Crossy

How do you expect glass fuses to protect your cameras from over voltage? I'm really not sure what your objection is to the auto-resetting PTC fuses. As I noted in an earlier post you could use 2 or 3 of the outputs in parallel to drive the XVR the PTC fuses will ensure that the current is shared equally by the outputs , or you could replace one of the PTC fuses by a 2.5A one. SMPS's really don't tend to fail over-voltage, they tend to fail no-output.

Yeah ^^^, just checked on the website, the vehicle reg is no longer in the profile. It's a loooong time since we got ours, we were definitely cautioned not to move it between cars on pain of death.

Yeah, we signed up at one of the offices. Once you've got it working you can top-up online, certainly the SCB banking app has a specific EasyPass option so dead easy! You're not supposed to use one unit for multiple vehicles but our original unit is still registered to the pickup from 2005, never any issues.

From the minimal detail available I would suggest the beast really is intended to supply 18 "1A" cameras, it's got a decent heatsink, fan and a 30A relay. Item 7 in that list is confusing as heck, I completely understand your worries, and what is Item 9 on about? Something that it's important to understand is the purpose of the fuses. They provide over-current protection in case of a short in your wiring, without them the power supply would quite happily shove >20A down your Cat-5 which it won't like, causing heating and potentially a fire. The fuses provide no over-voltage protection, the voltage rating is simply the maximum voltage they are rated to operate at (look at your average 20mm glass fuse, 250V even on the 12V side of the supply). Having the fuses also means that a short in one camera supply would leave the others unaffected and operating. If the PSU fails in a way that bangs out 24V, farewell cameras. One would hope that the PSU is designed in a way that would prevent that (in reality they usually end up with the driver devices going pop resulting in zero output voltage).

72V is the maximum the fuses can withstand? I'm not sure of your thought processes here! If you want more than 10A then find a unit that can supply more than 10A. Why not employ a professional contractor to design and install your TV system??

Why replace something that is designed for the job? I'm sure the box you have will do the job you need just fine (no warranty implied or inferred). To be honest I really can't help thinking that you are over-thinking your problem. Even flat-out downhill with the wind behind them your 6 x 1A cameras and 1 x 2A XVR are only going to pull 8A (in reality they will likely be pulling rather less) so does it actually matter if your box can only supply 10A?

They are rated at 1.1A 72V max. https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_72r_datasheet.pdf.pdf It's important to understand that these chaps are not actually fuses or breakers, they are current limiting devices (when they get hot their resistance increases thus limiting the current). If one output won't power your NVR there's nothing to stop you putting two (or even three) outputs in parallel, the PTCs will ensure that the current is shared equally.

Yeah, the round yellow chaps are PT "fuses". Rather than try to interpret the Chinglish spec. (which might make sense when we know what the fuses actually are) in the manual it's better to research the markings on the devices themselves. How are they marked, are they all the same?

1A is probably the max charging current, leave alone, it's working ????

Can't say by looking, if it switches over instantly (like I would expect) then it's evidently got some rather smarter electronics than the other unit which seems from the description to think about it for a while.

Yeah ^^^, we rarely see any "bin-rummagers" other than the bin chaps themselves, small village probably too far out of town for them to bother.

Madam already sorts out:- Aluminium cans Glass Paper / cardboard Occasional lead-acid batteries (I'm using far fewer now, lithium is my friend) These go to family who can sell them for a few $$$ Veggie waste (including paper/cardboard that's got wet) - goes on the compost heap or into the chooks to be converted into eggs. What's left goes out for the bin chaps.

The CCTV clearly shows the pole jumping into the path of the truck. Police suggest suicide.

My wife and my step-son got it in one. Step grand-daughter was waaaayyy out!

As noted, if you want it back in the interim, just ask! Of course you will incur further EMS fees.

I'll be happy if it's 2 weeks. You can get your existing PP back if you ask for it, but you need to send it again for them to get your new one.

I asked Darren today, he said it was around 6 weeks but ...

He doesn't want Time of Use he wants an "Export" meter. Other members have reported, er, "difficulties". @Thaifish I'm assuming zero movement on getting your export meter. If he has a conventional disc type meter it will probably run backwards when exporting, so long as he doesn't go totally negative and (important) the meter reader doesn't see it going backwards, then just do as many others do and enjoy using the grid as your "battery". Since this is really about solar I'll move to Alternative Energy.

Although the first year was metal bashing! Now which of this dicey looking lot was Crossy?

I did 'lectronics, 2nd year project, medium wave superhet radio. First thing everyone did when it was complete? Convert it into a transmitter of course

Yeah. If doing it by post they would like to keep your PP until the new one arrives. If that's a problem then Darren will send it back for the EMS fee and of course you have to send it back to them to get the new PP. It's also worth noting that, whilst I and others have had no issues communicating with KV, I've been in conversation with another member who is having exactly the opposite experience with some less than professional exchanges. So it does seem that the bad experiences happen too. So if there are alternatives available who can do by post it's worth posting here.

At least you know that the pump still works. "Should" be easy now (famous last words). I assume you are using the same capacitor in the new controller as in the Frog?