be thinking about doors and cabinets.  My inside doors are stained hollow core doors and the outside doors are solid stained doors.  The bathroom doors ar louvered.  If I had to do it over again I would put a vinyl doers on the bathrooms and the under sink cabinets.  I've rehung the doors numerous times in the bathroom that my wife used as it was Typhoon Lek in there every time she took a shower.

 

My under sink bathroom cabinets are concrete block with louvered doors purchased in the frames and the lower kitchen cabinets are also block with solid doors purchased in the frames.  The cabinet tops in the bathroom are polished granite but the tops in the kitchen are tile.  I wanted granite but could see how I was going to transport the finished tops from the supplier some 250 kilometers away.  If I had to do it all over again I would have gone wit the granite...My kitchen doesn't have an "island", but a "peninsula" where the stove and oven is.  I built the upper cabinets myself and used the same doors as the bottom cabinets but removed them from the frames and reworked them.

 

You should also be looking at floor and bathroom tile that you and your wife can agree on.  Nothing at the local supplier was agreeable to both of us and in the end I bought it in Bangkok and it took four trips in my pickup to get it here as it "HEAVY"

 

Also how do you intend to close out your ceilings.  I went with a drop ceiling with 60cm x 60cm inserts with insulation batts on top.  If you go with a "sheetrock" or "slate" ceiling make sure that you have an access point to get into the attic.  With the drop ceiling you can just remove a panel, although I do have an access point in the carport as the ceiling there is "slate".

 

I started my house in Early September 1999 and moved in on 2 December 1999. and it is yet to be complete as I continue to make additions and changes .

 

I built a 55 square meter workshop next door and as soon as it was finished my FIL moved in, and out and back in but it's never been used as intended and a large gazebo in the front yard that was used as the village gathering place until my wife opened a small restaurant in the bus stop on the corner in the village.  I modified the bus stop with the approval of the village chief as even though all of the villages have bus stops, there are no buses.

 

I took out my frustrations with my general contractor everyday, self flagellation in front of the bathroom mirror!  Good luck!

Posted

I have not really read all the info above  -  but would give you my experience of design from designing my own house.

 

Built inside Kitchen and  shower/toilet.............apart from the toilet this is not really used .   built an extension which had a aerated kitchen, effectiveily an outside kitchen. Due to the heat and smells  -  better to keep this area from the main living area .  Also built an outside Toilet and wet room  with a large water tiled compartment to hold water   , which is used all the while and guests can use that toilet as well, rather than go into the main part of your house .

 

Guttering and storing the water  -   a friend of mine built a huge tank in the ground under his house to collect the water, however  I just have guttering and standing tanks...which is not really enough

 

although you may not want this  -   Thai's tend to build concrete drives/forecourts  as a complete block , however I got them to place wood inbetween like a cross , which then allows for expansion -  otherwise driving you car on the concrete etc - with no expansion gaps , will  crack the concrete

 

Thai's builders from where I am living do not tend to earth plugs sockets -   I had to request this specifically

 

One other small point  -   we had a guy , who arranged  a gang of builders -  with him getting all the supplies, however we did notice  he was adding his own % cut to the bills -   which might seem ok,  however  my wife did not think so, so we got the orders and then went and purchased the materials ourselves - took a bit of running  around.

 

and last  - check regularly (at least daily) especially when it is being built,  as stated they tend to build the way they know , so if it was not quite correct on 1 house it probably wont be correct on your house  !!!!!    most small changes required were around water flow, electric points  positioning   

 

    

 

Hope this may help from my own experiences     

 

regards

Richard  

Posted

You can avoid security bars if you are prepared to spend enough for laminated glass

E3304543.jpg.9c66b05d74d7680b1fe1d0207d175c4d.jpg

 

Above living room kitchen

under master bedroom, the triple windows are 3.3 metres x 1.4

 

E3304553.jpg.fb7c7a3e66917b5532bbe521e8c4582b.jpg

 

we went for laminated IGU's

Posted
I have not really read all the info above  -  but would give you my experience of design from designing my own house.
 
Built inside Kitchen and  shower/toilet.............apart from the toilet this is not really used .   built an extension which had a aerated kitchen, effectiveily an outside kitchen. Due to the heat and smells  -  better to keep this area from the main living area .  Also built an outside Toilet and wet room  with a large water tiled compartment to hold water   , which is used all the while and guests can use that toilet as well, rather than go into the main part of your house .
 
