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Gov incoming connection.


Kwasaki

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New build and stopped sparky from doing what he wants to do.

When PEA install a meter on a post I want the wires connected to a switch of some type fixed to the buildings side wall in weather protected  box underneath a roof overhang, then the wires will go to the consumer unit insde.

Can I have suggestion as what's best to use and ask for.

Thanks. 

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Good idea to have a single point of isolation, just make sure that those with bad intentions can't kill all your power. It may be better if you put your isolator somewhere it can be locked.

 

Quick and easy, a Chang knife switch. Low cost and safe if out of reach in a weatherproof box.

 

Available up to 100A and 3-phase if needed, don't bother putting fuses in, your main MCB / MCCB in the consumer-unit will be your over-current protection.

 

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3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

God idea to have a single point of isolation, just make sure that those with bad intentions can't kill all your power. It may be better if you put your isolator somewhere it can be locked.

 

Quick and easy, a Chang knife switch. Low cost and safe if out of reach in a weatherproof box.

 

Available up to 100A and 3-phase if needed, don't bother putting fuses in, your main MCB / MCCB in the consumer-unit will be your over-current protection.

 

%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%97%E0%B9%80%E0%

 

Thanks Crossy I guess I will use one of these, cheap easy and locked in a metal box up high.

They seem bit old fashion, just thought there might be something else hence the post . ?

 

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18 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Thanks Crossy I guess I will use one of these, cheap easy and locked in a metal box up high.

They seem bit old fashion, just thought there might be something else hence the post . ?

2

 

Indeed, they do look like something that belongs in a Boris Karloff movie but they do the job just fine.

 

Get the 100A one so it gets an easy life and don't forget to ground your metal box (connect to the roof trusses).

 

Plenty of more modern (and more expensive) units to be found in your local electrical specialist, but for what you need the good old Chang is just the ticket.

 

 

 

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I suppose you have your reasons for putting the switch outside (the welders will like that) but I find mine very convenient adjacent to the CU.  Also, while you don't need to fuse that switch you will need something (same wire as your incomer) in place where the fuses would go.

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Just now, bankruatsteve said:

Also, while you don't need to fuse that switch you will need something (same wire as your incomer) in place where the fuses would go.

I'm pretty sure the Chang units come with links to replace the fuses.

 

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10 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Really?  The several I have bought from the local dealer came with fuses extra or nothing.  

I was going by the illustration here http://porbarn.date/X4d630S-chang-คัทเอาท์-สับทางเดียว-3p-60a-ฟรี-ฟิวส์ก้ามปู-ทองแดง-60a.html

 

You should not fuse the neutral anyway, so a link of some sort is always needed.

 

chang-3p-60a-60a-x-3-30-1497175220-62432

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51 minutes ago, Crossy said:

I was going by the illustration here http://porbarn.date/X4d630S-chang-คัทเอาท์-สับทางเดียว-3p-60a-ฟรี-ฟิวส์ก้ามปู-ทองแดง-60a.html

 

You should not fuse the neutral anyway, so a link of some sort is always needed.

 

chang-3p-60a-60a-x-3-30-1497175220-62432

 

56 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Really?  The several I have bought from the local dealer came with fuses extra or nothing.  

Yep the strips of lead which act like fuses are sold in our local electy shop in village. 

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3 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Yep the strips of lead which act like fuses are sold in our local electy shop in village. 

I was assuming (bad I know) that they were solid copper links. Are they actually supposed to fuse? Ouch!

 

Time to get out the copper strip and tin snips methinks.

 

Or just install the biggest fuses that will fit. The MCB will (almost) always get there first.

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1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

I suppose you have your reasons for putting the switch outside (the welders will like that) but I find mine very convenient adjacent to the CU.  Also, while you don't need to fuse that switch you will need something (same wire as your incomer) in place where the fuses would go.

 Basically it's for convenience of connecting the metered supply.  

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2 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

They do work.  But why a copper strip versus a wire?

A flat strip will make a better connection with the flat "fuse holder", lower resistance less heating.

 

Or you could make up some wire links with suitable crimps on the end.

 

Much depends what you have "in stock".

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2 minutes ago, Crossy said:

A flat strip will make a better connection with the flat "fuse holder", lower resistance less heating.

 

Or you could make up some wire links with suitable crimps on the end.

OK - that makes sense.  I know I used a wire (too lazy to go look at the connection to say how) and it's never been an issue.  Whatever.

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6 minutes ago, Crossy said:

I was assuming (bad I know) that they were solid copper links. Are they actually supposed to fuse? Ouch!

 

Time to get out the copper strip and tin snips methinks.

 

Or just install the biggest fuses that will fit. The MCB will (almost) always get there first.

