New Build in Khon Kaen

[sirineou]

For those that do not know, a couple of comments concerning AAC Block  ( Autoclaved aerated concrete  ). The aerated part is the introduction of tiny (80% of valume) air bubbles into the concrete through  autoclaving process (heated to high temperatures in an autoclave oven)

These air bubbles make it  very lite (it will float in water)  reducing the weight load on the structure, they also highly increase the R value ( heat  insulating property). R 13 for an 8 inch wall (the R value enhanced in this instance do to the cavity between two walls)

Also they offer superior noise reduction properties ( no one will hear me scream when I get the bill ) LOL.

Edited December 2, 2017 by sirineou

[Morakot]

55 minutes ago, sirineou said:

PS: ACC block is glued with special  thinset glue.  I will post more pictures of walls when they are completed , next steps are to run electric and then render.

 

Great!  Thanks for posting all this!

 

Would be interested to see how they render these blocks and how they treat the edges between blocks and pillars.

 

 

[Naam]

23 minutes ago, sirineou said:

For those that do not know, a couple of comments concerning AAC Block  ( Autoclaved aerated concrete  ). The aerated part is the introduction of tiny (80% of valume) air bubbles into the concrete through  autoclaving process (heated to high temperatures in an autoclave oven)

These air bubbles make it  very lite (it will float in water) 

the locally available AAC blocks don't float. their air content varies between 60 and 65% depending on manufacturer and batch. reason: the cost for the combustible medium that is added used to create the air bubbles by heating has become quite expensive (about 15 years ago).

[sirineou]

2 hours ago, Naam said:

the locally available AAC blocks don't float. their air content varies between 60 and 65% depending on manufacturer and batch. reason: the cost for the combustible medium that is added used to create the air bubbles by heating has become quite expensive (about 15 years ago).

There go my flood contingency plan  , I guess it's back to scuba gear LOL

(Thanks for that info , I did not know)

[Naam]

56 minutes ago, sirineou said:

There go my flood contingency plan  , I guess it's back to scuba gear LOL

(Thanks for that info , I did not know)

floating or not, you made the right choice. not only by using aerated blocks but also constructing double walls. make sure the top of the walls are sealed to prevent air movement!

[cheeryble]

16 hours ago, Naam said:

the locally available AAC blocks don't float. their air content varies between 60 and 65% depending on manufacturer and batch. reason: the cost for the combustible medium that is added used to create the air bubbles by heating has become quite expensive (about 15 years ago).

Good fact Naam.

Wonder if there's a "better" brand.

 

" make sure the top of the walls are sealed to prevent air movement!"

 

maybe a thin piece of cement board spanning the gap glued with a bit of the block adhesive? Or  so as to leave the top flat maybe just 6 inch wide from a roll of something like visqueen (vapour barrier polythene) stuck on?

 

 

Edited December 3, 2017 by cheeryble

[KKr]

you surely put the electricity pipes before closing the space between the AAC block walls ?

[Naam]

1 hour ago, cheeryble said:

maybe a thin piece of cement board spanning the gap glued with a bit of the block adhesive?

usually a concrete "ring anchor" is poured on the top of a block wall. but due to Thailand's skeleton style (posts) it can be done only in sections.

[cheeryble]

8 minutes ago, Naam said:

usually a concrete "ring anchor" is poured on the top of a block wall. but due to Thailand's skeleton style (posts) it can be done only in sections.

Wow well sourced photo!

 

Of course, good to have a strong ring up there, and useful like a wall plate.

I guess for a 2x75mm AAC cavity wall it would go full width and high enough to embed rebar and make it worthwhile

 

Edited December 3, 2017 by cheeryble

[Naam]

28 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

I guess for a 2x75mm AAC cavity wall it would go full width and high enough to embed rebar and make it worthwhile

embedding rebar goes without saying

[cheeryble]

Just out looking at our potential site at end of garden after a hospital break.

We now as well as a chalet for mum have a soft driveway to the back for access..... the wife ordered 5 trucks of something thats kinda shiny and looks a bit like coal, crushed with some biggish lumps still in it, and its over 80% done so one more truck (1300bt per truck).  Also now have a typical two tower with cistern on top for filtering the well water made of concrete rings. Look neatly done.

So we were chatting about layout and i mentioned AAC blocks.

She said her friend had told her  the red blocks are stronger. I said don't worry about that.

