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Posted
There is a problem with cyano-acrylate in as much as it does weaken over time when exposed to water.
 
Used to sell it as a sales engineer for Loctite and it wasn't recommended for wet situations.
That blows that one.

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Posted

I would take a course file and make some dust from the blue pipe material....stick it in the gap with a screwdriver or so and brush some glue...stick some more dust in and glue more...

 

I would try to fix it anyway before taking it apart.

Posted
I would take a course file and make some dust from the blue pipe material....stick it in the gap with a screwdriver or so and brush some glue...stick some more dust in and glue more...
 
I would try to fix it anyway before taking it apart.
I have seen this trick with sawdust on our collapsible under back bumper panel on the car. The push in plastic males had broken off, and were reattached with sawdust/super glue, more sawdust/ superglue, came out Ok, not 100% but better than buying a new under panel and repainting everything at the back.
It may just work.
Turn the water off to the area, dry it a bit with a heat gun and try it, then cover with the secret Isaan farmer fixitall.

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Posted
can you get Loctite over here?
I have some loctite in the shed. I'm not sure if I would use loctite as my first bodgy fix; if it doesn't work not sure if I could then try the other methods.

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Posted
26 minutes ago, carlyai said:

I have some loctite in the shed. I'm not sure if I would use loctite as my first bodgy fix; if it doesn't work not sure if I could then try the other methods.

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What sort of Loctite is it carlyai??

 

The most common Loctite was/is the thread locking type in small bottles and this is not actually an adhesive, just an anaerobic polymer which won't help your situation!! However their range is much larger now and they do have silicone sealants and bonding agents which may do the job.

 

Another suggestion...........get some of the black rubber tape which stretches when you bind it round an object, then use something like a spatula to force a bonding agent/silicone/building adhesive (like "hard as nails") into the gap and then bind it with the rubber tape.

 

 

Posted

Great to see some good ideas on stopping a leak on pvc pipe, If they stop the leak more by luck.

The OP has done a cracking job with his manifold , and i am sure he would not like to see it covered in gunk.

The sure fire way is to cut out the offending fitting and redo it.

The next best thing and does not look too much  like a bodge is to weld it.

Both valves and pipe are PVC

As I very much doubt you will have access to a hot air welder ,the best thing is to remove the manifold and take it to a car body repair shop ( As they will have one used for repairing plastic bumpers) also bring some strips of pvc as filler rod.

A bead of areldite also works well but every thing must be completely dry.

A couple of tips that may help others. 

Always use plenty of glue it is easier to remove excess.

On complicated pieces of work try if possible to incorporate a drain off point at a low level just in case.

 

Without being to critical of the ops work a few pipe clips would not go amiss , especially stop start of the pump can cause a lot of strain on the fittings

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

It looks to me to be standard schedule 80 PVC, double union, 2 inch ball valves and  50 mm (1.96 inch pipe). If it was mine, I'd wait until I was ready to take the manifold off. I'd cut the blue pipe on the left hand side where I could easily buy a proper coupling. Then, I would unscrew the lower unions, remove, dry and invert the manifold. I would then pour the PCV glue into the leaking joints and let gravity be my friend instead of trying to force the glue up into the joints in place. Or, you could use the hot air welder or the areldite as above.

Edited by Pacificperson
clarity
Posted
Great to see some good ideas on stopping a leak on pvc pipe, If they stop the leak more by luck.
The OP has done a cracking job with his manifold , and i am sure he would not like to see it covered in gunk.
The sure fire way is to cut out the offending fitting and redo it.
The next best thing and does not look too much  like a bodge is to weld it.
Both valves and pipe are PVC
As I very much doubt you will have access to a hot air welder ,the best thing is to remove the manifold and take it to a car body repair shop ( As they will have one used for repairing plastic bumpers) also bring some strips of pvc as filler rod.
A bead of areldite also works well but every thing must be completely dry.
A couple of tips that may help others. 
Always use plenty of glue it is easier to remove excess.
On complicated pieces of work try if possible to incorporate a drain off point at a low level just in case.
 
Without being to critical of the ops work a few pipe clips would not go amiss , especially stop start of the pump can cause a lot of strain on the fittings
 
 
 
 
 
Yes pipe clips are in the plan....just demoted on the job schedule.

