Crossy

Don't. How is the cable attached to the rod? Generally, the connection should remain above ground or be in an earth pit to avoid corrosion reducing the effectiveness of your earth.

Please can you post a scan of your current bill and one you are comparing with? The only recent changes have been Ft (and an Ft rebate for low users). If "other costs" are doubling you may have a billing issue.

I don't know if the relief will be short lived, but our daily usage is heading back down towards our normal 30kWh after peaking at double that. As noted in an earlier post, our habits haven't altered, just the weather.

OK people. Enough! If you really, really want this thread re-opened PM myself or any on-line mod and make your case.

The brown thing top left is a Chang knife switch which looks like it's being used as a solar isolator, top right looks like an AC rated MCB, the + - markings confuse me somewhat but I suspect it's being used to connect to the mains. Bottom device looks like an energy meter to check your production. I also note a Schuko type plug rammed into a Thai outlet, so no earth continuity which with a transformerless inverter like that one could lead to a shock hazard from the panel connections.

For a bit of a reality check your 1kW system will generate about 3.6kWh of energy per day (dependent upon weather of course). Definitely worth having of course.

Generally yes, most inverters allow a degree of over-panelling provided you never exceed the maximum input voltage (Voc of your panels). A 600W/VA inverter would likely be OK with 700W or so of panels.

The UK isn't known for being cheap. A 1hr 15mins flight for 150 squid (6,300 Baht) per person would seem the right ball-park. https://www.wingly.io/en/flights/2011948

Hence my suggestion to contact Philips with your photos and a photo of the bulb packaging.

Bummer, I thought you might be able to get a replacement lamp out of IKEA. Do you still have the bulb packaging? Philips may be interested (or may not but an email to their customer service dept. costs nothing).

No reason not to believe you, but like others, I thought the tale may have been a little "enhanced". I take back all those thoughts immediately. Compensation will be paid in positive thoughts!

Wow! Just wow. And I thought there was some artistic licence involved! Did the bulb come from IKEA too??

Nigh on impossible these days. It's not all junk mind. We buy a lot of laser-cut stainless fabrications from a company called Shanghai Huaming Intelligent Terminal Equipment Co. Superb quality despite the company having a large sign outside that reads <read the initial letters>

Fit two in the back, two in the front!

I was surprised to find (from their website) that Philips still make and sell incandescent lamps. They do list their production locations none of which is in China, of course that doesn't mean anything here.

Do you have photos of the exploded lamp? A proper investigation needs photos ???? And, as others have asked, what's the IKEA catalogue number of the unit? (a link to the online catalogue would be nice) I have had incandescent lamps go bang on occasion, but very, very rarely.

Enough people!!

Single was released in November 1995.

About a 12.5% increase. I wish cleaning ours would help today, not even covering local load let alone getting anything into the batteries ????

My lady has encyclopaedic knowledge of the Roman Empire and Ancient Rome! She was a Thai-speaking tour guide in Rome (the one in Italy) as one of her many, many occupations whilst living there.

Have a look at the work of George Cove ???? https://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2021/10/how-to-build-a-low-tech-solar-panel.html

Just to keep all the info in one place: -

OK, a splash of reality. A 12,000 BTU A/C is known as "one ton" in some parts of the world because it produces the same cooling effect (if running at 100% duty cycle) as melting 1 ton of ice over 24 hours. Our 9,000 BTU unit would be 0.75 tons which would (using our 30% duty cycle) need 250kg of ice every 24 hours! The melting-ice coolers do work, but in reality, they only produce a stream of cooled air for a relatively short time.

Any particular reason not to open new accounts with either of these? It "should" be rather less hassle.

@MJCM has it right, the "correct" way to do this is number one do an energy audit. To start you off. A 9000BTU A/C (say 15m2 room) will run to 900W at full chat, if it's correctly sized for the room expect it to use about 0.3kWh per hour. Say 10 hours per day = 3kWh, that's already around 3 panel's worth. Of course, if you want to run at night then you're looking at that much storage. At 12V that's 250Ah of usable storage (so 500Ah of lead-acid). Give us an idea of just what you expect to be running and we can come up with some sensible suggestions. Do you want to be truly off-grid or will there be grid backup available for those dull days?