She said she was also told something about using AAC blocks in the bathroom "not good"

This may have a point and wondering if the blocks are waterproofed or additive added to render/plaster, and what. Same goes for the outside render i guess.

Edited December 3, 2017 by cheeryble

[vogie]

Great read, hopefully will be doing the same one day. Thanks

[Naam]

2 hours ago, cheeryble said:

She said she was also told something about using AAC blocks in the bathroom "not good"

This may have a point and wondering if the blocks are waterproofed or additive added to render/plaster, and what. Same goes for the outside render i guess.

don't listen to rubbish. no such thing like additive needed.

and don't tell your wife what i wrote! 

[Naam]

and perhaps think of a bathroom without wall tiles (except shower) that does not look like a slaughterhouse. built in the last 30 years 5 homes (2 for us, 3 for friends) with aerated blocks and bathrooms that... see above.

 

 

 

 

[sirineou]

5 hours ago, KKr said:

you surely put the electricity pipes before closing the space between the AAC block walls ?

I would have used the cavity for running mechanical, it is the easiest way, But that requires coordination between the wall people and the electrician team. I guess they still can do it , but with the ring beam and window shill beam in the way it is not as easy.

19 hours ago, Naam said:

floating or not, you made the right choice. not only by using aerated blocks but also constructing double walls. make sure the top of the walls are sealed to prevent air movement!

There is a ring beam running on top of the windows and 2/3rds up the wall where there are no windows to beef up the wall , it also provides a good anchoring point for hanging cabinets  , and the cavity on the top of the wall will be filled much in the way the sides of the windows were.

[sirineou]

1 hour ago, Naam said:

and perhaps think of a bathroom without wall tiles (except shower) that does not look like a slaughterhouse. built in the last 30 years 5 homes (2 for us, 3 for friends) with aerated blocks and bathrooms that... see above.

 

 

 

 

Thank you for that.  I like it!

I will forward the idea to the wife,

[sirineou]

Also , Thy are now working in the shade, as work got started on the roof.

Roof Battens were installed to accommodate the roof tiles

Tiles were loaded on the roof and Reflective foil started to be installed .

Then tikes laid on top of reflective foil.

 

View of roof from the back of the house, also you can see part pf the ring beam

 Important to use Ridge vents, As much as as I asked the wife to go up there and take picture, she would not do it ! LOL, also Gable, and soffit  vents will be installed later to help  convection move some of the hot air out of the attic. If needed at some point I might consider an electric extractor fan  but as of now I don't think I will need it.

 

 

 

 

[zaZa9]

Enjoying this thread!

I like the roof - please name the tile model and Company .

My Q is - do you seal the top  cavity for the walls or not ( I wasnt clear from the read).

It may seem a small pointer but I will make it.

Throw down blue pipe ( say 1"  pipe - capped at both ends )  under  and across the driveway before its poured so that you can run the inevitable irrigation pipes / garden lighting etc  under it  that will come later. If it were me I would even do this at a couple of points at least on the side footpath. Of course the latter  would need a right angled riser ( capped for now ) just clearing the footpath .  These could even carry a/c excess drips to the grass or soil. Theres so many times I see that horrible blue pipe running may metres along paths , or wet green patches on paths where the a/c drips.. Of course , I guess there is to be some 4'' pipes under the proposed paths to carry any rainwater from the roof away? 

Also , if you havent already , make sure there is a capped  junction somewhere convenient  along the sewer line for your downstairs 'pisser' that you will surely add. Capped water water junction  to.

 

[Naam]

4 hours ago, sirineou said:

There is a ring beam running on top of the windows and 2/3rds up the wall where there are no windows to beef up the wall , it also provides a good anchoring point for hanging cabinets  , and the cavity on the top of the wall will be filled much in the way the sides of the windows were.

beam running whole wall length height ¬2/3 is correct. 'anchoring point' is the

typical assumption of people who (wrongly) don't trust the strength of aerated blocks. cavity filled as sides ok too.

[sirineou]

3 hours ago, zaZa9 said:

Enjoying this thread!

I like the roof - please name the tile model and Company .

My Q is - do you seal the top  cavity for the walls or not ( I wasnt clear from the read).

It may seem a small pointer but I will make it.