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Posted

Some sealing tapes have been mentioned already but don't know if they are available here.

 

I have had some success with pesky little leaks by using Scotch M23 rubberized tape which is available here.

 

59eecf85b60dd_ScotchM23Tape.jpg.8812e508a6171c1da78dfbcb79071525.jpg

 

Yes I know its for electrical work but seems to work just as well on water pipes. Stretch it really tight so it will meld onto its self, then hold it in place with regular electrical tape. 

 

Worked for me :smile:

Posted
15 minutes ago, Daffy D said:

Some sealing tapes have been mentioned already but don't know if they are available here.

 

I have had some success with pesky little leaks by using Scotch M23 rubberized tape which is available here.

 

59eecf85b60dd_ScotchM23Tape.jpg.8812e508a6171c1da78dfbcb79071525.jpg

 

Yes I know its for electrical work but seems to work just as well on water pipes. Stretch it really tight so it will meld onto its self, then hold it in place with regular electrical tape. 

 

Worked for me :smile:

Yep, that's the one I was referring too in my earlier post........works well on many things and handy to have around.

Posted
Some sealing tapes have been mentioned already but don't know if they are available here.
 
I have had some success with pesky little leaks by using Scotch M23 rubberized tape which is available here.
 
59eecf85b60dd_ScotchM23Tape.jpg.8812e508a6171c1da78dfbcb79071525.jpg
 
Yes I know its for electrical work but seems to work just as well on water pipes. Stretch it really tight so it will meld onto its self, then hold it in place with regular electrical tape. 
 
Worked for me [emoji2]
Yes, had the same idea. Got the tape already from long ago. Thais use inner tube rubber and seems to work. Brother in law has it all over his jet pump and no more leaks.
Grollies is right about the only way to really fix it, but will try anything before that.

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Posted
Just now, carlyai said:

Yes, had the same idea. Got the tape already from long ago. Thais use inner tube rubber and seems to work. Brother in law has it all over his jet pump and no more leaks.
Grollies is right about the only way to really fix it, but will try anything before that.

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You're too kind mate and if it can be fixed without renewing joints, great. Some really good suggestions from those above.

 

This is what I like best about TVF, loads of friendly advice and piss-taking.

 

Are the connectors PVC or ABS fittings? If ABS your supplier should have provided transition joints. Don't know why they wouldn't as it's an extra sale.

 

If PVC, they should fit the pipe. Contrary to above, PVC ThaiPipe has the same OD (subject to specified tolerances) for all grades, it's the internal diameter that changes as wall thickness increases.

Posted

Is it possible the valves are 2 inch and the pipes are 50mm? 

 

Leaking at the top or the bottom? If the bottom unscrew and remove all the bottom joints and cut the one piece of blue plastic. I'm no expert but it says you can thin PVC cement by using PVC primer. 

Stand the whole section upside down and dribble thinned cement onto the joints capillary action should pull the cement in and...

 

If you are into DIY alchemy you could try a bit of PVC "glue" and some nail polish remover (7-Eleven) it is acetone, as thinner.

Posted

Sorted out the leak with the rubberized electrical tape.

Got some pics. and the blue tape in top of the rubberized tape is just for color coordination.

I acknowledge the only real way to fix it is to take it apart and redo it.20171028_124248.jpg.176067a2b817426d4e4ad3084e756938.jpg20171028_133237.jpg.8568d94043e8fe4933744ebf997d8e62.jpg

 

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Why I thought this was maybe the best of the great suggestions, is that the Issan farmers around me use old motor bike inner tubes for leak stopping, and it works for them.

Posted
1 hour ago, carlyai said:

Sorted out the leak with the rubberized electrical tape.

Got some pics. and the blue tape in top of the rubberized tape is just for color coordination.

I acknowledge the only real way to fix it is to take it apart and redo it.20171028_124248.jpg.176067a2b817426d4e4ad3084e756938.jpg20171028_133237.jpg.8568d94043e8fe4933744ebf997d8e62.jpg

 

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Why I thought this was maybe the best of the great suggestions, is that the Issan farmers around me use old motor bike inner tubes for leak stopping, and it works for them.

Great Carl, now I've no excuse for not fixing my pump room pipework so you can't slag me off next time you come over.

 

BTW, now you are up and running I'm threatening a visit.

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