Crossy

@CLW beat me by milliseconds!! The yellow or white PVC is actually intended for electrical, the bends available are more conducive to get cables in and, because it's thin walled (doesn't need to hold pressure) it "should" be cheaper. Is your current wiring naked singles or muli-core sheathed?? If you don't have a creature problem, why fix it? Our stuff that's in the ceiling spaces and not fixed to the wall is actually in flexy metal conduit as installed by sparky long ago. EDIT Is your peaceful life + nookie worth 6k Baht?

Is the light directly connected to the switch? if so, maybe move the light wire to the other side of the switch? Time to start sketching out the circuit.

One problem is that you are unlikely to find anything DIY fixable in there. Since the easy fix (the switch) is OK, I might be tempted just to add another switch to turn off the light and have done with it.

Take lots of photos before dismembering anything!!

Definitely, although I do miss the chilled pool that our condo in KL had, the locals hated it, too cold!

This sad individual just bought a mini (2000BTU) A/C for the doggos! https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i5177159097-s21952617954.html EDIT It has been suggested that I may get to use it if I upset Madam

With the snooker World Championship in full swing a quick look at where televised snooker all began long, long ago when the world was grey. Includes the great Ted Lowe's most famous comment ...

Looks like it's dead Jim 😞

I bet you've got one of the button actuator "floppy thingies" trapped (been there, got the t-shirt). Do you have someone with steadier hands to pull apart and re-do. Whilst I doubt you've actually killed anything, if you fit the battery to the bare board does the light stay stuck on? I have had remotes that just didn't come back after battery replacement, no real idea why.

DWP could certainly go to online verification. I receive a small monthly pension from the Financial Assurance Scheme (FAS) which provides financial assistance to members of defined benefit pension schemes who lost all or part of their pension following their scheme becoming insolvent. FAS is funded by the DWP. Every year or so I get an email requesting that I prove I'm still breathing via an app "MyPensionID", once set up (one time and easy) all I have to do is run the app, enter the personal number that comes in the email, and take a video selfie (you need to blink). A short time later I get a confirmation email saying all is good. It's not beyond the realms of possibility for them to expand the system to state pensions. But of course it's the UK government 😞

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Event wiring is a nightmare! I would definitely not connect N-E anywhere (think L-N swap on the supply). Far too many performers have died from unexpectly live equipment. If outdoors, I would bang in a local rod (it doesn't need to be massive) and RCD protect your loads making the whole lot a TT island. Indoors and having to use a locally supplied ground check, check, check and still use your RCDs for a TT island (or even drop a lead out of a window and bang in a rod). Also, never rely on labels, verify what each supply terminal does before hooking anything up.

I agree with KISS and there's little risk of overload of the analog meter as it's a 15/45. Done right it can work like that. There's more than one way to skin a cat and achive a satisfactory result.

One does have to ask, why did she need to be carrying 3 grand in cash?

If you have +V on the C terminal then you should see +V on one of the others (NC/NO), flipping the switch should move +V to the other (NC/NO) terminal. If it doesn't then the switch is dead (welded contacts?). It should be easy enough to find another switch that will fit, but one of similar dimensions will likely fail in the same way (buy spares). By the way, I avoid soldering on switches, the internals have an annoying habit of melting Get some crimp-on blade connectors, it's also easier to replace the switch when it fails.

Yup. There's a distinct "Off" state between the "Normal" and "Backup" positions (our motorised ATS takes a second or two to switch over). So, assuming it's wired correctly, there can never be any connection between the supplies.

CR2025 cells have a shelf life of around 10 years. The 12V alkaline ones that are in some remotes are good for 3-5 years. Both tend to have manufacturing or use-by dates on the packaging.

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You would be surprised! And calling a Root Admin "retarded" is, at best, unwise

Madam uses newspaper. She sometimes also adds calcium carbide (yes the stuff used in caving lamps), which gives off acetylene just from the dampness in the air which speeds ripening of most fruits if you need to hurry them along.

Fairy nuff, understood. We have at least 4 cell types in remotes (apart from regular AA and AAA) but they are the same in the car remotes. I just buy 10 of each type then when they go dead it's a 5 minute job. Of course, when you are down to two it's time to order more 🙂

I can't offer a place, but our remotes come apart easily if you have watchmakers screwdrivers, batteries readily available on Lazada. I'm surprised your local man can't do it unless he simply doesn't have the cells.

With a 15/45 there should be no problem feeding the inverter "Grid" input from the small house supply 🙂 I reckon your original idea is good, add an ATS in both houses to switch to grid if you need to service the inverter(s). Connect the ATSs so that the "Normal" input is from your inverter and the "Backup" input is the grid. You may want to retain a small load (porch light on a photo-switch?) purely on-grid to keep the meter moving, we also have a couple of pure grid outlets which we use for the welder.

Personally, I'd retain both meters and have an ATS in both houses to switch each to grid in the event of an inverter failure. What size is the existing analog meter (5/15, 15/45)?

You'll be fine. They "should" only be sending notifications to those where the names don't match.