Guttering and storing the water  -   a friend of mine built a huge tank in the ground under his house to collect the water, however  I just have guttering and standing tanks...which is not really enough
 
although you may not want this  -   Thai's tend to build concrete drives/forecourts  as a complete block , however I got them to place wood inbetween like a cross , which then allows for expansion -  otherwise driving you car on the concrete etc - with no expansion gaps , will  crack the concrete
 
Thai's builders from where I am living do not tend to earth plugs sockets -   I had to request this specifically
 
One other small point  -   we had a guy , who arranged  a gang of builders -  with him getting all the supplies, however we did notice  he was adding his own % cut to the bills -   which might seem ok,  however  my wife did not think so, so we got the orders and then went and purchased the materials ourselves - took a bit of running  around.
 
and last  - check regularly (at least daily) especially when it is being built,  as stated they tend to build the way they know , so if it was not quite correct on 1 house it probably wont be correct on your house  !!!!!    most small changes required were around water flow, electric points  positioning   
 
    
 
Hope this may help from my own experiences     
 
regards
Richard  

Good points,ill just add when they lay cement outside get the non slip grit stuff added,choose the new non slip floor tiles.I scoot round like a Duck on Ice when its wet.!!.?


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Posted
9 hours ago, bberrythailand said:

 

I agree, it's a lot smarter and wonder why many cannot understand something so easy.

 

 

 

 

 

As we are in a village and are surrounded by neighbours land which is not the best kept I have been of the mind to "hide" behind my own tall (soon) hedge and only look out on what we can keep looking nice ourselves.The fact is though as we are living in grandma's which though substantial is a single storey house I've never really looked at the long view......including the hills in the distance...... it's not impossible that the view from a storey higher might more than compensate for tatty neighbours.

On double reflection Mum and I are both late sixties, and I have to be realistic about wheelchair access.

Posted (edited)
On August 8, 2017 at 4:11 AM, wayned said:

As far as security bars, I didn't want them but my wife insisted.  We are the last house on a dirt road in corn and sugar cane fields.  I raised Golden retrievers and the security bars  and doors actually completed my "dog house, they kept the dogs inside  when it was required..

 

You should also be thinking about doors and cabinets.  My inside doors are stained hollow core doors and the outside doors are solid stained doors.  The bathroom doors ar louvered.  If I had to do it over again I would put a vinyl doers on the bathrooms and the under sink cabinets.  I've rehung the doors numerous times in the bathroom that my wife used as it was Typhoon Lek in there every time she took a shower.

 

My under sink bathroom cabinets are concrete block with louvered doors purchased in the frames and the lower kitchen cabinets are also block with solid doors purchased in the frames.  The cabinet tops in the bathroom are polished granite but the tops in the kitchen are tile.  I wanted granite but could see how I was going to transport the finished tops from the supplier some 250 kilometers away.  If I had to do it all over again I would have gone wit the granite...My kitchen doesn't have an "island", but a "peninsula" where the stove and oven is.  I built the upper cabinets myself and used the same doors as the bottom cabinets but removed them from the frames and reworked them.

 

You should also be looking at floor and bathroom tile that you and your wife can agree on.  Nothing at the local supplier was agreeable to both of us and in the end I bought it in Bangkok and it took four trips in my pickup to get it here as it "HEAVY"

 

Also how do you intend to close out your ceilings.  I went with a drop ceiling with 60cm x 60cm inserts with insulation batts on top.  If you go with a "sheetrock" or "slate" ceiling make sure that you have an access point to get into the attic.  With the drop ceiling you can just remove a panel, although I do have an access point in the carport as the ceiling there is "slate".

 

I started my house in Early September 1999 and moved in on 2 December 1999. and it is yet to be complete as I continue to make additions and changes .

 

I built a 55 square meter workshop next door and as soon as it was finished my FIL moved in, and out and back in but it's never been used as intended and a large gazebo in the front yard that was used as the village gathering place until my wife opened a small restaurant in the bus stop on the corner in the village.  I modified the bus stop with the approval of the village chief as even though all of the villages have bus stops, there are no buses.

 

I took out my frustrations with my general contractor everyday, self flagellation in front of the bathroom mirror!  Good luck!

Thanks for the comments and pics Wayne, looks like you've got a cosy setup.