I say lead because the ones installed in our house Chang switch certainly look and feel like lead.  

The Chang switch over at our small farmland melted one of what I call fuses when wires got crossed.  

Here's our house one.

 

34881831_10156515635965990_6129045595567947776_n.jpg.daa0b2b6a438d0bb4ff1d922db318053.jpg

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20 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

I say lead because the ones installed in our house Chang switch certainly look and feel like lead.  

The Chang switch over at our small farmland melted one of what I call fuses when wires got crossed. 

Evidently they are "fusable" but I'm not taking any bets on the current rating. I'd still be putting copper links in there for this particular application.

 

I stand corrected.

 

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If you are putting a box and a switch there you can put a changeover switch in so it’s ready to take a generator at a later date. If there is a blackout you can drop a generator there and have it up and running in less than an hour. Use a larger box then required so you can change to automatic switch over setup, a few control wires back to the CU and a 6mm earth wire back to CU earth bus. If you still got access run a conduit from the box to where you may put the generator..


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2 hours ago, Crossy said:

Evidently they are "fusable" but I'm not taking any bets on the current rating. I'd still be putting copper links in there for this particular application.

 

I stand corrected.

 

Well all I can tell you is 5 - 15 was the farmland supply, a tree fell and broke a cable to the old farmhouse and one of the 2 strip fuses as I call em melted.

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1 hour ago, Wirejerker said:

If you are putting a box and a switch there you can put a changeover switch in so it’s ready to take a generator at a later date. If there is a blackout you can drop a generator there and have it up and running in less than an hour. Use a larger box then required so you can change to automatic switch over setup, a few control wires back to the CU and a 6mm earth wire back to CU earth bus. If you still got access run a conduit from the box to where you may put the generator..
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Really thanks so much but I want to keep what will be rented GF apartments nice and simple.

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On 6/10/2018 at 4:11 PM, Crossy said:

Evidently they are "fusable" but I'm not taking any bets on the current rating. I'd still be putting copper links in there for this particular application.

 

I stand corrected.

 

I could only get where we are 60 amp Chang switch which has two 60amp fuse strips.

I said earlier will have PEA supply connected to Chang switch then a connection from Chang will be made to CU.

Just a few questions.

Will it be best to shove a 2.5 strip of copper cable in the neutral connection. 

Could only get a earth rod 1 metre long driven in 3/4 of the way can I test earth now or best wait for PEA to supply..

Put the earthing rod next to one of the 12 steel posts of the all steel frame building to connect to.

Going earth wire the steel CU box to the nearest part of the steel frame of the building.

 Does that sound OK or will the future tenants still possibly fry. ?

 

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I would use at least three pieces of 2.5mm instead of the neutral fuse, strip the insulation from it.

 

PEA doesn't provide the earth but they will expect to see (the top of) a 2.5m rod, why would it only go in 0.5m? If it's hitting the foundations try further away from the building.

 

The building steel is likely a better ground than the rod anyway, but PEA won't let you use it as the main earth.

 

Testing a rod without specialist kit is difficult, which is why the regs are prescriptive, "drive a 2.5m rod and she'll be good".

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These Chang knife fused switches used to be the main and only home electric attachment point - you then had a fuse or breaker box downstream if you wanted protection for circuits - but the Chang fuse was the required house protection prior to switch to breaker.  Expect there are still many homes with them.  And expect some have a piece of wire rather than fuse installed.  ?

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16 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

Expect there are still many homes with them.  And expect some have a piece of wire rather than fuse installed.  ?

If any have ever blown a fuse, you can bet the "fix" was to put in a wire instead of a fuse whether there was downstream protection or not.

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37 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Testing a rod without specialist kit is difficult, which is why the regs are prescriptive, "drive a 2.5m rod and she'll be good".

OK thanks,  Yeah I think I've hit concrete next to post I'll move a new rod away.

I don't think PEA in our part of the woods care much but I'll get a re-bar 2.5 m long and sharpen it.

The 1m copper rod I bought was pretty ? but are the longest stocked here, copper coating more likely. 

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37 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

These Chang knife fused switches used to be the main and only home electric attachment point - you then had a fuse or breaker box downstream if you wanted protection for circuits - but the Chang fuse was the required house protection prior to switch to breaker.  Expect there are still many homes with them.  And expect some have a piece of wire rather than fuse installed.  ?

Right for sure but still a good isolator. 

Still used a lot in our village many old houses here.

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27 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

If any have ever blown a fuse, you can bet the "fix" was to put in a wire instead of a fuse whether there was downstream protection or not.

Yeah ? did that in the old farmhouse until I got some Chang fuses 5 baht each. 

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