sometimewoodworker

You are probably using data transfer (more expensive, but not much) cables. Test; Allow connections, transfer data (pictures), result success = don’t use that cable without protection in public charging stations. There are adapters (probably very cheap as they are trivially simple, no electronics required, to make) that don’t connect the data pins. For USB A don’t connect pins 2&3.

@KannikaP No joking intended, just an assumption of basic (to me) comprehension. Egg sucking tutorial. Test 1: 1) plug-in the, usually cheap, charging cable to a known good power supply.. 2) check that it is charging 3) plug the charging cable into the device you use for data transfer. 4) result 1; you get no data transfer, stop = probable success, else go to (5) 5) you get data transfer = failure (as a pure charge, no data transfer cable) Test 2: Requires a multi meter and knowledge of its use in purely electrical connections and in electronics; less egg sucking instructions but still more than an electronics tech (or tech adjacent user) needs. 1) confirm continuity between each pin. 2) confirm the same with reversed polarity; to check that there are no electronics effecting continuity 3) ensure that the pin connections are not reversed or incorrect (not an absolute requirement, but you have the meter and knowledge so why not) 4)the above will show that all pins are or are not, connected and correctly configured, that the charge pins are connected and the data pins are or are not connected. 5) for confirmation, go to Test 1 Test 3: 1) cut the cable plugs apart and look for soldered connections on the pins 2) throw away the destroyed cable and use the second spare, go to Test 1 for belt and braces.

Isn’t it blinding obvious for a non destructive test? There are actually 2 the more definitive one requires test equipment. and of course a destructive one.

To avoid the problem and continue using the chargers with impunity use a connecting cable without the data pins connected. The majority of cables, mostly cheaper ones, supplied to charge devices like rechargeable battery items don’t have the data pins connected. The way to check is simple.

Excellently stated Inverters can be moderately oversized with no, or minimal, reduction in de-humidification due to the point that they don’t stop cooling at a set point, they ramp down the intensity of cooling but are still dehumidifying. It is certainly possible that an over sized inverter will dehumidify at a slower rate than a correctly sized one, I haven’t seen data on the subject.

lightning bolts vary from 5 kA to 200 kA and voltages are from 40 kV to 120 kV. Given those potentials virtually nothing you can do makes a huge difference to a direct strike, a near strike kills some cattle due to the voltage difference between legs they can be positive or negative and it is the difference between the ground voltage or earthing potential that causes the strike. The answer to your question is that Cloud-to-ground lightning comes from the sky down, but the part you see comes from the ground up and is the brighter flash. However the combination S->G & G->S strike is around 1/1000000 millionth of a second. fortunately the majority of strikes are cloud to cloud

But 12V ones do if you have a suitable battery, we do, we have one.

Complete BS - the majority of standard ACs are oversized, the inverters are mostly more than is required. Again a statement that has no basis in fact (as well as bad spelling) correctly installed ACs can be installed several to many metres between the 2 units. Some may have leaks, the majority do not, some may just have gas added others get a leak fixed. Daikin (correct spelling) are a good make. There is no information as to the size required. Air conditioners are capable of reducing a given volume of air by a limited amount increasing the capacity (BTU) of the unit allows lower temperatures faster. If you want to reduce your room temperature to one that a polar bear would like you need a very large unit, almost certainly 3 phase and likely industrial grade. Of course this depends on the insulation and size of the cooled area.

I have one that I used until I got my iPhone SE 2. It is capable of connecting to the internet, however there are extremely few apps that can be installed, probably by now few of them, if any, are currently available.There are few sites that can be accessed and maybe by now almost none due to https being standard, and few if any are usable on the tiny screen. Personally I never used the extremely limited (and difficult to use) connectivity. It works perfectly well as a phone and receives sms messages.

Yes they are.

This is a standard way in the U.K. I have never seen it used here and the materials used are not readily available. I would not and the majority of people as far as I know would not The old wood houses are not in anyway airtight, often not watertight either. As such rather that putting lipstick on a pig there is not much to do without rather extensive modifications and considerable expense, the modifications may be equivalent to rebuilding anyway. The best choice may well be to rebuild. Surface wiring is not pretty but is does allow a higher current than in wall wiring, it is also less easy to damage the wiring accidentally.

