sometimewoodworker

I spent almost 30 years there for work (as it was better for travel here) and SWMBO spent almost 10, while I have little inclination to visit again but SWMBO hankers after the sashimi and amount you can save working there.

Clearly you are not a Japanese female and excreting solid rather than liquid. ????

It’s not difficult, all 6 faces of the door should look the same. Painted or clear finished. It is trivially easy to know by the colour. Took at the tops of your doors, if they are unfinished I can guarantee so are the bottoms. They should be finished to reduce wood movement, they will probably work well after fitting but may develop problems later.

While I don’t and won’t have one I have used them in Japan, they include: Temperature controlled seat, Temperature controlled wash water Settings for female and male washing spray Water spray pressure control A variety of sounds to mask female embarrassment (they used to use pine needles still attached to the branches to prevent splashing noises) Fan assist air filtration In bowl illumination Music Automatic; Open close flush Water sanitising UV C sanitising And quite possibly other things I forget now. If you go through Narita there is the Toto gallery with the latest models for you to experience.

It’s not even remotely close to the Rolls Royce of toilets, for that you need to go to Toto currently one of the top ones is CES993RVA ฿723,320.

The larger on that doesn’t have the eyes is AFIR a Moderna and about ฿24,000 it’s mainly used by SWMBO and she certainly likes it as does the supervisor ????

You probably won’t like the price though. ????

It’s usually reasonably easy to lop off a few mm so they fit well. Though you do need to make sure that you put the correct angle on the door, probably about 88 degrees, and of course on the correct side as well. Don’t forget that all 6 faces need finishing. Also you need a competent chippy to do the job, but since fitting doors is hardly rocket science you have a good shot at that.

The doors being fitted in the wrong season with incorrect reveals. Fit them when the humidity has been consistently under 40% with tight reveals and you won’t be able to open them after a couple of weeks of the rainy season. My doors, I fitted them myself, don’t stick as I did them in the rainy season.

That very much depends on the design of your rooms. My workshop fans (84”) are ceiling mounted and are excellent, FWIW the workshop is not cooled, the 6 house fans are also ceiling mounted and SWMBO supplements them with a couple of floor fans

You can, but you probably won’t like the prices. All our fans have 6 settings and are absolutely silent on number 1 & 2.

We probably have the installation instructions somewhere, if I find them I’ll let you know. As to the style wee like them and it makes cleaning easier.

You can get ones that aren’t open backed if you want, like this and this

You probably misunderstood the exact meaning of wood moving. There is virtually no movement in length no matter what changes. Heat makes virtually zero difference until you reach between 420k to over 570k when the structural integrity begins to degrade The grain orientation is the big factor the closer to 90 degrees on the face the less the piece will move in width. So conversely the closer to zero the greater the movement. While some woodworking may take advantage of the lack of movement with manufactured material lack of movement is not often of much, to any, concern. The reason for compressed sawdust being popular are, among others, it’s consistent structure, its availability, its weight, that its available in multiple thicknesses, that it’s cheap. While I have a few sheets in stock it’s probably less than 5% of my stock and is seldom my first choice as it is quite fragile. Used in the correct places it’s useful, so if you design the pieces for it, it’s going to work well.

All wood moves if the humidity changes. It doesn’t matter the quality of the wood or how well it has been finished, though the finish can slow the wood movement down. There are tables that tell you how much movement, this is one for sealed wood, look hard enough and you will find the information for the commonly used woods There are 2 exceptions to this, though the first isn’t really an exception. First if you encase the wood In resin (embedded in epoxy) do the humidity can’t reach it. The other is thermally modified wood, cook it long enough and hot enough and then the humidity doesn’t matter, this is a very recent invention and is difficult to find and expensive to do in larger sizes. Wood movement is well known, though some information has been forgotten in recent times (last 50 to 120 years), and furniture is designed around the fact. The way the board is cut has a major impact on the amount of movement. The reason that manufactured boards have virtually zero movement is that the wood making them is either too small (MDF, chipboard, OSB etc.) or the stresses are balanced and restricted by glue (plywood, blockboard) the intermediates are the boards constructed from very short boards like rubber wood. FWIW MDF is actually compressed sawdust rather than cardboard and the apparent splitting if layers is due to the compression factors. Also if you get a smooth finish when cutting or routing it’s more likely to be MR-MDF that has a higher percentage of glue in it. Regular MDF When cross cut it leaves a fuzzy edge.

As mentioned there are only 2 apple stores in Thailand, however there may be a more simple way round the problem if the brother has access to his brothers Apple ID he can unlock the phone himself and reset it. If he doesn’t have that then call 1800-01-9209. Or 1800-019-900 and explain the problem they will tell you exactly what to do. If he has at least the email address associated with the Apple ID it will make life easier. He may need both passports as well as the death certificate. However the deceased may have added a Digital Legacy Contact which will make life much more simple.

But where would the fun be then?!

It is unlikely that IKEA is using MR-MDF the English name for the material you have found known as HMR. The screws that are correct for chipboard are amazingly called chipboard screws! as they are a course thread they will work for MDF of and verity 2mm ~ 5mm less than the total thickness that you are joining, this includes the head if using Countersunk screws but not if you are using Roundhead ones. Don't forget the pilot hole, as if you don’t you will split the material. you will be able to use the same screws on the wood battens you use for re enforcement.

So you either knew what you were doing or got lucky ????

Absolutely not, some joints can have inserts that are designed for that but chipboard and MDF will quickly strip out the thread cut by fasteners. So while you may be able to breakdown the items once or twice the fasteners will get progressively looser unless you are remarkably lucky.

More information including pictures will get an even more comprehensive answer

Likely the IKEA cabinet is perfectly fit for purpose, but only just, as IKEA makes its profit by not over engineering the items, so take our panels or cut holes in the wrong places and the structural integrity is probably lost. MDF of any kind is a disaster if it gets wet MR-MDF is a little better but is not a material I would use in a potentially wet area. For that I would use plywood. You can cut holes in panels and have them maintain structural integrity if you know exactly what you are doing. For wood screws in man made boards always drill a pilot hole. The screws to use are these or these FWIW neither of these are very good on the chipboard that IKEA uses, or on MDF

Wise choice, he is probably actually trained and competent. We to know a PEA guy who is trying to move up to EGAT but hasn’t passed the tests yet and he is certainly competent.

Randomly adding a E -> N link, unless you are an actual electrician and have the equipment and training is a poor idea. It seems from your questions that you don’t have that, so it maybe OK but maybe not