Bagwain

Expensive!

Coarse Eco is only used in very large filters to cover the dispersers on the bottom. Most filters we only use the small including house filters. I am glad you sent oictures as I though you where talking about a pool filter. I typically throw these types of filters out & replace with fibreglass. These in the pictures are cheap 304 stainless and will be pitted inside from corrosive water. In particular iron in the water creates an acid which also damages the inside. If one has carbon, it will most likely be a solid block now. The PVC looks like it will be brittle as well. You may find you will have a hell of a time once you start pulling them apart. I strongly recomend changing to fibreglass POE filters. Fibreglass is impervious to damage from harsh water & menerals. One with Eco & other with resin softner. See attached pcture of POE house filter. The one in the pic is 12" and takes 60 kilo Eco

You only need coarse with very large filters. Measure the diameter for me to give corect quantities. Is it side mount or top mount MPV? (Multi port vavlve)

I can supply. What size filter? Take a picture of the spec plate on the side of the filter. You need 80% of sand weight.

Where are you situated?

Email sent. ????

10 x 4 is a basic backyard pool here. If you are a good swimmer I would consdider a little longer or have swim jets installed. We have done a few. Pic is an example as we are filling the pool.

Missleading information as always! Control of pH comes down to which type of chlorine being used, make up water & alkalinity! There is more than one type of algae. Copper sulphate only assists and doesn't kill viruses & hardy bacteria. Bather load, weather, local conditions are other factors which you seem to have NO idea about! I understand you are trying to help, however one size doesn't fit all. Plus you constant bagging of the people in the industry is sad. Why don't you go down the road and give the hardware store a hard time for making a living and profit?

As SantiSuk has alluded too. 90% Granular chlorine is the go. Be aware that is has a pH of 7 and has cynuric acid in it. (Meaning the acidity of the water will always drop to below acceptable levels)! This causes the pH to drop considerably needed counter measures such as soda ash to correct and bring back up to correct measures. Bit of an art to get the natives to know how to do this correctly! If not done correctly you will get degridation of the grout & pool surface finish happening in NO time!

How big a pool are you thinking of getting built?

PM sent

I just successfully did online 90 day!

So much for attracting the digital nomads. Typical LOS shooting the foot again! ????????

Get a Jack Russell or 2. I have 3, A silly black cat ventured into my yard a few nights ago. Lasted about 30 seconds! ????

PM me

Do some darn research!

When you do it online what date is put on the 90 day, the date of approval or 90 days from the previous date? The system has accepted me and I am about to do online. I have just got into the 15 day prior period. TIA

Most sand used in Thailand is of an inferior type than used in the west. (Generaly speaking) Thai sand is stuffed at its best at 2 yrs unless silicate sand or Eco recycled plate glass. Over backwashing is the culprit. Natives like to backwash every time they go into a pump room. If you could wash it would only take out the broken down sand (Clay). Best & more efficient is to change the media! See attached. Beware the ???? on here saying that sand last for ever in rivers as this is a rediculous comparison! Cheers Eco Clear.pdf

They are available. This is what I can supply! PM for details.

Yep. Use a rubber handle or a rubber mallot. If it sound hollow take it of & reset!

Epoxy grout is over kill. If the water balance is kept in place there will be no issue. No one cares about water balance in this country! 90% Tric-Chlor is the culprit. Best have a salt chlorinator installed! I have dealt with hundreds of commercial pools here & I get a blank stare when I question about this issue. (17 yrs) I would also think some drum testing of the existing tiles needs to be done to see if any will need to be re-glued! Some domestic pools we have redone needed nearly 1/3 of the tiles needed re-setting!

We are talking about swimming pool water not drinking water or pharmaceuticals! ???? Precision is not an issue dealing with .3 ppm As stated do a search!

There is a simple re-agent kit you can buy to measure copper. Forget all the whiches tails and goggledegoop.! Do a search!

You don't need anymore than point 3 PPM of copper algaecide. Black algae is a result of prolonged high pH. Using using chlorine pills is a good way of killing it of by rubbing them into the grout lines. However (IMHO) with your other issues on top of black algae it would be much simpler to empty, clean & refill. Don't bother with the algaecide & just keep you pH in range (7.2 - 7.4)

Flaps are called a weir. They flap back & forth to create a vacuum effect on the surface water. Although they still work without, they make the whole process more efficient! Take the old one to a pool shop to get a replacement one. Depending on where you are it most likely not an issue to replace!