Old houses yes of course, many. New build very few. New or old build with plaster board walls, none that I have seen. Few builders or people getting building done here who try to use practices just “because they are standard in the (U.K. U.S.A. Australia etc)” find it in any way easy to get the materials or workers able to use them. If a material were in demand it would become available. Take AAC blocks, they are widely available now, 20 years ago they were seldom seen. The building practices of the U.K. U.S.A. Australia etc require the conditions usual in those countries along with the workforce trained in using the materials that are standard in those countries. The U.S.A. & Australia are majority temperate climate countries so building methods are mostly developed for temperate climates, Thailand is tropical so the methods and materials are for tropical building, stud walls with plasterboard are not the best way for the climate. All the noggins and timbers are expensive because wood as a building material is very expensive here.

Since plasterboard walls and timber frames are as rare as hens teeth here due to the fact that they will both be eaten by termites. The likelihood of you finding clip in boxes is low. They almost certainly can be found, but it’s not going to be easy because nobody uses them.

The PVC ball valves degrade with UV exposure they can and do (yes I have had experience if this) become so degraded that they are worthless. I don’t remember the difference in cost but as I use the lazy man’s approach, which is only do something once and get it right, the difference is not that much factoring in my time.

I don’t understand exactly what you mean by “electronically disabling the power to the pump using volt free contacts”. I don’t know a way that the float switch (it switches up to 7.5A AC so not rated for DC switching ) can function in the way you suggest. if there is a way I would be interested to understand exactly how as I can’t think how it can work. That was the reasoning behind having a contactor at or near the pump/PV If there is a contactor in the suggested position then the trigger current would not be significant however using a 220V relay to switch the PV (12V~24V DC) current to the pump would probably be the best solution. I agree.

This is our storage, here are the tank connections and should we ever need to drain the tanks we have stopcocks so we can either direct the flow or not have 2,500L flood out at full pressure.

The relay isn’t necessary just because the wiring between it and the pump control box. FWIW none of our pumps have any wiring dedicated to a float switch. If the power to the pump is switched by the float switch (this is how our setup works) then 200 metres is either going to require some significantly large cross section cable or a contactor near the pump so that the power isn’t having to from the PV -> 200m float switch -> 200m Pump So it is certainly possible that the pump control box contains a contactor as you suggest but one IS required due to the 400 metres of cable required from the tanks to the pump (200 x 2) either in the control box if it has one or external if it doesn’t.

I didn’t elaborate on the wiring as it is really simple, however it seems that what is simple to me may not be as obvious as I assume. The 300 baht float switch has contacts that are capable of switching 16A (they are able to be wired usually on or usually off). However as the pump is 200 metres away an under 1A 220V AC (you can probably use low voltage DC if required) control current will make things easier, so you put your contactor near the pump so you don’t have a high current load for any significant distance. I am assuming that the power feed from the PV is close to the pump. FWIW 7 days will be enough to start filling and you will be able to troubleshoot the pipe work. However on the pipe work you are currently unable to isolate any one tank so any problem or need to clean a single tank will require you to empty all the tanks. We have only 3 but I can have each one isolated if I need to. Adding valves before you start filling is simple, after they are full, not so much.

It’s a reasonably simple job to do. Since you have what is effective a single tank a single maximum minimum electrical float switch will do the job. You can add a relay in, this will reduce the size of the wire needed to connect the pump. I really don’t see that this is in anyway complicated, or in need of design ideas. Unless the tanks are being supplied by rain water you will never need the overflow. if however they are dual sourced then just ensure that the overflow pipe is larger in diameter than the rain water inlet, problem solved

So it seems that our choice of mounting the outside units on the walls just under the eves was a good one. I think that only geckos can get to them.

It’s typical anti Apple click bate. Since the phones that will no longer get OS system updates are being end if life-Ed at virtually double the lifespan of equivalent android models. Apple typically gets 8 OS updates while android is lucky to get 2~3. So Apple devices on average have updates ranging from 7 years and up, the currently supported phones were released in 2015. So while you may find that they are a bit slow since the CPU is 7 generations old they still work well as phones.

If you have a hight limit then you are using the wrong type of storage tank. We have medium sized ones are 2,500L and they are 1.3 meters high. You can get them up to about 5,000L though of course they are taller

This is probably the only one I have confidence in.

It isn’t the correct grow light colour

What is difficult about the regimen I suggested? It has very little smell and is very fast. Also if your only requirement is to waterproof the door then just use the RTB polyurethane, you can do about 4~5 coats in one day