Encid

In our situation I intend to initially make a spoon drain next to our access road (yet to be built) and direct the runoff water towards the farm. I want to keep surface runoff and roof drain water well away from our retaining wall... just send it off in another direction.

Great idea! What sort of mesh did you use? Metal? Plastic?

You are a nice guy hey? One of my neighbours in our moobaan uses an Airsoft BB gun like this to keep the flying rats away... It is pretty accurate but not deadly. Our nickname for him is "Rambo" Disclaimer: I do not and will not ever condone "Rambo's" behaviour... but he certainly enjoys it.

Thank you... I think that it's great too! We can air opinions and ideas and as we are in the building stage you can see the actual progress too. My family and friends overseas also like to read this topic to see what we're up to. No immediate plans to do any rain water harvesting, although it might be a future project. A lot depends on the future crops that we are going to try on the farm... with a plentiful aquifer supplying reasonably uncontaminated ground water I don't see an immediate need for rain water harvesting.

Thank you. I have worked for a couple of years in Darwin and also a few in Nhulunbuy so I know what top end weather is like... I was working in Darwin during Cyclone Marcus in 2018... unbelievable that despite all the damage nobody was killed. Yes, Isaan weather can be very similar to the NT... but I think that the humidity here in Thailand is much higher and lasts longer.

I personally like it! Architects call that style of design "brutalism".

No thanks! The BlueScope metal steel roof will be 5cm thick PU foam coated, with a PVC foil/metal sheet facing underneath. The ends of the sheets (both high and low) will be covered by sheet metal and fixed in place by rivets and sealed with silicone so birds (and other rodents) cannot make their way inside the PU foam. The gutter design is such that the metal sheet will be formed so that it fits under the BlueScope metal steel roof, and sealed with silicone. Appropriately formed sheet metal flashing will be installed along the non-gutter sides of the roof and also sealed with silicone. And if birds do become a problem at some time in the future we could always install these along the length of the gutter(s): I agree 100%, and that is what we have done with our current terracotta tiled hip roofed house in Najomtien, but this roof is hidden behind an AAC block façade so gutters are mandatory. And... we have no eaves! As I said earlier, I have had a lot of discussions with my builder about gutters and roof drainage, and I think (and hope) that we have come up with a design that is practical and effective... time will tell. I am still interested to hear thoughts and comments though... we have time to change the design if someone comes up with a brilliant alternative!

We have had quite a few discussions about the gutters... how big they should be, how deep, what drain sizes, how many drains there should be etc. Taking into account how heavy the rain can be in Isaan at certain times is a challenge for a concealed sloping roof, and I'm hopeful that our design can handle the torrential and extended deluges that we can expect from a tropical storm or the remains of a cyclone. Here is the upper roof level gutter: And here is the lower level gutter: And this is the principle of design: My builder's original plan was to have 4" PVC drain outlets as follows: But as that upper roof gutter is 12m long I was not convinced that it could handle a tropical deluge without overflowing, so I changed the number of outlets as follows: I am not overly concerned if the lower level gutter overflows (although I'd prefer that it doesn't), as that is covering the external deck area and the Thai kitchen. In any case, the overflow will be directed away from the entrance and exit doors to the house.

A couple of days later and the roof support steel is being erected...

A couple of weeks later and things are progressing albeit much slower than before. Some of the columns have been extended a bit to provide the support necessary for the facia blockwork, and the supporting RC roof beams are being formed and poured in-situ. The facia will conceal a sloping BlueScope roof and gutter similar to this: Not an ideal situation as it is time-consuming work with the associated access (and safety) issues of working at heights. But... it is getting there.

The major active hydropower plants in Thailand are Lam TA Khong, Bhumibol Dam, Sirikit, Srinagarind Dam, Srinagarind Pumped Storage, Vajiralongkorn, Rajjaprabha, Bhumibol Pumped Storage, Pak Mun, and Bang lang. Lam TA Khong is the largest hydropower plant in terms of total capacity. The cumulative capacity for hydropower in Thailand was 3.5 GW in 2021. Source

Monthly consumption of 1276 kWh... hmmm... similar to mine for April but being 100% PEA supplied my bill was 6,942.50 baht. What was yours?

Sika Thailand also has a product worth considering...

I did plagiarize that somewhat... but added embellishment here and there to explain further...

Bonus!

From the QCON handbook depending on the blocks thickness the allowable load in kg/m2 is quite high provided that you use the correct fasteners.

With any single phase (liquid) piping system the aims are to try to keep the suction piping as large as possible and as short as possible and to reduce in size only to meet the pump's suction nozzle size at the nozzle. Reduction in size should be made by use of eccentric reducers (not concentric) which are flat on top. The suction pipe should be as straight as possible and between 5 to 10 pipe diameters in length. This reduces the possibility of cavitation and ensures that the inlet pressure drop is minimal. Keeping the pump suction piping short ensures that the inlet pressure drop is as low as possible. The straight-run pipe gives the system a uniform velocity across the pipe diameter at the pump inlet. Both are important to achieving optimal suction. Pipe sizing is a balancing act between cost and friction loss. Larger pipes cost more, whereas smaller pipes impose greater friction losses on the system. In terms of diameter, discharge pipe diameter should normally match the discharge nozzle or flange on the pump, but can be larger to reduce friction losses and decrease system pressure. Pump discharge piping should never be reduced in size less than the discharge nozzle except for offtakes to consumer outlets (showers, faucets etc.) because it puts unnecessary back-pressure on the pump and can greatly reduce pump life and performance.

We are using the AAC blocks for our build (ThaiCon not QCON... same same), however there is a cinder type concrete block available that incorporates an air gap, which may make them a possible cheaper alternative with some insulating properties. They are called "Fast Bricks" and come in different thicknesses from 3" to 8".

Did it arrive yet? Got photos?

The Kingdom of Thailand Ministry of Transport Department of Highways has a set of standard drawings for the saw-cut expansion joints you see them working on for all new major RC roadworks. Here are a couple of excerpts from those drawings which may help:

[email protected] 065 580 9888 [email protected] 097 107 4253 And CaptainDIY is just his trade name... he is most definitely a professional solar consultant. You might not use/like social media platforms, but you can see some of his work and interests on YouTube. Just a disclaimer here... I am not in any way affiliated with either of these two companies, but I have seen their work and was impressed by their professionalism.

I have a Hayward 1.5hp pool pump for filtration/circulation, and another Hayward 1.5hp pool pump for the waterfall (which we rarely use). Each uses 1.1kW per hour of operation, so if you are filtering your pool for 8 hours per day (8am-midday, and 2pm to 6pm) then your daily power consumption will be 8.8kW.

You could try Solarwert - a German (I think) owned company based in Rayong. They have a FaceBook page where you can see some of the prices for their package systems... not cheap though, but the quality of installation looks good. Alternatively you could try Captain DIY - a Thai company that has installed many systems predominantly in Isaan but has done some in Chonburi as well. He too has a Facebook page where you can see some of the kit he has installed... his prices are reasonable, and the quality of installation also looks good. Being Thai, his English is not perfect but it is passable and if you persevere with getting your ideas across so that he fully understands what you want, he will give you a very competitive price to supply and install a system.

I have now got a contact at Sofar if you want... they finally replied to me and this person is quite helpful. Linda Lu 卢 颖 娴 Linda Lu +86 186 5246 6610 亚洲其它区域 | ROA负责人Head of ROA sub-region | www.sofarsolar.com [email protected] ROA = "Rest of Asia"

I am now doing exactly that...