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Posted

I have a bit of woodwork to do in my living room.I'm going to put some cheap cladding on the walls.

I also have battening on the ceiling where the Thai Guy left the screws exposed.

 

My question is whether I should countersink the screws,fill them and paint them.

If I do the screws will be hidden and I will have a hard job when I might have to take them off

and may have to damage them.

 

Or is there an old trick where you can find the screws again after they've been filled and painted.

 

What would you do or what would the pros do.

Posted

Can you glue it? Do you have a flattish wall or framework to work off with the walls. Either pva glue or dots of "no more nails"

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Posted

The walls have box metal framing/stud work and all the screws are being attached to that.

The cladding is heavy and 3/4 inched thick so it needs to be sturdy.

 

The framework has already been primed and painted. Would glue still work.

 

 

Posted

O.k.

Is that an old trick of the trade.Magnets.

 

I was going to use those screws for metal anyway'

Can you elaborate on the magnet trick.Is there a special type of magnet

that you use,extra small or something.

Posted
The walls have box metal framing/stud work and all the screws are being attached to that.
The cladding is heavy and 3/4 inched thick so it needs to be sturdy.
 
The framework has already been primed and painted. Would glue still work.
 
 
No more nails and similar products is very strong, I wouldn't use PVA for that option

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, chiangrai said:

Or is there an old trick where you can find the screws again after they've been filled and painted.

Magnet? Should be Ok as the wood is 3/4 thick so studs will not be a factor. You could also Take photo and add some measurements if you wish.

Edited by VocalNeal
Posted
57 minutes ago, agudbuk said:

There is an old saying . " If you can't hide it make a feature of it" How about using large short square or round head coach bolts.

Indeed. I've used coach screws on the outdoor table and benches, and a few indoor things with those hex-head "roofing" screws left exposed as a "feature", Madam has not complained.

Posted

Making it a feature would look too busy where it's going.

 

Glue sounds the easiest way.What do you recommend,wood glue and saw dust,no more nails or PVA.Would the box metal being primed and painted effect it anyway.

I would also like to paint the back of the wood if I can to be some protection against termites.Is no more nails available in Thailand.

 

If not I will go with the steel nails and magnet.

 

 

 

Posted

Not seen "No More Nails" itself here, but there are several similar construction adhesives available, anything from Pattex is likely to be good.

 

Paint / stain which is adhering well and fully dried will make little difference to the adhesion, one it's set don't expect to be removing it easily.

 

Sawdust mixed with a little PVA is an old trick and can make filling almost invisible.

 

 

Posted
38 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

Making it a feature would look too busy where it's going.

 

Glue sounds the easiest way.What do you recommend,wood glue and saw dust,no more nails or PVA.Would the box metal being primed and painted effect it anyway.

I would also like to paint the back of the wood if I can to be some protection against termites.Is no more nails available in Thailand.

 

If not I will go with the steel nails and magnet.

 

 

 

Paint will do  nothing to stop termites you need to use chandrite once it has dried (about a week if you want to use glue) you can use glue nails or screws 

Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, chiangrai said:

How would you use nails in box metal.

Ask eyecatcher he did exactly that.

I don't say it's a good idea but he should be able to tell you how it worked for him.

 

he did use a nail gun.

 

Edited by sometimewoodworker
Posted
On 9/13/2017 at 5:33 PM, mikebike said:

Wood glue mixed with sawdust works well.

you must mix it better than me then. I have done the sawdust and glue fill on all my outside woodwork and with stronger mixes each time I still cant manage to see it slowly treacle drip out and have to re do the following day.

 

its not what its cracked up to be and i wouldnt recommend it on ceilings...for that you can mix gypsum powder

Posted
Just now, eyecatcher said:

you must mix it better than me then

Use less glue than you think, then add more sawdust :smile:

 

You need (much) more wood than glue.

Posted
14 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Use less glue than you think, then add more sawdust :smile:

 

You need (much) more wood than glue.

thanks for that tip.....spit and sawdust where did that come from?

 

maybe just a taproom floor

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