Crossy

We have a mid-price Mazuma (a known brand), 3 stages (particulate, carbon, resin) + RO + finishing carbon (no UV). I think the latest version is about 8k Baht. Never replaced the RO membrane, been going 10 years. A full set of genuine Mazuma filters (not including the RO membrane) is about 1,500 Baht, off brand ones can be much cheaper. I change the filters when Madam says the water tastes "bad" (I can't tell any difference), I just replace the carbon and particulate, our water isn't "hard" so I don't bother with the resin unless it's on offer with the others. In reality the filters get swapped out once a year or so. We have a whole-house crunchy-bits filter which catches the big particles before the water enters our storage tank, I change that when the tank becomes slow to fill, it's usually the colour of very stewed tea by then.

The RO membranes do have a long life, it's the particulate / carbon / resin combined filter that needs regular replacement, and of course you can't just replace one element if, say, the particulate filter gets clogged. It's all in a nice compact box if that's what you like, but it doesn't seem to do anything that a 4000 Baht Mazuma or whatever does.

The AUT3234 is not RO. The AUT2015 is RO, not sure from the data if it has a built in tank or what. The AUT7000 is RO, it has a built in 8L tank with UV. I would look very carefully at the cost of the replacement filters, they are non-standard so you are at the mercy of Philips to keep making and supplying them.

New tube, new ballast, new starter and it won't ignite = low supply voltage (actually measure it at the fitting, you can't guess here) or a wiring issue.

Low supply voltage? Do try an electronic ballast, they are dead cheap and extend the life of your tubes too ????

What size (Watts) inverter, are you looking for grid-tie, off-grid or hybrid? 250W panels are pretty small these days, you get better value with the larger panels. Prices are a bit high at present, covid etc etc, a Sunergy 410W mono is 5,190 retail at Global House. Lazada suppliers are cheaper but often are nil-stock. https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2012110639336

When you say "flash, flash, flash" what do you actually mean? Did you check that the switch isn't in the neutral?? Have you verified that your supply voltage isn't low? Did you try an electronic ballast, that should actually save even more $$$ and mitigate a low supply voltage. The rest of the universe is switching to LED lighting, which uses even less energy than fluorescent ????

Maybe??? ⚡⚡⚡

Ah! We weren't directly involved with the UPS and DG itself, we were providing the load (the OCC kit). This was a new install, the genset hadn't been run since it was installed maybe 18 months earlier and nobody had bothered either running the beast or turning on the battery maintainer unit (I'm assuming the designer included the maintainer as he knew exactly how often the DG would be test run). As is often the case everyone assumed someone else was doing it "not my job"! It wasn't in Thailand, but it was in another member of ASEAN.

Some years ago we were doing a "final test" on a much larger UPS system than the OP is considering (it ran an OCC - Operations Control Centre). For the test the UPS was supposed to run for two hours and then fire up a diesel genset (normally the DG would start within 2 minutes) but this was a UPS run-time test. Two hours on load came, and went, finally after just over 3 hours the "low battery" indicator came on and the start signal went to the diesel, followed by "arugh, arugh, arugh" from the genset. Flat battery! Panic then ensued to get the main supply back on before the UPS did actually run out of battery. All was well and someone turned on the DG's battery maintainer!

At 5.30 AM on a Saturday it's tea for me, although I do suspect some members would still be in the pub if it was open ????

I understand that the blue, brown, green/yellow colours are "the new normal" for Thailand, but, TiT ...

I'll fetch my coat now ..... Running very fast indeed!!!!!! The actual ""na, na na, na ..." bit is right at the end. Or the really real one!

Nice one ???? AS3000 is rather more strict than the Thai regs so following it should be fine. Otherwise this PEA document is also worth looking at. Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf The most important difference is the local implementation of MEN by routing the incoming neutral via the ground bar. You must do it this way to pass your MEA/PEA inspection for a permanent supply. The relevant diagram from the PEA guide with my translations.

Went round it when we lived in Belgium, we were going to have a ride on the Transrapid maglev test track but they managed to crash that. My BMW 525 was hopelessly outclassed (as was my driving) but it was enormous fun, the whole point of course.

I just want Liz to win so I can say "Tories turn to Truss for support". Fetching my coat

I would do this:- Electric hob/cooktop - own circuit (size according to the instructions). Built-in oven - own circuit or put it on the circuit with the hob if you have one Water heater - own circuit A/C - own circuit Then at least two outlet circuits for your portable appliances plus one for your fridge / freezer. The freezer circuit should be separate from your RCD/RCBO protection so if you get a trip whilst away you don't return to a non-frozen freezer. Outlet circuits should be in 2.5mm2 cable on 20A breakers, radial circuits only, no UK style ring-finals please. You can never have too many outlets! There is no limit to how many outlets per circuit so long as your total load doesn't go over 20A.

Not what, who https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabine_Schmitz The circuit is the Nürburgring, and yes you can pay to go round it. She was probably most famous in the UK for this:-

Phew, missed this ...

I've had to buy these and 10mm combination spanners by the bag due to contractors "losing" them.