Crossy

That's one of those Up2U questions. The wire type would be less fussy to install.

Just done - As others have noted a piece of cake ????

10.6kWp of panels. Figures are from my metering at the distribution board.

The + out on the panels should be the opposite sex to the + in on the combiner. The + out on the combiner should be the opposite sex to the + in on the combiner. For clarity. This chap is :- + out from the panel - in on the combiner + out on the combiner This chap is:- - out from the panel + in on the combiner - out on the combiner

February is a short month, here are the numbers for each month since we've had the full set of panels.

I have many friends in India having worked there for a number of years, they and their families are all 100% nice people (and two are members of Bangalore Cricket Club so I can watch T20 and have a beer and a bite which the cheap-seats can't). BUT Their tourist brethren are another animal altogether!! Whilst working in Singapore I stayed at a mid-range hotel which had Indian coach tourists, they were waiting like gannets (or Chinese tourists) for the brekkie buffet to open, literally seconds after opening it was like WW3 had started. I was lucky and as a regular long-stayer I was invited to the "executive" dining area upstairs (got free laundry too).

Yeah, I knew it would be easy, but TiT and the website makes no mention that I can see of the "just turn up" option. Really daft question - All my documentation is in Thai, I'm assuming that will be OK (You never know in this world).

Yup, we have a full service counter. I've used it many times to return Lazada stuff with pre-printed labels, just never initiated the shipment.

The thread title says it all really. I need to send a one-off package. I'm usually pretty good with Thai websites but I really can't make head or tail of the Kerry site in Thai or in English. How to go about it??

It was a while ago so details are a bit hazy and the rules may well have changed. We went to SCB (where we have banked for a loooong time), they offered a "construction loan" of about 60% of the surveyed land value. Unfortunately by the time they had faffed around sorting out all the paperwork the house was completed (using my $$$ of course), so they converted to a 15 year mortgage. Later we added to the mortgage for "renovations", SCB called Madam and asked if we would like to borrow more! Again a million bits of paper etc etc. We kept the same end date for the mortgage and they re-surveyed the house (OK came and drank coffee and gassed with Madam). My lady works (she's my PA) so she has her own income but my income was also "taken into account". Be prepared for the long haul!

My card lives in a leather ID holder (neck dangler) and it works pretty reliably if you are within 10mm or so but in reality I do touch the plate like most others do. I also use a lot of hand sanitiser, if I see free sanitiser - sanitise!

Yeah, the fare is deducted on exit so a mis-read isn't an issue at either end. You shouldn't be having that many mis-reads though. Is the card in your wallet or a holder of some sort? Other cards (MRT card for example) or metal can interfere with the operation. It might be worth asking for a replacement (go to the service centre, the ticket office can do it but they are very reticent to).

Great. You had me worried for a bit then (many members know who I work for) and if we are losing customer's $$$ then there are big issues

https://rabbit.co.th/en/rabbit-service-center/

Do you have your card linked to Rabbit Line-Pay? If not you can see the history (last 10 transactions) the newer BTS ticket machines (the big ones). For more history they have to do an enquiry, which whilst it actually takes a few seconds takes ruddy ages to come through. If you are linked to Line-Pay then you should be able to see what's what on the Line App. EDIT I believe there's a Rabbit service desk at Siam BTS (take the ID you used to register your card).

There's a handy-dandy website and App to help you size and point your antenna. Website https://dttservicearea.nbtc.go.th/webapp Put your GPS coordinates into the search box top left and the app will point you to the best transmitter.

It's about 40mm from the top of the roof "hump" to the underside of the panel surround. This is my prototype mount. Panels sit directly on the top piece.

The "real" mounting kits put 2-3 inches (50-75mm) between the panels and the roof. Some air flow is good, it helps keep the panels and roof cool, but too big a space could cause issues in a big wind.

Yeah, I realised that ???? It's just fine wired as it is. Do note that since you will be sending energy out that you should set the upper voltage limit rather higher than you would usually, say around 240V as a start point.

I'd be more worried that I don't see any setting for lithium batteries (unless I missed it).

That is how I would interpret the description in the manual. They only way to find out if it really does work like that would be to test it.

It looks OK. Don't worry about the power monitor thingy, with a grid-tie inverter the energy goes both ways anyway. Do check the sex of your MC4 in and out connectors, it's not totally clear in the photo but the IN end should be the opposite sex to the OUT end.

Next is the feeling of relief when it all lights up and doesn't go bang. Check your panel connection polarity with a meter before plugging them into the inverter (NOT after it fails to start up), then check them again! Do be aware that your panel strings get up to full voltage with a surprisingly small amount of light, there's not much actual power but they can bite pretty hard! Then the feeling of money flowing into your beer fund as the meter starts creeping backwards

Sort of. The spec. you show says that if you run your inverter between 110% and 150% full load it will shut down after 10 seconds. Exceed 150% full load and it shuts down after 5 seconds. The idea being that it can support brief overloads such as motor stating surges. What happens between 100% and 110% is indeterminate, it may or may not shut down after 10 seconds, this "gap" is to ensure that it WILL run at 100% indefinitely regardless of manufacturing tolerances. Your 5.5kW unit running at 6kW is running at 109% and is in the "unknown" area, it may run ok, it may shut down after 10 seconds or 10 minutes (more likely on overheat). It is generally accepted as "unwise" to design your system to run the inverter at maximum power regularly or for extended periods anyway. If you actually have the above loading pattern you need a bigger inverter or a gas water heater.