Crossy

That it has a CT suggests that it can export at least some energy. Could be a good buy at the price.

I've fixed the misquote (removed it) ???? I've seen the forum software do this in the past too, it gets confused somehow.

I'd go with the 800V unit then.

"Proper" electric fencers for cattle etc. use a battery or low voltage power supply and a unit akin to a vehicle ignition coil. They generate a high-voltage pulse every few seconds, so if you pee on one there's time to get going before you get a belt up the ... Ask me how I know https://www.lazada.co.th/products/220v-12-2-ac-dc-1-ac-i3503715927-s13333506536.html?

No problem with a one-way ticket if you have any type of visa ???? Don't forget your re-entry permit if you are on an extension of stay!

Get one of the Thai language proofs officially translated. I used my pink ID which has the address in Thai, no problem.

Rewind to 2012 for an idea of what levels of compensation they should expect:- The Central Administrative Court yesterday ordered the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) to pay Bt3.4 million in partial compensation to the parents of 12 victims of the New Year's 2009 Santika nightclub fire Read more:- https://www.nationthailand.com/in-focus/30193451

This popped up in my PV Magazine feed this morning. Ampt, a power electronic specialist based in Fort Collins, Colorado, has filed a lawsuit against SolarEdge for allegedly violating a series of their patents. According to Ampt, the violations at the heart of the issue are “power optimizers that contain high-efficiency power converters that both allow maximum power-point output, and use operational boundary conditions that continue producing power during conditions that might otherwise require the optimizer to be bypassed.” Image: Ampt Read more here https://www.pv-magazine.com/2022/08/10/ampt-lawsuit-asks-that-solaredge-remove-inverters-and-controllers-from-market/

Those arrestors won't save anything from a direct hit, it's induced surges from nearby strikes that you are protecting from. By the way, you can add one known lightning/solar "hit". After a particularly "busy" storm we awoke to a rather annoyed beeping from one of the inverters which was indicating "earth leakage". One of the DC arrestors had gone sufficiently leaky to trigger the protection, one has to assume it had done its job. How do you know you've not had any surges and have got away with it? Your inverters will also likely have at least some internal protection. These beasts are cheap insurance, but like all insurance it's up-2-u. EDIT It's worth noting that even in the UK (hardly the lightning capital of the world) surge suppression on the incoming supply is becoming de-rigeur, it's not mandated by the regulations, yet, (sparkies are supposed to do a risk-assessment).

Yeah, it's often a mystery how card details get out into the wild. A few months back I awoke to a lot of 2-factor authentication texts from Citi and an equal number of "please contact security" texts also from Citi. My Thai issued Citi card had also been used online in the US, of course it had failed 2-factor because I'd not responded to the texts (my phone lives on the dining table at night). It still meant I had to get a new card, with a new number ???? The banks are pretty good at spotting fraud these days, they know your spending habits and any "odd" transactions will raise flags, if you have the option of 2-factor authentication then turn it on.

What's the maximum solar input voltage of your inverter?? Just go over that (there will be internal protection anyway), I expect the 500V unit would do a fine job. 20-40kA would be fine on the panel inputs, it's not like you have massive cable runs picking up the crud. The 15-30% is just a guideline so you don't go too low. MOVs do wear, the trigger voltage gets a little lower each time they fire, so starting too low just means that you'll replace them sooner. We have 1000V units on our 600V inputs as the 800V units were out of stock. It's always worth installing suppression.

You match your DC suppressor voltage to the system voltage. I would go for a suppressor of system maximum voltage +15 to +30%. AC suppressors should be 275V working. Surge suppression is one of those things you don't need, until you do! With a hybrid inverter worth 45k Baht I'm happy spending a few k on surge suppression. And ours have definitely triggered to the point that they wore enough for the inverter to complain about earth leakage.

Yup, that should work. The worst that can happen is it won't. The amount etc should be filled automagically.

To pay via the app you enter the BB reference number as that's what links your Lazada transaction to the bank system (it was generated by the bank and sent to Lazada). If you put the wrong number the system will tell you anyway.

You'll probably find that the default settings are Solar => Battery => Grid (so you switch to grid when the batteries reach a specific state of charge). Did your meter actually run backwards (do check that the numbers also count down)?

I'm not sure "firebrand" is particularly appropriate language at this juncture

Yes, but do ensure you place breakers and fuses where the installation manual says.

Yup ^^^, and smart-phones just make things worse. Do not get me started on the motorcyclists and bicyclists! I've only actually hit one cyclist (going the wrong way, in the dark, no lights), but I've scared myself way too often coming up behind motorcycles in the dark, dressed all in black without even a functional reflector, bumbling along at 20kph in the centre of the lane. It's almost as if they want to be hit.

The shower type are intended to operate with the outlet open (shower head only), so if it all goes wrong and the heater boils it vents though the open head, so no need for a safety blow off in the heater to stop it blowing up, less $$$. Many will actually function just fine with a tap on the outlet, but they are missing that vital safety device.

I wouldn't go much over 90% of the maximum input voltage of the MPPT, 10 panels would be 455V nicely in the green. Definitely 500.5V on a max rated input of 500V would be classed as "unwise", it might be OK or it might go fzzzt on a cool morning when the panels are generating just a smidge more oomph. The problem is the panels come up to voltage very quickly when it gets light but there's not much energy available so the inverter doesn't do much leaving the full Voc on the inputs.

Noooooo! RIP Sandy ????

OK 4mm2 is good for a 32A (stretch to 40A) breaker so flat out 7kW or so. Your 12000 BTU A/C will pull about 1,200W or 5.5A when at full chat. Assuming there's a good splice (crimped, not just twist and tape) you could safely hang a 6kW water heater on there with no issues. NOTE:- Although 32A is over-size for 2.5mm2 cable there's no possibility of overload as it has a fixed load on the end. UK wiring regs would permit provided a short at the end of the 2.5 would open the breaker (it will be fine unless that's a loooong bit of 2.5)

You could just hook both to the A/C line, the breaker, if appropriately sized of course, would protect the cable. I'd actually lay odds that it would never actually open even with both on together. Not really good practice but ... What size cable and breaker go to the A/C?

Yeah, they are a sort of local MPPT. I have zero experience of the beasts so can't really comment on just how well they work.

Yeah, they go under the panel, you need one per panel ???? Although I understand that you only need to put them on panels that get shaded ???? If you have space it's cheaper to add more panels.