1. Point taken about care with wooden doors.

2. As we will be surrounded by neighbours land and grandma as guard dog at front, I'm going to pass on security bars. I'm a great believer in PIR floodlights which are very cheap.......if one adds a beeper to the light circuit no-one's going to hang around they'll go elsewhere to nick stuff.

3 Was thinking polished concrete floor but will probably go with large light rectified tiles they add a lot of size visually.

4. I think the ceiling will follow the roofline and simply be fitted direct to the rafters.....plasterboard inside, cement board outside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by cheeryble
Posted
On ‎8‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 1:37 PM, tomwct said:

I'm with your wife. Build up with parking under the house. I hate those bugs and snakes.

I've been scorpioned just getting out of the car, but yes, for step to stop them getting in the house- I had to stop going into the kitchen with the light off.

 

Two things

Gossip space under shelter for the wimminfolk

fan cooling through the roof space.

 

Internet- wifi, surely. However, MIL house was connected to neighbor by long wire.

Posted
On ‎8‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 5:05 PM, cheeryble said:

Thanks for the comments and pics Wayne, looks like you've got a cosy setup.

1. Point taken about care with wooden doors.

2. As we will be surrounded by neighbours land and grandma as guard dog at front, I'm going to pass on security bars. I'm a great believer in PIR floodlights which are very cheap.......if one adds a beeper to the light circuit no-one's going to hang around they'll go elsewhere to nick stuff.

3 Was thinking polished concrete floor but will probably go with large light rectified tiles they add a lot of size visually.

4. I think the ceiling will follow the roofline and simply be fitted direct to the rafters.....plasterboard inside, cement board outside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don't leave any gaps for the rats to get into the roof space. They take a long time to stop stinking.

 

We wuz burgled despite living next to several houses.

Posted

Hi

This thread is not finished been overloaded.

I would like to check our proposed plot and make sure everything's tickety boo regarding access past the neighboring 3 lots nearer the road.

They belong to relatives, recently passed on from grandma.....but who knows who the owner will be next year?

I have already seen there is nothin on the back of OUR chanoot regarding easement.....don't know abt the others.....and that although there are two markers in the ground for the road entrance they are

1. Not four meters apart as I'm told maybe 3.

2. The two markers are not on the chanoot in the appropriate position, only one.

3. The front lot next to the public road has a marker for the road, but mum says the other marker is the big concret electric pole......that's the corner of the lot with the neighbour........possible?

 

I want to bypass the family and go to inspect the neighboring chanoots at the LO. Can I do this?

Need anything?

 

Thx

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Thaivisa Connect

 

Posted

Yes you should be sure that you have legal access before you start anything.  I had a friend in Samui that bought a small plot of land for his  pregnant Thai wife and built a small house.  It was up a hill behind another plot with a house on it.  There was access to the property on a dirt road that ran up the side of the other house from the main road.  After the house was finished he was cleaning up and preparing to move in and the neighbor came up.  He asked him how he intended to get to the house, "by helicopter".  As it turned out there was no easement ever granted from the owner of the other lot.  He hired a lawyer and according to Thai law, the other owner only  had to give him access by foot and he would have to park and walk from the road.  In the end he never moved in and the house rotted away! To top it all off his wife booked and left him with a 10 month old baby!

Posted
Yes you should be sure that you have legal access before you start anything.  I had a friend in Samui that bought a small plot of land for his  pregnant Thai wife and built a small house.  It was up a hill behind another plot with a house on it.  There was access to the property on a dirt road that ran up the side of the other house from the main road.  After the house was finished he was cleaning up and preparing to move in and the neighbor came up.  He asked him how he intended to get to the house, "by helicopter".  As it turned out there was no easement ever granted from the owner of the other lot.  He hired a lawyer and according to Thai law, the other owner only  had to give him access by foot and he would have to park and walk from the road.  In the end he never moved in and the house rotted away! To top it all off his wife booked and left him with a 10 month old baby!

 

Wow I have read one gets access when landlocked (though may be a hassle) but surprised your friend was not allowed vehicular access.

Hope the baby's nice and white your friend will have girls queueing up to squeeze its cheek. Maybe they'll squeeze his cheeks too.....

 

ps out of interest vehicular access was granted Mums neighbour in anothér province in a hearing, think he already had motorbike access of his own.

 

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