Throw down blue pipe ( say 1"  pipe - capped at both ends )  under  and across the driveway before its poured so that you can run the inevitable irrigation pipes / garden lighting etc  under it  that will come later. If it were me I would even do this at a couple of points at least on the side footpath. Of course the latter  would need a right angled riser ( capped for now ) just clearing the footpath .  These could even carry a/c excess drips to the grass or soil. Theres so many times I see that horrible blue pipe running may metres along paths , or wet green patches on paths where the a/c drips.. Of course , I guess there is to be some 4'' pipes under the proposed paths to carry any rainwater from the roof away? 

Also , if you havent already , make sure there is a capped  junction somewhere convenient  along the sewer line for your downstairs 'pisser' that you will surely add. Capped water water junction  to.

 

excellent idea about the pipe under driveway and walk ways  a measured distance from the building so I know where to find them without digging up the place.

There is a ring beam under the windows and a ring beam over the windows   and on the sides of the windows.The ring beams and window posts effectively seal most of the cavity the remaining two courses of block on top of the window lintel beam and ring beam will be filled up much in the same way as the sides of the window were.

and the window

 

PS: prior to pouring the ring beam the cavity was also filled otherwise the beam concrete would fall in the cavity. 

 

Thanks again for that excellent pipe under the driveway idea.

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 2017 by sirineou

[cheeryble]

Agree with Naam AAC blocks will carry anything and easier to fix to.

 

Speaking of pipe under driveway I wish wife had buried water supply lines right along the new drive route before the shingle type stuff was laid on top for both well from front and nam papa. Of course we can lay them on edge of drive.....officially relatives' land.....but nice to be independent.

 

Strength of your structure is approaching "brick shithouse"

 

 

[Destiny1990]

8 hours ago, Naam said:

and perhaps think of a bathroom without wall tiles (except shower) that does not look like a slaughterhouse. built in the last 30 years 5 homes (2 for us, 3 for friends) with aerated blocks and bathrooms that... see above.

 

 

 

 

Why no double vanity?

[cheeryble]

37 minutes ago, Destiny1990 said:

Why no double vanity?

Because Naam only has one face? (I don't see lady's multiple accoutrements and assume separate bathrooms)

[Destiny1990]

6 hours ago, cheeryble said:

Because Naam only has one face? (I don't see lady's multiple accoutrements and assume separate bathrooms)

Still Looks better with 2..

[Crossy]

9 hours ago, sirineou said:

excellent idea about the pipe under driveway and walk ways  a measured distance from the building so I know where to find them without digging up the place.

But use a minimum of 2" pipe, you can run a power cable in there too, for those outside lights you forgot about

[Naam]

9 hours ago, sirineou said:

Thanks again for that excellent pipe under the driveway idea.

make that pipeS (plural)!

[sirineou]

3 minutes ago, Naam said:

make that pipeS (plural)!

yes but it was only one idea

[Naam]

8 hours ago, Destiny1990 said:

Why no double vanity?

when i got married 38 years ago i made a vow "no women folks ever in my bathroom!" (except for cleaning). besides... i am very happy with ~7m², the Mrs lives part time in her bathroom and needs therefore three times the area.

[Destiny1990]

37 minutes ago, Naam said:

when i got married 38 years ago i made a vow "no women folks ever in my bathroom!" (except for cleaning). besides... i am very happy with ~7m², the Mrs lives part time in her bathroom and needs therefore three times the area.

Ok since its not a shared bathroom then its a very legit and acceptable explanation but i 'am a bit disappointed that u only have one face ?. Ps i do agree with less tiles in the bathrooms.

[cheeryble]

Excuse me Sirineou for a sidetrack:

 

About Naam's less tiles.......yes they're not my favourite objects.

If one had a "cut mun" polished cement finish coloured epoxy paint instead of tiles would look good around the shower and splash back/kickboard areas, kitchen too. Could be painted attractive arty shapes. An occasional scrub same as tiles but no more stained grout etc .......and the slightly expensive paint would be more than offset by no tile and tiling cost.

If epoxy paint is good enough for yachts it's good enough for showers including the floors.

 

Can buy the good colours or white in 1 litre or only the bigger cans?

 

There used to be a Jotun shop which made a feature of their multi coloured epoxy floors on the CM Superhwy.......it disappeared.

Where's best now?

 

Starting to think ....artistic juices flowing

If one painted a design......like a Rothko or picasso shapes round the shower stall for example.....using regular paints......and epoxied a clear epoxy glaze over it would the glaze stay clear or yellow off?

 

Edited December 4, 2017 by cheeryble